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Got Milk? Got Risks: Navigating the Hazards of Raw Goat Milk

Got Milk? Got Risks: Navigating the Hazards of Raw Goat Milk

Apr 15, 2024 | Goats and Sheep

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hiya everybody, Whinny here! As goat enthusiasts and farmers, we cherish the benefits of goat milk – its creamy texture, rich flavor, and nutritional value. However, it’s essential to recognize that raw milk can harbor harmful pathogens, posing risks to both goat owners and consumers. In this blog post, we’ll explore zoonotic diseases associated with raw goat milk and discuss safe milk consumption practices to mitigate these risks effectively. So, saddle up and prepare for a journey into the murky depths of milk safety, guided by yours truly. That’s right, this mouse knows more than just cheese.

Whinny’s Wisdom: A zoonotic disease is an infectious disease caused by a pathogen–like bacteria, viruses, or parasites–that can be transmitted between animals and humans. In other words, it’s a disease that can naturally spread from animals to humans, either directly through contact with an infected animal or indirectly sources like contaminated food, water, or vectors such as mosquitoes or ticks.

Zoonotic Diseases Contracted from Raw Goat Milk

  1. Brucellosis:

Welcome to the world of Brucellosis, courtesy of the notorious Brucella melitensis. Consume raw milk contaminated with this bacterial troublemaker, and you’re in for a rendezvous with fever, accompanied by joint pain and fatigue. Testing goats regularly and pasteurizing milk are your best bets for prevention. Brucella melitensis is officially not found in Florida, however we do have a different type of Brucellosis which resides in the feral hog population. The risk still remains for any consuming raw goats milk from areas outside the state or country.

  1. Campylobacteriosis:

Ah, Campylobacter jejuni – the unwelcome guest lurking in goat intestines. Ingestion of contaminated raw milk can unleash a torrent of gastrointestinal distress, including diarrhea and abdominal pain. Maintain rigorous hygiene practices to keep this bug at bay. Campylobacter can also be found in other types of raw food–raw chicken a common culprit. Many farm animals can harbor this bacteria with no visible symptoms, so it is wise to treat all as potentially infected. Centers for Disease Control reports estimate 1.5 million people are infected with Campylobacter in the U.S yearly –yep, your mouse did her research!

  1. Salmonellosis:

Enter Salmonella, the insidious intruder that can infiltrate goat milk with alarming ease. Imbibe raw milk tainted with Salmonella, and you’ll find yourself grappling with symptoms like diarrhea and fever. This bug is especially dangerous to anyone with a compromised immune system– so children, older adults, pregnant people, and those with immune-mediated disease. Rigorous sanitation protocols and pasteurization are non-negotiable in safeguarding your milk supply.

  1. Listeriosis:

Meet Listeria monocytogenes, the stealthy saboteur of the bacterial world. Consumption of contaminated raw milk can trigger listeriosis, a potentially severe illness characterized by fever and muscle aches. Maintaining impeccable farm hygiene is paramount in mitigating this risk. Listeria can also make goats sick, most commonly with a neurologic brain disease called encephalitis, but it can also lead to abortion.

Whinny Wisdom – A direct quote from the FDA: Pregnant women run a serious risk of becoming ill from the bacteria Listeria, which is often found in raw milk and can cause miscarriage, or illness, or death of the newborn baby. If you are pregnant, drinking raw milk — or eating foods made from raw milk, such as Mexican-style cheese like Queso Blanco or Queso Fresco — can harm your baby even if you don’t feel sick.* Click here to read the article

  1. Cryptosporidiosis:

Enter Cryptosporidium, the minuscule menace with a knack for causing chaos. Ingestion of raw milk contaminated with Cryptosporidium can lead to cryptosporidiosis, marked by watery diarrhea and nausea. Vigilant husbandry practices are essential to ward off this microscopic threat. Even so, don’t be surprised if you come into contact with crypto if you keep goats or cattle, especially in more intensive systems like dairies. These teensy tiny protozoal parasites are very hard to remove from the environment and remain infective for quite a long time. They are so prevalent, in fact, that crypto is considered a common infection (and reason for missed class) of vet students who work with livestock.

