Cat Cohabitation

Cat Cohabitation

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wonderful edition of Whinny’s Wisdoms! One of these days the blog will actually be about mice (the very coolest species), but today, we’re talking about maybe the second coolest: cats. Specifically, cat cohabitation.

This probably won’t surprise you, but 40-70% of cat homes across the world have multiple cats. It’s easy to want to collect them once you see how warm and fuzzy they are. But there can absolutely be issues with welfare and stress if multi-cat homes are not managed properly. You know what I’m squeaking about: fighting, spraying, scratching up the furniture, even medical issues like urinary blockage or diarrhea.

More important than single cat vs multi cat are probably handling and husbandry styles, environmental disruption, socialization history of cats towards humans and other cats, and social stability of cat groups.

Most of you know we have a new Clinic Cat, Wednesday, who has been with us for a few months—I’ve been showing her the ropes—but if you’ve been to the clinic recently you may have also seen a little fluffball kitten who is starting to make his name known. Pugsley is the newest member of Springhill Equine, and is in Clinic Cat Bootcamp at the moment.

Our team has been careful to make the transition to cohabitation a peaceful one for our supurrrvisors, so you could say I’m just the expert you need!

Key Information and Tips

Always have one more litter box than the number of cats, and I’ll clarify that that should mean litter box location. Think about it: there’s still a line for the single bathroom in the stadium whether there’s one stall or ten, but if you have two to three bathrooms on different sides of the stadium then you don’t have to stand in line next to your class rival.

It should go without saying, but there also needs to be at least one food bowl per cat. Cats are big resource guarders as a species (I just try not to be the resource, you know what I mean?) so limiting the places and sources of their food is just asking for argument.

Most cats need and want vertical space in their household. Think about cat “highways” throughout the house—remember the Floor is Lava game? There should also be hiding spots for your kitties, but try to limit possible cornering zones, especially if you have a more forward cat and a more introverted one. This amazing cat wall by Catastrophicreations.com might be an extreme example of creating cat spaces, but you might be able get some ideas from it.

So you’re going to bring a new cat into the home? Well, first impressions are most important, so make sure to plan the introduction and think about potential avenues for trouble. The new cat needs their own space that the current tenants don’t have access to for a bit. Having a safe space of their own not only limits the chance for conflict but also lets them process the new smells and sounds of their home. As they spend time there and you go between their area and the rest of your home, that new smell will be spread around so your old cats “catch wind” of their new friend. You can also do things to swap scents—trading bedding or toys to start, and then eventually even swapping rooms for a spell. This will allow both old and new cats private time to process each other’s presence before meeting… like reading a resume before interviewing someone.

Speaking of smell, I’m sure you’ve heard me talk before about pheromone products. Feliway is the synthetic version of the pheromone cats secrete from their cheeks when they rub all over you and the corners of doorways and walls. That pheromone can only be smelled by them, but basically marks an area as “safe.” Well, they’ve also created a Felway Multicat which works by acting like a mother cat saying “there, there, my angels, get along now.”

CLICK HERE to order Feliway direct from our Amazon Storefront!

Of course, eventually your old and new cats have to meet, unless you plan to keep a whole separate apartment for your new cat, but that’s when questions come up so…

The first time your cats see each other should not be a surprise to either of them, and should always be safe for both. You can do this through a pet gate, sliding glass door, or just the crack of a door. It’s better to have multiple short, safe, uneventful interactions to start. This will build a neutral to positive association before they have prolonged contact with each other.

Once your cats have smelled, heard, and seen each other a few times, it’s time for them to share space. If you have multiple resident cats, it’s often best to introduce them to the new cat on an individual basis. Only allow them to share space if there’s no signs of aggression or fear from either side.

Whinny’s Wisdom: This cat is definitely afraid, and may turn aggressive. The ears are flattened, pupils dilated, and body is tucked with the tail under. Do not proceed with introductions if either cat looks like this!

It can take many months before a new cat fully integrates into a household. There are a lot of factors at play, and some cats may never become friends, but as long as they can coexist peacefully, it’s a win. Don’t ever try to force closeness or cuddles on cats who don’t want it—you’re likely to get claws!

You know your resident cats best; be sure to take their personalities in mind before bringing a new cat or kitten into the home. While I get to see all kinds in my role as Official Clinic Mouse for Springhill Equine and Companion Animal Clinic, most pets spend 99% of their time in their home with only the creatures that live there. New introductions can be scary or intimidating, and responses aren’t always predictable.

As always, if you have questions about bringing a new cat into your home, or about improving the mingling of your current crew, talk to our team of certified Cat People and we can give you some tips! And Dr. Speziok is always happy to see your pets for behavior consults, just call to schedule.

Stay Friendly,

Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t poked around my website in a while, you might want to take a minute to check it out! There are a ton of resources on here besides my amazing blog. We have books, a huge video library, a podcast, links to social media, upcoming events, and more!

 

 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello one and all, welcome back to another thrilling set of wisdoms by yours truly! Mice suffer from heat stress at temperatures above 85F so you could say I’ve been in a constant state of stress for the last few months. I don’t sweat naturally, but I can’t imagine not being able to pant to dissipate my heat. Our equine friends rely on sweating to cool themselves off, but sometimes they seem to lose that ability, and that is nothing but stress to the horses, their owners, and their doctors!

