Poisonous plants… a few to start

Poisonous plants… a few to start

This week, as Dr. King was working on landscaping at the clinic, there was a lot of discussion about plants that can make us animals sick. Many times horses don’t eat toxic plants, until there is no choice between these plants and not eating; however, I decided it was worth talking about some of the most important plant species that can affect horses.  The best prevention for toxicity from wild-growing plants is to know how to identify them, and walk your pasture on a regular basis to identify and remove them.  Major trees/plants to be aware of include yew, red maple, cherry, oak, and ornamental flowers. These should never be planted where your horse (or other animals) can access them.

Florida or Japanese yew can kill your horse quietly in a matter of minutes – it is common to find the dead animal next to the yew. Animals will show nervousness, trembling, ataxia, and collapse will occur as the poison slows the heart to a stop.  Only 6 to 8 oz. will kill a large animal, and all species are susceptible to poisonings (including you people!). Do not plant this anywhere your animals may gain access to, or in a place where clippings may be thrown over the fence to your animals.

Yew

Red Maple

Red maple ingestion causes hemoglobin, the molecule in red blood cells that carries oxygen to the body, to change into methemoglobin, a less efficient form, for reasons unknown. This also results in rupture of the red cells, called hemolytic anemia. This effect is specific to horses. Wilted or dried leaves are the most dangerous (the toxin concentrates as leaves get ready for autumn). Fresh leaves do not appear to cause a problem. Signs of toxicity include dehydration, depression, and change in gum color (blue to brown, also yellow or “icteric”).  Increases in heart rate and respiratory rate are mild, but the urine will become dark red to brown. Death generally occurs 1-5 days following ingestion of a lethal dose.

Black, wild, and laurel cherry trees contain cyanide, which turns the horses’ gums red. This is a result of a decline in oxygen utilization.  Symptoms usually onset 30 minutes to an hour of ingestion.  The most toxic parts of the plant are the leaves and the seeds. One laurelcherry berry can kill a horse, and all animals are susceptible to cyanide toxicity.  There are many other species of plants that produce cyanide compounds, including elderberry, heavenly bamboo, hydrangeas, and various clovers.

Laurelcherry flowers

Oak leaves and acorns contain tannins, the substance that makes the Santa Fe River red.  The redder the leaf, the higher the tannins. Tannins cause kidney damage, making it difficult to form urine and regulate water and electrolytes. Clinical signs include colic, depression, frequent or no urination, constipation and/or bloody diarrhea.  “Oak bud poisoning” occurs when weather damages most available forages, and the budding oaks and acorns are most of what’s left.  In 1985, oak bud poisoning killed over 1,000 cattle in Sacramento, CA when snowfall left nothing but oak leaves to eat. Cattle and sheep seem most susceptible, while horses, goats and chickens are occasionally affected. Pigs seem to be resistant. All species of oak should be considered dangerous.

If it is an ornamental plant, has waxy leaves, seed “pods” of some kind, or berries, it probably isn’t something your horse should be eating. Most notable pods to stay away from include Crotalaria species, a yellow-flowered plant commonly referred to as “rattlebox.”  Ingestion of rattlebox can result in liver failure in the horse. Common signs with chronic toxicity are icterus, and signs of forebrain disease such as a change in attitude with depression, circling, and head pressing.

 Rattlebox

Another dangerous plant tip… don’t ever use black walnut shavings for your horses’ bedding.  It will result in laminitis with even limited exposure.

Thanks for visiting my counter, may your litterbox be clean and food bowl full!

 

Poisonous Plants….More to stay away from

Poisonous Plants….More to stay away from

I got started on poisonous plants last week and couldn’t get the doctors to stop so this week I am going to cover a few more, concentrating more on weeds than decorative plants.  A couple of items I learned from the docs this week:  most poisonous weeds like fence lines because they don’t get mowed there, low soil pH can promote weed growth and most horses will only eat poisonous plants if there is nothing else available or it is baled in to hay.

Deadly Nightshade

This is a very common plant seen on fence lines.  A very small amount of nightshade can be deadly!  Nightshade acts on a very specific portion of the nervous system leading to colic-like symptoms, dilated pupils, disorientation and loss of muscle control.  Keeping fence lines sprayed with herbicides on a regular basis or manual removal are the only ways to control this weed.  Don’t forget to check pastures occasionally, especially around trees, for additional plants.  Treatment is a drug called physostigmine or pilocarpine.

Bracken Fern

These ferns are commonly seen in wooded areas.  The most common way horses eat these ferns is if they are turned out in damp wood areas with limited roughage.  Symptoms are usually slow to present with the most common sign being weight loss.  Other symptoms include a decreased appetite, in-coordination and a characteristic wide leg, arched back stance.  The toxic portion of bracken fern causes a Vitamin B1 deficiency.  Treatment with Vitamin B1 is very effective if signs are caught early.