  1. Q Fever:

Brace yourselves for Q Fever, courtesy of the elusive Coxiella burnetii. Consume raw milk teeming with this bacterium, and you’re in for a turbulent ride marked by high fever, severe headache, chest pain, and other flu-like signs. Q fever can also be spread through birthing fluids, placenta, and aborted fetal material from goats and sheep. Not every person exposed to this bug will become ill, but those that do are typically down for the count for 1-2 weeks. Pasteurization and robust biosecurity measures during kidding season offer your best defense against this insidious foe.

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If I haven’t made you lactose-intolerant with my words, let’s talk about how to avoid these risks. Hint, it involves heat! Pasteurization is a widely used process that kills harmful bacteria by heating milk to a specific temperature for a set period of time. First developed by Louis Pasteur in 1864, pasteurization kills harmful organisms like those we’ve discussed so far. Don’t fret if you only have a few milking does and not a large factory. Pasteurization can be done relatively simply at home with a few simple tools!

Whinny Wisdom – Pasteurization does not change the nutritional value of milk, no matter what the sign at the Farmer’s Market says.

Pasteurization Process for Home Use:

  1. Wash hands and prepare a clean work area.
  2. Boil all containers and lids in water for at least 2-3 minutes to sterilize them.
  3. Using a double boiler, fill the bottom chamber with water and the top with your raw milk.
  4. Heat the double boiler up slowly on the stove. From here you have two options:
    • Heat the milk to at least 150F for at least 30 minutes
    • Heat the milk to at least 162F for at least 15 seconds
  5. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature and stir the milk regularly. Do not rest the thermometer on the bottom or sides of the pot.
  6. If the temperature drops below the goal temperature at any point, you must start timing again.
  7. Put the top part of the double boiler in an ice water bath (don’t get water in the milk) to cool it fast. Stir the milk often to cool it faster, until it reaches 68°F or cooler.
  8. Pour the cooled milk into your sterilized containers right away and store in the fridge. It is recommended to label the containers with the date pasteurized.      So, there you have it – the raw truth about raw goat milk. While the allure of unpasteurized milk may be tempting, remember that safety should always reign supreme. So, embrace pasteurization, uphold impeccable hygiene, and savor your milk without the microbial mayhem. Stay smart, stay safe, and above all, stay vigilant, my fellow dairy enthusiasts! And if you aren’t subscribed to my blog, just scroll down a bit to the big purple box!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Do you know about the Companion Animal Clinic here at Springhill Equine? That’s right! Our clinic is a whole lot bigger than it used to be, and we now have a full small animal hospital! So in addition to your horses, donkeys, and goats, we’re ready to provide full veterinary care for your dogs and cats. Just give us a call to schedule your appointment at 352-472-1620. You can check out our new facility in this video:

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Housing Livestock Species

Housing Livestock Species

May 8, 2023 | Barns, Goats and Sheep, Pastures

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi there, Whinny here! I may be small, but I know a thing or two about living quarters, being nimble enough to explore them and all. If you’re new to horses or livestock you may not know how they want to live. Housing seems like a simple thing, but who lives with who and how much space they have can be really important. In this article, I’ll share some tips and tricks for creating a cozy and comfortable home for your large animals. So grab a piece of cheese and settle in, because we’re about to get started!

General Housing Principles

Large animals like horses, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, alpacas, and pigs (oh my!) need plenty of space to move around and exercise. Make sure your pastures, stalls, or whatever area they live in are large enough to accommodate your animals comfortably. These areas should also be kept clean. It’s fairly obvious that stalls need to be cleaned (Tony says they’re basically just giant litter boxes), but paddocks and pastures often need to be cleaned of excess manure too. Plus, it’s really important to walk your property often looking for stuff that shouldn’t be there like trash, metal scraps, roofing nails, and bailing twine.

