Protein in Equine Diets

 

Tony the cat here, checking in again to bring you another post about the importance of nutrition.

This week I’d like to talk about protein in the equine diet. Protein. YUM! Fish and chicken and steak and… oh sorry, I got a bit carried away.  Many people don’t recognize how important protein is in a horse’s diet, despite many feeds being labeled specifically by the protein content. That’s right, those bags of feed that are known by “10% or 12%”, that number is the crude protein content. By now I’m sure you’re wondering why protein is important, where it is sourced from, and what all of this means to your horse, so let me tell you a few things about protein and your horse.

If you took science classes in high school, then you probably already know that muscles and skin are made from different proteins, and that proteins are made from amino acids. Now, when horses take in protein, it is not because they need the protein itself, rather they need the amino acids that are acquired when the body breaks down the proteins. Proteins are broken down in the small intestine, and the amino acids are then absorbed to be used to build proteins within the body. The amino acids account for 80% of equine structure, and are rebuilt into the needed proteins in the body. Proteins are responsible for muscle and bone growth and development, repairs, and blood transport, making them a vital component of the equine diet.

Most horses only need a protein level of 10-12% in their diet. However, higher protein levels will not lead to hyper behavior.  This is an old wives tale!  High carbohydrates will make a horse hyper not elevated protein. The horses that will need a bit more protein are babies less than 18 months old, pregnant and lactating mares, and horses in high levels of training. The most common protein sources in a horse’s diet are soybean meal, canola meal, and in green leafy roughage such as alfalfa. Most adult age horses who are not in heavy performance training will receive all of their protein needs between roughage and their daily feed rations, and it is possible to over-feed protein, so owners should be aware of the protein needs of their individual horses. If protein is over fed, it is dispelled as urea in the urine. This means the horse will urinate more, which could lead to dehydration if they are urinating too much and or sweating more than usual when this happens. Foals have the highest protein requirement at 15-16%. Horses between the age of 6 months to one year will need 14-15%. Pregnant and lactating mares generally need between 12-13% as well.

Horses that don’t receive the minimum protein needs in their diet can suffer from many negative effects including reduced appetite, body wasting, decreased growth and development in early life, poor coat quality, and decreased performance. The hardest horses to maintain are the hard working athletes and the pregnant mare with a foal by her side.  Both these guys need massive quantities of protein for the turnovers occurring in the body.  This is where a professional nutrition consult can come in very handy.  Our older horses can also require higher protein levels.  This is different than senior dog, cat, and even human diets.  This is because our diets tend to have around 30-35% protein instead of 10-16% like equine diets.  Don’t be afraid to add protein and fat to your senior horse who is having trouble maintaining condition!

Always remember to check your feed bag’s tag for the crude protein percentage and to feed high quality roughage sources to ensure your horse is getting the correct amount of protein in his or her diet. Now that we’ve talked all about protein, this cat is going to go find some tuna. May your litter box always be clean, and your food bowl full.

 

Something New and Exciting!

 

Tony the Cat here, and boy do I have something interesting for you!

If you work with SmartPak , or you have gotten any recent promotions from them, then you probably know they are offering a new and exciting program called ColiCare. In our recent talks about nutrition we’ve talked about feeds and how they affect your horse, but one thing that we haven’t mentioned yet is negative effects of diet change. The biggest one that you might see with a sudden change in diet or environment is colic, and colic can be a pretty scary and also expensive experience. That’s where SmartPak and Springhill Equine are stepping up to help.

SmartPak recently released a program which will offer up to $7500.00 in colic surgery reimbursement when you keep your horse on their SmartDigest or SmartCombo Ultra supplements. SmartPak pre-packages a month’s worth of single serving cups of the supplement for your horse. The supplement aids in digestion and helps ensure your horse’s gut stays healthy. SmartPak will offer up to $7500.00 in colic surgery reimbursement when your horse is maintained on this SmartPak year round, but they also have to meet a group of requirements that are also very important to your horse’s health and well being. I’ll talk about those in a moment. Should your horse be on ColiCare and have colic surgery that you are reimbursed for, they can still stay on the ColiCare program so long as they stay on the SmartPak. Now to talk a bit about the requirements.

