Aug 7, 2017 | Farriers, Feet, Hoof, Hoof Care
Mushy Feet
My, we have been getting a lot of rain around here lately! As you know, cats are not too fond of water. As if that isn’t enough of a reason to be concerned about the rain, daily thunderstorms plus high humidity equals muddy pastures; a recipe for disaster when it comes to your horse’s feet! Please, allow me to give you a quick rundown of “what-to-use-when” for the various moisture-induced hoof conditions we see most commonly.
Thrush
You all know the smell. That rotting, nasty, sticks-in-your-nostrils-for-hours smell that you notice while picking your horse’s feet. You may also see some dark black or gray gunk oozing from your horse’s soft frog, or deep lateral sulci (clefts). Thrush is caused by a bacteria that loves wet, oxygen-poor environments, like the deep grooves in your horse’s muddy feet! Luckily, with daily cleaning and application of Kera-Mend Thrush Paste (available through our Docs), you will have the infection well under control in no time!
Mushy Foot
This is a disorder that our Docs see regularly here in Florida in times of wet weather. The entire sole gets soft, thin, and crumbly; to the point that you can make it bounce with your thumb! [Cats don’t have thumbs, so I can’t say I’ve tried this myself.] The best treatment out there for what the Docs call “Mushy Foot” is daily application of Durasole (available here at the clinic). Durasole contains drying and strengthening agents which actually thicken and harden the sole in a remarkably short period of time.
Hoof Cracks and Crumbles
Another problem we tend to see with feet in this ugly weather is cracked, crumbling hoof walls. As always, the first line of defense in keeping your horse’s hooves intact is regular trimming by a knowledgeable farrier. However, there are a few things you can try in the interim to help your farrier out. First of all, stop washing your horses feet! Yes, you heard me right. You know what one thing is worse for feet than standing in a muddy pasture all day? Standing in a muddy pasture, having mud washed off with a hose, allowing feet to dry out, then returning to the muddy pasture. It’s actually the wet-to-dry-to-wet transition that is really bad for hooves! If your only turnout option is in a wet environment, help your horse out with some Kera-Mend Hoof Dressing (my minion Beth in the office can order it for you). Apply some to the coronary band daily (because, as we all know, hooves grow from the top down). This product not only promotes healthy hoof growth, but it also protects the hoof from that wet/dry transition. The secret ingredient is lanolin, which is the waxy substance produced by sheep to waterproof their wool! Maybe if cats had that stuff, we wouldn’t hate the water so very much.
Proper Diagnosis, Proper Treatment
If you suspect your horse may have any of the aforementioned foot problems, please have one of our amazing Docs out for an exam. There are more serious conditions (such as laminitis) that can masquerade as any one of these conditions, and an expert evaluation is highly recommended. If you would like to have any of these handy-dandy hoof products in your tack trunk, come find me here at the clinic, and I will point you in the right direction… but if it’s raining, don’t expect me to greet you outside!
Until next week,
Tony
Aug 1, 2017 | Coggins / EIA
Uh Oh, the Coggins test is positive!
You read that correct! A positive Coggins test. For most of the horse-owning world, this is a theoretical problem they will never encounter. However, for a group of horses in Canada, this is reality right now. So let’s chat about Coggins. What it tests for, what it means to have a positive test, and what happens to those horses next.
Can I study for a Coggins test?
Well, you can, but it won’t do you any good. A Coggins test is a simple blood draw (from your horse, just to be clear). That blood is then tested for the presence of the Equine Infectious Anemia Virus (EIAV). This is a particularly nasty virus. EIAV is a very close relative to the AIDS virus, and works in much the same way. EIAV can spend years wandering around a horse’s body without any signs or symptoms of its presence. During that time, however, an infected horse can spread the virus if it is bitten by one of several different species of flies. The most common fly vectors are what are known as the dirty eaters: horse flies, deer flies, and other things you humans would call huge flies.
It’s positive! Now what???