Every animal needs access to fresh, clean water at all times. Make sure you’re regularly (daily is ideal) dumping, scrubbing, and refilling buckets and water troughs. Horses and livestock need shelter from the elements, including sun, wind, rain, and snow (I’ve never experienced that last one but I hear it’s extra chilly!). This can be in the form of stalls, run-in sheds, or sometimes really nice tree cover is enough.

Every place is a little different, and the needs of your animals may vary depending on the climate, terrain, and other factors. Our doctors and technicians here are always happy to chat about the best management plan for your individual situation when we’re there seeing your crew. Let’s get into some specifics for the different species now!

Horses

The amount of space required for horses depends on a variety of factors, including the size of the animal, the breed, and the level of activity. In general, horses need enough space to move around, lie down, and access food and water. For horses that are kept in stalls, the recommended stall size is around 12 feet by 12 feet, although larger stalls may be needed for larger horses.

For horses that are kept in pastures, the recommended amount of space is typically around 1-2 acres per horse, but many appreciate more than that. Horses also need access to shelter, such as a barn or run-in shed, to protect them from the elements (and house their mousey friends). It’s very important to keep horses in a clean and well-ventilated environment to prevent the spread of disease. If you’re building a barn, always consider air flow and drainage. My docs made a video about barn design that you’ll enjoy, so I’ll put a link in my P.S. at the end.

Cattle

Most cattle are comfortable living outside most of the time as long as they have shade and protection from the elements. For beef type cattle in a production setting, the recommended amount of space is around 250-500 square feet per animal, depending on the size of the animal. For dairy type cattle on a working farm, the recommended amount of space is around 100-150 square feet per animal. For pet cows, generally 1-2 acres per cow is most comfortable.

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If you are going to house cattle on your property and you expect to get any vet care ever (especially from our team here), it is *required* that you have handling facilities. Cows are really big! I know I’m a mouse, but even compared to you humans they are large and dangerous. While pet cows may allow you to pet them for food or scritches, when our doctors come at them with needles and stethoscopes they often end up at the other side of however many acres they have. The best plan for facilities involves a chute or head catch that are in a location the cattle can be directed into. These facilities can be part of the cows normal life and you can practice pushing them through on days when they aren’t needed so it becomes routine.

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Sheep and Goats

Sheep and goats are great pets! The most ideal situation is for them to have both barn space and pasture space. They can definitely be kept together, but they are handled a bit differently, so it may be easier to keep sheep with sheep and goats with goats. Barn space should allow for at least 20 square feet per animal and pasture space should provide at least 300 square feet of usable space for each animal.

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It’s important to provide a variety of surfaces for sheep and goats. Goats especially absolutely love to climb, so if you can get them a boulder, stump, log, or other elevated surface to play on they will appreciate it. Both sheep and goats benefit from having textured ground such as gravel or roofing tiles in a commonly used area of the pasture to help wear down their feet in between hoof trims. Sheep tend to stay where they are put if they are left alone, but goats are always looking to go on an adventure. They require tall fencing that has only small gaps (no horse horizontal board fencing!) and is well reinforced.  

Whinny Wisdom: If you throw water at a fence and it makes it through, so will a determined goat! 

Camelids

Camelids that are kept as pets generally include llamas and alpacas. Yes, these are different critters! Llamas tend to be larger, have a longer nose, be more independent, and more commonly don’t need no drama. Alpacas are smaller and flightier with a much softer fiber. Camelids as a group technically includes old world camelids such as dromedaries and bactrians, however they should really not be kept as pets, so we won’t talk anymore about them.

Llamas and alpacas have similar space requirements. When they are kept in a barn, they require at least 50-60 square feet per animal. Their pastures should provide around 200-400 square feet per animal. Many times they are kept out all the time, and it’s a good rule to have no more than 5-10 llamas and alpacas per acre of land. If you plan to breed your camelids or will have intact animals, eventually you will need a total of four separate pastures: one for females, one for weanlings, one for young males, and one for adult males.