ColiCare requires first that the horse be maintained on the SmartDigest or SmartCombo Ultra SmartPak. To qualify, the horse and owner must both reside within the United States. The horse would need to be between the ages of 5 months and 24 years when they are signed up, but the coverage will continue up until age 28. The horse has to be under the direct care of a veterinarian, like Dr. Lacher or Dr. Bourke. The horse also cannot have a previous history of colic surgery, or experienced any colic in the last 12 months.

SmartPak requires a certain group of annual procedures that must be done to maintain the horse’s health. These include an annual physical exam, annual dental float, annual vaccinations and annual deworming analyses performed by the veterinarian, including a fecal count. The great news is, hese are all part of our Annual Wellness Programs!

 These programs have graduating levels, starting with our Basic Wellness. The other programs include our Basic Plus and our Performance plan, as well as the Senior add on package. The Wellness Program ensures that your horse will have a Wellness exam at least twice yearly,  Encephalitis vaccines twice yearly, Rabies and West Nile vaccines annually, a yearly Coggins, fecal counts at least twice yearly with customized deworming plans for each horse, and a yearly dental exam. These meet all of the requirements for the SmartPak ColiCare program. They also give you an affordable way of ensuring your horse’s care over the year. The basic package is priced at $382.50 a year or just $38.00 a month, with prices graduating with the level of Wellness care. These programs, combined with the ColiCare program from SmartPak give you a way to ensure that your horse is getting the best year round care possible to ensure their overall health and well being, and then offer the opportunity to treat your horse should it colic and require surgery.

This is Tony saying: May your litter box be always clean and your food bowl full.

 

Feed a Horse Fat?

 

Tony the cat checking in again.

Hope you all are enjoying the cool weather. I know I’m sure not! The good thing is I can curl up inside the office and keep warm, and sometimes I can even get some hugs from the girls, and their jackets sure are snuggly. Unfortunately for your horsey pals, the indoors are not an option, and since we’ve been talking about nutrition, I thought I’d talk to you a bit about fat in the horse’s diet, and how it can be helpful in getting them ready for this cold weather. The benefits of fat in a horse’s diet have only recently been recognized, and veterinarians and researchers are finding more and more positive things about fat in the equine diet each day. I’ll talk to you about the benefits of fat, where it can be found, and when you should consider adding fat to your horse’s diet.

Until recently, fat has not been given much attention in a horse’s diet because it has long been thought that carbohydrates were the preferable choice for energy. New research and studies have started to argue against this thought process. Horses can digest and tolerate fairly high levels of fat, and fat offers a way of feeding more calories while maintaining a more stable blood sugar level. These added calories not only mean more energy, but also more mass on a horse. This can be extremely important for a horse that has a hard time holding its weight.  In the winter time this can be even more important both for the horse who doesn’t hold weight well, and a horse who is in training and needs a bit of extra fat to keep warm in the colder weather. A horse that is lower in weight is also low in body fat, which works with the hair to buffer the body against the cold. If your horse is already being fed the maximum amount of feed and hay that it can be fed, fat offers the option of adding calories without overwhelming the horse’s system.

Fats are available in a variety of forms in the equine diet. Most feeds do have a percentage of crude fat in them, but it is not in the highest forms available. With the new-found appreciation for fats, owners have been looking for ways to feed fats to their horses, which means that feed and supplement companies have also been looking for new ways to introduce fat into the horse’s diet. One of the easiest and cheapest ways to add fat into the equine diet is to add vegetable oil to the horse’s feed. Generally this has to be done gradually to ensure palatability, but it is an extremely effective way of adding fat to your horse’s diet. It’s also a great way to get their coats nice and glossy. You can also add raw or ground flax seed to the horse’s food to increase the fat intake. Flax seed can be found at most local feed stores, or even at your local health food store. Flax is also high in omega fatty acids. These are as good for your horse as they are for you! Fats are also available in supplement form in pellets and in powders, which can be purchased through any major company that carries supplements.  Some of these alternative forms are better for the picky eater.