This is what has happened in two areas of Canada recently. Horses had Coggins tests performed in anticipation of competitions, and those tests came back positive! The next step will be to quarantine all the horses on these farms. Once a good quarantine is in place, investigators will start trying to determine if horses have traveled to or from these farms, and if they could be out spreading EIAV. In the meantime, on the farm, all the horses will have Coggins tests performed, including the positive horses, who will be retested. Then everyone who is negative gets retested every 60 days until no new cases show up on that testing, plus a few months quarantine for good measure.
What happens to the positive horses?
Horses who repeatedly test positive, unfortunately, must be isolated from other horses for the remainder of their lives, or be euthanized. To ensure that no one sells the horse as normal, a large brand is placed on the left side of the neck, ending in the letter A. This tells everyone at a glance that this horse tests positive for Coggins.
Good news on the quarantine: it’s a pretty small area. Horses only need to be about 200 yards from any other horse to prevent the spread of the disease. So, it is feasible to quarantine a horse, but it isn’t easy. If horses are quarantined, it’s likely they will live many years with very few side effects of the virus. Eventually it will begin to attack the immune system and lead to life-threatening anemia.
Fun Coggins Trivia
- Coggins testing was begun in 1972. At that time nearly 4% of horses tested were positive. For the last year I could Google about (2005), 0.01% of Coggins tests were positive.
- 95% of positive tests in the United States have come from Southeastern states. As you all know, we grow big flies really well.
- USDA thinks about 40% of the horse population of the United States gets tested in any given year
- Federal, State, and Local governments use the number of Coggins tests performed in an area to estimate horse numbers. This is important! They use that number to decide if money should be spent to create, maintain, and improve horse stuff.
Coggins is an example of testing that works for everyone! By testing the horses that travel, the number of positive horses has dropped pretty dramatically! The recent positives in Canada prove we have to keep testing though, to make sure this disease doesn’t catch us by surprise!
Until next week!!
Tony
Jul 24, 2017 | Lacerations, Uncategorized
In my many years of observing horses, I’ve noticed that they have a strong affinity for sharp objects. Is it some sort of magnetic force? Do they have little aliens inside their heads telling them to stick their leg through that rusty bush hog? Someone really needs to do some research on this topic. All I know is that horses love sharp things, and they love rubbing their bodies up against them, especially after-hours and on weekends.
Is this an emergency?
If in doubt, whenever your horse has a cut that has broken the skin, yes it is an emergency. Some things that make it more of an emergency include location (over a joint, tendon, or vital structure), bleeding (think
puddles rather than drops), and duration (did this happen 5 minutes ago, or last week). Remember, all of our docs text message, and they generally will not charge you for reviewing photos of your horse’s questionable wound to decide whether or not it needs to be seen immediately.
Does this need stitches?
The answer to this question is not always black-and-white. It depends somewhat on your goals for the horse, your budget, and the level of aftercare you are able to provide. Oftentimes it is not a question of whether or not the wound will heal without sutures, but rather how pretty it will look in the end, and how long it will take. If you want the most cosmetic outcome for your horse, and the shortest healing time, then yes it needs stitches. But if you would like the least expensive option, you only want the horse to be a pasture ornament, and you have unlimited time to spend on cleaning and bandaging the wound, then you can probably get away without suturing. I will say, though, that skin makes an excellent band-aid, and any time it can be preserved, our docs like to give it a fighting chance.
What’s next?
So, your horse’s wound is all stitched up and looking wonderful. Game over, right? Not quite. Your horse may need some antibiotics, as well as daily cleaning, to prevent the wound from becoming infected.
You also may need to implement some extra fly control around the wound, as bugs really love that seeping blood and serum. Usually our docs use sutures that will dissolve on their own over time. However, if your horse manages to rip the stitches out in less than a week, let us know right away.
The good news is that most lacerations heal amazingly well if treated quickly and properly. If you own a horse, chances are you will become familiar with their natural affinity for sharp things, if you haven’t already. Luckily you have my staff close at hand to help you when the time comes!
Until next time!
-Tony
Jul 17, 2017 | Drugs
I have patience. OK, I have patience for some things. I will stalk a squirrel for hours, I will watch the birds from the windowsill in the clinic until I have just the right moment to pounce, and I will patiently supervise Shannon from my perch on her desk. Know who isn’t patient? You humans! You want it fixed, and you want it fixed now! This week, let’s explore that impatience.
