If you’ve ever visited Springhill Equine, you know I can usually be found in one of two places: the front porch, or the front counter. From this vantage point I watch Joe The Courier, and Tony The UPS Guy drop off packages just about every day. I’m partial to Tony for the obvious reason that his mother named him correctly. While the empty boxes are the highlight of my day, this week I’m going to talk about some of what’s in those boxes: drugs. Not the illegal kind, rather the kind my Docs use every day to help horses stay healthy. This is no small task with the propensity of horses towards self harm. Anyway, drugs. There are some very important things you should know about where they come from, and how my Docs know they can trust that the drugs they’re using are safe.

The FDA

Anything that would like to be called a pharmaceutical has to be approved as one by the FDA. You don’t just get to wake up in the morning and call my hairball a drug. You have to go through a process first, and spoiler alert, my hairball is unlikely to get approved as a drug. First, you have to be on a list of drugs the FDA keeps called the United States Pharmacopoeia. If you are, you can then proceed to prove that your version doesn’t violate any patents held by drug companies, that it has in it what it says it does, in the amount it says it does, and that it doesn’t have stuff in it it’s not supposed to. Makes sense. And seems like a darn good idea to this cat.

If you are a new drug, things are a little trickier, and more expensive. Now, some people like to start flinging litter over the expense issue of new drugs. I’m not going to debate that side of things. I’m a cat. Money means nothing to me. We’re going to stick to the process and why it exists. If you are a new drug, and very specifically a new animal drug, you have to prove you’re safe in all the species you intend to give that new drug to. For example, if you are licensing Adequan for horses, you need to show that it’s safe in horses. You haven’t shown that it’s safe in dogs, so you can’t say it’s okay for dogs until you show it’s safe for them, too. It gets even trickier if you’re saying it’s safe for cows that are going to be eaten by humans. Then you have to show that it’s safe for cows, and safe for humans eating those cows. All of this seems like a really good idea to this cat. I want to know that the drugs my Docs are using are safe, and have in them what they say they will.

Loopholes

That part where I talked about approval costing a lot of money. Well, there are some humans out there who would like to avoid that. The way they do that with a drug is by getting it labeled as a medical device. Tony, you ask, what is a medical device, and how is it different from a drug? Well, a drug relies on a chemical process happening in or on the body to work. A device works just by being there. A device is a needle, or a syringe, or a catheter. This definition has been used broadly to apply to things put on horses as well. Things like wound lavages that have ingredients similar to Adequan and Legend. That’s right. A bunch of those products out there that claim to be just like Adequan or just like Legend are actually regulated as medical devices instead of drugs. This means they are sterile, and must follow certain packaging requirements to ensure they are what they say they are. They don’t have to show that they are safe to give in any other way than what the packaging says. What am I trying to say? That “generic” labeled as a wound lavage has not been tested for intravenous or intramuscular injection in the same way Adequan and Legend have been. They also aren’t held to the same standards of consistency as a product labeled a drug. Overall, though, a medical device is at the very least sterile, and is what it says it is.

The Mother of All Loopholes

The supplement. Things labeled supplements are the Wild West of the pharmaceutical world. No one makes sure they are what they say they are. Supplement is also reserved for things you feed to your horse, not things you inject into them. If you are injecting something labeled as a supplement, you have absolutely NO guarantee that it 1) Is what it says it is, and 2) Is even sterile. Supplements are a buyer-beware market.

Now, the supplement industry recognizes this, and they don’t appreciate a bad apple. In an effort to combat this, there have been some industry groups formed like NASC. NASC tests supplements to be sure they contain what the label says, then places a label on that supplement letting you know they’re a member. It’s not 100% ideal since the supplement companies submit their products for testing, but hey, at least it’s an attempt.

Be wise like this cat. If it seems like you’re being sold snake oil, you probably are. Got doubts about a product someone wants you to try? Ask my Docs for help. They love answering questions! And they also love the opportunity to make the world a better place for horses, and if they can keep you from injecting a supplement into your horse, that counts as a win. Now, be a good human: scroll down to the purple box, and subscribe to this blog. That way you get an email when I write a new one, rather than relying on Facebook to let you know.

Until next week,
~Tony

P.S. If you want to learn more about this or any other horse-health-related topic, check out the podcast my Docs produce. It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. You can learn more than you ever imagined about your horse, and it’s all free! Now, time for a nap

The Equine Eye – and its Many Problems!