Normal horses can and do produce twice as much sweat per square inch of skin than you humans, and that can equate to 5-8 GALLONS of sweat per day in very hot weather or with moderate exercise. Have you noticed that your horse’s sweat often looks white and frothy? They have unique apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids, causing that “lathered up” look. As the water in sweat evaporates, it cools the horse down by transferring heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5°F – about the same as mine! That temperature goes up during exercise but sweat helps it return to normal quickly.

 Whinny’s Wisdom: 70% of a horse’s heat regulation is through sweating.

Horses that can’t sweat fully have a very hard time cooling off. This difficulty sweating is called anhidrosis–a term as old as time, or at least as old as the 1700’s, according to the Oxford English Dictionary. Horses with anhidrosis might sweat less than normal, only in patches, or not at all. They tend to breathe harder and faster than a normal horse both at rest and during exercise.

 The truth is, as smart as veterinarians are (and mine are the best!), they don’t completely understand why some horses stop sweating. Most of the research is being done by really smart people right here in Gainesville at the University of Florida. That’s because horses that live in the very hottest places seem most likely to be affected. The possible explanations include overstimulation of the sweat glands, problems in the signaling pathway, or decreased numbers and sensitivity of receptors. For a fun in the sun Florida double whammy, high humidity makes what sweating that does happen less effective because of the lack of evaporation. As my paws fly across this keyboard, the humidity outside is a whopping 92%!!

Anhidrosis can be an insidious change in a horse that has lived in Florida their whole lives, or it can be a sudden shift for a horse that has just moved here or is traveling to the sunshine state to compete or retire. 

 So, if your horse is the only one at the barn not sweating buckets in this Florida heat, pay attention! Here are some things to watch out for:

– Dry, clean coat after work or when coming in from daytime turnout

– Fast or labored breathing, especially when not working

– Flared nostrils

– Low energy or fatigue

– Slow cooling down after exercise

– Increased body temperature (especially serious if over 104°F)

– Seeking and staying in the shade, even if food is elsewhere

– Reduced eating or drinking

– Chronic cases: dry, itchy, or flaky skin, sometimes with hair loss

 Whinny’s Wisdom: If you own horses, you absolutely must have a reliable thermometer to take their temperature. And you should practice with your horse so they are used to the process. It’s often the first thing you’ll be asked on the phone when you call about a sick horse.

If your horse is a non-sweater, what can you do? I can recommend some lovely lemming hotels in the arctic, but you may not be inclined to up and move just yet. Here are some other strategies.

 Electrolyte Supplements

 These can support normal sweating and overall health, especially in summer. One AC and Platinum Refresh are popular options. They provide essential electrolytes, amino acids, and vitamins. While the exact mechanism by which these supplements aid anhidrosis is not fully understood, their components are known to support bodily functions related to sweating. The success of these supplements can vary from horse to horse, likely due to individual differences in physiology and the underlying causes of anhidrosis.

 Chinese Herbal Therapy and Acupuncture

 At Springhill Equine, we’ve found these methods can be quite successful in some cases. Some of our docs’ very best summer success sweating stories have come from acupuncture patients of Dr. Carter and Dr. Yorke! We all need a little push to get to work sometimes, and it seems those equine sweat glands respond to a bit of needling!

 Cooling Barns and Stalls

 Keeping your barn and stalls cool is key. Use fans to circulate air and create a breeze. Ceiling fans, box fans (outdoor rated, of course!), and industrial fans all help. Misters or fogging systems can reduce heat through evaporation. Make sure the barn is well-ventilated by opening doors and windows. Using reflective or light-colored roofing materials can deflect sunlight and reduce heat absorption.

 Providing Shade in Pastures

 Provide ample shade in pastures. Trees offer natural shade, but if you don’t have enough, install shade structures or shelters. These can be pole barns, run-in sheds, or tarps stretched between posts. Ensure the shade is large enough for multiple horses to use without crowding, and place water sources nearby to encourage hydration.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 Emergency Cooling Measures

 It’s better to prevent overheating, but if it happens, here are some steps to follow:

– Move your horse to the shade.

– Hose them down with cool water or sponge them with ice water.

– Use portable fans.

– Offer cold water to drink.

– Take their temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate.

– Call the vet!

 Remember, you may not suffer from anhidrosis yourself, but you need to keep cool too! Drink water, wear sunscreen, stay in the shade, and take lots of breaks when you’re at the barn with your horses this summer. There’s a good human.

Until next week,

 Whinny

 P.S. Do you want to learn more about horses? Check out the podcast my humans produce! It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth and you can check it out right here on my website, or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello again, wonderful pet parents! It’s Whinny here, your friendly clinic mouse, back with more squeaky wisdom. We’re talking today about vaccines, the tiny but mighty protectors that can make all the difference in your pet’s life. We’ll dive into the essentials first, then add a little extra cheddar to the mix with lifestyle vaccines! These vaccines are just as important, especially if your pets like to socialize or explore the great outdoors. Let’s dive in, starting with how we protect the pooches.

Companion Animal Clinic at Springhill Equine

Dogs

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Let’s start with the big one—rabies. This vaccine is a non-negotiable for your dog’s health and safety. Rabies is a deadly virus that can affect all mammals (yep, even me!), and once symptoms appear, there’s no cure. The good news? A simple rabies vaccine protects your dog—and helps protect the people and other pets around them too. This is why rabies vaccination is legally required in most areas.

