Disaster Response Planning

For those of you who attended our Disaster Preparedness Open House this past weekend, you may have the words “MAKE A PLAN” ringing in your ears while you are trying to fall asleep at night (I know I do… I’m thinking of maybe burying some cat food). For those of you who weren’t able to attend, or who missed out on the motivating talk by esteemed disaster responder Connie Brooks, one point I took away is that those of us in the Alachua area do not need to be prepared for the eventual hurricane, but also for the less obvious disasters: chemical spills, nuclear fallout, and “host community” effect when disasters occur nearby (especially south of) us. This means our plan must be adaptable, and we need to have more than one to be truly prepared (I think I’ll mail cat food to Europe too, going hungry scares me).

To accomplish this level of preparedness, it is important to make two plans – one for evacuation, and one for sticking it out at home.  First, figure out which of these would be your best plan A.  Start thinking of friends in your community, and away from home, that you can rely on to help house you, your animals, and your precious information.  Make a list of their addresses and phone numbers, and begin to collect information that you would want them to have copies of.  Based on your relationship with these contacts, you may want to send not only copies of tax, deed, and insurance information, birth and marriage certificates, and social security cards, but also copies of your medical records, your pet’s medical records, and photos of you with your pets.  Have your method of identification, for ALL of your pets, decided on and prepared. As Connie informed us, 99% of horses in Louisiana were returned to their owners after Hurricane Katrina (as it is required by the state to microchip), so take advantage of Springhill’s hurricane-season special on microchips! Have two current copies of your Coggins, with photos of your horses, sealed in a Ziploc bag.  Attach one bag to your horse, and leave the other in your barn or home, and you may want a third to send to that relative in Wisconsin. Use highly-visible methods of ID as well – fetlock bands, grease pens, or even body clipped phone numbers. The ideal location is a large, treeless field with white tape fencing and access to multiple backup water sources, NOT a barn (as a cat, I will be in a carrier, ready to evacuate if needed).

For your evacuation plan, make sure you keep up with trailer maintenance, and have more than one location you can haul to, in case of an impact area larger than you may expect. Be prepared for fuel, food, and water shortages (not just for you, think of your pets too!).  Have your kits, first aid and emergency, stocked and ready, as you would at home. Consider ways you could carry drums of water for your animals in your trailer, and check out our blog on trailer safety and maintenance. Have a place that can accommodate you and your animals – do not rely on the government to take care of you. Most importantly, if it is less than 72 hours to impact, DO NOT EVACUATE. Refer to your stay home plan. It is key to have these plans written down and readily accessible in an emergency!

As a special offer, Springhill Equine is offering microchipping at $10 off throughout Hurricane Season.  And for even more resources check www.ready.govor  www.avma.org/disaster/default.asp

Thanks for visiting my counter, may your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full! Safe sailing, Tony

 

Disaster Preparedness

 

In recognition of this year’s theme for our Third Annual Springhill Equine Open House! Hope to see you Saturday, October 8th from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.!

Hurricane Andrew was an eye-opening event for Florida horse owners.    Many horses died in their stalls because their barns collapsed around them, fences failed allowing horses to get out on roadways or tangled in the fencing and wandering horses got electrocuted or suffered severe dehydration looking for water sources.  This led to the Sunshine State Horse Council gathering together information on what worked and didn’t work to save lives.  In this newsletter we have pulled together the most pertinent information for our area and given you a place to start planning.

A huge lesson learned was to be prepared!  Assessing your risk level and forming a plan for your animals, your family and yourself ahead of time is key.  There are many fantastic websites such as www.sshc.org/evac/disaster.htmand www.ready.govwhich will help you start.  We face some unique challenges when evacuating our horses.  If you decide to evacuate it must be done early since your horse trailer will become difficult to drive once winds get above 35-40 mph.  It will also be necessary to leave someone to take care of the horses while evacuated and transport all feed and hay needed.  It may be an option to “locally” evacuate your horses to a more secure location.  Checking with local horses show facilities (like Canterbury), neighbors and friends may provide a safe alternative. Many of us have more horses than trailer space so decisions will have to be made about which horses get evacuated and which ones stay home.  These decisions are always easier to make before the hurricane is headed straight for us!