Lantana

Many plants we use to attract butterflies are also poisonous to our horses.  Lantana is one of these.  Just like many other poisonous plants, horses will avoid them if given enough roughage.  Here at the office we keep our butterfly attracting plants outside the fence or away from horse areas to minimize risk of ingestion.  Lantana will grow wild in fields and along driveways and fence lines.  Horses do have to eat a large volume of lantana to cause toxicity.  Symptoms of large volume ingestion begin with photosensitization (sunburn on white markings), decrease appetite followed by yellowing of the skin and colic symptoms.  If horses eat small amounts over prolonged periods symptoms may begin with a bloody diarrhea, listlessness, colic symptoms and sores on the gums and tongue.  Treatment is only supportive, such as fluids, and often unsuccessful.

Milkweed

Milkweed is another common butterfly garden plant.  Unlike lantana, milkweed usually doesn’t grow well as a wild plant.  However, it can escape from gardens to grow in protected areas such as against barn walls, pump houses or the like.  Also unlike lantana, very small quantities can cause toxic signs with 1 pound capable of causing severe symptoms in a 1000 pound horse.  Symptoms include profuse salivation, colic symptoms and seizures.  Treatment can only be started within a few hours after eating and is often unsuccessful.  Prevention is the best treatment for milkweed.  Milkweed is also very poisonous to other pets like dogs and cats so be very careful with this plant!!

Many horses are naturally curious.  Unfortunately much like your 2 year old child, they explore with their mouths!!  Frequently walking your pastures on the lookout for poisonous plants is key to control.  Look for a seminar on poisonous plants in 2012 from Springhill Equine.  It will be held at the office so even us office cats can learn all about what plants to avoid.

Thanks for visiting my counter!  May your litterbox be clean and your food bowl full.  Tony

 

Tony’s Don’ts

Tony’s Don’ts

Tony here. I heard a lot of talk around the office about veterinary don’ts this Labor Day weekend. Recently I’ve thought of topics that I would like to add to your list of Veterinary Don’ts.

While the logic may sound a bit backwards, don’t give antibiotics to your horse if you suspect he has a foot abscess.

An abscess in the foot requires coaxing. Although it makes sense to treat infection with antibiotics, it really just needs a way out.  Soaking the foot with salts, and drawing salves like ichthammol, that bring in moisture (water follows salt) softens the hoof horn, so the abscess can break through. Your farrier or the vets “digs” with the hoof knife around the sole of the foot where the horse is painful and/or the surface is irregular to give the infected tract an exit. If your horse has to be on antibiotics for more severe complications or another medical condition, that is a matter to discuss with the doctors.  Antibiotics simply slow the maturation of the abscess, delaying healing.

On that matter… be careful not to overuse antibiotics in general.  Antibiotic resistance, as seen with the emergence of MRSA, is an ever-pressing issue in medical treatment.  It is important to avoid unnecessary antibiotic use, while treating your horse appropriately for their condition.  I am no microbiologist (I prefer rodent-ologist), but I can tell you that the art of what the bug is and what antibiotic kills (or doesn’t kill) it is a complicated process. If the docs prescribe you antibiotics, keep using them until the prescription is gone (which should be after the symptoms resolve completely). If you’ve run out of your prescription, and you don’t think the infection is completely resolved, let us know. We always recommend a culture if we suspect a serious infection –this will give us a sensitivity profile of the microbe to a variety of antibiotics, telling us what will work.  We will start treating with an effective antibiotic as soon as possible. In the meantime, help us have a bacterial population with sensitivity to the things we have that kill them.  Don’t change antibiotics, or repeatedly start and stop unless necessary. And  don’t keep giving your antibiotics if your horse develops diarrhea or colicky signs, call Dr. King or Dr. Lacher instead.

We animals can be pretty good at sensing what is and isn’t good for us, but sometimes we just can’t resist eating what will make us really, really sick (like those silly dogs and their chocolate).  Horses have the added pressure of sensing their environment with trimmed sensory whiskers.

As a result, don’t forget to check your alfalfa thoroughly for blister beetles.

Blister beetles can result in a painful death for your horse. They live in hay.  Blister beetles can be toxic dead or alive. There are 2500+ species of blister beetle worldwide, but it is the three-stripe blister beetle shown below that can be toxic to a horse with ingestion of only a dozen insects. A defensive chemical called cantharadin results in blisters when the insect is crushed against the skin, hence the name. The beetles cause severe intestinal wall inflammation, and can result in kidney failure and death in about 72 hours.  Poisonings occur in horses, sheep and cattle. Double check through each flake of hay to make sure there aren’t any beetles. Hay qualities that are considered more risky for infestation with blister beetles include later cuttings, southern sources, and the presence of more blooms or weeds. Buy first cut hay to avoid infestation.

