Coggins and Health Certificates

Coggins and Health Certificates

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Neigh there, friends! It’s Whinny, your wise clinic mouse, here to chat about an important topic for all our equine buddies: Coggins tests and health certificates. If you’ve ever planned to travel with your horse or take them to events, you’ve probably heard these terms. But do you know why they’re so important? Let’s dive into the details.

What Is a Coggins Test?

A Coggins test checks for Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA), a viral disease that’s serious and potentially life-threatening for horses. This disease spreads through blood-sucking insects like horseflies and deer flies, making it essential to identify carrier horses. A Coggins test ensures horses participating in shows, events, or traveling between states are EIA-free, helping protect all the other horses attending, not to mention all the horses those horses might contact in the weeks after the event. You see how quickly this could spiral!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

EIA first appeared in the United States in the 19th century, devastating the horse population. It wasn’t until the 1970s that Dr. Leroy Coggins developed a reliable test to identify horses infected with EIA, which became a game-changer for disease control. Before the widespread use of the Coggins test, outbreaks could sweep through entire barns and communities, causing severe economic and emotional tolls on horse owners. Today, thanks to decades of diligent testing and regulation, cases of EIA have become rare, but vigilance remains essential to prevent outbreaks. Rare does not equal eradicated!

Whinny’s Wisdom: If you’re a barn owner, it’s essential to require a current Coggins test from all boarders. This simple step helps prevent potential EIA outbreaks that could devastate your entire barn community. Ensuring that all horses are EIA-free is a key part of responsible management and helps foster a safe, healthy environment for all horses on the property.

 Coggins Tests Need to Be Repeated Annually

Coggins tests are only valid for one year, and there’s a reason for that. A horse that tests negative one year could still become infected later. Annual testing helps catch new cases and ensures that horses remain EIA-free when they are most likely to interact with others at events, shows, or during travel. Regular testing helps maintain a healthy, safe equine community and reduces the risk of undetected carriers.  

Coggins testing isn’t just any blood test—it’s regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) to ensure accuracy and reliability. Only certified laboratories are permitted to perform Coggins tests to maintain strict quality standards. Here at Springhill Equine, we’re proud to be a certified Coggins testing lab, which means we can quickly and efficiently run these tests in-house for our clients. This helps ensure that your horse’s results are accurate and returned to you as swiftly as possible.

What Are Health Certificates? 

Health certificates, often called Certificates of Veterinary Inspection (CVI), are documents issued by a veterinarian to verify that your horse is healthy and free of contagious diseases before traveling. They’re typically required for interstate travel and participation in most equine events.

Think of health certificates as a passport for your horse. They ensure that your horse isn’t carrying or spreading diseases to new areas, which is especially important when horses from different places come together. This not only protects the horses but also helps control potential outbreaks that could affect local and regional equine health. 

Health certificates must be issued within 10 days of travel to ensure the most up-to-date health status. They’re generally valid for 30 days, as horses’ health can change quickly, and this timeframe minimizes the risk of a horse developing or spreading illness after the exam. The veterinarian performing the exam will check for signs of illness, take the horse’s temperature, and assess overall health.

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What Happens If You Skip Them?

Traveling without a current Coggins test or health certificate can result in fines or being turned away from events and state borders. More importantly, it puts other horses at risk. Following these regulations keeps your horse safe and your travel plans smooth.

Keeping up with Coggins tests and health certificates isn’t just about paperwork; it’s about being a responsible horse owner and protecting the community. The USDA’s regulations and the use of certified labs help ensure the safety and health of all horses. At Springhill Equine, we’re here to make the process as smooth and efficient as possible, so you and your horse can stay on track for your adventures. Your horse deserves to stay healthy and happy, and so do their friends.

Have questions about getting your horse tested or need a health certificate for your next trip? Our team is always here to help!

Until next time, keep those manes flowing and hooves trotting! 🐴

~Whinny

P.S. If you’d like to know more about Equine Infectious Anemia, or any other horse-health topic, scroll down a bit and check out our Podcast! You can click on the Play button to listen to any episode, and it’s all free! The EIA episode is Season 4 Episode 9.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Dog and Cat Dental Care 101

Dog and Cat Dental Care 101

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! Dental care is a vital component of companion animal medicine, and requires teamwork. You, as the pet owner, my docs as…well, the doctor, and even your dog or cat! Of course, their cooperation will be based on the training you do to get them comfortable with their regular physical exams. My docs have great anesthetic protocols for the actual dental work so that we don’t have to rely on your dog saying “ahhhhhh!”

Dental care starts at the very first puppy or kitten wellness visit. Your pet’s doctor will take a close look in their mouth at their sharp baby teeth to make sure they are all in the right space and not too crowded. When their adult teeth start to come in, sometimes they don’t lose their baby teeth on time. These are called “retained deciduous” teeth, and need to be extracted by your pet’s vet or they can cause damage to the permanent teeth. Small dogs and cats and especially brachycephalic (squishy-faced) animals always need earlier and more involved dental care than their long snooted counterpoints.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Brachycephalic animals have to fit the same structures (42 teeth, tongue, gums, & sinuses) in a space that is often less than half the size of what it should be based on their body size. This causes all kinds of issues, as you might imagine!

I’ve been hanging out inside the small animal treatment room at the clinic lately (playing hide and seek with Puglsy and Wednesday, the clinic cats, is great fun!). I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard Dr. Speziok tell someone that it is always better to address dental issues early—including preventive care!

Lots of you that read my blog are probably horse owners, and if your horse is a patient at Springhill Equine then they most likely have a dental every year. Tell me, gentlefolks, why should your clawed friends be treated differently than your hooved friends? The answer is that they all need regular dental care!