Fat can help the horse who lives outside and has trouble with weight in the winter, the horse who doesn’t want to eat a large volume of grain, and even the Senior horse with poor dentition. Remember that fat also offers the horse a way of having extra calories and extra energy without affecting their blood sugar, which means their system will stay more stable, but they’ll have the energy they need for daily activities. Scientists are continuing to research fats benefits on the horse’s body, but so far, the results are great. If you would like to find out if fats might be what your horse needs, or if you have any concerns about your horse’s diet, feel free to ask Dr. Lacher, Dr. Bourke or Danielle to come out to help you assess your horse’s diet and needs.

Until next time, may your litter box always be clean, and your food bowl full.

 

Fun With Fiber

 

Tony the Cat Checking in,

So in my last blog, I took some time to talk about the basics of horse nutrition. This time, I’d like to talk to you about the fiber needs of horses. Personally, I don’t see why they can’t just eat tuna like us cats, but to each his own I guess. Horses are meant to use fiber as their main form of fuel, which means they need a lot of it in their daily diets. Not only does fiber provide energy, but it also keeps their digestive system functioning properly. Horses need to have at least 50% of their diet in fiber, and will get most of their daily energy needs from that. What’s interesting is that horses can’t actually digest the fiber on their own! The fibers are broken down by intestinal bacteria living in the horses’ digestive tract. The bacteria break down the fiber into Volatile Fatty Acids, which the horse can digest. So where do horses get all of this fiber? Most of your horse’s fiber needs can come from adequate forage throughout the day, but there are also some alternative fibers available in the case of low forage options. Let’s talk a little about what fiber is made of, and then I’ll talk about those fiber options.

Fiber is made of cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin. If you have ever sharpened your claws on a tree, you’ll know that the bark is pretty hard and rough. That rigid material is the lignin and it cannot be digested by horses, or their gut bacteria. It makes for great claw sharpening though! The digestible fiber materials are the cellulose and some hemicelluloses.  These are found in the leafy parts of plants, and are known as insoluble fibers. Now, because they are insoluble, the bacteria in the gut have to break them down to make the energy horses need. A portion of the fibers won’t be digested though and these still help the horse maintain gut function.

Forage is the best way for a horse to attain the fiber that it needs for energy. As I said before, a horse needs at least 50% of its daily diet to be fiber, which means they need the majority of their diet to be forage if possible. Forage options include pasture grasses, Coastal hay, Timothy, Alfalfa, Peanut hay, and other grass options. These can be fed in a number of forms. Pastures can be free choice, but hays are available in a variety of feeding options including round bales, square bales, cubes and pellets. Young, freshly cut hays are the best options for keeping the horse healthy and providing them with the energy they need. The younger hay is higher in digestible fiber than older or later cut hay. For those that don’t have easy access to pasture or hay there are some other options that can supplement the fiber in a horse’s diet.

One of the most popular and best fiber alternatives is beet pulp. Beet pulp comes in a dehydrated form and is generally soaked in water before fed to the horse, which makes it easier to chew and can help prevent choking. Other options include bran (available in oat or rice options), chaff which is made from oat and barley straw, and Grain hulls. Unfortunately the last few options don’t provide as many of the energy needs as forage or beet pulp would. Chaff and grain hulls are low in energy, and are generally better used for easy keepers who need to be kept busy munching, but who do not need to gain any weight. Some complete feeds are also now being made with higher fiber content by adding forages to the feed. Fiber alternatives are best fed in several smaller meals throughout the day to keep the horse’s gut moving slowly over extended periods of time as it would in a natural grazing environment.

Next week, I’ll be talking about fats and proteins and their place in a horse’s diet. Until then, may your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full.

Tony the Cat Checking in,

So in my last blog, I took some time to talk about the basics of horse nutrition. This time, I’d like to talk to you about the fiber needs of horses. Personally, I don’t see why they can’t just eat tuna like us cats, but to each his own I guess. Horses are meant to use fiber as their main form of fuel, which means they need a lot of it in their daily diets. Not only does fiber provide energy, but it also keeps their digestive system functioning properly. Horses need to have at least 50% of their diet in fiber, and will get most of their daily energy needs from that. What’s interesting is that horses can’t actually digest the fiber on their own! The fibers are broken down by intestinal bacteria living in the horses’ digestive tract. The bacteria break down the fiber into Volatile Fatty Acids, which the horse can digest. So where do horses get all of this fiber? Most of your horse’s fiber needs can come from adequate forage throughout the day, but there are also some alternative fibers available in the case of low forage options. Let’s talk a little about what fiber is made of, and then I’ll talk about those fiber options.