Distemper/Parvo Combo (DHPP): 

Now, let’s talk about the distemper/parvo combo, often bundled together with a few other important vaccines. Distemper is a highly contagious viral disease that can cause serious respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurological problems. Parvo, on the other paw, is a nasty virus that affects the intestines and can be deadly, especially for puppies. This combo vaccine also protects against adenovirus (which can lead to hepatitis) and parainfluenza (a respiratory virus). It’s like giving your dog a superhero cape, helping them fight off multiple villains with one shot!

Now, let’s talk lifestyle vaccines—these are key for dogs who like to sniff, play, and explore the world around them.

Bordetella (Kennel Cough):

Does your dog like to meet new friends, visit dog parks, or stay at kennels? If so, Bordetella is a must. This vaccine protects against kennel cough, a highly contagious respiratory infection that spreads like gossip at a cheese party. It’s a mucosal vaccine, meaning it goes right into the nose or mouth, where it can work its magic. And just like your dog’s social calendar, it needs to be updated yearly.

Canine Influenza:

For pups who mingle with other dogs, canine influenza is another important vaccine. This flu can spread quickly in places like doggy daycares or boarding facilities, causing a serious cough, fever, and fatigue. If your dog is a regular at these spots, this yearly vaccine will help keep them safe and sound.

Leptospirosis: 

Now, here’s one that’s especially important for our outdoor adventurers. Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that’s common in our area and can be spread through contaminated water or soil—yikes! If your dog loves romping around in parks, on properties, or near water, this vaccine is a must. It helps protect them from this potentially serious disease.

Lyme Disease:

Lyme disease is spread by ticks and is more common in certain areas. While it’s not a big concern in the Southeast, if your dog is a frequent traveler, especially to northern regions, this vaccine could be a lifesaver. It’s all about being prepared, just in case your pup decides to take a road trip.

Cats

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Just like our canine companions, cats need protection from rabies too. Whether your feline friend is a homebody or a neighborhood explorer, rabies vaccination is essential. It’s a life-saving vaccine that ensures your kitty stays safe and that you’re complying with local laws.

FVRCP Combo:

Now, for the feline trio of protection—the FVRCP combo. This vaccine covers three big threats to cats: Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (fancy term for feline herpesvirus), Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper). Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus cause upper respiratory issues, which can make your cat feel really crummy, while Panleukopenia is a serious virus that affects the blood cells and can be deadly. The FVRCP combo is like the feline version of a super-suit, keeping them safe from these dangerous diseases.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

And now, onto the lifestyle vaccine for our fabulous felines.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV): 

This is the one to consider if your cat loves to explore the outdoors or hang out with other cats. Feline leukemia is a virus that can weaken a cat’s immune system and lead to serious health issues. Every kitten should start with a series of FeLV vaccines to build their initial immunity. After that, if your cat is indoor/outdoor or has contact with cats who are FeLV positive, they’ll need this vaccine yearly to stay protected.

Why Vaccines (and Vets) Matter 🩺

Remember, it’s not just about getting vaccines; it’s about making sure they’re the right ones for your pet’s lifestyle. That’s where your veterinarian comes in! When you bring your furry friend in—or have my docs out for a home visit!—for their vaccines, they’re also getting a full health check-up. We will get down to brass tacks…err, borzoi tabbies…to help you decide which vaccines are necessary based on your pet’s activities and risks, keeping them safe and sound. And, we’ll plan that schedule based on your pet’s age—puppies and kittens have a bit of extra work to do to ramp up their initial protection! There’s a schedule and we must stick to it! So, we’ll see your new addition often for the first few months to ensure we prime their immune system the right way. These frequent visits are also the very best way to monitor growth, discuss training and milestones, and ensure your pets are kept on the right size and type of prevention as they grow.  

The Annual Exam: A Must-Do!

Vaccines are vital, but so is that all-important annual exam. This is when your vet gets to give your pet a thorough once-over, catching any issues early and ensuring they’re in tip-top shape. It’s like a yearly spa day—but with fewer bubbles and more belly rubs!

Remember: we’re all about keeping your pets safe, healthy, and ready for all their adventures—whether that’s a romp in the park, a snuggle on the couch, or a dash through the fields.

Until next time, keep those tails wagging and whiskers twitching!

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your canine and feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline, or your herd of rambunctuous dogs. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Orphaned Kitten Care

Orphaned Kitten Care

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

From Squeaks to Shrieks: A Clinic Mouse’s Guide to Kitten Season

Hey everybody, Whinny the Clinic Mouse here! Spring came and went, as it does, and brought with it the annual phenomenon known as “kitten season.” During this time, feline fertility peaks, leading to a surge in the number of cat mothers giving birth. While this can be heartwarming, it can also be heartbreaking when there are orphan kittens in need of care. Animal shelters are often overflowing at this time of year as well, which means there isn’t always a place for these pip-squeaks to go. Kittens are made cute, so they can get people to do what they want and take them in (mice are way cuter in my humble opinion, but you don’t see people busting down doors to take us into their homes). Anyway…

Mother cats are typically incredibly dedicated caregivers, and if you find a healthy, well-fed group of kittens nestled together somewhere, they are probably under the jurisdiction of an adult cat, and take it from me, you don’t want to mess with them! However, if the kittens are alone, crying, appear malnourished, or injured, then they may be orphaned and will need your intervention.

If you know of a shelter or kitten rescue group with availability, definitely bring any sickly kittens there, but if that’s not an option, let me lead you down the whisker-trail of taking care of orphaned kittens.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Delicate Art of Orphaned Kitten Care

Caring for orphaned kittens is a significant commitment that requires knowledge, patience, and a good deal of love. Their needs will vary depending on their age, but some general principles apply.