 That’s right, starting at between 1-3 years of age—depending on size and breed—dogs and cats should have a dental once per year. This isn’t just coming from your best mouse friend, but from the American Animal Hospital Association and the World Small Animal Veterinary Association. Here’s a quote from WSAVA: “Regular, thorough, quality dental care is necessary to provide optimum health and quality of life in veterinary patients.”

Dog and cat teeth are a bit different than your teeth (and way different than my cute chompers, and way, way different than your horse’s!) in that they don’t often get cavities or need root canals, but instead they build up tartar and plaque which then leads to “periodontal” disease, which is disease around the tooth and under the gum line.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Multiple studies show that around 80% of dogs and 70% of cats have evidence of periodontitis by two years old.

Things To Avoid Like The Plague

While we’re on the topic of what these big veterinary associations say, let’s briefly discuss anesthesia-free dental scaling.” Much like “lay floaters” in the equine world, this is totally inappropriate. Just like lay floaters will stick random files in horse mouths with no sedation and claim to be a “dentist,” there are companies that will run a scaler over the exposed parts of dog teeth to crack off the obvious calculus and call that “dentistry.” It’s definitely not dentistry.

Can you tell they aren’t my favorite?

Like we talked about earlier, the majority of disease occurs under the gum line in our pets, which means we need to direct the scaling there. This is not a particularly comfortable sensation, and can be quite painful if there is disease present. Not to mention, the scaler emits a jet of water to cool the teeth and push away plaque, which could be inhaled by your dog if their airway isn’t protected. At best, these companies are doing something that is only hiding the problem and doesn’t help your pet (but does help their bank account), and at worst, they could seriously hurt your pet, cause infection, and give them a ton of trauma around handling their painful mouth while not addressing any of it. So don’t ever use them. (Don’t use lay floaters on your horses either, but that’s a different blog, written by Tony himself, and you can read it here.)

Know The Dental Basics For Your Critters

Now that we’ve gotten that elephant out of the way, how can you do the right thing by your dogs and cats to keep their teeth shiny and healthy?

  1. Regular veterinary visits to address all of their preventive health needs.
  2. Brush their teeth! Ideally every day, but any amount of brushing you can do is helpful.
  3. Feed food or treats recommended by the Veterinary Oral Health Council to prevent dental disease.
  4. Dental cleanings and treatments under anesthesia by your veterinarian as recommended by them—usually yearly or every other year, starting when your pet is young.
  5. If you notice a broken tooth, bad breath smell, or other abnormality, bring them in to your vet for a tooth check.
  6. Handle their mouth and muzzle often to get them used to showing off their smile, so that it’s no big deal when their doctor takes a peak.

Companion Animal Care at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

What Happens At A Dental Visit?

What all goes in to one of these dental procedures at the vet? Well, anesthesia is necessary, so your pet should be fasted overnight, then dropped off at the clinic in the morning to stay for the day. Usually, our awesome techs collect some bloodwork and run it while the doctor is prepping for the day. Then, your pet is examined to be sure they’re healthy and fit for their procedure. The team gives medicine to help relax your pet, and then an IV catheter is placed in one of their legs. This allows us to give fluids and medication during the procedure without having to hunt for a vein.

Once bloodwork is done, the team is ready, and safety checklists are complete, your pet will be induced with another injectable drug, this time into their catheter, then they’ll be intubated—which just means a tube is placed in their airway to secure it and provide oxygen. This is super important, because like we talked about earlier, we use lots of water and push out lots of tartar. We really don’t want that going into the lungs, because it can cause pneumonia.

Once they are anesthetized and hooked up to all the monitors with their dedicated anesthesia technician diligently recording their vitals, they get x-rays taken of the roots of every one of their teeth. Then the doctor probes each tooth in multiple places to look for disease and pocketing. The combination of these two things is how the treatment plan is made, and each tooth gets its own treatment plan! Most of the time, that treatment plan will be a good scale and polish (which isn’t just for looks but buffs out the scratches from the scaler). But if a tooth has any level of disease, then we might give it an extra deep clean, instill antibiotic into the gum, or the doctor might extract it.

Luckily, dogs and cats don’t tend to care about a few missing teeth, and they can typically eat just fine after their procedure even with some gaps. After they wake up from anesthesia, they recover at the clinic for a few hours and then go back home with you!

Folks, the tooth is this: your pets need quality dental care by their veterinarian, and they need it starting young, and repeated often! You can call the office to schedule a dental appointment for any or all of your critters (except human children, the docs draw the line there!) at 352-472-1620.

Make sure you bring a bit of cheese for Your’s Truly!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If your dogs and cats aren’t in our computer system yet, you can fill out this form and get their info to us ahead of time! That way when you’re ready to make an appointment for them, it will all be ready to go! And make sure you check out our podcast below for all the horse health knowledge you could ever ask for, for free!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Dog and Cat Food 101

Dog and Cat Food 101

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Pet Food 101: Decoding Labels and Serving Sizes

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wondrous writing by me! Whinny, the Official Clinic Mouse of Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic and Companion Animal Care. Dr. Speziok is our dog and cat vet, and I don’t know if I’ve ever heard her get through an appointment in our exam rooms without discussing diet in one way or another.

Pet food can be a hot topic, and there’s apparently lots of opinions on the FaceMouse and InstaCheese about how dogs and cats “should” be fed. It’s true, diet is one of the most important factors in overall health, and dogs and cats rely on their human staff—err, companions—to provide that food. Contrary to popular internet belief, your pet dogs and cats are not wild animals, and generally aren’t hunting for themselves. So, you go to the store and buy their food for them, which I think means you’d better understand a bit of what you’re buying!