The latest and greatest (AKA OsPhos)
It seems every time a new drug, or therapy, or gadget comes out, you humans are sure it will fix whatever is going on with your horse. I’m not saying new is bad, but each one of these things has a problem it aims to fix. I’m going to pick on OsPhos, but you guys can use that big ol’ brain to extrapolate.
OsPhos came out, and suddenly every horse needs it. It will fix hock arthritis, bucking under saddle, not riding well, going too slow, going too fast, and being moody. OK, I might be exaggerating, but not by much. OsPhos, and its cousin Tildren, are great drugs for very specific things, but it changes the way bones remodel. There are some very real side effects to changing the way bone remodels. Horses, unlike cats, do actual athletic events. Turning a barrel, landing off a jump, and sitting for a piaffe all require a lot of strength. Use OsPhos incorrectly, and your horse can break a leg. It’s far better to have an actual diagnosis of a problem, good shoeing, proper fitness work, and a plan, than shooting bone altering drugs into your horse!
Mood altering substances
Horses have some crazy personality quirks. I hear training can help you understand and modify many of these quirks. Now, I’m not against a bit of pharmaceutical intervention, when the need arises. You aren’t going to get me on the crazy chestnut mare coming off of 2 weeks of stall rest! There are definite situations where drugs can help your horse manage some PTSD from their previous lives. However, if you find your horse can’t do their job for months at a time without a little help from their friends, maybe it’s time for an intervention.
Expensive stuff
Horses cost a lot of money. Stuff for horses costs a lot of money. Just because that stuff costs a lot of money, however, doesn’t mean it helps. I’m picking on all sorts of things here, but in particular stem cells, and other similar really expensive things to use on your horse when they hurt themselves. Much like OsPhos, there are very good reasons to inject these expensive things into your horse, but they aren’t a magic cure-all. In fact, most research has shown that a good rehab program is more important for tendon and ligament injuries than anything else! Good rehab programs require patience though, and you guys aren’t so good at that.
Moral of the story? Be patient! It’s what horses teach you humans best. Take a cue from a wise cat: go take a nap if things get too uptight.
Until next time…..
Tony
Jul 10, 2017 | Treats
The Treats We Eat
The docs are often asked, “is [fill in the blank] is a good treat for my horse?” The answer is actually a bit more complicated than you would expect, and is highly dependent on which horse we are talking about. I personally am not picky about treats- I will eat anything, from the last bite of your tuna sandwich, to that slightly out-of-date lunch meat in the fridge. Teanie, on the other hand, insists on those little crunchy square cat treats exclusively, and they have to be salmon flavored. She is such a diva! Don’t tell her I said that.
Which treats are best?
In general, anything labeled and marketed as horse treats at a reputable feed store/tack shop/ag supply location will be safe for your horse (in moderation). Additionally, fresh fruits and vegetables such as apples, carrots, bananas, oranges, and watermelon are also perfectly safe for your horse. Now, whether or not your horse is adventurous enough to try them is a different story!
The treats you need to be careful of are the sticky ones covered in so much molasses that they might drip if you squeeze them hard enough. These are NOT the ideal cookie of choice for overweight or insulin resistant horses, but they may be fine for your 30 year old skinny thoroughbred with no teeth.
How many is too many?
If your horse is in normal body condition (Body Condition Score of 5 out of 9), he or she can easily have several treats, even a few handfuls of treats a day. You should not be feeding BAGS of carrots, apples, or horse cookies on a daily basis, and treats should never be offered free-choice. Horses don’t self-limit their food intake, and they can easily colic if given free access to goodies like these.
When should you give your horse a treat?
The behavior component of treating horses is also something to consider. Treats should be a reward for your horse when he or she does something good. For example, while getting a shot from the vet, when they come to you in the pasture, once they have politely loaded onto the trailer, or as a reward after a hard ride. If your horse gets accustomed to receiving treats from you every time you walk into the barn, they can become “mouthy” or start nipping.