Alright humans, today we’re going to talk about horse eye problems. I’m going to use my loudest meow for this one, the same one I use when you are late with my dinner and I’m staaaaarving. Imagine me reading this to you in that voice. Because this is almost as important.

Horse eyes are pretty cool things. The horse has a field of vision that goes about 350 degrees, almost all the way around his body. I might be a bit jealous since mine only goes about 200 degrees, but hey, I do pretty well keeping the lizard population at my Clinic under control, if I do say so myself. While horses see a whole lot of things (all the better to spook at), the downside is a horse’s eyes are prominently located and susceptible to injuries.

Any injury or problem with their eyes should be taken very seriously, as damage can escalate fast. The biggest mistake that horse owners can make is not seeking treatment early and losing the opportunity to treat the problem before it’s too late. I know some of you have some ointment laying around the barn and you’re thinking about sticking that goo in your horse’s eye. Nope. This is not a “let’s see how it looks in a couple days and decide if we need to call the vet” kind of thing. The longer you wait, the more difficult (and expensive) the eye may be to treat. Don’t turn a treatable eye problem into a Cat-astrophe, call your vet! Fur real, you may well be saving your horse’s sight!

When your horse’s eye is healthy, it will be open, clear, and without any discharge. Here are some signs of problems:

• excessive watery tears
  • yellow or green discharge
  • an eyelid that is swollen or fully/partially closed
  • a cloudy-looking white or blue tinged eye
  • red or swollen conjunctiva
  • rubbing the eye or shaking the head excessively
  • obvious blood or laceration
  • a growth on or around the eye

There are multiple eye-related conditions that horses can suffer and telling one problem from another should be left to your vet. Without the training and equipment to differentiate them, trying to diagnose an eye problem yourself can lead to disaster. One ointment won’t fix all problems and may actually make some conditions worse. For example, the ointment that you had from your horse that had uveitis is one of the worst things you could put in an eye with a corneal ulcer.

The exam

Once you’ve called one of my docs, you can make your horse more comfortable by bringing him to his stall, or somewhere shady, since he may be more sensitive to light than usual. A dark place is better for my doc’s exam, too. Be aware that if he has obscured vision, he might be a bit more spooky than usual. Be gentle and slow when handling him and try not to surprise him on the side he isn’t seeing well out of. Don’t try to force his eye open to have a look – that can be very painful for the horse or possibly push a foreign object like a splinter deeper into the eye. Hold off on using any medications or ointments until your vet has examined the eye.

My doc will probably sedate your horse to get a good look in the eye. She will likely apply a special dye called fluorescein to his eye to look for damage to the surface of the cornea. (Pro Tip: this looks especially awesome on Halloween if you have a black light around. I tried it myself once – a black cat with glowing yellow eyes sure does freak the humans out! But I digress…) My doc will look thoroughly for anything stuck in the eye or under the eyelids, like a grass awn. She will use an ophthalmoscope to look in the back of your horse’s eye and evaluate for problems that aren’t apparent to the untrained eye. She may do other stuff too, depending on what she finds, but those are the usual starters.

Common conditions

There are a whole bunch of different eye conditions, and this cat just doesn’t have the patience to list them all, so here are just a few of the most common ones.

Corneal ulcers: Horses can develop an infection of the cornea (the clear surface of the eyeball) after scratching the surface of the eye. Then, bacteria or fungus in the environment get involved and bring their nasty habits along. Horses may have a white spot on their eye or the whole eyeball may look cloudy. They will usually squint and have tears running down from the eye.  These infections should be seen by a vet who can determine whether the infection is on the surface or if it’s deeper in the cornea – a stromal abscess. Regular antibiotic ointment may not work on those. Also, because the infection may be caused by a fungus (and fungi laugh at antibiotics!) your vet may need to prescribe an anti-fungal medication. After all, we live in Florida, and Florida is purrrfect for fungus! If your horse needs it, there are also specialized masks that provide eye protection with a molded eye cup, designed to protect the eyeball from rubbing while it is being treated.

Equine recurrent uveitis: Also known as “moon-blindness”, ERU is a disease of inflammation inside the eyeball. The signs of ERU can start mildly with tearing, squinting, or swelling, but can progress to severe eye pain and blindness, especially if left untreated. Sometimes it gets bad enough that the eye must be removed for the horse to be comfortable. Starting treatment in the early phases is important to minimize the progression of the disease. The symptoms can be pretty similar to a corneal ulcer, so it’s important that the correct diagnosis be made.