Whinny’s Wisdom: Dogs diverged from wolves between 30-40,000 years ago! They have not only changed their size and behavior, but their dietary needs as well. Dogs have evolved alongside humans, which means as you lot learned to cook, they evolved to eat cooked food.

Understanding Pet Food Labels

When it comes to feeding our pets, one of the most important yet often overlooked aspects is understanding pet food labels. These labels contain vital information that helps us ensure our furry friends receive balanced and nutritious meals. Key terms to look for include protein, fat, fiber, and moisture, each of which plays a crucial role in a pet’s diet.

Protein is essential for growth and repair of tissues in the body,

Fat provides energy,

Fiber aids digestion, and

Moisture helps keep pets hydrated.

Interpreting the ingredient list and guaranteed analysis can be tricky. It’s also important to understand that the ingredient list is not a recipe, but a summary of what’s included in the food, listed by weight. While the order can give some indication of the primary ingredients, it doesn’t directly tell you the nutritional value. Ingredients like meat by-products are not inherently bad and can be valuable sources of nutrition. The guaranteed analysis section of the label is where you find the minimum or maximum levels of key nutrients like protein and fat, which helps you gauge the nutritional profile of the food. By understanding these labels, you can make more informed choices that contribute to your pet’s overall health and well-being.

When you pick up a bag or can of food in the store, the first thing to confirm is that it is even appropriate as a sole diet for your pet. If it is, it will have an AAFCO label. AAFCO is the Association of American Feed Control Officials. This group is not a regulatory agency, but is a council made up of researchers, veterinarians, and government officials. They use the latest science to set standards for minimums and maximums of nutrients for pet foods.

For a manufacturer to be able to put an AAFCO label on their prodcut, they must prove it meets AAFCO’s nutrient profile standards and is complete and balanced. There are two methods to evaluate whether a food meets these standards:

  • Nutrient Content Analysis: a laboratory analyzed a small sample of the food to verify it meets AAFCO’s standards. If it does, the label will read “[Product Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles.”
  • AAFCO-Compliant Feeding Trial: this method includes feeding trials with real dogs to demonstrate the food’s nutritional values in addition to the above laboratory analysis. If this method was used, the label will read “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that [Product Name] provides complete and balanced nutrition.”

Both statements are considered by the FDA to guarantee the food is complete and balanced, but if there’s any question, foods that have gone through a feeding trial probably have a bit more merit. AAFCO labels are voluntary and are not required for a bag of food to be on the shelf, so check for them as the first step to evaluating food.

Feeding Guide

Feeding guidelines on pet food packaging are not arbitrary numbers; they are carefully calculated based on a pet’s age, weight, and activity level to ensure they receive the correct amounts of essential nutrients, vitamins, and amino acids. These recommended daily allowances are designed to meet the nutritional needs of your pet at different life stages. For example, a growing puppy requires different nutrient levels compared to an adult or senior dog. Feeding less or more of an adult food is not the same as feeding a puppy food. Starting with these guidelines is crucial for maintaining your pet’s health, but remember that each animal is an individual, so amounts should be tailored to them.

You humans tend to prefer your four legged friends on the fluffy side, as opposed to the athletic side, so the daily feeding recommendations lean high (horse people, I know you feel me on this!). If your pet is gaining weight on a food, cutting back by 10-15% can be acceptable, but if you’re finding yourself feeding way less (or way more) than the bag recommends, we have a problem. Underfeeding may result in nutrient deficiencies, while overfeeding can cause obesity and related conditions. It’s important to understand that the recommended amount is set to provide a balanced diet, ensuring they get the right mix of protein, fats, vitamins, and minerals. Always measure your pet’s food accurately, and pay attention to what calories they are getting that are not in their bowl.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic and Companion Animal Care

Some Reminders

Veterinarians are not “bought” by pet food companies.

Veterinarians are not “bought” by pet food companies.

[Do I need to squeak it a third time?]

Large pet food companies—Hill’s Science Diet, Royal Canin, and Purina—are recommended by veterinarians (including our docs!) because they work. Those companies have had many years to put research and money into creating healthy food for your pets. Purina, as an example, has 8 veterinarians on their leadership team. These larger, more experienced companies also tend to have better quality testing then smaller boutique companies.

Dogs and cats do not need to switch up their food regularly, as a general rule. In fact, changing foods can lead to gastrointestinal issues. Most dogs and cats do much better on the same food and same flavor and appreciate the consistency. Many dogs (usually the cute, small, fluffy ones) are really good at training their people (YOU) to switch their food or flavor all the time, but that is manipulation! A healthy pet will not starve themselves. If your pet is refusing food they’ve previously eaten well, and they are otherwise their normal selves with no vomiting or diarrhea or lethargy, then offer that food repeatedly, picking it back up after 20 minutes if they haven’t eaten it. If you always add a treat topper or switch the food when they refuse, then congratulations, you’ve been trained!

I could go on and on about diet, and maybe I will, let us know if you want more nutrition blogs (oh! what about an artisanal cheese article…), but I’ll cut myself off here for now (food pun intended!)

In good health and yummy food,

~Whinny

P.S. Not sure if your dog or cat is on an appropriate diet, or is even at a good body condition score? Make sure you ask Dr. Speziok about it when you are in for your next exam! Or when she comes by your house, because she does house calls for dogs and cats, too. That’s right, nothing but top shelf around here!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Cushings or PPID in Horses

Cushings or PPID in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey, everybody! Whinny checking in this week to discuss one of the most common diseases the Doctor’s here see in horses. I often hear them refer to it as Cushing’s. However, being a proper mouse I’m going to call it by its actual name: PPID. 

