What Does Lameness Look Like?

What Does Lameness Look Like?

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi everyone, Whinny here! It’s starting to cool off a teeny bit here in Florida, and a lot of you are gearing up for the riding season! We don’t want anything to get in the way of the fun stuff you’re planning with your horse this Autumn. My Springhill Equine vets love to keep your horse feeling good and performing up to his potential, no matter whether you’re a show jumper, reiner, trail rider, or anything in between!

Lameness evaluation and treatment is one of the most common things they work on. But the first step is for you to recognize the start of an issue at home, so let’s talk about what to look for. Some lameness is really obvious, like if your horse is limping badly on one foot, but a lot of the time it’s much more subtle! You may just notice a change in his performance, such as trouble making tight turns around the barrel, difficulty picking up one canter lead, or acting cranky out on the trails. Once you notice something is amiss, here’s what my vets will look for when they’re evaluating your horse move.

What does lameness look like?

If you drive by my clinic, you will often see horses being trotted up and down the grass outside the clinic while my vets watch them. This is the Springhill technicians’ favorite part of the day. They just love the healthy exercise, especially at noon in July and August! 

So what does it look like when a horse is lame? It can be an obvious limp in a forelimb lameness. Your horse may not want to bear weight on the leg or may have a pronounced “head bob” when he walks or trots. For a forelimb lameness, think “down on sound” – meaning the head bobs downwards when the sound (non-lame) leg hits the ground. So, if the head bobs down when the left front foot hits the ground, the lameness is on the right front leg. For a mild lameness, there may not be a super obvious head bob, especially when he’s moving on a straight line. My vets will also listen to the sound of his footfalls – a lame horse will land softer on the foot that hurts, as he shifts his weight to avoid pain. If both forelimbs hurt equally, you might not see a head bob, but your horse could look stiff when he’s moving, or rock his weight back onto his hind end to take weight off the front.

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Hindlimb lameness is evaluated differently than forelimb lameness. It may look like a “hip hike”, toe dragging, or a shortened stride on the lame hindlimb. It can also just manifest as problems picking up or keeping the canter leads, lack of impulsion, or even “crow hopping” or bucking.  Don’t worry if you aren’t sure, hindlimb lameness can be tricky to see – that’s what my vets are for. If you’re feeling like something doesn’t seem right, just call us!

Some lameness is more subtle than others. If your horse is quite sore, my vets may just need to see him walk and may not need him to trot. For most lameness cases though, the horse is evaluated at the trot, because the symmetrical nature of the normal trot gait makes abnormalities more apparent. Sometimes my vet will ask to see a horse canter to check out how the hind end moves. She’ll want to see the horse move on a straight line and may want to see him moving in a circle (such as on a longe line) to see how positioning his limbs on the inside or outside of the circle will affect his lameness. Some lameness is only noticeable when the horse is turning. The ground surface makes a difference too – your horse may look fine on grass or soft sand but be sore when the ground is harder. That’s typical of a hoof problem or arthritis. A soft tissue injury like tendinitis may be more painful on deep, soft footing. So my vet may ask her tech to jog your horse on an asphalt surface instead of the grass to check out the difference.

Here’s one thing I want you to understand – horses don’t lie about lameness. Their brains don’t work that way. Your horse isn’t “faking” a lameness when you ride him just because he doesn’t look as lame when you see him cantering in the field. He isn’t capable of that. Some things, like the additional weight of carrying a rider, or the specific motions he is asked to do under saddle, just make a lameness more apparent. So, if you notice lameness when you ride, just schedule a lameness exam with my vets instead of thinking your horse is being tricksy.