If your horse ingests a toxic level of blister beetles, he will begin to show signs of colic, straining to urinate, and frequent progressing to no urination. Call immediately if you discover your horse has ingested these buggers.

Thanks for visiting my counter, may your litterbox be clean and food bowl full!

 

Feeding the Senior Horse

This week I saw quite a few older horses come in to the clinic and overheard a lot of information about feeding them so I thought I would compile it all in my blog.  I also thought this would go well with the informative Cushing’s Disease newsletter just posted by Dr. King.

To start with I learned that most older horses fall in to two categories when it comes to feeding: easy keepers (like me) and hard keepers.  Both horses require careful feeding to make sure they stay healthy.

Easy keepers are the horse that looks at a blade of grass and gains 50 pounds.  The biggest problem seen in these horses is laminitis due to insulin resistance.  This is not a problem exclusive to older horses but does tend to get worse with age.  I think most of us can relate to the ease of weight gain as we get older.  Calorie control is the name of the game here.  Most commercial diets will have recommended weights to be fed on a daily basis.  If controlling calories means going below the lowest recommended weight, your horse is not getting the vitamins and minerals he needs.  Therefore for the easiest keepers my doctors recommend feeding a ration balancer.  Ration balancers contain the protein, vitamin and minerals your horse needs with no added calories.  These are fed in small weights of ½ to 1 pound per day.

The next big source of calories is pasture, especially in the summer.  Dr. Lacher told a client that the Bahia grass seed heads are full of protein and starch!  This means quality time with the lawn mower to keep those seed heads at bay.  If that isn’t enough for your horse a grazing muzzle can be used to further decrease grass consumption.  The most interesting thing I heard the doctors saying this week involved the light/dark metabolism of grass.  They said grass (and all plants) changes metabolism around sunrise and sunset which causes a buildup of starches.  By keeping your horse off the pasture during these times you can decrease another source of starches.

Now for the hard keepers.  The first thing Dr. King and Dr. Lacher do for hard keeper is a good dental exam.  This involves sedation, a full mouth speculum and a bright light.  On one horse this week they found an infected tooth that was sending bacteria into the horse’s bloodstream and making it painful to chew.  They removed the tooth and will now watch the horse over the next month to see if she gains back her lost weight.  The next thing recommended was testing for Cushings disease.  If your horse comes back positive for Cushings disease medication can help with weight loss.  No matter what the cause of weight loss, Senior diets are recommended to put weight back on.  Senior diets are pre-cooked to make it easier for your horse to digest.  In fact these diets don’t need to be chewed at all!  As long as your horse is able to get the pelleted feed swallowed it will be digested.  To help your older horse swallow Senior, water can be added to make it a mash.

If more calories are needed fat is a calorie dense, safe addition.  Horses are very fat tolerant.  One pound of fat for every 1000 pounds of body weight can be added daily.  Fat comes in two main forms:  vegetable oils and prilled (powdered) fats.  This should be gradually added over 7 to 10 days to minimize diarrhea.  The nice thing about fat is it doesn’t add much in the way of volume.  This means your horse who is low man on the totem pole can eat the same volume of grain but get more calories from it.

Another way to add calories is with high quality roughage.  Alfalfa and peanut hay can be fed free choice very safely and will add loads of calories.  For our senior patients with poor teeth this can be done with soaked alfalfa pellets or cubes.

Sometimes weight loss is secondary to behavior changes.  Older horses can move down the chain of command due to lameness or other chronic pain problems.  If you are feeding your horse in a group situation you may need to change your setup to allow the old guy to eat alone.

I hope my summary of all I heard from the front counter helps you feed your older horse.  If you have any questions, please contact the office and I will make sure Dr. King or Dr. Lacher get right back with you!

May your litterbox be clean and your food bowl full…Tony, the Official Springhill Equine Office Cat

 

Equine Cushing’s Disease

Equine Cushing’s disease, also referred to as Equine Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction (PPID) or hyperadrenocorticism, is one of the most common endocrine diseases of horses.  It is most commonly seen in horses older than 15 years of age. There are many recognized syndromes of hyperadrenocorticism in people, dogs, and other species that are commonly referred to as “Cushing’s disease,” but the problem can vary as to the organ source and underlying endocrine dysfunction that results in indistinguishable symptoms. In the horse, it is generally a more consistent underlying process, but the specific cause (or pathophysiology) remains largely unknown.

