Hurricane Preparedness

Hurricane Preparedness

Hurricane Preparedness

As a cat, I naturally do not enjoy rainy days.  Teeney and I get stuck in the office (we don’t like to get our paws wet).  While I’m happy Hurricane Irene is no longer headed our way, I thought this would be a good opportunity to discuss getting your property and animals ready for a hurricane.

This is definitely another case of “the best defense is a good offense.”  Always keep an eye on trees that may become a problem and have them trimmed up or removed as soon as possible.  Limbs become flying debris during high winds and can cause life threatening injuries to our animals and our homes and barns.  If you have a burn pile it should be burned down before hurricane season starts if possible (minding any burn bans in your area, of course).  Assess your property for likely problem areas so you can be prepared once the winds and rain die down.  Be sure you know where all your important papers are located.  We all think about insurance documents, wills and that sort of thing, but don’t forget about identifying paperwork for your horses.  Now is the time to take photos of your other animals to help document your ownership, including a family member in the picture.  If possible, scan or photograph paperwork and email it to yourself, as well as a friend or relative out of the path of the hurricane.  This ensures that even if you have a problem accessing your paperwork, it is still “findable.”

Animals can add a new dimension to evacuation plans.  Will you evacuate or stay in place and ride out the storm?  If you plan on evacuating, make sure your animals are welcome at the evacuation site.  Following Hurricane Katrina, new guidelines were put in place to make it easier to evacuate with your dogs and cats.  Horses are not part of this plan, and they require quite a bit more planning.  Many of the large horse show facilities become evacuation centers, but this needs to be evaluated ahead of the storm.  Can you transport all your animals to the evacuation site, and if not, what will you do with the others?

Identification becomes a major problem following disasters.  There are a lot of bay, chestnut and gray horses out there.  You will be reunited with your animals more quickly if you make sure it is easy for aid workers to identify your animals.  Microchips are one of the easiest, fastest, and most secure ways to do this.  We embed a small chip in your horse’s neck under local anesthesia, which carries a unique identification number registered to you.  This, along with a recent Coggins form or registration papers, makes it very easy to match horse and owner.  Microchips are also available for your dog and cat.  In fact, most animals can be microchipped.  Many zoos and aquariums microchip all of their animals from elephants to fish!  For long distance identification, a grease marker or set of clippers can be used to write your telephone number (which is linked to your name and address) on your horse’s coat.  This should be visible from a distance so rescue workers can quickly identify that this horse has an owner they may be able to locate.  It is also a good idea to have a back up phone number for someone who lives out of the disaster path.  This person should be aware that they have been chosen and should have copies of pictures and paperwork identifying your horse (and your other animals).  Many times local phone systems go down during disasters, and a distant number may be the only way of contacting you!

One question we often get is, “Where should I put my horse during the storm?”  The best answer is outside, in the largest pasture available with the fewest trees, wearing a leather halter.  The best identified horse has grease pen phone numbers on both sides and phone numbers written in permanent marker on strips of cloth braided in to the mane and tail.  Luggage tags may also be braided into the mane and tail for identification purposes. Being outside allows our horses to avoid debris if at all possible, and prevents them from getting trapped in case of structural failure of the barn.  One of our clients turned her horses out in a 100 acre cow field during Hurricane Charley.  They could watch the horses and cattle line up in a long line with their backs to the wind.  The line gradually moved out from under the trees and then back again as the storm went through.  If given the opportunity, most of our horses will do the right thing! However, some horses will not tolerate this, and behave like maniacs.  In that case, keep your horse in the sturdiest barn you have access to, considering elevation of the barn if flooding is a concern in your area. This may not be on your property! Consider people in or near your neighborhood who may have more adequate facilities, and make plans in advance on where your horse can go locally.  Board up any openings to the outside to keep debris from flying in to the stall but make sure there is adequate air flow.  Whether your horses are in a barn or in a field, be familiar with possible alternatives for access points, should the main entry become obstructed by debris.

This is just a start on hurricane preparedness.  Look for much more information at our Open House on October 8th, 2011 from 10am to 1pm (so we can all get home for the football game – Go Gators!).  You can also find additional information at www.AAEP.org, www.AVMA.org, and www.floridahorse.com/hurricane.

May your litter box always be clean and your food bowl full!!

Trailer Ride!

Trailer Ride!

 

This week I have turned my blogging duties over to Gigi.  She is one of Dr. Lacher’s horses and is on a road trip to Culpeper, VA this week.  She wanted to talk about trailering from the horse’s point of view since she doesn’t think cats know much about it.

As a yearling to two year old, I started getting on and off the trailer occasionally at home.  During these initial lessons, we didn’t go anywhere and always did this when there was plenty of time to work on trailering.  Later if there was room on the trailer, I would get to ride to lessons or trail rides the other horses were going to so I could learn all about going places.  Finally when I was around 4-5 years old I began getting on the trailer and going to horse shows where I had to show.  This way I was only learning one new thing at a time.  I had already learned to trailer, so looking good at the horse show was the only thing I had to worry about.