Fiber is made of cellulose, hemicelluloses and lignin. If you have ever sharpened your claws on a tree, you’ll know that the bark is pretty hard and rough. That rigid material is the lignin and it cannot be digested by horses, or their gut bacteria. It makes for great claw sharpening though! The digestible fiber materials are the cellulose and some hemicelluloses.  These are found in the leafy parts of plants, and are known as insoluble fibers. Now, because they are insoluble, the bacteria in the gut have to break them down to make the energy horses need. A portion of the fibers won’t be digested though and these still help the horse maintain gut function.

Forage is the best way for a horse to attain the fiber that it needs for energy. As I said before, a horse needs at least 50% of its daily diet to be fiber, which means they need the majority of their diet to be forage if possible. Forage options include pasture grasses, Coastal hay, Timothy, Alfalfa, Peanut hay, and other grass options. These can be fed in a number of forms. Pastures can be free choice, but hays are available in a variety of feeding options including round bales, square bales, cubes and pellets. Young, freshly cut hays are the best options for keeping the horse healthy and providing them with the energy they need. The younger hay is higher in digestible fiber than older or later cut hay. For those that don’t have easy access to pasture or hay there are some other options that can supplement the fiber in a horse’s diet.

One of the most popular and best fiber alternatives is beet pulp. Beet pulp comes in a dehydrated form and is generally soaked in water before fed to the horse, which makes it easier to chew and can help prevent choking. Other options include bran (available in oat or rice options), chaff which is made from oat and barley straw, and Grain hulls. Unfortunately the last few options don’t provide as many of the energy needs as forage or beet pulp would. Chaff and grain hulls are low in energy, and are generally better used for easy keepers who need to be kept busy munching, but who do not need to gain any weight. Some complete feeds are also now being made with higher fiber content by adding forages to the feed. Fiber alternatives are best fed in several smaller meals throughout the day to keep the horse’s gut moving slowly over extended periods of time as it would in a natural grazing environment.

Next week, I’ll be talking about fats and proteins and their place in a horse’s diet. Until then, may your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full.

 

Nutrition and Your Horse

 

Tony the Cat, checking back in again. The girls have been talking a bit about horse nutrition over the past couple of weeks, and I thought you guys might be interested in some of the facts, and what they mean when it comes to feeding your riding buddies. As you probably already know, horses are herbivores; which means their diet consists of plants.  Horses are adapted to eating up to 20 hours a day! I need more cat naps than that. Because they eat so regularly, they are also adapted to eating small amounts of food at one time. The average horse’s stomach holds about 1-3 gallons of food. That’s not very much when you think of how big they are! To make matters even more interesting, horses can’t regurgitate. If they get too full, or they eat something that is toxic to them, it cannot come back up. This can lead to a multitude of problems, including colic and ulcers. Following the stomach is the small intestine. The small intestine is 50-70 feet long, and is where most of the digestion of easily digested nutrients occurs.  The Cecum follows the small intestine, and can hold 7-8 gallons. This is where fiber fermentation begins.  Last but not least is the large colon, which has four parts and which is where most impactions occur. This is where the final stages of fiber digestion occur before the leftovers are sent to the rectum to be disposed of. Horses are technically known as hind gut fermenters; which means they have a simple stomach and most digestion occurs in their intestine, especially the large intestine. They also have no gall bladder, so they generally can’t have a diet high in fats. Fats are digested through the lymph system in horses, and distributed through that system as well.   Now that we’ve covered the basics of the anatomy of a horse’s digestive system, let me go a little more in depth on their requirements.