In my next blog on the lameness exam, we’ll talk about the steps my Springhill vets take to determine what’s hurting your horse, and how to help him!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Did you know the humans here at Springhill Equine have the biggest, most popular equine veterinary podcast in the world? It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. Each episode (and there are over 130 and counting) covers a horse-health topic and is directed at horse owners so they can learn how to take the best care of their horses. You can check it out right over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! As fall ushers in cooler temperatures and changing pastures, horse owners are met with the promise of crisp, cool air and the joys of fall riding. But as the seasons change, so too should your horse’s diet. Fall is a critical time to ensure your equine companion’s management is optimized for health. Remember, proper nutrition has almost nothing to do with supplements and almost everything to do with the diet we feed—including pasture. Diet is also what most impacts the pillars on which horse health stands: their hooves!

Being a resident of Springhill Equine’s pastures, I can tell you that Florida foliage does not change as much as it would up north (I have cousins living in a barn in Wisconsin). Things stay mostly green here and we don’t often have to worry about frost or *shudder* snow. But, this mouse knows the only constant in life is change, so here are some tips and tricks to managing that change for your horses (with a bonus snack idea at the end!)

Pasture Upkeep

As fall approaches, the quality of your horse’s pasture may change. Grasses tend to mature, becoming less lush and lower in nutritional value. It’s essential to regularly assess the state of your pasture to ensure it can still provide adequate nutrition for your horses. Implementing pasture rotation is an excellent strategy to manage fall grazing. By dividing your total pasture into large sections and rotating your horses between them, you allow the grass in one area to recover while your horses graze in another. This practice helps maintain better pasture quality throughout the season.

If you have other animals such as cattle or goats, you can rotate them through after the horses to help clean up parasites. In cases where your pasture quality decreases significantly, or if you have limited access to pasture, you may need to supplement your horse’s diet with additional forage. High-quality hay is an excellent option and provides the necessary fiber, vitamins, and minerals your horse needs.

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Calorie Management

It’s always essential to monitor your horse’s weight and adjust their diet accordingly. Consult with your veterinarian or equine nutritionist to determine if additional forage or dietary changes are needed. Check the back of the bag of any of your horse feeds for contact information for their nutrition consultants. These awesome humans are a drastically underutilized resource! For some of our beloved ponies that get fat on air, fall can be a time of relaxation for owners as their little gremlins can’t get quite as many calories. But, for the senior thoroughbred, fall may mean an increase in hay or concentrated feeds to keep those ribs covered!

Hydration

As temperatures drop, horses may drink less water. Ensure they have access to clean, fresh water at all times to prevent dehydration. Consider adding a heated water source to prevent water from freezing in colder regions. We all love our fall beverages (PSL anyone?), why don’t you try adding a bit of grain or molasses to one of your horses’ water buckets to encourage them to drink? Some creative humans even offer “water buffets” to their horses—different buckets with different mix-ins: plain, grain, molasses, apple juice, carrot juice, salt, Gatorade, etc. I notice I haven’t been offered a fondue buffet yet…

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Whinny’s Wisdom: Moderation in all things! ANY change to your horse’s diet or management should be made gradually.

 Proper pasture management and hydration are crucial components of fall horse care. By monitoring your pasture, adjusting your horse’s diet as needed, and ensuring they have consistent access to clean, unfrozen water, you can help your equine companions stay healthy and comfortable throughout the autumn season. Regular communication with your veterinarian can provide further guidance tailored to your horse’s specific needs. 

Alright, now that we’ve gotten the blog done, here’s the bonus content I promised–surprise, it’s a recipe blog! You can call me Chef Whinny, now!

Here’s a simple recipe for homemade pumpkin horse treats:

Pumpkin Horse Treats

Ingredients:

– 2 cups of rolled oats

– 1 cup of canned pumpkin puree (make sure it’s pure pumpkin without added sugar or spices)

– 1/4 cup of unsweetened applesauce

– 1/4 cup of molasses

– 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground nutmeg

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger

– 1/2 teaspoon of salt

Instructions:

  1. Preheat the Oven: Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
  1. Mix Dry Ingredients: In a large mixing bowl, combine the rolled oats, ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, ground ginger, and salt. Mix them well to distribute the spices evenly throughout the oats.
  1. Add Wet Ingredients: Add the canned pumpkin puree, unsweetened applesauce, and molasses to the dry ingredients. Mix everything together until you have a sticky dough-like consistency. You can use a wooden spoon or your hands to do this.
  1. Shape the Treats: Take small portions of the dough and roll them into bite-sized balls or shape them into fun cookie-cutter shapes using horse-themed cookie cutters if you have them. Place the treats on the prepared baking sheet, leaving some space between each.
  1. Bake: Bake the treats in the preheated oven for about 15-20 minutes or until they are firm and slightly browned on the edges. Keep an eye on them to prevent overcooking.
  1. Cool: Once baked, remove the treats from the oven and let them cool completely on a wire rack. They will firm up as they cool.
  1. Store: Store the pumpkin horse treats in an airtight container. They can be kept at room temperature for a few days or in the refrigerator for longer shelf life.

These homemade pumpkin horse treats are a delicious and nutritious way to spoil your equine friend during the fall season. Remember to feed them in moderation, as treats should be a supplement to your horse’s regular diet. Enjoy making and sharing these tasty treats with your horse, and make sure to leave some nice crumbles for your friendly clinic mouse!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Did you know the humans here at Springhill Equine have the biggest, most popular equine veterinary podcast in the world? It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. Each episode (and there are over 130 and counting) covers a horse-health topic and is directed at horse owners so they can learn how to take the best care of their horses. You can check it out right over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! I’m going to start with: I know what you’re thinking – “What does a little mouse like Whinny know about saddles and horses?” Well, let me tell you, I’ve been scurrying around these parts long enough to pick up a thing or two, and today, I’m going to let you in on a little secret – saddle fit for horses!

You see, saddle fit is a lot like finding the perfect pair of jeans. You wouldn’t want to wear pants that are too tight or too loose, right? Well, horses feel the same way about their saddles. If a saddle doesn’t fit them just right, it can cause all sorts of problems. So, grab your lassos and saddle up, because we’re going on a wild ride through the world of saddle fit.

The Basics of Saddle Fit

First things first, let’s talk about the basics of saddle fit. A saddle is like a cozy chair for our horsey pals, and just like us, they want it to be comfy. There are a few key things to consider when it comes to saddle fit:

  1. The Width of the Saddle Tree: The saddle tree is the frame that sits on a horse’s back. It needs to be the right width to match the shape of the horse’s back. If it’s too narrow, it can pinch and cause discomfort. If it’s too wide, it might wobble and make the horse feel like it’s carrying a seesaw. 
  2. The Length of the Saddle: The saddle’s length should match the horse’s back, too. If it’s too long, it can dig into the horse’s loins, and if it’s too short, it might not distribute the rider’s weight properly.
  3. The Gullet Clearance: The gullet is the space under the saddle that gives room for the horse’s spine. It should have enough clearance so it doesn’t press down on the horse’s back. Think of it like a limbo dance – the saddle has to clear that bar!

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Those first three are nearly impossible to fix with pads or shims or anything else. They are the basic framework of the saddle.

  1. Even Pressure:The saddle should distribute the rider’s weight evenly across the horse’s back. If there are pressure points or sore spots, it’s like having a pebble in your boot – mighty uncomfortable!
  2. Balance: Just like a rider needs to balance in the saddle, the saddle itself should sit evenly on the horse’s back. If it’s tilted or crooked, it can cause all sorts of trouble for the rider and the horse.

How to Tell if the Saddle Fits

Now that we’ve covered the basics of saddle fit, let’s dive deeper into how to determine if a saddle is a good fit for your four-legged friend. Saddle fit is crucial for your horse’s comfort and well-being, so let’s be thorough:

  1. The Pinch Test: Run your fingers along the sides of the saddle tree. If it feels like it’s pinching or digging into the horse’s back, it’s time to rethink that saddle. Remember, the saddle should provide gentle contact without causing discomfort or pressure points.
  1. The Gullet Check: Look underneath the saddle – is there enough clearance for the horse’s spine? You don’t want it rubbing or pressing on that sensitive area. Ideally, there should be about two to three fingers’ width of space between the saddle and the horse’s spine to ensure proper clearance.
  1. The Sore Spot Scan: After a ride, thoroughly examine your horse’s back for any sore spots or rub marks. Pay close attention to areas where the saddle’s panels make contact with the horse’s back. Sore spots may indicate that the saddle is not distributing pressure evenly, and adjustments or a different saddle may be necessary.
  1. The Wobble Test: When you’re in the saddle, check if it wobbles or rocks back and forth. A stable saddle is essential for the rider’s balance and the horse’s comfort. An unstable saddle can create an unsettling ride experience and lead to discomfort or injury for both rider and horse.
  1. The Balance Test: Get a friend to watch you ride. If that saddle looks tilted or crooked, it’s time for some saddle shopping! An imbalanced saddle can cause the rider to sit unevenly and put uneven pressure on the horse’s back. A well-balanced saddle helps maintain a healthy and comfortable riding posture.
  1. Observe Your Horse’s Behavior: Pay attention to your horse’s behavior while riding. Signs of saddle discomfort may include tail swishing, head tossing, resistance to being saddled, or reluctance to move freely. A horse that’s constantly trying to communicate discomfort is telling you it’s time to reevaluate the saddle fit.
  1. Consult a Professional: When in doubt, seek the guidance of a professional saddle fitter or a knowledgeable equine veterinarian. These experts can assess saddle fit more comprehensively, considering factors such as your horse’s conformation, muscle development, and any unique needs.

  2. Regularly Reassess: A horse’s shape can change over time due to factors like age, training, and muscle development. It’s essential to regularly reassess saddle fit to ensure that it continues to provide comfort and performance benefits for both rider and horse.

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    By following these detailed steps and continuously monitoring your horse’s well-being, you can ensure that your saddle fits correctly and promotes the health, comfort, and happiness of your equine companion. Remember, a happy horse makes for a happy rider, and together, you’ll be ready to conquer any riding adventure that comes your way!

    So, next time you’re gearing up for a ride, take a close look at that saddle. Make sure it’s snug as a mouse in a hay pile, and you’ll be off to the races in no time. 

    Until next week,

    ~Whinny

    P.S. Have you seen the latest Horse Girl Goes to the Vet video over on my YouTube Channel? There’s a lot of great content there, with more being added all the time. It’s a great free resource filled with high-quality horse health information, so don’t miss out!

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hey everybody, Whinny here! As a little mouse, observing the barnyard dynamics from my tiny vantage point, I couldn’t help but be intrigued when a new horse arrived in the neighborhood. The bustling barnyard is like a world unto itself, filled with its own set of rules and hierarchies. Here’s my take on the tale of the new horse’s arrival.

    Planning for the Newcomer

    Even from my mouse-sized perspective, I’ve heard humans say that horses are like potato chips – you can’t have just one. But before you bring in that new four-legged addition, a little planning can go a long way. 

    The first step is to designate a quarantine area. Now, if your barn is like my quiet little corner of the barnyard, this may not be a big deal. “Boring” farms, in our terms, are those where horses rarely come and go, or if they do, it’s for short trips like a peaceful trail ride. These outings have minimal exposure to contagious diseases. In such cases, a 7-day quarantine period is usually sufficient. The new horse should be kept in a stall or paddock with no nose-to-nose contact with other horses.

    However, if your farm sees more traffic or if the new horse is coming from a bustling place, it’s definitely time to consult your trusted veterinarians for guidance. This requires a bit more planning on your part!

    The Early Days of Introduction

    Once the quarantine period is over, the real fun begins – introducing the new horse to the established herd. But, let me tell you, it’s not always a graceful ballet; it can be as unpredictable as a cat-mouse meeting. While some, like Tony and me, might establish a harmonious working relationship, that’s not the norm. Be prepared for some discontent among the equine ranks! Expect your horse’s version of a firm “hello” – ears pinned back, maybe even a squeal. It’s all part of their natural behavior. 