Horses, like other animals, can also be trained to work for their cookies. You can teach them to do stretches, to bow, or any number of impressive tricks to show off when your friends come to visit. I recently trained the techs to give me a treat every time I lift my paw in the air. They are very fast learners.
Remember, our vets and technicians are here for you, and they are a great resource for these and other questions about your horse’s nutrition! Feel free to stop by the clinic anytime, and I will direct you to the right human for your specific needs…in exchange for a treat, of course!
Jul 3, 2017 | Dentals, Uncategorized
I recently spoke about teeth and dentals, but I’m going to do it again. This time I’m going to talk about myths and legends surrounding horse teeth. There’s a saying I hear around here quite often: No Hoof, No Horse. I have a second version: No Tooth, Expensive Feed Bill. Read on to learn about how to avoid the expensive feed bill. After you finish reading, call, email, or message the Clinic to set up a dental float during the month of July and enjoy a $35 discount!
1.Young horses don’t need dentals
Very, very, very not true. Horses under the age of five years have a ton of stuff going on in their mouths. They have baby teeth leaving and adult teeth growing in. Major changes happen about every 6 months. On top of that, baby teeth and young adult teeth are very soft. This makes them form super-sharp points ridiculously fast. In addition, all those changes need to be monitored. If a tooth erupts not quite correctly, it can be corrected now, and you can avoid a lifetime of dental corrections.
2. Miniature horses don’t need dentals
If ever there was a snaggle-toothed bunch of horses, it’s miniatures. They try to fit the same number of teeth in their mouth as a full-size horse. Sometimes it goes very badly. Minis also like to get what are called supernumerary teeth. These are extra teeth that form for no good reason and cause mass chaos in a mouth. The earlier they are identified, and removed, the better the rest of the teeth will do.
3. Power tools are bad
I covered this one last time, but I’m going to do it again, since I hear this myth the most. Power tools aren’t bad. They let my Docs do the same job on the first horse of the day, and the 10th horse of the day. Power tools get the job done faster, with less stress on your horse, and my Docs. Know what makes power tools bad? People who don’t know how to use them. That’s not my Docs. They go to continuing education every year to stay up to date on the latest research. They also participate in veterinary online forums discussing dentistry for horses. If you have ever used a drill or power saw, then you understand the benefits of power tools. Hand drilling and sawing takes a long, long time, and you’re exhausted after one hole, or board.
4.You can perform a dental float without sedation
Alright, I’ve seen this one a few times. One of these people is even a veterinarian, I’m ashamed to say. Let me nip this in the bud right here and now. Sedation, a full mouth speculum, and a bright light are required to see ALL of your horse’s mouth. Anything less is bad medicine. That mouth goes way back there! There is simply no way to fully evaluate a mouth with anything less!
5. Old horses don’t need dentals
I will give you that some horses, during some periods of their lives, can go two years between dentals. These are horses between 10 and 15 years, who are working as lawn mowers or being lightly ridden periodically, and have a history of dental evaluations which demonstrated good teeth. No matter the age, if your horse is being regularly ridden, it should have a dental float yearly. There may not be much to correct, but that little bit is just as annoying to your horse as that little pebble in your shoe. After about 15 years of age, yearly dental evaluations are needed to check for old teeth. Horses start to wear out their teeth sometime between 15 and 25. The range is that big because a lot of factors are involved in the wearing out of something as significant as a horse tooth. Worn out teeth cause significant pain! Can you imagine chewing on celery with a painful tooth? Yeah, me either. Don’t make your horse chew hay with one.
Keep the pearly whites pearly and white! Schedule your dental evaluation and float In-Clinic during July and get $35 off!! Seriously, that’s a deal! Be sure to bring tuna fish for me, and I will grace you with my presence. I expect scratches under the chin, behind my ears, and along my back.
Jun 26, 2017 | Disaster Preparedness, Hurricanes, Microchips, Uncategorized
I realize I may sound like a broken record this time of year, but sometimes you humans don’t listen so well. Cats listen to everything. We might ignore you, but we do hear you. ‘Tis the season for me to chat with you about hurricane preparedness.