Mature horses generally require 3.4 megacalories (that’s 34,000 calories) of food per 100kg (1kg = 2.2lb) of body weight. That requirement fluctuates depending on the amount of activity the horse is involved in each day.  An 1100 lb horse will normally require at least 16.4Mcal per day.  The horse’s daily requirements can be as much as doubled depending on how much riding is done. Pleasure horses generally will only have a slightly raised requirement of calories per day. A horse in heavy competition training would need up to double. Around 80% of the calories consumed should be from grazing and roughage. Horses’ diets rely heavily on carbohydrates and fibers found in vegetation. If your horse has limited turn out, then you should ensure he or she is getting plenty of quality hay. Concentrates should be the minority in a horse’s diet. Some fiber alternatives can also be fed when grazing roughage is low. These include beet pulp, and various cubes. Horses get some proteins and fats from their roughage as well, which is again why a plentitude of forages should be supplied.  Forage options besides good pasture include coastal hay, Timothy blends, oat blends, Alfalfa, peanut hay, and various other grasses. Alfalfa is available on its own, but is also one of the more common blends with Timothy grasses and oats. Hays can be obtained through feed stores and directly from growers, and you should search for good quality sources. Hay should be low in dust, relatively dry, with medium long cuts. Alfalfa and blends that include it will be greener and are richer. They should be introduced gradually to ensure the horse’s system can adapt properly. Coastal hays and peanut hay are aged a bit more, and can include some green but will generally take a more yellow huge with age. They tend to be drier and not quite as nutrient dense.

All of this talk of food can sure get a cat’s appetite up, I hear a food bowl calling my name. In next week’s blog, I’ll talk more about fats, proteins, carbohydrates, and their effects on the horse’s body. At the end of this blog series, I’ll also provide a few extra reading sources in case you’d like to study nutrition further. In the meantime, may your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full.

 

Ready for Evacuation

Ready for Evacuation

 

Tony the cat here. One of the things we talked about recently was being prepared for a hurricane. This week I wanted to talk more about evacuation plans.  So last week I was lounging about while Isaac was passing us by, and I overheard the girls talking about how badly South Florida flooded from the rain Isaac dropped. I even got to see some pictures which I’ll share with you. While we saw just enough rain for me to hate being outside, those poor folks down there were riding around in boats, swamp buggies, and large trucks that were just barely able to drive through the water. Some places registered two feet of flood water. I feel bad for the cats down there that got soaked. In some places, humans had to leave their homes and their animals. Rescue personnel had to go back and get the animals, or other helpers. The girls made some strong arguments about the importance of having Coggins and other forms of identification ready in case you humans have to evacuate quickly.  You see, when an area floods, has electrical damage, has devastating fires, or another disaster, many people are forced to evacuate. Sometimes they are forced to evacuate quickly, and aren’t prepared to take their animals along. In these cases, animals may be evacuated by emergency personnel or rescue organizations who work to re-unite the animals with their owners once the disaster has been contained or remedied. When this happens, animals need to have all proper documentation and some kind of identification for them to be properly reunited with their owners. There are a few very important things that horse owners can do to ensure that their equine pals are ready for any type of emergency or natural disaster in which they must be evacuated.

First and foremost, most states require that a horse have an updated Coggins test to be transported. Now, you may think, “But what good is a Coggins going to do if I’m not there with it in hand to transport my horse?”. Though you may not be present, I’ll talk about ways to make sure your horse can be identified. Coggins reports are stored on an online database, so if they are up to date, they can be searched on that database to ensure the horse is ready for transport. The Coggins documents now have color photographs of each horse from the left, right and front to allow easy identification. Any time you are forced to leave your property, make sure that your horse’s halters are labeled with their name, and your name.  The Coggins reports can be searched by the owner name and horse name, so if the horse’s halter is labeled with their name and your name, they can easily be identified, and their Coggins can be referenced. Keep your horses’ Coggins in a three ring binder in plastic sleeves to ensure they are not damaged. If you are able to haul the horses with you when you evacuate, then you’ll already have their Coggins paperwork on hand and at the ready. If emergency personnel have to go in to retrieve your horses, you can provide them with a copy of the Coggins reports. Many owners decide not to pull Coggins on horses that they don’t haul regularly, but this kind of situation should show owners why Coggins tests are a necessity for their horses.  Even those older horses, and yes the pesky babies who like to chase us cats, are important to their human owners, and in the case of an emergency they should be just as up to date on their documentation as your other horse partners.