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Alpacas and llamas really shouldn’t be housed with other animals. You can, but most of the other animals I’ve discussed here have vastly different nutrition requirements to camelids, which would mean they couldn’t be fed together. This isn’t a nutrition article, but remember that all-stock feed is good for no stock you need. The larger large animals like cattle and horses can easily injure camelids which can put a major damper on them living together.

Pigs

Pigs can be popular farm animals and pets, but can present some unique challenges. They are pretty smart, just like your mouse here, and can often be great escape artists. For pigs that are kept in pastures, the recommended amount of space is around 200-300 square feet per animal. Pigs can be kept in a barn for part of the day but absolutely need access to the outdoors for a chunk of the day so they can root in the dirt, roll in the mud, and do other fun piggy things.

Well, that’s all! Thanks for learning about your animals’ house from a mouse! If you have any questions drop a comment or ask one of our veterinarians the next time they’re out seeing your animals. Cheese you next week!

~ Whinny

P.S. Here’s a link to that Barn Design Video I mentioned. My docs have a ton of great video content over on our YouTube Channel, so make sure you check it out!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Blocked Goats and Sheep 101

Blocked Goats and Sheep 101

Nov 14, 2022 | Goats and Sheep, Urinary Blockage

Tuesdays with Tony

A few weeks ago, we talked about being extra careful to monitor your male cats’ litter box usage due to the risk of urinary obstruction. We’re now going to talk about a similar topic in a different (louder, much less refined) species: goats and sheep. While the general problem is the same, the specifics are a bit different, so let’s get into it.

This disease is an unfortunately common one of the castrated male small ruminant, and is known as obstructive urolithiasis, though more simply called urinary blockage. For the purposes of this review, I’ll mostly be talking about goats because they tend to be the main pet species around here, but the same things apply to sheep.

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A quick terminology review for the uninitiated human: intact male goats are known as bucks, intact male sheep are known as rams, and castrated males of either species are known as wethers. There’s a saying that goes around the sheep and goat circles: “friends don’t let friends have pet wethers.” I don’t know why anyone would want to be owned by anything other than a cat, but perhaps I’m biased.

Wethers have a bad habit of accumulating grit and stones in their urinary tract due to diet and inadequate water intake. The disease is most common in the castrated males because the lack of testosterone prevents widening of their urethra at specific points. This means there are a few very, very narrow areas along the offramp from the bladder where they can get a fatal traffic jam!

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so let’s go over prevention of obstructive urolithiasis in wethers. Well, it can start as simply as when they become wethers. Waiting to have a veterinarian surgically castrate a buckling until he’s 6-7 months of age is ideal as it will give him more time for his urethra to mature and widen. The important caveat to this is that bucklings can become fertile as early as 3-4 months of age, so they’ll need to be separated from female goats (including their mother) for that time to prevent unwanted pregnancies. If separation is not possible, surgical castration at 3-4 months is still preferred over banding as birth control for pet animals.

If you do have a wether, especially if he was castrated very early, the easiest and most effective prevention strategy is to ONLY feed him roughage and browse. Translated: no grain; none, zero, zilch. Pet wethers don’t need it, ever. Also, avoid feeding them too much alfalfa hay. Instead, feed them a nice grass hay and let them browse. Goats are natural browsers and prefer eating shrubs, bushes, and trees that are more than 6-8 inches above the ground. They would absolutely love to clear wooded areas of your property for you, and that browse is the healthiest thing for them to eat.

There are dietary supplements that can be used in certain situations, especially if goats need to be on concentrate feeds for showing or other reasons. Talk to your veterinarian for details about what is best for your herd, but your average pet wether will do his best by just browsing the pasture and being supplemented with a decent quality grass hay.

There are a few different types of stones that goats can develop, but it will be difficult for them to develop any stones if their urine is dilute. This means you have to encourage your goats and sheep to drink water, and monitor them to make sure they do.