Conjunctivitis: This condition is caused by a bacterial infection of the conjunctiva, the pink tissues that line the inside of the eyelid. You may see swelling and redness of the conjunctiva and perhaps a yellow or green discharge. Windblown dust and insects cause irritation to the eye, causing the horse to rub his eyes, and bacteria can invade the tissues. Your vet will make sure the eyeball itself is ok, and if so, will provide antibacterial treatment.

Squamous cell carcinoma: SCC is one of the most common cancers found on or around the horse’s eye. It can be found on the eyeball itself, on the eyelid, or the 3^rd eyelid, and is especially common on horses with white markings around their eyes (or anywhere on their face). SCC may just look like a small pink cobblestone-textured bump, or like an ulcer.  If caught early, it can be treated. If not, it can be a bad deal.

Eyelid lacerations: A cut to your horse’s eyelid should always be looked at by a vet so it can be sutured if needed. Never assume it will just scar over and heal by itself. If your horse doesn’t have a functional eyelid margin, he won’t be able to keep his eye moist and painful eye ulcers can result. I know you would never dream of doing this – but I’m going to say it anyway – never cut any skin off the horse’s eyelid yourself.

How to avoid a problem

Yeah, even the most careful owner may not be able to avoid eye problems because horses are the most accident-prone creatures on the planet. But since they don’t have 9 lives like me, it’s worth a shot to make your horse’s home as safe as possible! Remove or cover any sharp edges, old nails, and protruding objects from your horse’s stall, fencing, or field. Avoid moldy hay so spores don’t get in his eyes. If his hay or bedding are dusty, dampen them with water or find a less dusty kind (hemp is a solid choice). Check his eyes every day for injuries or abnormal appearance. If flies are numerous or if he is sensitive to them, invest in a fly mask to keep his eyes protected. For horses with white markings around their eyes, make it a UV-protectant mask to reduce his risk of squamous cell carcinoma. But be sure to check under the fly mask daily!

If your horse has an eye condition you have been working on with your vet, here are a couple of other things you can do to make things go well.

• If you see improvement after a few days of treatment, don’t stop the medication until the full course is finished! This goes for any antibiotic for any condition. You don’t want to create super-resistant bacteria that won’t respond to antibiotics, riiiight? Stopping treatment before the infection is completely resolved can result in it flaring up even worse than before.
• If the eye medication is supposed to go in the eye 4 times a day, you gotta do that. My doc knows that schedule is a pain, she really isn’t just trying to torture you. But we can’t mess around with eyes, so it’s got to get done.
• If your horse isn’t letting you get the medication into his eye successfully, talk with your vet since there may be some options (such as a sub-palpebral lavage system) to make things easier on both of you.
• Communicate with your vet about changes you notice. If you think he has been rubbing his eye more, let your vet know. If you think the ulcer might be a bit bigger, your vet needs to know.

Prompt treatment is the key to a successful outcome for any eye issue. Follow these guidelines and work with your vet to help your horse’s eyeballs stay beautiful! Now after thinking about eyes for so long, I think mine need a rest…I’m off for a cat nap.

Until next week,

 Tony

P.S. Looking for more information on the equine eye and other great topics, be sure to check out our podcast here.  Dr. Lacher and Justin are full of wisdom and have some great guest speakers too!

Horses. They sure have had a week of being horses around here. You would think I could say that every week. Luckily, they aren’t all that way. We’ve had two horses decide fences were fun to put their legs through, one who wildly over-estimated his ability to jump a fence, one who thought eating all the hay placed in front of them was reasonable, and another who suffered from the poor design of the equine GI tract.

Where am I going, you ask? Horses are going to be horses. No matter how well you design your farm, they are going to find a way to hurt themselves, or Mother Nature is going to work against you with her questionable interior design. Having a plan is necessary when you have horses. Cats always land on their feet. I’m pretty sure horses always land in the manner which causes them the most bodily harm. 

First Aid Kit

Have one. In fact, call my minions and pick one up at the Clinic, or have them ship you one. We’ve got one ready made. Here’s what’s in it:

I also suggest you add the following to your first aid kit: 

·Pocket knife/multi tool

·Lead Rope

·Towels

·Info card with your horse’s normal vitals and microchip number

·Copy of Coggins

Armed with these supplies, you are prepared to manage just about anything a horse can do until one of my Docs arrive.