Given the low cost, the ease of testing and administration, and overall importance of Coggins and animal identification, it’s easy to see why any human should make sure these things are done for their animals. Natural disasters and emergencies happen every day. Here in Florida, we’re often visited by those pesky tropical storms and hurricanes, plus we often face brush fires in the dry seasons. If you ever have to evacuate, wouldn’t you feel better knowing your horses, and even your other animals, were all set for a speedy getaway? I’m sure your horses would feel reassured too, I know I would. So in closing, I hope that you’ll take a second to look and make sure your horses (and your other animal friends) are fully prepared should you ever have to evacuate. Make sure all documents are up to date, make sure you have labeled halters, collars, or name tags, and look into the options available to help ensure your animals are located. Dr. Lacher is always ready to help you out, should you need or want to update your horses or have them micro-chipped. She can go visit you, or you can bring your horses here to the office, where I’ll happily greet you and help out where I can. May your litter box always be clean, and your food bowl full.

 

Are you prepared?

 

I try never to pass up the opportunity of a storm headed our way to talk about being prepared!  So with Isaac headed our way here goes.

Have a plan.  Look at your farm and decide if you will stay or go.  Here in Gainesville, staying is often a reasonable plan but that means planning for no electricity, lots of water where we don’t want it (as a cat I hate this part) but no water to drink, and plenty of other fun inconveniences. If leaving is the better option, leave early.  It is very important to get your animals out ahead of a major evacuation so you don’t get stuck in hot weather with animals in a trailer. If you are staying, think about everything you do in a day and determine what you need to do tasks such as feeding and watering, both humans and animals.  Stockpile what you need to do these tasks for at least 14 days.

Take pictures and/or video of your property, home, vehicles, trailers, and anything else you can think of to document what you have and what it looks like.  Gather important documents.  Place both of these in a waterproof, secure location.  Even better upload them to an internet application such as Dropbox and they will be available no matter what happens.   An often overlooked step here is having an out of area contact.  Pick someone your entire family knows who lives outside the area likely to be affected by the storm.  Call your out of town contact and let them in on the plan and how things are progressing.  More on how important this person is in the next step.

Identify your animals!  There are several ways to do this and the more of them you use the better!  All animals should have a halter, collar, or some way to catch them.  These should be breakaway in case they get tangled in debris.  They should have your home phone number, cell phone number, and your out-of-area contact on them.  The easiest way to do this is write everything on a piece of cloth with a waterproof marker.  Place in a Ziploc bag and duct tape on.  Pieces of cloth with your information can also be braided in to manes and tails. Livestock grease markers work great to write phone numbers on the sides of horses and cattle.  And the single best way to identify your animals is a microchip!  Microchips helped over 90% of horses get reunited with their owners after Hurricane Katrina.

Storms are a constant threat living in Florida.  Spending some time on websites such as http://www.fldart.org/preparedness.htm can help you formulate the perfect plan for your farm and family.  We have disaster preparedness workbooks available at the office.   And as always you can contact the humans at Springhill Equine for help formulating a plan for your horses.   Most important though, may your food bowl be full and your litter box clean!  So plan ahead and head to the grocery store now to buy cat food and kitty litter!

 

Do pigeons cause Pigeon Fever?

 

I was hanging out on the counter the other day when a client came in asking about Pigeon Fever.  My ears perked up at the thought of chasing pigeons but it turns out this conversation had nothing to do with birds.  Pigeon Fever is a syndrome cause by a very specific bacterium, Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis, which leads to abscesses.  This bacteria hasn’t been a big problem for Floridians since it prefers dry weather but this year has been different!

Let’s start with a little bit of learnin’.  Pigeon Fever or Dryland Distemper or Lymphangitis is a relatively common problem in the hot, dry regions of our desert southwest.  For reasons the experts don’t really understand the organism has been marching its way across the country to wetter regions.   C. pseudotuberculosis is perfectly content to live in soil until drought conditions occur.  At that time it seems to begin looking beyond the ground for somewhere to live and reproduce.   The bacteria is readily spread by common insects like the stable fly and infects horses through any small wound.