Warmth is Crucial: Newborn kittens are unable to regulate their body temperature and rely on their mother’s warmth for survival. If you’ve taken in orphaned kittens, you must create a cozy nest box lined with soft towels and provide external heat. You can use a heating pad set on low (covered with a towel) to maintain a temperature around 99 degrees Fahrenheit. This mimics the warmth they would receive from their mother. There is also a product called Snuggle Safe that heats up in the microwave and stays warm for a few hours without the risk of electrical issues. There should be an area of the box that does not have a heating element under it so the kittens can move away from it if they need to.

Feeding Time: Orphaned kittens require frequent feedings with a kitten-specific formula. Kittens younger than 1 week need food about every 2-3 hours. They are not able to sustain themselves overnight. It’s very important to mix the formula exactly as the product directs, and to warm it to body temperature prior to feeding. You can test it on the inside of your paw—whoops, I mean wrist—to check that it’s not too warm. Never feed kittens on their back, they should be on their stomach and should be actively swallowing.

Whinny Wisdom: Squeezing or syringing milk into their mouth is not ok! You’re more likely to cause them to inhale it. 

Elimination Stimulation: Unlike older kittens, newborns cannot eliminate waste on their own. The mother cat would typically lick their genitals to stimulate urination and defecation. You can mimic this process by gently rubbing the kitten’s genital area with a warm, damp cotton ball, piece of gauze, or washcloth after each feeding. Continue until elimination occurs. Don’t skip this step, and if you’re too squeamish for it, well, that’s when you’d call my docs or other professionals, because to raise kittens, you have to be able to handle the gross and the cute!

Companion Animal Care at Springhill Equine

A Gradual Transition

As the kittens mature, their needs will evolve. Here’s a breakdown of care by age group:

  • Newborn to 4 Weeks Old: These fragile kittens require constant care, including bottle-feeding every few hours, warmth regulation, and elimination stimulation. Their eyes may be closed or partially open, and they won’t be able to walk or play.
  • 4 to 8 Weeks Old: Kittens in this age group can start lapping formula from a shallow dish. You can introduce moistened kitten food at this stage, but bottle-feeding may still be necessary to ensure they get enough calories. Their eyes will be open, and they’ll begin to explore their surroundings.
  • 8 to 12 Weeks Old: By this age, kittens can typically be weaned off formula and eat moistened kitten food. However, monitor their weight gain and continue bottle-feeding if needed. These playful kittens will be more active and can begin litter box training.

Beyond the Basics

While providing warmth, food, and elimination assistance are crucial, orphaned kittens also require socialization and enrichment. Handle them gently and regularly to get them accustomed to human contact. Provide them with safe toys to play with and stimulate their natural instincts. If you have a single orphan kitten, you’ll need to teach them to play safely and learn to be independent as they age. Bottle babies are notorious for becoming spoiled rotten adult cats. They may be small, but their meows pack a punch! Honestly, the decibel level rivals a rock concert sometimes. Guess I need to invest in some earplugs…or maybe some cheese…for this kitten season. Did I mention that we have a bottle baby kitten here at the Clinic? Wednesday is not thrilled about it. Anyway.

Remember, Prevention is Key

The overwhelming number of orphaned kittens during kitten season should remind you of the importance of spaying and neutering your cats. This routine surgery is the single most effective way to prevent unwanted litters and their associated challenges. Spaying and neutering also has numerous health benefits for your feline companions.

The Rewarding Journey of Kitten Care

Helping orphaned kittens is a demanding yet incredibly rewarding experience. By providing them with the necessary care and love, you’ll be giving them a fighting chance at a happy and healthy life. Remember, even small actions can make a big difference for these vulnerable creatures. So, this kitten season, consider opening your heart and maybe even your home to a furry little orphan in need. Remember, your veterinarian is your best partner for helping all animals, but especially the tiniest of the bunch! Another resource our clinic recommends all the time to foster kitten parents is this website:

www.kittenlady.org

There, you will find lots of helpful diagrams, pictures, and videos for raising kittens!

Whinny Wisdom: Keep an eye out for “kitten season” awareness campaigns and fundraising efforts in your area. These initiatives are crucial in supporting shelters and rescue organizations that care for orphaned kittens. Consider volunteering your time or making a donation to contribute to their lifesaving work.

Well, that’s it for this week. Now that Pugsly, our new kitten here at the Clinic, is learning to eat dry food, I’m going to see if I can sneak a bite.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite cat vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
Body Condition Score in Horses

Body Condition Score in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here! I recently wrote a blog on how to estimate your horse’s weight using a tape measure and an easy calculation. Well today I’m adding on to that with a related topic, body condition scoring! Getting an estimate of the actual weight is great, since you can monitor the trends of weight gain or loss and be more accurate in dosing of medications such as dewormers. But how do you know if that weight is healthy and correct for him? My docs use a visual scoring system called the body condition score.

The body condition score (BCS) allows you to assess whether your horse is too thin, too fat, or just right. The BCS ranges from 1 to 9, with 1 being extremely thin and 9 being extremely fat. Your horse can develop health problems if he is too far in either direction! The scores in the middle – 4, 5, and 6 – are the moderate weights and the healthiest place for your horse to be.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

To score your horse, all you need are your eyes and your hands. You’re going to look at and feel six areas where horses store fat – his neck, withers, back, tail head, ribs, and behind the shoulder. Most of these terms are pretty obvious but a couple new terms for you may be the spinous processes (the part of back vertebrae that projects upwards to form the bumps on the top of his spine) and the transverse processes (the part of the vertebrae that projects out to the side). You will see these areas best on a horse that is too thin.  Here are the descriptions and examples of horses in various body conditions.