What is PPID?

PPID, or pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, is a disease that occurs when the pituitary gland, a small pea-sized structure at the base of the brain, produces too much of a hormone called ACTH. ACTH stimulates the adrenal glands to produce cortisol, which is a hormone that helps the body respond to stress. At least that’s how Cushing’s works in dogs and humans, two other species commonly affected by a similar syndrome. 

Horses have to be different and that’s why they get a special name for their version. You see, dogs and humans are affected in the anterior pituitary. Horses are affected in the intermediate, or pars intermedia, area of the pituitary. This area releases way more than just ACTH. It can release up to 5,000 different hormones. These hormones are largely responsible for maintaining the status quo of the body. They tell cells things like: it’s daytime, or nighttime, winter is coming, we should probably eat more, time to grow a lot of hoof, and on and on. All the things that make a body function day-to-day. The changes involved in PPID take time to occur. This means most, but not all, affected horses are over 15 years of age. 

Symptoms

PPID can cause a variety of symptoms in horses, and the severity of the symptoms can vary depending on the stage of the disease. Some common symptoms include:

    • Curly coat: The horse’s coat may become dull, dry, and curly. This is the most common symptom people think of with PPID horses, but I’m here to let you know it’s often one of the last ones horses develop! If this is the first sign you see, you’re probably late to the game.
    • Weight loss/weight gain: A change in weight that doesn’t make sense, up or down, often goes with PPID
  • Decreased performance: One of the first, very subtle signs, horses may show is decreased performance. That might show up as less power, speed, or endurance. 
  • Infections: Horses with PPID have a suppressed immune system. This makes them more susceptible to chronic infections of the skin and teeth. It also makes them more susceptible to internal parasites. 
  • Increased thirst and urination: Horses with PPID may drink more water and urinate more frequently.
  • Laminitis: PPID can increase the risk of laminitis. This is the scariest symptom of PPID. Its onset is often insidious. Yearly foot radiographs can help spot this symptom early!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Diagnostics

If you suspect that your horse may have PPID, it’s important to consult with one of our veterinarians. They can perform a physical examination and may recommend blood tests to measure the level of ACTH in the horse’s bloodstream. In some cases, a test called a TRH stimulation test may also be performed. This test involves administering a hormone called TRH, which should cause the pituitary gland to release ACTH. If the horse’s ACTH levels increase significantly after the TRH stimulation test, it may be a sign of PPID.

Treatments

There is no cure for PPID, but the condition can be managed with appropriate treatment. The goal of treatment is to help regulate the pituitary gland. This can be achieved through a combination of medications, dietary changes, and regular veterinary care.

  • Medications: There are several medications available to treat PPID, including pergolide and cyproheptadine. These medications can help to reduce the production of ACTH. Pergolid is a very picky medication that has to be manufactured and stored under very specific conditions! Be sure you are using a form that meets those requirements. In North America, only Prascend meets these conditions. 
  • Dietary changes: Horses with PPID may benefit from a diet that is low in carbohydrates and high in fiber. Many, but not all, horses with PPID also experience insulin resistance. If your horse has both, then a low starch diet will be necessary. 
  • Regular veterinary care: It’s important to monitor horses with PPID closely and to provide regular veterinary care. Regular check-ups looking for laminitis, those pesky infections, and fecal egg counts are very important, along with routine vaccinations. 

Conclusion

PPID is a complex condition that can affect horses of all breeds. While there is no cure, it can be managed with appropriate treatment. If you suspect that your horse may have PPID, it’s important to consult with our veterinarians for diagnosis and treatment. By working with our veterinarians, you can help your horse live a long and healthy life.

Well, that’s all for now, folks! I hope you learned something new about PPID. I’ll be back soon with more adventures from the veterinary clinic. Until then, stay curious and keep exploring!

Until next week,
~Whinny

P.S. If you want to know more about PPID, or just about anything else related to horse health, you should listen to the podcast my humans produce! It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth and you can listen to it right here on my website! Just click this link to go to the Podcast Page, scroll down through the episode list, and click play on whatever catches your eye. As a matter of fact, I’ll put a sampler right below here so you can check it out. Go ahead and click play on something, it won’t bite!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Scary Wounds on Horses

Scary Wounds on Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here, your resident field mouse reporter at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic! Today, I’m tackling a topic that’s a big deal around here – synovial structure infections in horses. Now, that might sound like a mouthful (it is for a little gal like me!), but it basically means infections in a horse’s joints, bursae (fluid-filled sacs near joints), and tendon sheaths (slippery tunnels around tendons). 

These infections can be super scary, and that’s why I wanted to shed some light on why. So, grab a crumb (if you’re a fellow critter) and settle in!

Why Are Synovial Structures Important?

Imagine a horse as a high-performance machine. Its joints, bursae, and tendon sheaths are like the smooth, oiled gears that keep everything moving perfectly. The synovial membrane lining these structures produces a special fluid that acts as a lubricant, reducing friction and keeping things comfy. That membrane is made up of tons of tiny little projections called villi which make the whole thing look like deep, lush carpeting. 

But sometimes, bacteria sneak into these synovial structures. This most often happens from a wound. These wounds can range from tiny punctures to big lacerations. Rarely, it happens from bacteria traveling around the bloodstream, and even rarer, after a surgery. Once inside, these bacteria are like party crashers, wreaking havoc. They multiply like crazy, causing inflammation, pain, and a whole lot of trouble.