The most common appearance of Pigeon Fever is a large swelling of the chest, so the horse looks like a pigeon, or underside of the belly.  Upon further examination the swellings turn out to be large abscesses.  Another, less frequent problem, is what’s known as ulcerative lymphangitis.  This is a big swollen, oozing infection of the leg.  Even rarer is an invasion of the internal organs such as the kidney and liver by the organism.

Once Dr. Lacher has decided that a C. pseudotuberculosis abscess is likely to be the problem she will start treatment by draining the abscess and flushing the area.  The tricky part is any pus that hits the ground can contaminate the entire area so all pus must be contained and disposed of properly.  Dr. Lacher said she tries to open them on concrete so bleach can be applied to the area.  Opened and regularly flushed abscesses generally heal rapidly with minimal scarring.  However, ulcerative lymphangitis can be very difficult to treat.  These horses are placed on aggressive antibiotic therapy with both injectable antibiotics and highly concentrated therapy into veins in the affected leg.  The leg is kept bandaged to help reduce swelling, absorb drainage, and keep antimicrobial ointments in place.  Unfortunately chronic scarring of the leg and repeated infections are often left over effects of this form of the disease.   Infection of the internal organs is treated with rest and aggressive antibiotics with a full recovery the usual outcome.

Prevention is aimed at controlling insects in the stable area and making sure any wounds are regularly addressed.  The very bottom of the abdomen is a common area for us to see insect bites leading to open skin and excellent entrance sites from many diseases.  SWAT fly ointment is the best way Dr. Lacher and her team has found to prevent this problem.  Several groups are working on a vaccine but so far they have had no luck.  The good thing in Florida is that Pigeon Fever time of year and scratches or dew poisoning time of year are not the same.

The biggest lesson I learned is, once again, if in doubt about what is going on with your horse:  Call Springhill Equine!  And in the meantime May your litter box be clean and your food bowl full!!

 

Vacation Time!!!!

 

Dr. Lacher spent the week before her vacation running around the clinic trying to make sure Dr. King and our fabulous team were up to speed on all her cases before she headed to Paris for a week.  She assured me she would bring me back something tasty from France so I allowed her to go.  Along with making sure we have good communication in the office, Dr. Lacher all her animals at home were taken care of.   I thought I would let you in on her preparations for leaving since I thought it was great information for all humans.

First thing Dr. Lacher did was to make sure she had plenty of feed and hay for the horses, and was stocked up on cat and dog food.  She went through her feed room to be sure she had her feeding board up to date.  Her feeding board was, of course, out of date with one horse listed in the wrong stall and a few on their winter feeding amounts.  Making sure these details are clear for her farm sitter will minimize any confusion while she is gone.  While in the feed room, Dr. Lacher made sure there was enough Myristol, Solitude, and One AC for the non-sweaters.  She added a bucket of homemade electrolytes just in case the horses sweat overly much one day or someone wasn’t drinking enough.  Recipe:  two containers of Morton Salt Balancer, or two regular salt and two lite salt containers, and 10 ground up Tums.

In the barn, Dr. Lacher made sure all the stalls were labeled with the horse’s name and that halters and lead ropes were in obvious locations.  Dr. Lacher tried to make sure that all those little things we put up with, such as the snap that isn’t quite right, were fixed up.  On her last stall cleaning she made sure she added a little extra bedding and made sure they were super clean.  She gave all the water buckets an extra scrub and generally did a bit of tidying up.  While her farm sitter is excellent, it makes it flow a little easier to have things a bit “over” ready.  Just like most farm sitters, Dr. Lacher’s has places to be after taking care of her farm and she tries to get her in and out as quickly and efficiently as possible.   Finally Dr. Lacher made sure that an extra copy of the feeding and turnout instructions were posted in the barn aisle and e-mailed a copy to her farm sitter.