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There should be multiple clean water sources in each area where livestock are housed, and they should be cleaned out regularly. White water tubs draw your human eyes to dirt and debris, since you don’t have discerning taste like a cat does. Automatic waterers are great, but only if they work well and are clean. Sheep especially will be unwilling to leave the flock for a faraway water source, so make sure there are multiple sources near the food to limit competition.

Even with proper dietary management and plenty of water sources, some wethers are just unlucky–they don’t have 9 lives like me–and they can still develop this condition and block. So now let’s talk about how to figure out if your goat might be blocked and what to do about it.  

First off, any time a wether isn’t acting like himself, the very first thing to rule out is urinary blockage. Watch him for a bit to see if you can see him urinating or trying to urinate. If you have the ability to move him to a freshly bedded stall, that will often be enough to encourage a goat to urinate. I get it, a fresh litter box is one of life’s greatest joys. Vocalizing while urinating is not normal for goats or sheep, neither is parking out and positioning without producing any urine. Seeing either of those things most definitely warrants a call to that veterinarian you have a great relationship with.

Now, here comes the not-so-exciting news. Most of the time, urinary blockage in wethers requires referral to a hospital for surgical management. If it’s his first time blocking and he isn’t super down in the dumps yet, your veterinarian may be able to come out remove something called the urethral process, which is the final part of his urinary tract, and sometimes is the source of the blockage. This procedure requires sedation and pain management and should only be done by a veterinary professional. Many wethers will block again after this procedure, and soon, but it can sometimes buy time to get them to a hospital for surgical management.

If urinary stones are obtained from removing the urethral process or found in the preputial hair, they should be submitted to the scientist-type humans for analysis. This stone analysis, plus a review of diet and management, are the necessary steps to determining what interventions the wether will need to prevent re-obstruction in the future. Calcium carbonate stones are very hard to manage, but removing sources of high calcium like alfalfa can be beneficial. Struvite type stones can be managed by acidifying the urine through dietary supplementation as directed by your veterinarian.

There is no one plan that will work for all goats or sheep, all stones, or all situations to prevent re-obstruction. The best plan is good husbandry and management of all goats: stop feeding grain, offer grass hay or pasture, and make sure they have more than adequate access to clean, fresh water. Use a goat or sheep-specific mineral and not one meant for horses or other livestock. Management matters, as does having a great relationship with your veterinarian.

If you’re in Springhill’s practice range, that veterinarian can be Dr. Speziok. She offers Herd Evaluations for goats and sheep that allow for the creation of an individualized management plan for your specific situation. Give my minions a call at 352-472-1620 to make an appointment.

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. As a goat person, you’ll definitely want to check out the goat videos on my YouTube Channel. My docs will teach you how to do a FAMACHA score to check for parasites, check your goat or sheep’s body condition score, and more. Make sure you subscribe to the channel, as new content goes up every month. You’re welcome.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Sheep and Goat Parasite Management

Sheep and Goat Parasite Management

Aug 22, 2022 | Deworming, Goats and Sheep

Tuesdays with Tony

I’ve waxed poetic more than once on parasite control in horses and donkeys, which I’ve summed up succinctly as: “deworm less.” Well, today I’m here to talk about that same thing in goats and sheep (spoiler alert, the sum-up will be similar). Dr. Speziok has only been here for a few months, but I’ve already listened to her spiel on small ruminant parasites more times than I can count. So, let’s talk about the major parasites of our cloven-hooved friends and, more importantly, how to manage them.

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Let’s Meet the Contestants

There are four different worms that love to cause problems in ruminant guts, and just like the boy bands of yesteryear, they have an acronym: HOTC.

HOTC stands for: Haemonchus, Ostertagia, Trichostrongylus, and Cooperia. These “big four” cause all kinds of issues for sheep and goats and can make them very, very sick. We talk about them as a group because when we do our fecal egg counts (similar, but a bit more complicated to the fecals we do on horses once a year), they all look the same under the microscope, so we count them together.