The Domino Effect of Infection

Here’s where things get serious. Once bacteria have invaded the synovial membrane it can be almost impossible to get them out of that thick carpet. The infection can in turn damage the delicate synovial membrane, reducing that lubricating fluid. This, in turn, increases friction, leading to pain and stiffness. But it doesn’t stop there. The bacteria can also eat away at the cartilage, the smooth, white cushion protecting the bones at the joint’s ends. All the while the bacteria continue to multiply within the synovial membrane, and get even harder to remove. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Body’s Battleground

The horse’s body isn’t going down without a fight, though! It sends white blood cells, the body’s warriors, to battle the bacteria. This battle creates heat, which is why infected joints often feel hot to the touch. These tiny warriors only add to the problems with severe infections. The very chemicals they make to kill bacteria are also bad for cartilage! 

Now What?

The good news is that with early detection and aggressive treatment, most horses with synovial infections can make a full recovery. That’s why horse owners need to be vigilant!

  • If your horse has a wound, no matter how small, on their legs, take a picture and send it to us! 
  • If that wound is near a joint, tendon sheath, or bursa, your horse needs emergency care right away. We only have about 12 hours to get ahead of these infections.
  • Sudden lameness should also be a call to us for advice.

Battling the Beasts: How My Vets Fight Synovial Infections

The first step is checking to see if a synovial structure is affected. This is done by placing a needle into the area and putting a large amount of sterile fluid in. If the vets see fluid coming out of the wound, then they know a synovial structure is in big trouble. 

The next step is heading to a surgical hospital for a lavage. This is a powerful technique where sterile fluid is flushed through the infected joint or tendon sheath. It’s like giving the battlefield a thorough cleaning! Lavage helps remove bacteria, debris, and inflammatory cells, speeding up healing. As Dr. Lacher can be heard saying, “Dilution is the solution to pollution.” The surgeons will also treat the joint or tendon sheath with antibiotics at the end of the flush, and clean the wound really well. 

Next steps will be:

Antibiotics: They come in various forms, including oral medications, injections directly into the infected joint, and intravenous (through the vein) administration for severe cases. Most synovial infections will go on a combination of intravenous and direct treatments. 

Rest and Support: Stall rest is really important. We don’t want that damaged joint or tendon sheath to move around too much. Horses being delicate critters, the vets will also keep an eye on the opposite limb for something called support limb laminitis. 

Anti-inflammatories: These medications help reduce inflammation, pain, and swelling, making the horse more comfortable.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Getting Back To Work

Even after the bacteria are banished, the horse’s journey isn’t over. Those synovial membranes take time to heal. It can be 4-6 weeks after an injury for them to start producing that all-important lubricating fluid again. Think of it like a factory that needs to get all its machines back online. This means these horses will have a longer rehab period to regain strength and flexibility. It’ll be crucial to bring them back to work gradually, with frequent check-ups at the vet to make sure everything is healing properly. Just like any athlete recovering from a big injury, these horses need patience and a slow and steady approach to get back to their best.

We all know horses are delicate flowers. Their synovial structures are just another example. Being mindful of even tiny wounds on their long legs will ensure you catch problems quickly. Calling my vets with any laceration is never a bad idea. They love to see pictures! Remember, catching these infections early can mean the difference between a full recovery and a long, difficult journey back to health.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Wanna take a deep dive into joints? Check out S7E05 Equine Joint Health of Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth, my doc’s podcast! You’ll be an expert on equine joints in an hour! And once you make it through the 150+ episodes of the show, you’ll be an expert on the rest of the horse too! It’s right there below, just scroll back through the episode list to find it and hit Play. You can do it!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Cat Cohabitation

Cat Cohabitation

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wonderful edition of Whinny’s Wisdoms! One of these days the blog will actually be about mice (the very coolest species), but today, we’re talking about maybe the second coolest: cats. Specifically, cat cohabitation.

This probably won’t surprise you, but 40-70% of cat homes across the world have multiple cats. It’s easy to want to collect them once you see how warm and fuzzy they are. But there can absolutely be issues with welfare and stress if multi-cat homes are not managed properly. You know what I’m squeaking about: fighting, spraying, scratching up the furniture, even medical issues like urinary blockage or diarrhea.

More important than single cat vs multi cat are probably handling and husbandry styles, environmental disruption, socialization history of cats towards humans and other cats, and social stability of cat groups.

Most of you know we have a new Clinic Cat, Wednesday, who has been with us for a few months—I’ve been showing her the ropes—but if you’ve been to the clinic recently you may have also seen a little fluffball kitten who is starting to make his name known. Pugsley is the newest member of Springhill Equine, and is in Clinic Cat Bootcamp at the moment.

Our team has been careful to make the transition to cohabitation a peaceful one for our supurrrvisors, so you could say I’m just the expert you need!

Key Information and Tips

Always have one more litter box than the number of cats, and I’ll clarify that that should mean litter box location. Think about it: there’s still a line for the single bathroom in the stadium whether there’s one stall or ten, but if you have two to three bathrooms on different sides of the stadium then you don’t have to stand in line next to your class rival.

It should go without saying, but there also needs to be at least one food bowl per cat. Cats are big resource guarders as a species (I just try not to be the resource, you know what I mean?) so limiting the places and sources of their food is just asking for argument.

Most cats need and want vertical space in their household. Think about cat “highways” throughout the house—remember the Floor is Lava game? There should also be hiding spots for your kitties, but try to limit possible cornering zones, especially if you have a more forward cat and a more introverted one. This amazing cat wall by Catastrophicreations.com might be an extreme example of creating cat spaces, but you might be able get some ideas from it.