Now that all the concrete work was done Dr. Lacher sat down to work on the hard part:  paperwork.  Dr. Lacher filled out an owner/agent form for each of her horses, cats, and dogs.  This form allows her to designate her wishes for each of the animals.  There is a location for what kind of procedures are allowed and not allowed, and a monetary amount she is willing to spend on each animal.  It also legally allows her farm sitter to authorize veterinary care up to the designated amount.   The form has a paragraph designating what to do in case euthanasia should be necessary.  This form makes sure everyone knows what should be done with each animal in case anything is necessary!  These forms, along with all contact information are placed in a folder readily visible for the farm sitter.

It’s hard going on vacation and leaving us furry kids behind but with the proper preparation you can be sure we will be well taken care of!

May your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full!

 

Horse Breeding for Dummies Part 6 – Stallion Basics

 

What a week! I am exhausted just from watching the clinic staff in recent days – Springhill Equine has been in full swing for breeding season these past two weeks! In honor of that, I felt it was time we continued our discussion on horse breeding. This week, I would like to segue into the male side – basics of management of stallions and geldings. A stallion is a male horse that has not been castrated and is sexually mature (vs. a colt, which is not mature). A gelding is a stallion or colt that has been castrated. Sexual maturity is reached at about 4 years of age, but many colts will exhibit stallion-like behavior and sexual activity as early as 8 months of age. They should be separated from females when this is observed.

Castration, or removal of the testes and associated structures, is commonly performed on horses, as stallions can be tricky and difficult to handle and manage. Stallions are often housed in facilities separate from mares so no accidental breedings occur. They must be handled with a firm but cautious hand. With all of this said, there are many stallions out there who are considered docile and easily managed.  Geldings that are castrated before significant stallion behaviors develop, on the other hand, make wonderful companion and riding animals, and are generally more docile. If a stallion is castrated later in life (eg, more than 2 years of age), stallion-like and/or aggressive behaviors may persist post-castration. It is not recommended for the beginner horse-person to own a stallion – usually males are only kept stallions (or ‘intact’) in situations where they will be specifically used for breeding purposes. Some are left intact until physical characteristics develop (eg, larger size, crested neck), and are then castrated. Thoroughbred racehorses are often kept as stallions so they have the potential for a breeding career if their racing career proves successful.

Let’s talk more about the specifics of the male horse reproductive tract. As with any mammal, both stallions and geldings have a penis as their external genitalia. Unlike humans, however, the male horse’s penis at rest is telescoped within itself, and is housed inside the body during the majority of the time. He will externalize the penis (as one would extend a telescope) during times of sexual arousal, for urination, or during sedation/relaxation. There can be medical issues that result in the horse becoming unable to retract the penis, and can become a major problem if left externally for an extended period of time (just like they say on the Viagra commercials – 4 hours is too long!). Tumors and other skin conditions of the penis are relatively common in horses, so regular cleaning of the dirt and skin oils (termed ‘smegma’) from the penis and sheath is important. The vets here at Springhill Equine clean any male horse who is sedated for a dental float, and check them thoroughly for any signs of cancer or other abnormalities.

Stallions also have a pair of testes housed externally in the scrotum. Veterinarians are aware of several conditions that can arise with the scrotum and testes – including infections, tumors, testicular torsions (a medical emergency that presents often as severe and sudden colic), and scrotal hernias. The testes is the assembly factory for sperm, while the next-in-line epididymis is responsible for sperm maturation – eg. packaging and storage. On ejaculation, the sperm leave the tail end of the epididymis, where they are waiting in storage, and travel up toward the pelvis along the ductus deferens (analogous to the vas deferens in humans) until they dump into the urethra (also the exit for the urinary tract) at about the level of the anus. Fluid is added from three different glands (bulbourethral glands, seminal vesicles, and prostate) to help the sperm along their journey. They travel along the urethra through several feet of penile tissue (whose base is just below the anus internally) before exiting with the goal of seeking an egg. In our next blog, we will discuss the various routes a sperm can take to reach that egg – with the stallion actually breeding a mare, or via artificial insemination (A.I.) with fresh, cooled, or frozen semen.

Thanks for stopping by to read my blog this week, maybe next time I could see you in person at the clinic (for some pets)! Keep emailing if you have any specific questions you would like me to cover in my blog (or in the newsletter, for that matter!)! May your litter box be clean, and your food bowl full!