The pituitary gland is a normal part of the typical mammalian brain, sitting at the base of the brain just above the two optic nerves (one from each eye). There are three lobes in the pituitary gland – one of which is the “pars intermedia.” For reasons unknown, the cells in this region begin to increase in size, increase in number, and/or change into a benign tumor – called an adenoma. This underlying change seems to be the primary contributor to Cushing’s disease in the horse, which is different from, say, a dog, who may develop Cushing’s due to a problem in the pituitary gland or the adrenal gland.  The pituitary gland, in both species, regulates the adrenal glands’ production of cortisol (commonly known as adrenaline). It is primarily the effects of cortisol that result in the symptoms seen with PPID.

Symptoms of PPID can vary based on the stage of the disease and specific proteins that are being overproduced by the horse’s pituitary gland. The average age is 20 years, but horses 7 years or older can develop the disease. Ponies and Morgans have a high incidence of the disease. The most commonly recognized sign of PPID in horses is a long, curly hair coat with abnormal shedding patterns.  Another common sign is excessive drinking (considered >25-30L (8-10 gallons) in the normal horse) and/or urination.  Bulging eyes, abnormally located fat deposits, inappropriate lactation, muscle atrophy, and/or weight loss may also be seen. Related problems that can occur in horses with PPID include laminitis, fertility problems, chronic infections or recurrent hoof abscesses, and blindness.  Blindness in horses may occur when growth of the pituitary gland results in compression of the optic nerves.

There is more than one way to diagnose Cushing’s disease in your horse. The “gold standard” test is called the Dexamethasone Suppression Test – it is considered the most reliable.   The horse is given an injection of dexamethasone, a type of steroid.  Then a blood sample is taken approximately 18-20 hours later.  If the horse is not able to reduce his own level of cortisol in response to the steroid we injected (“doesn’t suppress”), he is considered positive for Equine PPID.  This test can be performed with the horse in-hospital overnight, or with two farm call visits. The other test for Equine Cushing’s is a baseline ACTH measurement (a hormone that is produced by the normal and abnormal pituitary). If, at rest, the ACTH is above a certain level, it can be presumed that the excess production is a result of PPID.  These are the two most reliable and commonly performed diagnostic tests for Equine PPID.

While treatment of PPID is not curative, it can significantly improve your horse’s quality of life, ability to fight off infections, and potentially fertility in older broodmares. The most effective treatment for Equine PPID is pergolide powder, given by mouth as a top-dress to feed or via syringe once daily. Sometimes the initial dose of pergolide must be adjusted to fit your horse’s disease severity and response – repeating the above diagnostic tests once your horse is started on pergolide treatment can help determine if the given dose is appropriate. Pergolide treatment costs about $80 per month, and is given for the remainder of the horse’s lifetime. While expensive, it may reduce your horse’s future discomfort, and your future medical expenses related to management of laminitis, chronic infections, or infertility. Other treatment options include cyproheptadine, which is generally less expensive, but seems to show less consistent benefits than what has been seen in studies when compared with pergolide. It has been used in combination with pergolide for the purpose of improving its efficacy. Other important aspects of treatment and management of PPID in horses include a good preventative medicine program (vaccines, deworming, dentals), clipping of the long hair coat in summer, management of infections with antibiotics, corrective farriery for laminitis and hoof abscesses, and maintaining a good body condition with an appropriate feeding schedule.

If you suspect your horse may be affected with Equine PPID, and are interested in diagnostic testing and/or treatment, please contact the office to schedule an appointment. For any further questions about this newsletter, feel free to contact Dr. Lacher or Dr. King by phone or email.

 

Keeping Your Older Horse Conditioned

As our equine companions live longer it is important that we keep them in shape.  As a big boned cat I know how difficult this can be so I put together a few guidelines.

The defnition of senior or geriatric horse is very individual dependent.  Some of our patients are slowing way down at 18 to 19 years, others are being ridden 3-4 times per week and even still showing in to their late 20s.  Many factors determine how your horse handles the years but diet, exercise history and genetics are very strong components.

I drew from some human research to determine that the biggest reason we slow down as age is fat.  Young adult humans are at maximum muscle mass which slowly declines over the years and is replaced by fat.  Nerve conduction velocity decrease and we lose some ability to move oxygen from our lungs to our tissues.  But I said slow down, not stop.  This means many older horses can continue to compete, trail ride or whatever you wish.