Body condition score 1

  • This horse is emaciated and in critical condition. No fat can be felt. His ribs, tailhead, hips, pelvic bones, and the bones of his spine (spinous processes and transverse processes) are prominent. The bones of his withers, shoulders and neck are easily noticed. 

Body condition score 2

  • An extremely thin horse. There is a very small amount of fat covering the base of the spinous processes. The transverse processes of the lower back can be felt but are slightly rounded. The spinous processes, ribs, tailhead, hip joints, and pelvic bones are prominent. The withers, shoulders and neck structure are faintly discernable.

Body condition score 3

  • A thin horse without enough body fat to be healthy. There is fat buildup about halfway up the spinous processes but they are easily discernable. The transverse processes can’t be felt. Slight fat covers the ribs but you can still easily see them. The tailhead is prominent but individual vertebrae can’t be seen. The hip joints appear rounded but are easily discernable. The pelvic bones are not distinguishable. The withers, shoulders and neck are thin. 

Body condition score 4

  • A mildly thin horse. Sometimes a very fit athlete like a racehorse or endurance horse can be a BCS of 4. He is lean but in good condition. There is a slight ridge along the back and the faint outline of ribs are discernable. The tailhead prominence depends on the horse’s conformation, but fat can be felt around it. The hip joints not discernable. The withers, shoulders and neck are not obviously thin.

Body condition score 5

  • For most horses this is the ideal body condition. The back is level, without either a ridge of backbone or a crease down the back. The ribs can be felt if you lightly press the horse’s sides but can’t be seen. The fat around the tailhead feels a bit spongy. The withers are round over the spinous processes. The shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body.

Body condition score 6

  • This is a mildly overweight or fleshy horse. Broodmares have an improved chance of getting pregnant at a BCS of 6. There may be a slight crease down the center of the back. The fat over the ribs and tailhead feels spongy and soft. There are small fat deposits behind the shoulders and along the sides of neck and withers.

Body condition score 7

  • This is an overweight horse. There may be a moderate crease down the back. There is more fat covering the ribs, tailhead, neck, and shoulders. Individual ribs can be felt if you press a bit, but there is noticeable filling between the ribs with fat. The fat around the tailhead is soft. There is fat deposited along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. This horse’s weight is concerning for causing negative health effects.

Body condition score 8

  • This is a very overweight horse and is well into the danger zone for laminitis. There is a crease (aka the rain gutter!) down the back and it is difficult to feel the ribs. The fat around the tailhead is very soft. The areas along the withers and behind the shoulder are filled with fat. There is noticeable thickening of the neck. There is fat deposited along the inner thighs.

Body condition score 9

  • This is an extremely overweight, or obese horse. There is an obvious crease down back. Patches of fat appear over the ribs. There is bulging fat around the tailhead, along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. The flank is filled with fat.

Be sure to ask my docs about your horse’s body condition score when you next see them for wellness exams!

Until next week!

~Whinny

P.S. Wanna learn more about body condition score? Check out this video my humans made! They will guide you through the process of assessing your horse, step by step! 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Poisonous Plants and Horses

Poisonous Plants and Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Whinny’s Wisdom: A Field Mouse’s Perspective on Horse-Killing Weeds

Hey there, fellow creatures of the field! Whinny here, a curious little field mouse with a nose for adventure (and sometimes, trouble). Today, I want to talk about something important for any horse that gets turnout: poisonous plants!

You see, us field mice have a pretty good idea of what’s safe and what’s not safe to nibble on. But horses, with their big noses, curious ways, and knack for self-harm, can sometimes get into trouble with plants that look harmless but are actually quite poisonous. So, I’m here to share some of the most common culprits in North America, straight from the perspective of a tiny, knowledgeable rodent.

The Pretty, But Deadly: Azaleas and Rhododendrons

These flowering shrubs are a sight to behold, with their vibrant blooms in shades of pink, purple, and white. Here in North Central Florida they’re everywhere. But don’t let their beauty fool you! All parts of azaleas and rhododendrons are toxic to horses, containing a nasty toxin called grayanotoxin. If your horse ingests even a small amount, it can cause severe problems like:

* Excessive drooling

* Loss of appetite

* Colic

* Muscle weakness

* Abnormal heart rhythm

* Coma

* Death

The Tall and Toxic: Red Maple Trees

Red maples are majestic trees that add a touch of autumn splendor to the landscape. However, their leaves, bark, and twigs contain a toxin called gallic acid, which can be harmful to horses. If your horse munches on these parts, especially in the fall when the leaves are wilted or dry, it can lead to:

* Severe anemia

* Colic

* Muscle weakness

* Kidney damage

The Unassuming Threat: Black Walnut Trees

These common trees might seem harmless, but their leaves, nuts, and bark contain a toxin called juglone. This nasty stuff can cause problems for horses, including:

* Laminitis

* Colic

* Diarrhea

* Skin irritation

The Bitter Surprise: Milkweed

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While most horses avoid this plant due to its bitter taste, it’s important to be aware of its potential dangers. Milkweed contains a toxin that can cause serious problems if ingested, such as:

* Muscle weakness

* Seizures

* Respiratory difficulties

* Coma

* Death

The Hidden Danger: Poison Hemlock

This plant might look like harmless parsley, but it’s one of the most poisonous plants in North America. All parts of poison hemlock are toxic, and even a small amount can be fatal to horses. Branches falling into a water source can contaminate the water as well! Symptoms of poisoning include:

* Muscle tremors

* Convulsions

* Respiratory failure

* Death

Keeping Your Horses Safe: A Field Mouse’s Tips

Now, I know what you’re thinking: “Whinny, this is scary! How can I keep my horse safe from these sneaky plants?” Don’t worry, my friends, I’ve got some tips for you:

Know your pasture: Regularly inspect your pasture for any of the plants mentioned above. If you find them, remove them immediately. If in doubt, contact the local County Extension Service. It’s free and they are incredibly knowledgeable!