Insurance/Savings Account

Horses are expensive. I like to be a high maintenance guy with my diabetes and my overly sensitive skin, but I’ve got nothing, and I mean nothing, on a horse. A simple colic can be $500, a laceration can easily go into the $1000 range, and don’t get me started on surgeries. Before your horse sizes up your fence, tries to jump, doesn’t make it, and lays their chest open, have a plan for payment. Don’t be in denial that your horse won’t try to drain your bank account. Every. Single. One. Of. Them does it! 

Being the smart cat I am, I have two solid recommendations: a savings account, and insurance. A combination of the two is really your best bet. There are a ton of insurance options for horses. Even if your horses can’t be given a high value by an appraiser, they’re priceless to you. There are insurance plans that will let you cover colic surgery only, some hospitalization only, or all the things. Talking with a great insurance agent will open your eyes to the many options available. You can start by watching our Insurance Seminar over on our YouTube channel at this link (https://youtu.be/el7H3W9VCJI). 

You should also have a savings account with your horse’s name on it. Being the fiscally responsible cat I am, I would put a dollar amount in there every month. This way you have a cushion when Flicka finds the one stick in the pasture to impale herself on. You can also use it to cover the deductible on your insured horse. Win:Win. It’s important to know that many insurance policies work by reimbursing you after you’ve paid your vet bill. That makes the savings account even more important.

Documents

Be prepared even when you’re not there. Going away on vacation? Hit the menu above to find our boarding agreement document. This document works great if you are boarding to authorize your barn owner/manager to take care of your horse in your absence. It also works to authorize your farm sitter when you’re out of town. We’ve got an area for you to let us know how much you want to spend on your horse, how far you would like to go with treatments, and your wishes if your horse passes away. Super-useful so that you can enjoy that vacation with a little less worrying about the horses. 

Be prepared for the worst. You humans don’t like to even think about death, but if you’ve got horses, you need a plan in case the unspeakable happens to you. Talk with an attorney about setting up a trust for your cats, I mean horses, so they get the care you desire even if you are gone. My Docs see lots of horses in bad situations because their owners passed away suddenly, and there was no plan for the horses. My experience has been that humans hate planning for this part of the cycle of life. Do it. Get it over with. Move on. Life advice by Tony.

Spending a little bit of time planning for all the crazy things horses and life can throw at you will reap large rewards later. Take some advice from this wise cat. Get a first aid kit, investigate insurance, and look into a Trust. You can get it all done in less time than I spend lounging on the front benches every day. You can thank me at the next seminar. 

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. In case you missed it, my Docs put on a seminar recently about Acupuncture and Chiropractic, which is called Equine Medical Manipulation, or EMM, in horses. You can watch the video on my YouTube channel, along with many other past seminars. It’s a great resource, and it’s free! You’re welcome. Before you go, scroll down a bit more and subscribe to my blog. It’s the big purple block, you can’t miss it. Go on. Do it now. Obey the Cat.

I’ve gotten a bunch of questions recently about what is appropriate to feed your horse, and more specifically, what is the best kind of hay to feed. You all must be very smart coming to the cat for advice on food, best move yet.  With so many different types of hay out there I can understand why you might be confused. And let’s be honest, with the prices of hay what they are, your hay purchase is certainly an investment. Each type of hay or combination thereof, has a place in feeding horses and some types may prove to be better than others for your horse. Just because one horse eats one kind of hay does not mean that hay is a one-type-fits-all and it may not be appropriate for other horses.

Hay can be classified into legume hay or grass hay, within these two categories fall all the different types of hay. Let’s check them out.

Legumes

 Legume hays are hays such as alfalfa and peanut hay. These types of hay are high in protein and energy content while being lower in fiber. Alfalfa also has higher levels of calcium. Hay with a higher protein and energy content are ideal for the young, growing horse, the performance or working horse, and lactating mares. Similarly, the higher calcium levels of alfalfa are excellent for lactating and pregnant mares.  However, just because you like alfalfa or peanut hay does not mean that you horse needs it.

 Is your horse a pasture potato? Does your horse go on the occasional walking trail ride, or does your horse have metabolic changes like yours truly? Well, then, you probably do not want to feed them a hay that is high in protein and energy.  Because of its lower fiber content and higher protein levels, legume hay can lead to obesity in your horse.  While horses are not likely to become diabetic, they can become insulin resistant or develop equine metabolic syndrome which makes them prone to becoming overweight (which I wouldn’t know anything about, I’m as fit as a fiddle) as well as making them prone to developing laminitis and subsequent founder. Be sure to talk to my docs to see if your horse is at risk for metabolic changes.