The type and extent of conditioning primarily will depend on several factors, including the age of the horse, training history, body condition, and the main goal of the conditioning program. For example, the amount of training that is reasonable for a 15-year-old horse will likely be considerably greater than for a horse in his mid-20s. However, regardless of age, we need to consider the horse’s training history carefully. There are many eventers, show jumpers, and endurance horses which have sustained a high level of fitness throughout their teen years–those horses appear capable of training and competing at a level not far below that of a much younger horse. However, because they are well-schooled in their respective events, these seasoned campaigners often can remain competitive with a lower training volume. This helps reduce excessive wear and tear on the musculoskeletal system.

The situation will be much different for the middle-aged and older horse which has received little exercise for a number of years. A much more cautious approach to conditioning is required.  As well, there is an impression among riders and trainers that those horses take more time to attain fitness compared to the youngsters.  Therefore, you must start out very gradually, be patient, and closely monitor your horse for signs that indicate you are overdoing it.  For horses of any age, injury and lameness can occur when the training volume is increased rapidly.  Carefully palpate tendons and ligaments of the lower limbs for signs of heat, swelling, and pain.

Obviously, the level of training also will depend on whether or not you are aiming to compete your horse. This is a reasonable goal for the teenager, but (in most cases) less reasonable for the horse in his mid-20s. More realistic is a program of regular light exercise that helps maintain body condition and muscle tone, and allows the horse to be used for trail riding or similar tasks. This is a win-win situation–regular exercise will help prevent or even reverse some of the age-related changes in muscle mass and strength, and will also improve your horse’s quality of life. Daily turnout is another way to ensure that the horse receives regular exercise, and is certainly important for maintaining good spirits.

The most common limiting factor in older horses is chronic lameness.  It’s a good idea to have one our Doctors examine your older horse before putting the previously idle horse back into work. Lameness associated with foot pain is common in older horses, and some medication as well as special shoes might be necessary.  Pain associated with degenerative joint disease is common; again our Doctors will be able to identify these problems and make recommendations concerning pain relief and exercise programs.

It is advisable to schedule regular veterinary check-ups, particularly for horses in their 20s. Keep a close eye on the joints, tendons, and ligaments of the legs–any stiffness or swelling might signal the recurrence of an old problem and the need to moderate the conditioning program.

Start your conditioning program slow.  Monitor your horse’s response to increased work very closely.  As a guide, do not increase the weekly training distance by more than 5%. Three 10-15 minute sessions per week on the longe line or under saddle might be an appropriate place to begin–the length of these workouts can be increased over the next month. Then, you can add another weekly session and/or begin to increase the intensity of the workouts gradually by inserting some low-speed cantering. Try to vary the workouts as much as possible to maintain the horse’s interest. If possible, include a little hill training–this will help muscles strengthen.

Be cautious during the hot summer months, particularly when beginning training during the summer.  Older humans and animals are often less able to lose body heat during exercise, in part because of a decline in cardiovascular performance and a reduction in sweat gland function.  For that reason, it is wise to limit exercise on very hot days–either shorten the duration of work or reduce the intensity of exercise. In hot weather, actively cool the horse after exercise by applying cold water over the neck and body.  Also allow him to drink a moderate amount of water after exercise to replace fluid losses due to sweating.

Watch your older horse’s weight while increasing workloads.  Some older horses can have trouble absorbing nutrients from their feed.  If your horse is having trouble maintaining weight with an increased work load consider switching to a Senior diet.  With their easily digestible nutrients and higher fat content they are the perfect choice.  Additional fat in the form of vegetable oil can also be added to increase weight.

Hope these guidelines help you keep your older horse in work!

 

Keeping your older horse conditioned

As our equine companions live longer it is important that we keep them in shape.  As a big boned cat I know how difficult this can be so I put together a few guidelines.

The defnition of senior or geriatric horse is very individual dependent.  Some of our patients are slowing way down at 18 to 19 years, others are being ridden 3-4 times per week and even still showing in to their late 20s.  Many factors determine how your horse handles the years but diet, exercise history and genetics are very strong components.

I drew from some human research to determine that the biggest reason we slow down as age is fat.  Young adult humans are at maximum muscle mass which slowly declines over the years and is replaced by fat.  Nerve conduction velocity decrease and we lose some ability to move oxygen from our lungs to our tissues.  But I said slow down, not stop.  This means many older horses can continue to compete, trail ride or whatever you wish.

The type and extent of conditioning primarily will depend on several factors, including the age of the horse, training history, body condition, and the main goal of the conditioning program. For example, the amount of training that is reasonable for a 15-year-old horse will likely be considerably greater than for a horse in his mid-20s. However, regardless of age, we need to consider the horse’s training history carefully. There are many eventers, show jumpers, and endurance horses which have sustained a high level of fitness throughout their teen years–those horses appear capable of training and competing at a level not far below that of a much younger horse. However, because they are well-schooled in their respective events, these seasoned campaigners often can remain competitive with a lower training volume. This helps reduce excessive wear and tear on the musculoskeletal system.