Provide good quality hay: Horses who are well-fed are less likely to nibble on potentially harmful plants.

Be aware of seasonal changes: Some plants become more toxic at certain times of the year, like red maples in the fall.

Contact my Doctors immediately: If you suspect your horse has ingested a poisonous plant, don’t hesitate to seek veterinary help. Time is of the essence in these situations.

Remember, knowledge is power! By being aware of the dangers lurking in your fields and pastures, you can keep your horses safe and healthy. And if you ever see a curious field mouse like me, don’t shoo me away! I might just have some helpful insights about the sneaky plants hiding in plain sight.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you’d like to watch an entire Seminar video about poisonous plants put on by our local extension office, CLICK HERE. It’s a great presentation from a few years ago, very entertaining and very educational!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Twins in Horses: Risks and Management

Twins in Horses: Risks and Management

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi there! It’s Winnie the Clinic Mouse, and guess what? I’m a quintuplet, which means I have four siblings who were born at the same time as me! It’s quite a busy and exciting life, having so many siblings. But that’s not all—one of our veterinarians, Dr. Carter, is a twin! It’s fascinating to see how different species experience multiple births!

In the world of mammals, many of us can have multiple babies at once. For mice like me, having a bunch of siblings born together is pretty normal. But for horses, it’s a whole different story. While some mammals handle multiple births with ease, twin pregnancies in horses can be very dangerous.

Causes of Twin Pregnancies

Twin pregnancies in horses occur when two ova are fertilized simultaneously. This happens when a mare double ovulates or releases two eggs. While this may sound like an advantage for breeding, it often leads to complications.

Risks Associated with Twin Pregnancies

The main risks of twin pregnancies in horses include:

  • Abortion: The majority of twin pregnancies end in early embryonic loss. The limited space and nutrient availability within the uterus make it challenging for both embryos to survive.
  • Dystocia (difficult birth): If the pregnancy continues to term, the mare is at a higher risk of dystocia, which can endanger both the mare and the foal.
  • Abnormal Foals: Even if twins are carried to term, they are often born weak and underdeveloped due to the shared resources in the womb.
  • Mare Health Issues: The mare can suffer from complications such as retained placenta, which can lead to severe infections.

Diagnosing Twin Pregnancies

  • Early detection of twin pregnancies is crucial. This is why the 14 day pregnancy check after breeding is so important. At this time, we can diagnose and manage twin pregnancies.
  • Ultrasound Scanning: A veterinarian can perform an ultrasound around 14 to 16 days post-ovulation to detect multiple embryos. If twins are identified, steps can be taken early to manage the situation.

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Management of Twin Pregnancies

Once twins are detected, it is highly recommended that the mare does not continue to carry both embryos and that one embryo is removed, or the pregnancy is terminated due to the high risk to the mare and foals in twin pregnancies.

  • Selective Reduction: This is the most common and effective method. One embryo is manually reduced via ultrasound guidance, allowing the remaining embryo a better chance to develop normally.

Twin pregnancies in horses present significant challenges and risks, but with early detection and appropriate management, these risks can be mitigated. Understanding and managing twin pregnancies effectively can lead to successful breeding outcomes, despite the inherent difficulties. If you plan on breeding your mare, make sure you follow the recommended pre- and post-breeding appointment plan from your veterinarian. It’s a lot of appointments, but for very good reason!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you listened to all of the breeding episodes on my Doc’s podcast? They have a number of different episodes about various aspects of breeding, and you won’t want to miss any of them! You can find them over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe to Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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How to Weigh Your Horse

How to Weigh Your Horse

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi everyone, Whinny here! Horses are high maintenance creatures, have you noticed? They require a careful eye to make sure they stay healthy and in good condition. One of the ways you horse owners can monitor your horse’s health is to keep track of his weight.

Knowing how much your horse weighs will help you keep an eye on weight gain and weight loss through the seasons, so you can adjust his feed accordingly. If he is overweight, you probably know that he is at risk of developing laminitis – a serious concern. If he is underweight, you’ll have to figure out why. That could mean his diet needs to be changed, his teeth need attention, his worm load is too high, or several other health reasons. Keeping track of weight changes and making small adjustments early is definitely better than waiting until there are big, obvious health problems. It’s also important to know your horse’s weight so you can give medications such as dewormer correctly. You don’t want to overdose or underdose him.

But how to weight him? Unfortunately, you can’t just ask your horse to step on the bathroom scale. The good news is that there is an easy measurement you can do at home to get a pretty darn accurate weight for your horse. You may have seen my docs and techs do this when they come out to give your horse his vaccines. You can do it just as easily yourself! It doesn’t require any special equipment, just a flexible tape measure and a calculator (unless you really like long division). A metal tape measure isn’t bendy enough, but a fabric or plastic one with inch markings works great.