 Did you know that the higher calcium levels in alfalfa hay have been shown to help decrease the incidence of gastric ulcers? Research as shown, and you all know I love my research, that the calcium in alfalfa hay acts as a buffer to the pH of the stomach and can reduce the incidence of gastric ulcer in your horse.  I recommend, however, if you suspect your horse has ulcers that you bring him into the clinic for evaluation and gastroscopy before changing up his feeding regime.

 Alfalfa tends to be slightly more expensive than peanut hay. I have heard from my minions that peanut hay can be messy to feed, so some people avoid feeding it.  A little mess never bothered me, but then again, I have people to clean up after me.

 Grass Hays

 Grass hays are what I would be forced to eat if I were a horse.  Not to say that they aren’t an excellent source of forage, I just prefer filet mignon over vegetables if you get my drift. Grass hays include timothy, Bermuda/coastal, tifton 85, and orchard hay.  These hays are high in fiber with lower protein, energy and calcium levels than legume hay.  They are ideal for the easy keeper type horse, the metabolic horse, and mature, non-working horses.  Grass hay is a good source of forage for horses that may not have the most luscious pastures to graze on as grass hay can be fed in larger amounts without adding a significant amount of calories to your horse’s diet. This means they can munch on it all day without getting too fat.  Hmmm, on second thought, grass hay isn’t sounding half bad. I would get to eat all day, so sign me up!

 Yet another benefit of grass hay is that the dust content is lower, making it an excellent hay choice for horses who are prone to respiratory problems such as equine asthma.  Grass hay has a wide range in cost as well. Some hay, such as coastal/Bermuda hay is relatively inexpensive whereas timothy hay can be significantly more expensive.  You can be as fancy as you want with grass hay.

 However, like legume hay, feeding certain grass hay is not without risk.  Coastal/Bermuda hay and tifton 85 are very common grass hays that are fed in Florida.  They are easy to get, inexpensive and generally have a consistent quality. However, if you look closely at these types of hays you will notice that their stalks are very fine. This, along with the anomaly that is the horse’s gastrointestinal tract can make a horse prone to colic due to coastal hay impactions.  These impactions like to occur in the small intestine of the horse where it narrows from a larger tube-like structure to a smaller tube-like structure.  The fine stalks of hay essentially layer on top of each other like a box of spaghetti and form these impactions.  If you have ever seen a horse with a coastal hay impaction, then you know, it is not pretty.  They get very painful and often require hospitalization, intravenous fluids and heavy sedation to recover.  Some coastal hay impactions can only be corrected with colic surgery.

 I promise I am not trying to scare you away from feeding coastal/Bermuda or tifton 85 hay. They are perfectly good hays to feed, and as you know, I am here to calm your fears.  If you elect to feed coastal/Bermuda hay or tifton 85, you can decrease the risk of colic by adding in just a small amount of alfalfa or peanut hay each day.  As little as 1/4-1/2 flake of alfalfa or peanut hay each day will suffice.  Soaked alfalfa cube or pellets are also an excellent option and provide a win-win situation because you have to soak them in water, so your horse will be getting the alfalfa he needs and you’ll be forcing him to consume water without him even knowing it.  See, you can lead a horse to water and make him drink, you just have to add alfalfa to it.

 Remember, before changing your horse’s feeding routine, please consult with one of my docs. They will be happy to help you determine the best hay for your horse at this stage in his life and will help you develop an appropriate feeding regime based on your horse’s lifestyle. Nutrition is the most important part of keeping a healthy horse (and cat) so make sure you are setting them up for success!

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. Don’t forget the humans have a great podcast that they put out weekly. Take a listen & then sign up. They cover all kinds of topics and have some pretty cool guest speakers too.

There’s a new doc around my clinic and she’s always going around “adjusting” horses and bending them in weird ways. I was purr-plexed, so I had to do a little research to get to the bottom of what’s going on at my clinic. Turns out they’re treating horses with Equine Medical Manipulation. It’s called Chiropractic when it’s done on humans, but for horses, my Docs call it EMM. Same thing basically.

Personally, I spend 23 hours a day laying around, but a lot of horses have jobs to do. Joint problems can really get in the way of their work. When the joints malfunction, it affects the neurological balance, and can cause your horse to have muscle or skeletal pain, muscle tension and restricted joint motion. The goal of Equine Medical Manipulation is to improve the mobility and function of the joints, reduce the pain your horse may have, and ease muscle tension.