The situation will be much different for the middle-aged and older horse which has received little exercise for a number of years. A much more cautious approach to conditioning is required. As well, there is an impression among riders and trainers that those horses take more time to attain fitness compared to the youngsters. Therefore, you must start out very gradually, be patient, and closely monitor your horse for signs that indicate you are overdoing it. For horses of any age, injury and lameness can occur when the training volume is increased rapidly. Carefully palpate tendons and ligaments of the lower limbs for signs of heat, swelling, and pain.

Obviously, the level of training also will depend on whether or not you are aiming to compete your horse. This is a reasonable goal for the teenager, but (in most cases) less reasonable for the horse in his mid-20s. More realistic is a program of regular light exercise that helps maintain body condition and muscle tone, and allows the horse to be used for trail riding or similar tasks. This is a win-win situation–regular exercise will help prevent or even reverse some of the age-related changes in muscle mass and strength, and will also improve your horse’s quality of life. Daily turnout is another way to ensure that the horse receives regular exercise, and is certainly important for maintaining good spirits.

The most common limiting factor in older horses is chronic lameness.  It’s a good idea to have one our Doctors examine your older horse before putting the previously idle horse back into work. Lameness associated with foot pain is common in older horses, and some medication as well as special shoes might be necessary. Pain associated with degenerative joint disease is common; again our Doctors will be able to identify these problems and make recommendations concerning pain relief and exercise programs.

It is advisable to schedule regular veterinary check-ups, particularly for horses in their 20s. Keep a close eye on the joints, tendons, and ligaments of the legs–any stiffness or swelling might signal the recurrence of an old problem and the need to moderate the conditioning program.

Start your conditioning program slow.  Monitor your horse’s response to increased work very closely.  As a guide, do not increase the weekly training distance by more than 5%. Three 10-15 minute sessions per week on the longe line or under saddle might be an appropriate place to begin–the length of these workouts can be increased over the next month. Then, you can add another weekly session and/or begin to increase the intensity of the workouts gradually by inserting some low-speed cantering. Try to vary the workouts as much as possible to maintain the horse’s interest. If possible, include a little hill training–this will help muscles strengthen.

Be cautious during the hot summer months, particularly when beginning training during the summer. Older humans and animals are often less able to lose body heat during exercise, in part because of a decline in cardiovascular performance and a reduction in sweat gland function. For that reason, it is wise to limit exercise on very hot days–either shorten the duration of work or reduce the intensity of exercise. In hot weather, actively cool the horse after exercise by applying cold water over the neck and body. Also allow him to drink a moderate amount of water after exercise to replace fluid losses due to sweating.

Watch your older horse’s weight while increasing workloads.  Some older horses can have trouble absorbing nutrients from their feed.  If your horse is having trouble maintaining weight with an increased work load consider switching to a Senior diet.  With their easily digestible nutrients and higher fat content they are the perfect choice.  Additional fat in the form of vegetable oil can also be added to increase weight.

Hope these guidelines help you keep your older horse in work!

In Case of Emergency

We all know horses have an amazing ability to find new and fun ways to injure themselves and their humans.  In this blog, I will briefly touch on the basic things to have on hand and the protocols to have in place for emergencies.

There are three common horse emergencies: Colic, Eyes and Legs

Let’s start with colic.  Horses have been badly designed by Mother Nature so if you have horses long enough you will experience colic.  The best way to deal with colics is to prevent them.  A few quick pointers: any change to diet should happen over 5-7 days minimum, roughage and high quality concentrates will minimize digestive upsets and horses hate change so keep to a routine as much as possible.  So you have done everything to prevent colic but come home one evening to find your horse unwilling to eat, rolling on the ground or just laying around.  Step One is a basic assessment of your horse’s vital signs.  Is your horse sweating a lot, breathing very rapidly or extremely restless?  If so, call us immediately.  These are signs of a more severe colic which requires attention quickly.  If your horse is quietly laying down, breathing normally or just acting a little off start with a short, slow walk ideally near some good grass.  A short walk, a small offer of something tasty like apples, carrots or treats or even a 2 minute lunge at a trot will often get these mild colics feeling much better.  However, if your horse is not back to normal after 15-20 minutes please be sure to call Springhill Equine so the best course of action can be determined.