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    To keep these introductions as smooth as possible, keep things low-key. Consider moving the new horse into a stall next to one of the current residents. Spend time together near the others, but maintain protective barriers like stall walls between them. Have a halter and lead rope on hand, just in case. The goal is a stress-free greeting for everyone involved. Keep these initial meetings short but allow both horses to go through the process. After all, a bit of posturing and mild confrontations are all part of the horse social scene.

    Integration into the Herd

    Now, let’s talk horse hierarchies. These become incredibly important during the integration phase. In every herd, there are leaders and followers. Figuring out who’s who can make the whole process smoother. While these are general rules, it’s usually best to avoid putting two dominant horses together; that often leads to a lot of power struggles. Most of these conflicts involve some posturing – ears pinned back, hindquarters turned toward another, and minor shoving matches. However, things can escalate, and that’s when injuries become a real concern.

    Introducing your new horse to one horse at a time, then slowly adding others, can make the dominance process easier to manage. It’s typically best to choose a companion that’s the opposite in terms of dominance, but again, it’s essential to consult with the experts for guidance. Besides introducing one horse at a time, ensuring ample space for everyone to establish their roles is also helpful. Throwing 15 horses together in a tiny field is a recipe for trouble, even for a tiny mouse like me.

    Sometimes, getting along isn’t easy, but with careful planning and consideration, everyone can coexist happily, and injuries can be avoided. It’s all about understanding the intricacies of the horse world and facilitating a smooth transition for the new arrival. My docs are always happy to talk you through it if you run into a problem, just give us a call.

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news?  Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is out! You can grab your ebook, paperback or hardcover today, or get a signed copy at our annual Open House on Sept. 30th here at the Clinic. Or you can get one online now and have it signed at Open House. Lots of options!! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hi everyone, Whinny here! Here in Florida, it’s been brutally hot lately! I heard my Springhill docs saying it’s even worse than a usual summer. It’s been hard on the horses too – we’ve had a bunch of horses in our area stop sweating, which the docs say is a pretty big problem. They actually want them to get gross and sweaty to stay healthy! There’s a fancy name for when they don’t sweat well enough – Anhidrosis.

    Normal Sweating

    It’s really important for a horse to sweat so it can keep his internal organs at a normal temperature even when he’s working hard or it’s hot outside. Horses have a lot of sweat glands in their skin, and many of them are a different type than the ones you humans have. Have you noticed that when your horse sweats, it’s often white and frothy looking? That’s because they have something called apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids that causes them to look “lathered up”. Sweat also contains a lot of water and electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and chloride. As the water evaporates off your horse’s body, it cools him down, transferring the heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5 Fahrenheit. When he’s exercising, it may be elevated, but will return to normal quickly at rest.

    What’s the Deal with Non-Sweaters?

    When your horse has a decreased ability to sweat like he should in response to an increased body temperature, it’s called anhidrosis. Because sweating is the horse’s primary way of cooling himself, if he doesn’t sweat appropriately it can cause him to get overheated, not perform well, or even develop dangerous heat stroke. Horses lose 65-70% of body heat through their sweat, so if they’re unable to do that, it’s a pretty big deal. Anhidrosis can have a significant effect on your horse’s ability to be ridden and perform or even just function as a pasture pet.

    During hot weather or hard exercise, a horse with anhidrosis won’t sweat as much as he should or might not sweat at all. He can have patchy sweat (like only under the saddle pad), a little sweat, or no sweat. He might appear to be working much harder than he should be or breathing heavily to try to cool off, even after he’s done working or just while standing around.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Anhidrosis is a problem mainly in hot and humid, tropical kind of places, like my dear home state of Florida and other states around it. This is especially a problem when the temperatures stay high for long periods of time, and don’t drop down much at night, like the perma-summer we seem to have here in Florida. Lucky us! It’s not as common in cooler, more temperate climates, but it can happen there too, especially in heat waves. Making matters worse, when the humidity is high, the sweat is even less able to evaporate into the already water-saturated air, so it decreases how effectively sweat can cool the horse.