So you’re going to bring a new cat into the home? Well, first impressions are most important, so make sure to plan the introduction and think about potential avenues for trouble. The new cat needs their own space that the current tenants don’t have access to for a bit. Having a safe space of their own not only limits the chance for conflict but also lets them process the new smells and sounds of their home. As they spend time there and you go between their area and the rest of your home, that new smell will be spread around so your old cats “catch wind” of their new friend. You can also do things to swap scents—trading bedding or toys to start, and then eventually even swapping rooms for a spell. This will allow both old and new cats private time to process each other’s presence before meeting… like reading a resume before interviewing someone.

Speaking of smell, I’m sure you’ve heard me talk before about pheromone products. Feliway is the synthetic version of the pheromone cats secrete from their cheeks when they rub all over you and the corners of doorways and walls. That pheromone can only be smelled by them, but basically marks an area as “safe.” Well, they’ve also created a Felway Multicat which works by acting like a mother cat saying “there, there, my angels, get along now.”

CLICK HERE to order Feliway direct from our Amazon Storefront!

Of course, eventually your old and new cats have to meet, unless you plan to keep a whole separate apartment for your new cat, but that’s when questions come up so…

The first time your cats see each other should not be a surprise to either of them, and should always be safe for both. You can do this through a pet gate, sliding glass door, or just the crack of a door. It’s better to have multiple short, safe, uneventful interactions to start. This will build a neutral to positive association before they have prolonged contact with each other.

Once your cats have smelled, heard, and seen each other a few times, it’s time for them to share space. If you have multiple resident cats, it’s often best to introduce them to the new cat on an individual basis. Only allow them to share space if there’s no signs of aggression or fear from either side.

Whinny’s Wisdom: This cat is definitely afraid, and may turn aggressive. The ears are flattened, pupils dilated, and body is tucked with the tail under. Do not proceed with introductions if either cat looks like this!

It can take many months before a new cat fully integrates into a household. There are a lot of factors at play, and some cats may never become friends, but as long as they can coexist peacefully, it’s a win. Don’t ever try to force closeness or cuddles on cats who don’t want it—you’re likely to get claws!

You know your resident cats best; be sure to take their personalities in mind before bringing a new cat or kitten into the home. While I get to see all kinds in my role as Official Clinic Mouse for Springhill Equine and Companion Animal Clinic, most pets spend 99% of their time in their home with only the creatures that live there. New introductions can be scary or intimidating, and responses aren’t always predictable.

As always, if you have questions about bringing a new cat into your home, or about improving the mingling of your current crew, talk to our team of certified Cat People and we can give you some tips! And Dr. Speziok is always happy to see your pets for behavior consults, just call to schedule.

Stay Friendly,

Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t poked around my website in a while, you might want to take a minute to check it out! There are a ton of resources on here besides my amazing blog. We have books, a huge video library, a podcast, links to social media, upcoming events, and more!

 

 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello one and all, welcome back to another thrilling set of wisdoms by yours truly! Mice suffer from heat stress at temperatures above 85F so you could say I’ve been in a constant state of stress for the last few months. I don’t sweat naturally, but I can’t imagine not being able to pant to dissipate my heat. Our equine friends rely on sweating to cool themselves off, but sometimes they seem to lose that ability, and that is nothing but stress to the horses, their owners, and their doctors!

Normal horses can and do produce twice as much sweat per square inch of skin than you humans, and that can equate to 5-8 GALLONS of sweat per day in very hot weather or with moderate exercise. Have you noticed that your horse’s sweat often looks white and frothy? They have unique apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids, causing that “lathered up” look. As the water in sweat evaporates, it cools the horse down by transferring heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5°F – about the same as mine! That temperature goes up during exercise but sweat helps it return to normal quickly.

 Whinny’s Wisdom: 70% of a horse’s heat regulation is through sweating.

Horses that can’t sweat fully have a very hard time cooling off. This difficulty sweating is called anhidrosis–a term as old as time, or at least as old as the 1700’s, according to the Oxford English Dictionary. Horses with anhidrosis might sweat less than normal, only in patches, or not at all. They tend to breathe harder and faster than a normal horse both at rest and during exercise.

 The truth is, as smart as veterinarians are (and mine are the best!), they don’t completely understand why some horses stop sweating. Most of the research is being done by really smart people right here in Gainesville at the University of Florida. That’s because horses that live in the very hottest places seem most likely to be affected. The possible explanations include overstimulation of the sweat glands, problems in the signaling pathway, or decreased numbers and sensitivity of receptors. For a fun in the sun Florida double whammy, high humidity makes what sweating that does happen less effective because of the lack of evaporation. As my paws fly across this keyboard, the humidity outside is a whopping 92%!!

Anhidrosis can be an insidious change in a horse that has lived in Florida their whole lives, or it can be a sudden shift for a horse that has just moved here or is traveling to the sunshine state to compete or retire. 

 So, if your horse is the only one at the barn not sweating buckets in this Florida heat, pay attention! Here are some things to watch out for:

– Dry, clean coat after work or when coming in from daytime turnout

– Fast or labored breathing, especially when not working

– Flared nostrils

– Low energy or fatigue

– Slow cooling down after exercise

– Increased body temperature (especially serious if over 104°F)

– Seeking and staying in the shade, even if food is elsewhere

– Reduced eating or drinking

– Chronic cases: dry, itchy, or flaky skin, sometimes with hair loss

 Whinny’s Wisdom: If you own horses, you absolutely must have a reliable thermometer to take their temperature. And you should practice with your horse so they are used to the process. It’s often the first thing you’ll be asked on the phone when you call about a sick horse.