To the surprise of many, the safest place for your horse is in a large, well fenced pasture.  What fencing was best was also surprising.  As it turns out, mesh fences such as no-climb worked best.  Mesh fencing acted as a net to grab debris and wrap it up.  The fence also withstood very strong winds and was still effective at containing livestock.  Board fencing and barbed wire caused the most damage.  Flying debris broke boards, which became flying debris themselves, allowing livestock to escape.   Barbed wire caused numerous horrific lacerations, causing horses to be euthanized.  By giving horses a large fenced area they were able to move around to the safest location and weather the storm there.  Another important tip when setting up your property: ensure pastures are set up to keep horses away from power lines if they come down.

Horses that were found following Hurricane Andrew had to be reunited with their owners.  The importance of animal identification was further highlighted by Hurricane Katrina.  Microchips proved to be the most definitive way to prove identity but only up close.  Rescue personnel found large phone numbers written in grease pen to be the most helpful.  Your phone number on your horse allowed them to identify readily that the horse was owned, who the owner was and the address of the owner.  If area phones were working, rescue workers could then contact the owners.  Because area phones are often down, it is recommended to put a second phone number on your horse of someone who lives out of the area.  There are several ways to get all this information on your horse.  One way is to write everything in permanent fabric marker on a strip of sheet.  Braid this in to your horse’s mane and/or tail.  This can also be done with dog tags.  Writing down all your information on a piece of paper, placing it in a Ziploc bag and duct tapping it to your horse’s halter is another way to keep critical information on your horse.

A few quick things were identified that proved helpful post-disaster:

– Install a hand pump on your well

–  As you landscape your property, use native plants. Native plants are used to native weather and are less likely to be uprooted.

–  Get mobile home tie downs to secure vehicles and trailers – in the middle of the largest open area away from trees and buildings.

–  Have a disaster supply kit that includes: flashlight, battery operated radio, extra batteries,  fire  extinguishers, chlorine bleach, blankets, clothing, ready to eat food, first aid supplies, water,  prescription medicines, eyeglasses and cash. Update and check equipment at the beginning of each hurricane season.

–  Have on hand a box packed with halters, leads, duct tape, tarps and plastic, fly spray and animal medical supplies including bandages and medicines. Store in water proof container and secure

–  A two week supply of animal feed and medications should be brought in to the house and
stored in water proof containers

– Photograph or video property and animals, and take film/tape with you if you must evacuate.

Don’t forget – the most important thing you can do to be prepared for disasters:  Attend the Third Annual Springhill Equine Open House this Saturday October 8th from 10am to 1pm.  We will have information on a wide variety of disasters and Connie Brooks, an internationally recognized Disasters and Animals response specialist.

 

Poisonous plants… a few to start

Poisonous plants… a few to start

This week, as Dr. King was working on landscaping at the clinic, there was a lot of discussion about plants that can make us animals sick. Many times horses don’t eat toxic plants, until there is no choice between these plants and not eating; however, I decided it was worth talking about some of the most important plant species that can affect horses.  The best prevention for toxicity from wild-growing plants is to know how to identify them, and walk your pasture on a regular basis to identify and remove them.  Major trees/plants to be aware of include yew, red maple, cherry, oak, and ornamental flowers. These should never be planted where your horse (or other animals) can access them.

Florida or Japanese yew can kill your horse quietly in a matter of minutes – it is common to find the dead animal next to the yew. Animals will show nervousness, trembling, ataxia, and collapse will occur as the poison slows the heart to a stop.  Only 6 to 8 oz. will kill a large animal, and all species are susceptible to poisonings (including you people!). Do not plant this anywhere your animals may gain access to, or in a place where clippings may be thrown over the fence to your animals.

Yew

Red Maple

Red maple ingestion causes hemoglobin, the molecule in red blood cells that carries oxygen to the body, to change into methemoglobin, a less efficient form, for reasons unknown. This also results in rupture of the red cells, called hemolytic anemia. This effect is specific to horses. Wilted or dried leaves are the most dangerous (the toxin concentrates as leaves get ready for autumn). Fresh leaves do not appear to cause a problem. Signs of toxicity include dehydration, depression, and change in gum color (blue to brown, also yellow or “icteric”).  Increases in heart rate and respiratory rate are mild, but the urine will become dark red to brown. Death generally occurs 1-5 days following ingestion of a lethal dose.