The Bare Necessities
As I sit here watching it torrentially rain, I remember back to last year when Hermine made the power go out for three days. I learned humans require a substance called coffee, which requires electricity, and horses drink A LOT of water, which requires a pump, which requires electricity! Electricity has a nasty tendency to go away during hurricanes.
Take a look around your farm and decide who needs what to tough it out for 5-7 days. For the animals, that is feed, hay, and water. For the humans, that’s coffee, water, and food that doesn’t need refrigeration. Can you provide these things without electricity?
Anticipate 15 gallons of water per horse per day, along with 1 gallon per human per day, and another ¾ per dog and cat per day. This water can be stored in large trash cans (clean ones, obviously!), or those big water troughs. Water can be purified with 6 drops of bleach per gallon if necessary. Be sure any feed and hay you’ve stocked up on is way, way above what you could possibly in your wildest dreams consider a high water level. Ask the nice people in St. Augustine how high water can get without the hurricane even making landfall!
Be Safe
Now is the time to examine your fences, property, and barn for anything that can become debris during hurricanes. High winds, during even afternoon thunderstorms, can pick up old boards, sheets of roofing tin, or even fencing wire and send it flying around your farm. Horses seem to have a special magnetism for injuries from these scenarios. Keeping these “junk piles” every human seems to have securely covered or tied down is key to an injury-free hurricane experience.
Eyeball your farm for other hazards that may occur. A biggie is downed power lines. Figure out where you can safely put your animals so that even if lines come down, they won’t be able to go near them. Approach deep water areas the same way.
Speaking of keeping your animals safe during storms, we recommend big stuff like horses and cows stay outside during bad storms if at all possible. This gives them the best opportunity to move away from flying debris, downed trees, and other fun hurricane happenings. We recommend small critters, like dogs and cats, stay inside to prevent them from doing the full-on freakout and running away.
Find your way home
Microchips. Best way for your horse, or dog, or cat, or grandparent (ok just kidding on that one, sort of) to find their way home is with a properly registered microchip. Microchips are easy to place, simple to register, and provide 24/7 lifetime identification for your horse.
For the humans though, have a family plan for how you will meet up if a storm prevents you from returning home. Pick a point person, whom everyone knows, that lives outside of the potential disaster area. Let’s be real here: for hurricanes, that means someone outside of Florida. This is a person any family member can contact to check-in. Having a far away point person can be a lifesaver (literally) in these situations.
There are tons of resources out there about hurricane preparedness and farms. Go find them, read them, and form a plan. Don’t be the cat left out in the rain: Be prepared for hurricane season!!
Jun 19, 2017 | Pet Pigs
Pet Pigs!
I typically tend to grace you, my loyal readers, with seemingly endless knowledge of the equine species. Well, for a twist, today I am going to enlighten you with my wisdom regarding animals of the porcine variety. Who knew pet pig care was another one of my many areas of expertise?
Umm, I just got a pet pig- now what?!
So, you have found yourself the new owner of a pet pig. Now what do you do? Does it need vaccines? Should it be spayed or neutered? What do you feed it? For your convenience, I have designed a complete annual Pig Wellness Package which includes all of your pig’s healthcare needs for the year in one easy visit! I don’t actually perform the services- I have Dr. Vurgason for that. Cats don’t much care for squealing.
Dr. Vurgason’s mild pig obsession
Arguably the best part of my brilliant Pig Wellness Package is the opportunity to pick Dr. V’s brain about pig nutrition, pig behavior, and all things swine. As a life-long pig owner herself, Dr. V lives for the chance to talk pig with other fans of the best pet money can buy (cats should be adopted, so we’re in a different category).
Remember to spay or neuter your pet (pig)!
Now that you have a Pig Wellness Package for all of his or her annual care like vaccines, physical exam, deworming, hoof trim, and tusk trim, what else does your pig need? Well, just like cats and dogs, pet pigs should be spayed or neutered before 1 year of age if they are not intended as breeding animals. Conveniently, Springhill Equine (and Porcine?) now offers these services as well!