If your horse is a non-sweater, what can you do? I can recommend some lovely lemming hotels in the arctic, but you may not be inclined to up and move just yet. Here are some other strategies.

 Electrolyte Supplements

 These can support normal sweating and overall health, especially in summer. One AC and Platinum Refresh are popular options. They provide essential electrolytes, amino acids, and vitamins. While the exact mechanism by which these supplements aid anhidrosis is not fully understood, their components are known to support bodily functions related to sweating. The success of these supplements can vary from horse to horse, likely due to individual differences in physiology and the underlying causes of anhidrosis.

 Chinese Herbal Therapy and Acupuncture

 At Springhill Equine, we’ve found these methods can be quite successful in some cases. Some of our docs’ very best summer success sweating stories have come from acupuncture patients of Dr. Carter and Dr. Yorke! We all need a little push to get to work sometimes, and it seems those equine sweat glands respond to a bit of needling!

 Cooling Barns and Stalls

 Keeping your barn and stalls cool is key. Use fans to circulate air and create a breeze. Ceiling fans, box fans (outdoor rated, of course!), and industrial fans all help. Misters or fogging systems can reduce heat through evaporation. Make sure the barn is well-ventilated by opening doors and windows. Using reflective or light-colored roofing materials can deflect sunlight and reduce heat absorption.

 Providing Shade in Pastures

 Provide ample shade in pastures. Trees offer natural shade, but if you don’t have enough, install shade structures or shelters. These can be pole barns, run-in sheds, or tarps stretched between posts. Ensure the shade is large enough for multiple horses to use without crowding, and place water sources nearby to encourage hydration.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 Emergency Cooling Measures

 It’s better to prevent overheating, but if it happens, here are some steps to follow:

– Move your horse to the shade.

– Hose them down with cool water or sponge them with ice water.

– Use portable fans.

– Offer cold water to drink.

– Take their temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate.

– Call the vet!

 Remember, you may not suffer from anhidrosis yourself, but you need to keep cool too! Drink water, wear sunscreen, stay in the shade, and take lots of breaks when you’re at the barn with your horses this summer. There’s a good human.

Until next week,

 Whinny

 P.S. Do you want to learn more about horses? Check out the podcast my humans produce! It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth and you can check it out right here on my website, or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello again, wonderful pet parents! It’s Whinny here, your friendly clinic mouse, back with more squeaky wisdom. We’re talking today about vaccines, the tiny but mighty protectors that can make all the difference in your pet’s life. We’ll dive into the essentials first, then add a little extra cheddar to the mix with lifestyle vaccines! These vaccines are just as important, especially if your pets like to socialize or explore the great outdoors. Let’s dive in, starting with how we protect the pooches.

Companion Animal Clinic at Springhill Equine

Dogs

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Let’s start with the big one—rabies. This vaccine is a non-negotiable for your dog’s health and safety. Rabies is a deadly virus that can affect all mammals (yep, even me!), and once symptoms appear, there’s no cure. The good news? A simple rabies vaccine protects your dog—and helps protect the people and other pets around them too. This is why rabies vaccination is legally required in most areas.

Distemper/Parvo Combo (DHPP): 

Now, let’s talk about the distemper/parvo combo, often bundled together with a few other important vaccines. Distemper is a highly contagious viral disease that can cause serious respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurological problems. Parvo, on the other paw, is a nasty virus that affects the intestines and can be deadly, especially for puppies. This combo vaccine also protects against adenovirus (which can lead to hepatitis) and parainfluenza (a respiratory virus). It’s like giving your dog a superhero cape, helping them fight off multiple villains with one shot!

Now, let’s talk lifestyle vaccines—these are key for dogs who like to sniff, play, and explore the world around them.

Bordetella (Kennel Cough):

Does your dog like to meet new friends, visit dog parks, or stay at kennels? If so, Bordetella is a must. This vaccine protects against kennel cough, a highly contagious respiratory infection that spreads like gossip at a cheese party. It’s a mucosal vaccine, meaning it goes right into the nose or mouth, where it can work its magic. And just like your dog’s social calendar, it needs to be updated yearly.

Canine Influenza:

For pups who mingle with other dogs, canine influenza is another important vaccine. This flu can spread quickly in places like doggy daycares or boarding facilities, causing a serious cough, fever, and fatigue. If your dog is a regular at these spots, this yearly vaccine will help keep them safe and sound.

Leptospirosis: 

Now, here’s one that’s especially important for our outdoor adventurers. Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that’s common in our area and can be spread through contaminated water or soil—yikes! If your dog loves romping around in parks, on properties, or near water, this vaccine is a must. It helps protect them from this potentially serious disease.

Lyme Disease:

Lyme disease is spread by ticks and is more common in certain areas. While it’s not a big concern in the Southeast, if your dog is a frequent traveler, especially to northern regions, this vaccine could be a lifesaver. It’s all about being prepared, just in case your pup decides to take a road trip.

Cats

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Just like our canine companions, cats need protection from rabies too. Whether your feline friend is a homebody or a neighborhood explorer, rabies vaccination is essential. It’s a life-saving vaccine that ensures your kitty stays safe and that you’re complying with local laws.