Recently I have begun trailering long distances.  Culpeper is the longest trip so far of about 14 hours.  For these longer trips my mom, Dr. Lacher, takes some special precautions to make sure we arrive in tip-top shape.

The best offense is a good defense.  We are kept up to date on all our vaccines but never within 14 days of a horse show.  This gives our immune system time to respond to vaccines before the horse show.  Mom also makes sure our nutrition is optimum.  We eat good quality grain and hay and are kept at a good weight.  She may even let us get a little fat before these long trips since we tend to lose a little bit of weight on the trip.  All of us go on a fitness regimen to make sure we are fit enough for the horse show since fatigue can make the trailer ride and horse show even harder on our systems.

The week before leaving on long trips the trailer is checked thoroughly.  Air pressure in the tires on the truck and trailer are checked as are lug nuts.  Mom is very fanatic about this step since low air pressure contributes to blow outs and she HATES changing horse trailer tires on the side of the interstate.  We also had a tire come off the horse trailer once because the lug nuts had loosened so she is always checking the lug nuts.  Before long trips the bedding in the trailer is stripped and new bedding placed back in.  During this process the floor of the trailer is checked to be sure there are no problems.  I like when this is done with enough time to get the truck and/or trailer in to the shop to fix anything before we leave.  We use the truck and trailer regularly so it doesn’t often go for a test drive before these trips but if you don’t use yours often, I would recommend a small drive around the block to make sure all the lights, brakes, etc.  are working.

The two feedings before our trip we will get extra water added to our regular grain and a bit of added alfalfa to make sure we are well hydrated for the trip.  The last feeding before we leave is usually only half our grain to make sure we don’t get upset stomachs on the trip.  The trailer is loaded with alfalfa just before we get on.  We normally eat alfalfa and recommend that you load the trailer with your horse’s usual hay.  A small amount (1/4 flake) of alfalfa added to your regular hay will help stimulate thirst and keep the G.I. tract moving.

There are two schools of leg wrap thought: do it and don’t do it.  I don’t generally wear leg wraps, especially in the summer, because it is so hot on the trailer anyway and this significantly reduces my ability to cool off with the large leg blood vessels.  I don’t recommend using leg wraps if your horse is not used to wearing them.  Most of us spend the first few hours stomping our feet trying to figure out what these things are and that’s the last thing we need to be doing on a long drive.  If your horse is used to leg wraps, is very active in the trailer and the weather is reasonable, leg wraps are a wise idea since they prevent nicks, cuts and scrapes.  They can also be extremely beneficial if there is an accident since they protect our delicate and important legs.

Once on the road we go with a “drive til you get there’ philosophy.  We only stop when we absolutely have to and food, fuel and restrooms are taken care of in that one stop.  I find the trailer gets uncomfortably warm when we aren’t moving.  At stops, we get more hay if we have eaten all we have and we get offered water.  I don’t like the taste of truck stop water so I don’t drink much but I drink well once we arrive.  We are left loose in our slots on the trailer.  I can’t turn around but it does let me put my head down which helps clear my lungs of any debris.  Mom is always quoting studies and claims there is a good one on the benefits of not tying your horse’s head up when trailering. (Aust Vet J. 1996 Feb;73(2):45-9.Effects of posture and accumulated airway secretions on tracheal mucociliary transport in the horse.Raidal SL, Love DN, Bailey GD.)   She does tie my big brother because otherwise he is a general pest but only ties us up when there is a need.

Once we arrive at our destination, we get off the trailer once our stalls are bedded and fresh water added.  Then we horses get to watch while the trailer is unloaded and cleaned.  Once the trailer is parked and unhooked we get to go for a short walk to stretch our legs.  Then we get a good night’s sleep before going to work the next day.

I find this system lets me look my best for my adoring fans at the horse show and reduces my risk of catching anything from my new friends.  Great places to look for further help include: www.USRider.org and equipass.nmca.com.  Our Doctors and staff are also ready to help you with any of your trailering questions or concerns.

A special Thank You! to Tony for letting me blog this week

Gigi  

Club Feet

Club Feet

This week I offered my cat services during an inferior check ligament desmotomy so I told the Doctors I would write my blog on club feet, especially in foals.

Club feet are probably the most common lower limb deformity we see.  Identifying a club foot early and initiating treatment is crucial for your horse’s long term health.

Let’s start with a definition of club foot.  A club foot is, technically speaking, a contracture of the deep digital flexor tendon leading to a flexoral deformity of the distal interphalangeal joint.  In English that means the tendon that runs up the back of the leg is too tight, causing the hoof to be too upright.  Club feet are not the same as contracted tendons in foals.  This occurs when the deep and/or superficial digital flexor tendon is too tight.  These often respond to bandaging, splints, relaxation treatment with oxytetracycline and stall rest.  Some of these foals will go on to have a club foot but most will be perfectly normal after a few days to weeks of treatment.