Our horses were blessed with the big beautiful eyes that sit on the sides of their heads where they can poke them on things.  And leave it to horses to find plenty of things to poke them on.  Eyes can quickly become infected with bacteria and fungus, especially in Florida.  Eyelids need to be sutured as soon as possible for the most cosmetic outcome.  A few things to look for: the eye itself should be very clear, any cloudiness is a definite sign of trouble, looking at your horse from the front both eyes should be open evenly and excessive drainage could be a sign of a blocked tear duct.  If in doubt about an issue it is never a bad idea to place some plain antibiotic ointment (NOT the kind with steroids) in the affected eye and give your horse one gram of Bute.  Once you have done this, call Springhill Equine and we will help decide if an emergency call is necessary or if the next day will be fine.  Any cuts to the eyelid can be treated the same way but will require sutures within 3-4 hours.

From that random piece of barbwire they manage to find to the hole that wasn’t there this morning, horses are very good at putting their legs where they don’t belong.  Quick leg guidelines: if a cut or puncture is near a joint call immediately, cold hosing any laceration will help remove dirt and debris and always have good bandaging material on hand just in case.  The most common things we see are lacerations to the lower leg.  Many of these are managed with lots of cold hosing, Vaseline or Neosporin and a good bandage.  Sutures might be placed but most of the time we are trying to use the skin as a temporary bandage.  Because horses have such a poor blood supply to the lower leg it is difficult to get sutured skin to stay happy for longer than 3-4 days.  The most important thing to remember about legs is that even the smallest laceration can be devastating if it is near a joint so call us for help deciding if this is an emergency or can wait until morning.

A bit of planning ahead of time can make a big difference in how emergencies are handled.  Sit down and make a plan for how much you will spend on each horse you have.  We understand this may differ from horse to horse but thinking about it ahead of time makes decisions easier in crises.  Explore insurance options now.  There are a variety of ways and coverages available.  But signing up for insurance when your horse is headed for colic surgery doesn’t work very well.  Having all your horse’s health information and your wishes written down for any farm help or house sitters will make everything go smoother if you are unreachable for some reason.

We are pretty sure Murphy’s Law was written for horses

Which vaccines do I need?

 

West Nile has been very quiet for the last 5-6 years.  This is largely due to widespread vaccination and a reduction in natural spread in the wild bird population.  Over the past several months however, there has been an increase in virus-infected sentinel birds (birds used to detect natural virus levels in the wild) and one confirmed fatality from the disease in a horse in Alachua County.  You may have thought this disease was dead and gone, but much like Eastern Encephalitis it will most likely be an occasional presence in our area.  At Springhill Equine, we are doing our part to keep your horse protected from this killer virus by providing your horse with the highest quality vaccine, along with our reminder system and Wellness Program to make sure your horse gets vaccinated at the right time.  Keep in mind that mosquitoes spread this virus, so we may not see the true extent of resurgence before our mosquito levels peak next spring, but your horse will still be at risk over the temperate fall and winter months in Florida.  Be sure you horse is not left unprotected.

EWT

The EWT vaccination is a combination product that provides a six-month duration of immunity against deadly Eastern and Western Equine Encephalomyelitis viruses and Tetanus infection.  Despite its availability and effectiveness to prevent these diseases boosters must be done every six months, and as a result there have been several documented cases of Eastern Equine Encephalomyelitis in Alachua and surrounding counties this year alone.  The more numerous these cases become, the more risk there is to any horse in the area, which remains unvaccinated and consequently unprotected.  Although this vaccination is widely available in most local feed stores, it is important to keep in mind that this vaccine is only effective if properly handled up until the vaccine is administered.  That being said, any period of time the vaccine is not kept adequately refrigerated will reduce and possibly eliminate its efficacy.

Rabies

Rabies is a yearly vaccination that provides protection against the deadly rabies virus.  Rabies is an important disease among our domestic animals because it is one of the very few diseases that we as humans can catch from direct contact with our horses.  Animals with rabies spread the disease through saliva or other bodily fluids, and do so for weeks prior to showing any outward signs of infection.  That being the case, there are strict requirements with regard to a horse that may have been exposed to a rabid animal trapped on or near your property, in order to insure that your horse may not have inadvertently exposed you to the virus.  Unfortunately, it is impossible to test an animal for exposure to the virus while it is still alive, so this necessitates euthanasia of the horse.  If vaccination by a licensed veterinarian within the previous 12-month period can be proven, than the horse is simply quarantined for the next 14 days and released if no symptoms are seen.    Again, appropriate vaccination handling and correct administration is imperative for this vaccination to ensure adequate immunity, but when done properly this vaccination will serve to protect not only your horse but also all those in contact with your horse.