In most sheep and goats, the species called Haemonchus contortus is the main player. Otherwise known as the Barberpole worm, it lives in the abomasum (the last chamber of the 4-chamber stomach) and small intestine and sucks blood for a living.

What Do They Do?

These tiny-but-mighty blood feeders lead to anemia, edema, emaciation, and GI distress. Sheep and goats can lose weight, have pale mucous membranes, high FAMACHA scores, and bottle jaw.

These pesky pests can even hide in their hosts by going into a dormant state called hypobiosis when they sense the weather would be unfavorable for eggs on the pasture. In the south, this is basically only the hottest part of summer, but even then they never really go away. In this hypobiotic state, the larvae are significantly more resistant to dewormers and only a few products even stand a chance against them.

Why do sheep and goats seem so sensitive to their little intestinal passengers? Well, they mostly evolved to live on mountain tops away from warm, moist environments that harbor parasites. So when we bring them to the southeastern US, their little guts have no idea what to do with all these worms!

Drug Resistance

Unfortunately, just like with horses, you humans used to think that deworming very often and with rotating products was the way to go. It was very much not, as we know now, and it has only worsened the major parasite resistance issues we’re dealing with.

Doctor’s orders here: avoid deworming on any type of routine or schedule. Deworming needs to be targeted and adjusted based on individual animals as directed by the veterinarian you have a great relationship with. Parasite resistance is a very large, very real problem that we can only fight by being strategic. What works for one farm will not work for another, and the history of an individual animal is vital to making these protocol decisions. No more blanket approach!

FAMACHA Score

One of the most important skills and duties of a sheep or goat owner is to perform regular FAMACHA score checks. No, that’s not another boy band. It’s an anemia scoring system developed in South Africa to help small ruminant owners monitor the health of their animals. I’ve watched Dr. Speziok demonstrate this system to just about every goat owner that’s come to Springhill, so make sure your veterinarian shows you how to do it! FAMACHA scores are judged by the mucous membranes on the inside of the lower eyelids.

To expose the mucous membranes, have the animal in an area with good light and use an assistant to help restrain them if necessary. Use the thumb of your upper hand to COVER the eye, then to PUSH the eye slightly into the socket. Use the thumb of your lower hand to PULL the lower eyelid down, and watch the mucous membranes POP into view. This does not hurt the animal, and if it’s done weekly or monthly on a regular basis, it will become routine for them.

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The basic premise of FAMACHA is the darker the pink color of those mucous membranes, the better the goat is doing. The details of the scoring system and how it is used is one of those things that are best learned in person, so have your veterinarian show you how to use this scoring system next time you see them.

Deworming Protocols

Protocols will vary based on an individual herd or flock, but the main point is that all deworming of small ruminants should be based on the individual animals’ FAMACHA score and their fecal egg count. Checking those mucous membrane colors can become part of your farm routine, and when they are pale, collect a fecal sample for your veterinarian to analyze. Those two things together determine when a dewormer should be used. If there are resistance issues on your farm, your veterinarian may need you to give two different dewormers at the same time. This attacks those annoying worms from multiple attack angles, giving us a better chance of killing them.

I know you humans love to focus on the medications we animals need, but management strategies are often the most important things you can do. Feeding sheep and goats above the ground and keeping their pens clean will help prevent them from reinfecting themselves and each other with the parasites they shed. If you are breeding your small ruminants, do not breed those that constantly require deworming. Try to have dams lamb or kid in a clean, dry pen with minimal other adult animals.

Work with your veterinarian to manage the overall health of your animals, which will help them better fight off parasites. Dr. Speziok is now offering a herd/flock evaluation where you can learn some awesome tips and tricks for making your small ruminants as happy and healthy as they can be!

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. Have you subscribed to my blog, or are you just hoping that you’ll see it on Facebook? Be a good human and scroll down to that big purple box and subscribe, and not only will you get my blog in your email, you’ll get it a day before everyone else! That’s a purr-fect reason if you ask me.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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