Here’s what you do:

  1. Stand your horse on a relatively flat surface. He should be standing “square”, with his legs placed evenly, not stretching one forward or back too much.
  2. Measure around your horse’s heart girth: Holding the “zero” end of the tape, place the other end of the tape over his back behind his withers (about where his mane ends). Reach under his belly and pull the end of the tape under his barrel about where the girth would sit. Bring the tape up to meet the end with the “zero”. The number on the weight tape where the “zero” meets is the heart girth number.
  3. Measure his length: Place the “zero” end of the tape at the point of his shoulder. Measure the length of his body straight back along his side to the crease between his muscles just below the point of his buttock.
  4. Plug your 2 measurements into this formula. Choose the right one based on whether he is an adult, a yearling, or a weanling.

 Adult horse weight in pounds = heart girth x heart girth x length divided by 330. For yearlings, divide by 301. For weanlings, divide by 280.

To make it easier for you to see this in action, here is Dr. Yorke with a video on how to do the measurements!





Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you subscribed to my blog yet? Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know when I write a new one. Just scroll down to the big purple box, put your email address in it, and I’ll email you my blog every Monday, a day before it goes out on social media. No spam, no ads, just the blog! Go on, be a good human! You can do it!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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A Deep Dive Into Hay

A Deep Dive Into Hay

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

A Deep Dive into Hay: Selection, Evaluation, and Storage for Optimal Equine Health

Greetings, esteemed equestrians and discerning horse enthusiasts! Whinny, your resident field mouse investigator, returns with a comprehensive exploration into the world of equine forage – hay. While the average farmyard observer might see just a pile of dried grass, we delve deeper to understand the intricacies of hay selection, evaluation, and storage for optimal horse health. Since hay forms the foundation of a horse’s diet, ensuring its quality through proper management is essential for responsible horse care. 

Deconstructing the Haystack: Grass Species and Nutritional Profiles

Beyond the basic categorization of “hay,” a multitude of grass species exist, each offering a distinct nutritional profile. Let’s dissect some prominent players:

  • Alfalfa: This nitrogen-fixing legume boasts exceptional protein (20-25% crude protein) and calcium content, ideal for supporting growth in foals, pregnant or lactating mares, and performance horses. Alfalfa is low in sugars which can make it a good option for horses prone to issues with sugar. However, because of the high calorie content it should only be a portion of the roughage for overweight horses (pronounced easy keepers). 
  • Timothy: The “gold standard” for many, Timothy hay offers a balanced combination of fiber and moderate protein (10-14% crude protein) levels. This makes it a staple for adult horses in moderate work or maintaining weight. Being a grass hay, sugar content can vary a lot based on conditions at the time of baling.
  • Orchardgrass: An increasingly popular option, Orchardgrass hay provides a balance between fiber and protein (10-15% crude protein) content. This makes it suitable for a wider range of horses, from performance animals requiring sustained energy to those needing weight gain compared to Timothy hay. It’s also palatable and easily digestible. Orchardgrass, much like Timothy, can have highly variable sugar content.
  • Bermudagrass Hay: A warm-season favorite, Bermudagrass hay is known for its high digestibility and fiber content. This makes it well-suited for horses in lighter work or residing in warmer climates, like Florida. It has a lower calorie content than the other three options here so can be a great option for overweight horses.

The Art of Hay Evaluation: A Multi-Sensory Approach

Identifying high-quality hay goes beyond just grabbing a random bale. Studies have shown that touch and smell can readily identify quality hay. Here’s how to transform into a hay evaluation extraordinaire:

  • Visual Inspection: Fresh hay boasts a vibrant color – green for legumes like alfalfa, golden brown for grasses like Timothy or orchardgrass. Avoid hay with excessive dust, signs of mold (indicating moisture damage), or a bleached appearance (signaling sun exposure).

  • Tactile Assessment: Dive in (figuratively, of course!) and feel the hay’s texture. High-quality hay should be pliable and soft, not brittle or dusty. The stems should snap with a slight bend, not crumble.

  • Olfactory Exploration: Engage your nose! Fresh hay should emit a pleasant, grassy aroma. Musty odors point towards spoilage from moisture or mold growth, while a sweet smell might indicate excessive sugar content.

  • Botanical Scrutiny: Keep an eye out for excessive weeds or signs of pests like insects or rodents (ahem, not that I would know anything about that). These can impact the hay’s palatability and potentially harbor contaminants.

Whinny Wisdom: Feeding hay in slow-feed hay nets will keep your horses occupied for longer without increasing their calorie intake, reduce wasted hay significantly, and keep their hay off the ground which will reduce their exposure to environmental contaminants like botulism, EPM, parasites, and more!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hayven Secrets: Storage Strategies for Peak Quality

You’ve sourced the perfect hay – fantastic! But the journey doesn’t end there. Proper storage safeguards quality and prevents spoilage. Here are some expert-level storage tactics:

  • Environmental Control: Location is paramount. Select a dry, well-ventilated space with protection from rain and direct sunlight. Moisture is the archenemy of good hay! Aim for relative humidity below 60% to prevent mold growth. This can be tricky in humid environments like Florida. Buying less hay, so you can quickly rotate stock, can help.

  • Off the Ground: Don’t let your precious hay become a buffet for moisture and hungry critters like yours truly. Store bales on pallets or platforms, allowing for air circulation around them.

  • Bale Management: Consider the practicality of bale size. While large round bales might seem economical, they expose a larger surface area to potential spoilage and require specialized feeders to minimize waste. Small square bales offer greater manageability and reduce waste.