Flu and Rhino

These two vaccinations have historically been given to horses as a combination product, but recently a more effective nasal influenza vaccination has been developed which provides yearlong immunity over the previous IM injection that only lasted for six months.  In addition, the rhinovirus vaccination can now be combined with your horses EWT shot, so that your horse will need only receive one   injection every six months.  The next question that most owners ask is “does my horse need to be vaccinated against flu and rhino?”  It is true that these viruses are not usually life-limiting, however they can certainly put your horse out of commission for several days with nasal discharge, fever and general malaise.  In addition, the flu and rhino viruses can even result in death when contracted by young or debilitated animals.  So, the answer to this question is yes if you have foals or geriatric hoses, or if your horse travels off the farm (or is exposed to any other horses traveling off the farm) on a regular basis.  If your horses remain isolated from exposure to other horses, you can feel very comfortable skipping these vaccinations.  It is also important to recognize that although these vaccinations are effective against many forms of these viruses, there are new forms that develop (much like the H1N1 version of flu in people) that even a vaccinated horse can contract.  Therefore, it is important to contact us if you notice these symptoms even if your horse is already vaccinated.

To help ensure your horse stays well protected, Springhill Equine is once again happy to offer our Wellness Programs.  There will be three programs, each available with customized deworming program targeted to your horse’s lifestyle.   We take care of remembering everything and you get a discount on services!

Making your grass greener

It’s grass growing season so I thought I would post on pasture care today.  As a cat I’m not a big grazer but I like to much on the occasional blade of grass.

Is the grass always greener on the other side of your fence?  Wonder how your neighbors have such beautiful pastures and you have weeds?  Jim Smith at Growers Fertilizer in Newberry and Cindy Sanders from the Alachua Country Extension Service gave us some pointers for pristine pastures.

You can’t fix what you don’t know is broken.  Start with a soil test.  This will highlight any deficiencies in the biggies: Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.  Testing will also give you your soil’s pH level and let you know if any of the trace minerals are out of balance.  Many of our local farm supply stores sell soil sampling tools which allow for deeper samples or you can use a shovel.  Either way, be sure to get twelve to fifteen samples per area you are interested in, mix well and then take your final sample.  Once you have your final sample, your fertilizer company can send it off and determine an appropriate mixture for your property.

A few tips:  If you have a large property with several pastures, separate your testing samples so individual pastures can have different mixes if necessary.

Have an area that just won’t grow grass?  Sample that area separately to see if anything special should be done.

Sand-spurs are often an indication of low soil pH.  We usually have a low pH problem in this area.  This is easily corrected with the application of dolomite.

Now that you know what your pastures need for Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphorus, you have your pH and your trace mineral deficiencies you are ready to grow some grass!

Your fertilizer company will be a very valuable resource here.  This time of year fertilizer is usually applied.  Grass seed can be added to overseed your pastures and boost grass production in the summer months.  Trace mineral packages may be needed to even out those minor but important components. The pH is generally addressed in the Fall but consult with your fertilizer company on the best plan for your needs.

What should you do for weeds?  Soil testing will, most likely, show some abnormalities in your soil.  Once corrected many of our common weeds will have trouble growing in your pasture.  However, Chamber Bitter and a few others are annoying, invasive weeds that drastically reduce your grass’s ability to compete.  These weeds are best treated with targeted weedkillers.  Once again contact your fertilizer company or the County Extension service for advice on time of year to attack and chemical to use.  Most of these chemicals are very safe for horses and only require a small amount of time off the pastures.  Once under control, weeds can often be addressed every few years rather than being a constant battle.

Because horses are like potato chips and we can never have just one, our pastures often end up overgrazed.  Overgrazing causes a loss of soil quality and gives weeds the opportunity to take over.  Grass can deal with overgrazing if it is given a rest period.  Dividing your pastures so that you can rotate horses off for at least 2-3 weeks will give your grass a chance to catch up.  We will discuss the benefits of rotation for parasite control in the next section.  During our great summer growing season you will see a huge increase in growth by rotating.

Lastly, let’s talk about managing your pastures to help reduce parasites.  Our horses get their internal parasites from themselves and their friends so manure management is very important.  The best method is to remove the manure and composting it will provide you with excellent fertilizer.  For larger properties manure removal can be very difficult.  Dragging your fields is a good alternative but can spread parasites.  Following a few rules will help kill parasites in the manure.  Keep your fields mowed to reduce thatch where parasite eggs can hide.  Only drag when temperatures are over 85 degrees during the day.  Hot temperatures kill the parasite eggs.  Give the pasture a three week break from grazing to kill those parasites with time and temperature.

With these guidelines and a little help from your fertilizer company the grass can be greener on your side of the fence!

Thanks again to Jim Smith of Growers Fertilizer and Cindy Sanders at the County Extension Service!

Jim can be reached at 352.474.6274 or jsmith@growersfertilizer.com

Cindy can be reached at 352.955.2402 or sanders1@ufl.edu