If you have any questions about your pet pig that I haven’t expertly answered (doubtful), don’t miss my 2nd Annual Piggy Ice Cream Social this Saturday at 2 pm! It was hands-down the most entertaining event of last year. No pet pig required to attend! You horse people will get a kick out of this, I promise. There will be kiddie pools and watermelon for the pigs, frozen treats for the humans, and Dr. V, who will be happy to tell you everything you ever wanted to know about those cute little oinkers! See you there, fans.
Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic, it’s staff, and mascot Tony, are not responsible for the overwhelming urge to get a pet pig after attending this event. If you already have a pet pig, be alert for any of the following symptoms: excessive Google searches for pigs that need homes, researching costume ideas for pigs, moving people out of your house to make room for more pigs, planning social events around pig-friendly places, the ratio of pictures of your kids to pictures of your pigs on your phone becomes greater than 3:1, you call your kids by the pig’s name on accident more than twice daily, your pig has more than 2 social media accounts, you spend in excess of 2 hours a day thinking about clever pig names, or if you have stopped associating with people who mention that perhaps you might have a pig obsession. If you experience any of these or other similar symptoms, please contact your local Pig Owners Super Support Endeavor (POSSE). If you don’t have a posse, start one!
Jun 12, 2017 | Flies
Ah, not-winter! It covers most of the year in Florida. I love not-winter. I love sleeping in the sun, I love rolling in the grass, and I love not being cold. I don’t love bugs. Not-winter comes with a lot of bugs. Want to learn how to manage some of those bugs? Read on while I confer some wisdom on you.
Whatcha got there?
Any good bug management plan starts with knowing what kind of bugs you have. Around horses, you generally have stable flies and house flies. Easy way to tell them apart: the ones biting your legs are stable flies; the ones landing on your lunch are house flies. I have included pictures if you would like to examine their cold, lifeless bodies after you kill them to determine which ones you have.
Beyond stable and house flies, you have horse flies, horn flies, and the always-fun deer flies. Gnats are another little gem. I have a bad news/good news scenario for them later on. Each of these fun creatures from Hell require their own management system, so knowing what you have, and what you are trying to control, is really important.
Manage your poop
Step 1 in fly management is manure management. House flies and gnats, in particular, love a good organic component to their baby nurseries. By managing your manure well, you make inhospitable baby-making territory.
I have a few thoughts on this matter, but let’s start with the basics. Look for areas where manure and water congregate. Eliminate those areas with drains (I hear the French version works well, whatever that means), and manure buckets so poop leaves the vicinity rather than making a delicious manure/water mud fly aphrodisiac. Drag fields to break up manure so it can dry out. Cover manure piles with black tarps to make it too hot to handle for baby flies.
Horses make a lot of poop. Making it less appealing to flies will go further than most control measures towards decreasing your fly population.
Want to make your manure into compost you can put on your fields and flowers in 90 days? Check out this link.
Or ask Dr. Lacher about her aerated static pile compost system. She loves to talk about it, and it will save the rest of us from hearing about how amazing it is, again.
Kill them, kill them all
Back to the beginning: know what you have to know how to kill them.
Fly predators and traps are great options to really decimate your house and stable fly population. Being a thoughtful cat, I have included the best traps to use for the most common fly types below. Before you get to traps, though, let’s talk fly predators.
Fly predators just sound like some scary little creatures, don’t they? Like The Rock of bugs. The truth is less tough, and more delicate. These little tiny wasps must be protected from the big, bad world so they can do their job of killing baby flies. So a few fly predator tips:
- Begin releasing them before fly season gets going
- Release them in early morning or early evening. They don’t like the dark or cold
- Be sure temperatures are above 45 degrees before you release them
- Ants really like to eat them. Release them in an area where they are safe from being devoured by ants.
- They will only travel about 3 feet from where they are released. Plan your release locations wisely to maximize your benefits.
Now for some traps:
For House flies: For Stable flies:
Click here for more about the biting fly trap pictured on the right
For Horse and Deer Flies:
Click here
Click here
http://www.atlantic-county.org/mosquito-control/greenhead.asp is another great resource with instructions on how to build your own fly traps.
For horn flies: move all cows more than 5 miles away…. yeah.