    It’s not known exactly why or how anhidrosis happens, but it’s thought that the sweat glands get over-stimulated and so they start to work less well. The onset can be sudden or more gradual. It can happen to horses that are born in a hot climate as well as horses that are new to it. So being from Florida doesn’t protect them, unfortunately. Between 2-6% of horses are estimated to have anhidrosis. No links to specific breeds, ages, colors, or sex have been identifiedthe risk is equal for all horses.

    Chronic anhidrosis has been linked to atrophy (degeneration) of the sweat glands, leading to a permanent loss of the glands’ ability to produce sweat. Researchers are looking into associations with decreased excretion of chloride through the urinary system and in sweat glands, but this is still being investigated.

    Recognizing and Diagnosing Anhidrosis

    Because some horses with anhidrosis still sweat a bit, it can be tricky to recognize if your horse is affected. Some areas of the body can continue to sweat, but not enough to cool the horse sufficiently. For example, a horse with anhidrosis might continue to sweat under his mane or saddle pad.  You may notice first that your horse doesn’t perform well in hot weather. He may take longer than normal to recover after exercise or breathe heavily even when standing in the shade. He may have a higher-than-normal pulse or temperature.

    Here are some things to watch for:

    • Lack of sweat, or a small amount of sweat, in situations when other horses are sweating a lot
    • Coat is dry and clean to the touch
    • Fast or labored breathing, especially when standing around not working
    • Flared nostrils
    • Low energy or fatigue
    • Slow ability to cool down after exercise
    • Increased body temperature (especially serious when it’s higher than 104)
    • Seeking and remaining in the shade (especially if food is elsewhere)
    • Sometimes, eating or drinking less than normal
    • In chronic cases dry, itchy or flaky skin. Sometimes there is hair loss.

    My docs can often diagnose a horse based on their physical exam and the signs your horse is showing. If the diagnosis isn’t certain, there is a test they can do to check the amount of sweat your horse is able to produce. For this test, my doc injects a small amount of a medication called terbutaline into the horse’s skin to elicit sweating in that spot. That tests the amount of sweat your horse can produce compared to a normal horse.

    Treatment

    So if your horse is a non-sweater, what to do? Well sure, if you move your horse to a cooler climate where hot, humid weather is less likely, they will certainly be more comfortable. Many horses will start sweating again when they are in a cooler environment, and that is the only surefire approach. But, it may not be a realistic option for many people and horses.

    One of the simplest things to try is an electrolyte supplement, which is a good idea in the summer even if your horse sweats normally. Several remedies that have been tried over the years, with variable success, including commercial supplements such as One AC or Platinum Refresh, and even dark beer such as Guinness. Most of them are fairly safe to try, though they may or may not work. At Springhill Equine, we often use a combination of acupuncture and Chinese herbal therapy and find that can be quite successful in some cases.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Here are some other ways to keep a non-sweater more comfortable:

    • Keep him in a stall or shaded paddock during the day. A severely affected horse may not be able to tolerate turnout on hot days.
    • Provide fans, misters, or a sprinkler. Some horses will cool off in a pond if they have access to one.
    • Make sure he always has cool water to drink
    • Keep work to a minimum during the hot times of the year and ride early in the morning

    It’s better to prevent your horse from getting overheated than to have to treat him if he does, but if you get in a bind here are some steps to follow

    • Move him somewhere shady
    • Hose him down with a continuous flow of cool water or sponge him repeatedly with water from a bucket filled with water and ice
    • Use portable fans
    • Offer him cold water to drink
    • Take his temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate if you can
    • Call my doc!

    So if your horse is all stinky and sweaty after a ride, and you have to bathe him and wash your saddle pads yet again, don’t grumble about it, be happy about that sweat!

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is available for pre-order! You can reserve your ebook today, and it will release on Sept. 8th! If you prefer a paperback or hardcover, they’ll be releasing on (or a bit before) Sept. 15th, just a week or so away! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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