  • First-In, First-Out (FIFO) Implementation: Ensure a steady supply of fresh forage by adhering to the FIFO principle. Use older hay first to maintain a consistent quality for your horses. This principle should be used with everything your trusty steed consumes!

Conclusion: Hay There, Healthy Horses!

By understanding the intricacies of hay selection, evaluation, and storage, you will empower yourself to provide your horses with the optimal fuel for peak health and performance. Remember, a balanced diet starts with high-quality roughage, and a keen eye (and nose!) can make all the difference. Got more hay questions? My esteemed doctors and technicians can give you answers! Give us a call to schedule a nutrition consultation today! 352.472.1620.

Until next week!
~Whinny

P.S. If you want to learn more about equine nutrition, check out this video on my YouTube Channel about different types of feed! It’s something every horse owner needs to understand, just like hay. Make sure you explore my other videos while you’re there!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Foals and Ascarids

Foals and Ascarids

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Spring is moving into summer, the rains are coming, and lots of new foals are running around fields. Some of these frolicking fillies are harboring some extra passengers though…

Let’s wriggle into the world of roundworms, known to smart medically-minded mice like me as ascarids!

What are Ascarids?

Ascarids are small parasitic worms that live in the intestines of horses. They are called roundworms because, well, they have a round shape. These worms can grow to be several inches long and can cause health problems for foals. However, it’s not like foals are out there gobbling up full-sized worms in the grass (though I wouldn’t put it past them!). So let’s go over the lifecycle of these pesky parasites, and how they wind up in our horses.

  1. Egg Production: The life cycle of equine ascarids begins with adult female worms residing in the small intestine of the horse. These fecund females produce large numbers of eggs, which are then shed into the horse’s feces. 
  1. Environmental Contamination: Once the eggs are passed in the feces, they contaminate the environment where the horse lives. This can include pastures, paddocks, or stalls where horses graze or spend time.
  1. Egg Development: In the environment, under suitable conditions of temperature and humidity, the eggs develop and mature over a period of several weeks to become infective larvae. This is dependent on temperature and humidity, but these eggs are quite robust and can often overwinter and remain infective on a pasture into the next foaling season. 
  1. Ingestion: Foals become infected when they inadvertently ingest the infective larvae while grazing, eating contaminated feed or water, or through grooming behaviors where they ingest soil or other environmental material containing the larvae. We all know foals put their mouths on everything, so this part isn’t very hard!
  1. Larval Migration: Once ingested, the eggs hatch and larvae begin hepato-tracheal migration, arriving in the lungs about 1 week post infection. Here, they penetrate the alveoli and bronchioles, where they remain for another 2 weeks before they are coughed up into the pharynx and swallowed to return to the small intestine as more mature larvae. The first intestinal stages appear 3–4 weeks post infection.
  1. Maturation to Adult Worms: Inside the intestines, the immature worms continue to grow and develop into adult worms over the course of several weeks to months. Once mature, they begin producing eggs, completing this crazy, complicated lifecycle and perpetuating the infection.
  1. Egg Shedding: Adult female worms release eggs into the horse’s feces, restarting the cycle by contaminating the environment with new infective eggs.

Symptoms of Ascarid Impactions

 When foals have a lot of ascarids in their intestines, they can actually lead to obstructions. Literally, a road block of worms! This can actually happen with live worms OR with dead worms after the foal has been given a dewormer. This is one of those (many) times when consulting with that veterinarian that you have a great relationship with about the best deworming protocol gives you the best shot at getting things right.

Sometimes even when we do everything right, those poor babies still end up with ascarid impaction. Here’s what that might look like:

– Swollen belly

– Not eating well

– Diarrhea

– Weight loss

– Lethargy

– High heart rate

Preventing The Impaction

There are some things that can be done to help prevent foals from getting infected with ascarids:

– Keep the environment clean: Regularly clean up manure and bedding to reduce the number of worm eggs in the environment.

– Deworming: discuss the protocol with our doctors, but often times they’re going to have you give dewormers every few months in a specific order and dose

– Fecal Egg Counts: if there is any question, just like with adult horses, we take a sample of poop and put it in our fancy machine to tell us how many and what type of parasites we have

– Quarantine new foals: Keep any new animals separate from others until they can be dewormed and checked for worms or other issues by our doctors.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Treating Ascarid Impactions

Here’s the scoop: these worms, when they get stuck, often have to be surgically removed. The surgery works a lot like other colic surgeries. Following surgery, the foal will be monitored closely at the hospital. It’s important for the referral docs to slowly reintroduce the foal to food and watch for signs of infection. This can often be a time and money-intensive process, but foals typically recover well from this surgery and go on to live happy, normal, lives.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Ensuring access to transportation for horses is paramount for all horse owners, but particularly crucial for those with higher-risk animals such as foals. Transportation facilitates timely access to veterinary care in case of emergencies, ensuring prompt treatment for any health issues that may arise.

Remember, failure to plan is planning to fail! If you are raising a foal, make sure you have a plan and a schedule worked out with your veterinarian to minimize risk on all health fronts. Foals are hard enough as it is, so don’t miss out on an opportunity to set yourself and your foal up for success!

Love and cheese,

Whinny

P.S. If you want to learn way more about parasites and deworming than this mouse can tell you, check out our podcast, Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth! It’s free, and you can learn more than you ever knew you didn’t know by listening! Just click on the link to visit the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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