Club feet are most effectively treated in foals.  Dr. Lacher and Dr. King will examine your foal during your initial vaccine visit to determine if this could be an issue.  Here I will talk about what they look for and some treatment options.  The foot will initially exhibit a bulge at the coronary band, and the heels will have a contracted appearance to them. In addition, the hoof wall fails to expand when it comes in contact with the ground, resulting in the loss of flexibility in the soft tissue surrounding the coffin joint. The hoof wall at the toe develops a dished appearance and the tip of the coffin bone is more prone to injury.

There are varying degrees of severity and the best course of treatment will depend on the individual involved. Early forms of this condition might require frequent trimming programs for the hooves in order to lower the heels and protect the toe so it does not excessively wear down. In long-standing cases of club feet, surgery might be required if the horse is lame. Surgery will address the needs of the foot as well and aid in lowering the heels. Application of a composite material to the toe will aid in protecting the hoof from further digression.

The diagnosis of a club foot is not necessarily a “death sentence,” which is what many people are conditioned to think. There are several well-known horses with club feet which have gone on to very successful athletic careers. When a horse is diagnosed as having a club foot, immediate and aggressive treatment should be used. This immediate care might allow you to stop the condition before it develops into a severe case. Early detection of a club foot also is key to the successful treatment of the problem; the earlier it’s detected, the earlier aggressive treatment can begin and the better the odds are that the horse will go on to a successful athletic career.

If you are concerned about your horse’s foot conformation don’t hesitate to call Springhill Equine for an evaluation!

Important Breeding Information

Thinking about breeding your mare this year?  There are a whole lot of choices out there: live cover, cooled, shipped semen, frozen semen, embryo transfer.   Each choice has its good and bad points so examining your needs closely and a discussion or two with our Veterinarians will be extremely helpful.

Live cover offers the longest sperm life and, in general, the fewest reactions from the mare’s immune system.  This allows for less precise timing for breeding.  For instance, a mare can be bred on Friday but not ovulate for 2-3 days and have a reasonable chance of becoming pregnant.  The biggest drawbacks are limited choice of stallions and increased risk of disease transmission.  This is the only option for registration of Thoroughbreds and can be a great option for local stallions.

Cooled, shipped semen is the most common and offers an excellent combination of pricing, stallion availability and acceptance by the mare’s immune system.  Occasionally some mares will react to some of the ingredients needed to ship semen but this is uncommon.  Timing of insemination must be timed to within approximately 12-24 hours prior to ovulation.  Diseases can be transmitted but careful questioning of stallion owners can minimize this concern.

Frozen semen is the more expensive option compared to the previous, both from the cost of the semen and insemination of the mare.  Mares must be intensively managed so that insemination can occur within 8 hours of ovulation.  Most mares will also have a uterine reaction which must be managed after insemination.  In some mares this reaction can be severe leading to the need for multiple uterine flushes.  This is the only option for deceased stallions, stallions at stud in countries other than Mexico and Canada and is often the only option for actively competing stallions.

Embryo transfer is an excellent option for the mare with a full time job.  Recent research shows the mare should be out of work only during the few weeks it takes to breed your mare and flush for an embryo.  Embryo transfer is the most expensive route to a foal but allows your mare to continue in work and have more than one foal per year.

One of the many added services we can now offer at our brand new facility is an assortment of breeding packages.  All of our packages allow you to drop your mare off with us for the duration of the breeding and post-breeding period, which will eliminate the need for you to take time out of your busy schedule to meet us for each check.  In addition, by having your mare at our barn for breeding this season we can be more efficient at gauging the timing for ovulation and subsequent breeding, as all mares can be checked first thing in the morning, and are not subject to our availability to get to each farm.  Finally, and most importantly, by packaging our services we are able to offer them at a reduced rate over what these services would cost if they were being performed at your farm.  More convenient, better accuracy, and less money!  How can you beat that?

All of our breeding packages assume acquisition of your mare in heat and in good reproductive status.  Package prices include all necessary ultrasound examinations to time ovulation and insemination just right, as well as any medications used to induce ovulation.  Also as part of our packages, all mares will receive a post-breeding lavage and oxytocin injection after each insemination. Ovulation will be confirmed by ultrasound 24 hours post-breeding.  Packages can also be customized to include an embryo transfer.

Package prices are as follows:

Cooled, Shipped Semen: $350

2 dose Frozen Semen: $550

1 dose Frozen Semen: $650

Here at Springhill we haven’t forgotten about the other half of the breeding equation, the Stallion. We are able to offer collection and shipping here at our facility as well. Breeding soundness exams for new stallions or purchasing evaluations are also available.

Springhill Equine is here with a variety of reproductive services to meet all your needs.