Black, wild, and laurel cherry trees contain cyanide, which turns the horses’ gums red. This is a result of a decline in oxygen utilization.  Symptoms usually onset 30 minutes to an hour of ingestion.  The most toxic parts of the plant are the leaves and the seeds. One laurelcherry berry can kill a horse, and all animals are susceptible to cyanide toxicity.  There are many other species of plants that produce cyanide compounds, including elderberry, heavenly bamboo, hydrangeas, and various clovers.

Laurelcherry flowers

Oak leaves and acorns contain tannins, the substance that makes the Santa Fe River red.  The redder the leaf, the higher the tannins. Tannins cause kidney damage, making it difficult to form urine and regulate water and electrolytes. Clinical signs include colic, depression, frequent or no urination, constipation and/or bloody diarrhea.  “Oak bud poisoning” occurs when weather damages most available forages, and the budding oaks and acorns are most of what’s left.  In 1985, oak bud poisoning killed over 1,000 cattle in Sacramento, CA when snowfall left nothing but oak leaves to eat. Cattle and sheep seem most susceptible, while horses, goats and chickens are occasionally affected. Pigs seem to be resistant. All species of oak should be considered dangerous.

If it is an ornamental plant, has waxy leaves, seed “pods” of some kind, or berries, it probably isn’t something your horse should be eating. Most notable pods to stay away from include Crotalaria species, a yellow-flowered plant commonly referred to as “rattlebox.”  Ingestion of rattlebox can result in liver failure in the horse. Common signs with chronic toxicity are icterus, and signs of forebrain disease such as a change in attitude with depression, circling, and head pressing.

 Rattlebox

Another dangerous plant tip… don’t ever use black walnut shavings for your horses’ bedding.  It will result in laminitis with even limited exposure.

Thanks for visiting my counter, may your litterbox be clean and food bowl full!

 

Poisonous Plants….More to stay away from

Poisonous Plants….More to stay away from

I got started on poisonous plants last week and couldn’t get the doctors to stop so this week I am going to cover a few more, concentrating more on weeds than decorative plants.  A couple of items I learned from the docs this week:  most poisonous weeds like fence lines because they don’t get mowed there, low soil pH can promote weed growth and most horses will only eat poisonous plants if there is nothing else available or it is baled in to hay.

Deadly Nightshade

This is a very common plant seen on fence lines.  A very small amount of nightshade can be deadly!  Nightshade acts on a very specific portion of the nervous system leading to colic-like symptoms, dilated pupils, disorientation and loss of muscle control.  Keeping fence lines sprayed with herbicides on a regular basis or manual removal are the only ways to control this weed.  Don’t forget to check pastures occasionally, especially around trees, for additional plants.  Treatment is a drug called physostigmine or pilocarpine.

Bracken Fern

These ferns are commonly seen in wooded areas.  The most common way horses eat these ferns is if they are turned out in damp wood areas with limited roughage.  Symptoms are usually slow to present with the most common sign being weight loss.  Other symptoms include a decreased appetite, in-coordination and a characteristic wide leg, arched back stance.  The toxic portion of bracken fern causes a Vitamin B1 deficiency.  Treatment with Vitamin B1 is very effective if signs are caught early.

Lantana

Many plants we use to attract butterflies are also poisonous to our horses.  Lantana is one of these.  Just like many other poisonous plants, horses will avoid them if given enough roughage.  Here at the office we keep our butterfly attracting plants outside the fence or away from horse areas to minimize risk of ingestion.  Lantana will grow wild in fields and along driveways and fence lines.  Horses do have to eat a large volume of lantana to cause toxicity.  Symptoms of large volume ingestion begin with photosensitization (sunburn on white markings), decrease appetite followed by yellowing of the skin and colic symptoms.  If horses eat small amounts over prolonged periods symptoms may begin with a bloody diarrhea, listlessness, colic symptoms and sores on the gums and tongue.  Treatment is only supportive, such as fluids, and often unsuccessful.