If you can’t kill ‘em, repel ‘em
You’ve managed your poop, put out traps, and released the fly predators. Now what? Now you may explore the fly spray/repellent option. Why save this for last? Because fly sprays don’t work very well. Yeah, you thought it was true. This cat confirms it. Fly sprays don’t work very well.
My best fly spray advice is to use it when necessary for short times, and use a whole lot of it at once. Going out for a ride? Douse that pony in fly spray. Once it dries, it’s efficacy (no matter what brand, or homemade concoction it is) decreases dramatically. The only place fly spray works well is against horn flies. Those guys hate the stuff. Paying particular attention to spraying your horse’s belly will also drive them up, and the heat of full-on Florida sun will kill them.
Want slightly better options for long term control? My Docs love a product called Ultra Boss. This is an oil-based pour on designed for cattle, but safe for horses. They usually find 8-10cc strategically placed on various body parts where flies (and gnats) congregate will last for 7-10 days. If you ride often though, it will last more in the 3-5 day range. This product works great to repel gnats!
Speaking of gnats
Ugh! Gnats!! Bad news: there’s no trap, or control method to minimize the horrors of gnats. They like sandy, organic soil. Florida is one giant peninsula of sandy, organic soil. Good news: IBH Salve, SB Salve, and Ultra Boss work great to keep them away from the sensitive areas of your horse’s eyes and face. Also in good news, fly masks and the mosquito mesh turnout sheet from Schneider’s saddlery work pretty darn good to keep them off your horse.
Flies are awful, horrible critters. Help a cat rid the world of these vile creatures. Want even more help? Give my Docs a call. They are ridiculously knowledgeable about flies.
Jun 5, 2017 | Allergies, Haircoat, Pests, Skin Funk
Skin
Skin is a truly amazing organ. It keeps our bodies from drying out, protects us against infection, plus it’s waterproof! I love my skin. Heck, as a cat, I spend several hours a day grooming it just to keep it in pristine condition. But the trouble with skin is that sometimes this protective barrier that surrounds our entire bodies can break down. Let’s take a closer look at the 3 biggest enemies of equine skin: Rain, Sun, and Bugs.
Rain
Just about every horse owner has heard of Rain Rot. But, did you know that rain rot is actually caused by a type of bacteria, and not a fungus? And did you know that this same bacteria can cause skin problems elsewhere on the body, like the pasterns and cannon bones? Rain rot is so named because this bacterium happens to thrive in moist environments. This is why it is usually found on your horse’s back or flanks after heavy rainfall, or on the back of his pasterns when he has been standing in a muddy pasture. So, while skin is waterproof, it is not a fan of prolonged exposure to moisture.
Sun
You wouldn’t go outside all day in the middle of summer without any sunblock on, would you? Well, the same goes for your white horse, or even your chestnut horse with that little snip on his nose. If you are one of the lucky ones to own a mostly-white paint horse in Florida, you may want to invest in a full-body fly sheet with UV-blocking properties. But, if it’s just a strip or a blaze you need to cover up, daily application of sunblock or a fly mask may suffice. Don’t forget to protect your horse’s skin from sunburn just as you would your own!
Bugs
Nobody likes being bitten or stung by flies, gnats, bees, ants, and the like. But many horses are actually allergic to the saliva of these pests. As you may have guessed, the skin and hair of these horses is a complete disaster during the buggy season. The owners of these horses may as well invest in fly spray at the rate they have to buy it! Wouldn’t it be great if there were a single product you could apply daily to repel bugs, soothe skin, take away the itch, and treat already-existing bug bites? Well, actually, there is!
To find out about this and other magical equine skin products, don’t miss our free seminar, Managing Skin: From Itch to Funk! this Thursday, June 8th, at 7pm. One of my favorite speakers from Kinetic Vet will be talking about how to manage these and a variety of other equine skin conditions. Oh, and most importantly, I will be there! Check out the Event Page on Facebook for more details!
So, bring a friend, and a treat for me, and I’ll see you Thursday! Be ready to take home some free stuff, but please make sure that I am not among the prizes that wind up in your barn. Sometimes I accidentally go home with people…
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