What does it look like when my Doc does an EMM evaluation? She looks at the horse’s posture and how he moves, then does a whole lot of poking and prodding to feel the joints through their range of motion. She feels for muscles that are tight and she checks the horse’s flexibility. She can tell from all that what joints aren’t working like they’re supposed to. It takes about an hour and the horses usually get more and more relaxed as it goes on. Most horses will show their approval during the adjustment. They may lick and chew, take deep breaths, or shake their head around after a particularly good release of tension. I think the horses should just try purring, but my Doc says they don’t know how and the licking is just as good. Anyway, the horses look like they really like the adjustment. I tried to get the Doc to give me an adjustment by weaving around her ankles and between her legs, but she doesn’t seem to get my message.

What does EMM treat?

EMM treatment doesn’t replace traditional veterinary medicine, but it can give my Doc an additional way to diagnose and treat a variety of musculoskeletal problems. Here are some things it’s useful for.

• Treating chronic musculoskeletal problems
• Treating acute problems such as tension or stiffness

• Treating prophylactically to maintain fitness and performance, whether your horse is a sport horse or a weekend warrior
• Maintaining comfort in older horses

The number of EMM sessions your horse needs depends on the condition being treated, how long the problem has been going on, and his age. Conditions that have been going on for a long time usually require more sessions and newer conditions can require fewer sessions.

Mythbusters!

Let’s talk about things that get my fur in a knot…some misconceptions about Equine Medical Manipulation.

• The bones aren’t “out”. You’ve got to be kitten me! Can you see the bone sticking out of the horse? Is it on the ground with your dog chewing on it? (If it is, you have a whole other problem) If not, the bone is not out. It’s still in! So, let’s stop saying things like that. My Doc will talk about “restrictions”, she won’t say things like “his hip is out”. What really happens is that reduced joint mobility causes negative affects to the joint itself, the nervous system, and the muscles and tendons surrounding the joint. These things lead to your horse having pain, abnormal posture, or poorly coordinated movement.

• They’re not cracking anything. Cracking would actually be really bad! If I knocked your favorite coffee cup off the counter (again) and cracked it, would you be happy about that? What my Doc does is clear the restrictions around a “motion unit”, which is the bones of the joint and the soft tissues that surround them. That means she does a manipulation to help the bones, muscles, and other stuff move the way they are supposed to. Sometimes, you hear an audible sound when air pressure in the joint is released.

• You don’t need a lot of force to adjust a horse. It shouldn’t look dramatic. In fact, good EMM looks kinda boring. Like the horse is usually falling asleep by the end of it, and I’d be ready for a cat nap too. The adjustments are called “high velocity, low amplitude” which means they are quick and precise, not rough. They are done in a very specific location at a specific angle. It takes a lot of training to learn this. That’s why you should be careful who you hire to adjust your horse.

Would EMM be good for your horse?

So how do you know if your horse could benefit from Equine Medical Manipulation? Horses can show lots of signs that indicate pain or discomfort. These can include reduced performance, incoordination or uneven gait rhythm, poor attitude, tense muscles, abnormal posture, pinning the ears when saddled or mounted, hollowing the back, swishing the tail, behavior changes, sensitivity to touch, stiffness when bending, muscle wasting, decreased stride length, difficulty engaging the hindquarters, pulling against one rein, lack of flexibility, difficulty flexing the poll, difficulty with collected gaits, lateral movements, or turning, and bucking.

One really common thing my Doc sees is tension lines in the neck. Horses should have smooth necks, even the really well muscled horses. If your horse’s neck has creases in the muscle, that’s a sign of a serious muscle spasm and it’s definitely time to call my Doc!

Wow, that’s a long list. Horses really can be annoying. But purrhaps they’re not actually being jerks. Unlike us cats, horses don’t usually act like jerks just for fun – they’re not that creative. Sometimes they just hurt and don’t know how to tell us. When they act up, there is usually a reason. It may be a training issue, but pretty frequently bad behavior is due to pain or discomfort.

So if your horse is having a problem, or if you want to stay on top of their comfort before issues arise, ask your Doc about whether an Equine Medical Manipulation evaluation could help.

Until next week,

 ~Tony

P.S. Don’t forget..the humans are busy creating podcasts and YouTube videos, so make sure you check those out. Our next seminar is coming up on Thursday June 25th at 6:30 PM..all about Acupuncture & EMM! Please remember to wear your mask, I would hate to miss out on any tummy rubs!