Milkweed

Milkweed is another common butterfly garden plant.  Unlike lantana, milkweed usually doesn’t grow well as a wild plant.  However, it can escape from gardens to grow in protected areas such as against barn walls, pump houses or the like.  Also unlike lantana, very small quantities can cause toxic signs with 1 pound capable of causing severe symptoms in a 1000 pound horse.  Symptoms include profuse salivation, colic symptoms and seizures.  Treatment can only be started within a few hours after eating and is often unsuccessful.  Prevention is the best treatment for milkweed.  Milkweed is also very poisonous to other pets like dogs and cats so be very careful with this plant!!

Many horses are naturally curious.  Unfortunately much like your 2 year old child, they explore with their mouths!!  Frequently walking your pastures on the lookout for poisonous plants is key to control.  Look for a seminar on poisonous plants in 2012 from Springhill Equine.  It will be held at the office so even us office cats can learn all about what plants to avoid.

Thanks for visiting my counter!  May your litterbox be clean and your food bowl full.  Tony

 

Tony’s Don’ts

Tony’s Don’ts

Tony here. I heard a lot of talk around the office about veterinary don’ts this Labor Day weekend. Recently I’ve thought of topics that I would like to add to your list of Veterinary Don’ts.

While the logic may sound a bit backwards, don’t give antibiotics to your horse if you suspect he has a foot abscess.

An abscess in the foot requires coaxing. Although it makes sense to treat infection with antibiotics, it really just needs a way out.  Soaking the foot with salts, and drawing salves like ichthammol, that bring in moisture (water follows salt) softens the hoof horn, so the abscess can break through. Your farrier or the vets “digs” with the hoof knife around the sole of the foot where the horse is painful and/or the surface is irregular to give the infected tract an exit. If your horse has to be on antibiotics for more severe complications or another medical condition, that is a matter to discuss with the doctors.  Antibiotics simply slow the maturation of the abscess, delaying healing.

On that matter… be careful not to overuse antibiotics in general.  Antibiotic resistance, as seen with the emergence of MRSA, is an ever-pressing issue in medical treatment.  It is important to avoid unnecessary antibiotic use, while treating your horse appropriately for their condition.  I am no microbiologist (I prefer rodent-ologist), but I can tell you that the art of what the bug is and what antibiotic kills (or doesn’t kill) it is a complicated process. If the docs prescribe you antibiotics, keep using them until the prescription is gone (which should be after the symptoms resolve completely). If you’ve run out of your prescription, and you don’t think the infection is completely resolved, let us know. We always recommend a culture if we suspect a serious infection –this will give us a sensitivity profile of the microbe to a variety of antibiotics, telling us what will work.  We will start treating with an effective antibiotic as soon as possible. In the meantime, help us have a bacterial population with sensitivity to the things we have that kill them.  Don’t change antibiotics, or repeatedly start and stop unless necessary. And  don’t keep giving your antibiotics if your horse develops diarrhea or colicky signs, call Dr. King or Dr. Lacher instead.

We animals can be pretty good at sensing what is and isn’t good for us, but sometimes we just can’t resist eating what will make us really, really sick (like those silly dogs and their chocolate).  Horses have the added pressure of sensing their environment with trimmed sensory whiskers.

As a result, don’t forget to check your alfalfa thoroughly for blister beetles.

Blister beetles can result in a painful death for your horse. They live in hay.  Blister beetles can be toxic dead or alive. There are 2500+ species of blister beetle worldwide, but it is the three-stripe blister beetle shown below that can be toxic to a horse with ingestion of only a dozen insects. A defensive chemical called cantharadin results in blisters when the insect is crushed against the skin, hence the name. The beetles cause severe intestinal wall inflammation, and can result in kidney failure and death in about 72 hours.  Poisonings occur in horses, sheep and cattle. Double check through each flake of hay to make sure there aren’t any beetles. Hay qualities that are considered more risky for infestation with blister beetles include later cuttings, southern sources, and the presence of more blooms or weeds. Buy first cut hay to avoid infestation.

If your horse ingests a toxic level of blister beetles, he will begin to show signs of colic, straining to urinate, and frequent progressing to no urination. Call immediately if you discover your horse has ingested these buggers.

Thanks for visiting my counter, may your litterbox be clean and food bowl full!