FVRCP Combo:

Now, for the feline trio of protection—the FVRCP combo. This vaccine covers three big threats to cats: Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (fancy term for feline herpesvirus), Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper). Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus cause upper respiratory issues, which can make your cat feel really crummy, while Panleukopenia is a serious virus that affects the blood cells and can be deadly. The FVRCP combo is like the feline version of a super-suit, keeping them safe from these dangerous diseases.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

And now, onto the lifestyle vaccine for our fabulous felines.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV): 

This is the one to consider if your cat loves to explore the outdoors or hang out with other cats. Feline leukemia is a virus that can weaken a cat’s immune system and lead to serious health issues. Every kitten should start with a series of FeLV vaccines to build their initial immunity. After that, if your cat is indoor/outdoor or has contact with cats who are FeLV positive, they’ll need this vaccine yearly to stay protected.

Why Vaccines (and Vets) Matter 🩺

Remember, it’s not just about getting vaccines; it’s about making sure they’re the right ones for your pet’s lifestyle. That’s where your veterinarian comes in! When you bring your furry friend in—or have my docs out for a home visit!—for their vaccines, they’re also getting a full health check-up. We will get down to brass tacks…err, borzoi tabbies…to help you decide which vaccines are necessary based on your pet’s activities and risks, keeping them safe and sound. And, we’ll plan that schedule based on your pet’s age—puppies and kittens have a bit of extra work to do to ramp up their initial protection! There’s a schedule and we must stick to it! So, we’ll see your new addition often for the first few months to ensure we prime their immune system the right way. These frequent visits are also the very best way to monitor growth, discuss training and milestones, and ensure your pets are kept on the right size and type of prevention as they grow.  

The Annual Exam: A Must-Do!

Vaccines are vital, but so is that all-important annual exam. This is when your vet gets to give your pet a thorough once-over, catching any issues early and ensuring they’re in tip-top shape. It’s like a yearly spa day—but with fewer bubbles and more belly rubs!

Remember: we’re all about keeping your pets safe, healthy, and ready for all their adventures—whether that’s a romp in the park, a snuggle on the couch, or a dash through the fields.

Until next time, keep those tails wagging and whiskers twitching!

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your canine and feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline, or your herd of rambunctuous dogs. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Orphaned Kitten Care

Orphaned Kitten Care

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

From Squeaks to Shrieks: A Clinic Mouse’s Guide to Kitten Season

Hey everybody, Whinny the Clinic Mouse here! Spring came and went, as it does, and brought with it the annual phenomenon known as “kitten season.” During this time, feline fertility peaks, leading to a surge in the number of cat mothers giving birth. While this can be heartwarming, it can also be heartbreaking when there are orphan kittens in need of care. Animal shelters are often overflowing at this time of year as well, which means there isn’t always a place for these pip-squeaks to go. Kittens are made cute, so they can get people to do what they want and take them in (mice are way cuter in my humble opinion, but you don’t see people busting down doors to take us into their homes). Anyway…

Mother cats are typically incredibly dedicated caregivers, and if you find a healthy, well-fed group of kittens nestled together somewhere, they are probably under the jurisdiction of an adult cat, and take it from me, you don’t want to mess with them! However, if the kittens are alone, crying, appear malnourished, or injured, then they may be orphaned and will need your intervention.

If you know of a shelter or kitten rescue group with availability, definitely bring any sickly kittens there, but if that’s not an option, let me lead you down the whisker-trail of taking care of orphaned kittens.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Delicate Art of Orphaned Kitten Care

Caring for orphaned kittens is a significant commitment that requires knowledge, patience, and a good deal of love. Their needs will vary depending on their age, but some general principles apply.

Warmth is Crucial: Newborn kittens are unable to regulate their body temperature and rely on their mother’s warmth for survival. If you’ve taken in orphaned kittens, you must create a cozy nest box lined with soft towels and provide external heat. You can use a heating pad set on low (covered with a towel) to maintain a temperature around 99 degrees Fahrenheit. This mimics the warmth they would receive from their mother. There is also a product called Snuggle Safe that heats up in the microwave and stays warm for a few hours without the risk of electrical issues. There should be an area of the box that does not have a heating element under it so the kittens can move away from it if they need to.

Feeding Time: Orphaned kittens require frequent feedings with a kitten-specific formula. Kittens younger than 1 week need food about every 2-3 hours. They are not able to sustain themselves overnight. It’s very important to mix the formula exactly as the product directs, and to warm it to body temperature prior to feeding. You can test it on the inside of your paw—whoops, I mean wrist—to check that it’s not too warm. Never feed kittens on their back, they should be on their stomach and should be actively swallowing.

Whinny Wisdom: Squeezing or syringing milk into their mouth is not ok! You’re more likely to cause them to inhale it. 

Elimination Stimulation: Unlike older kittens, newborns cannot eliminate waste on their own. The mother cat would typically lick their genitals to stimulate urination and defecation. You can mimic this process by gently rubbing the kitten’s genital area with a warm, damp cotton ball, piece of gauze, or washcloth after each feeding. Continue until elimination occurs. Don’t skip this step, and if you’re too squeamish for it, well, that’s when you’d call my docs or other professionals, because to raise kittens, you have to be able to handle the gross and the cute!

Companion Animal Care at Springhill Equine

A Gradual Transition

As the kittens mature, their needs will evolve. Here’s a breakdown of care by age group:

  • Newborn to 4 Weeks Old: These fragile kittens require constant care, including bottle-feeding every few hours, warmth regulation, and elimination stimulation. Their eyes may be closed or partially open, and they won’t be able to walk or play.
  • 4 to 8 Weeks Old: Kittens in this age group can start lapping formula from a shallow dish. You can introduce moistened kitten food at this stage, but bottle-feeding may still be necessary to ensure they get enough calories. Their eyes will be open, and they’ll begin to explore their surroundings.
  • 8 to 12 Weeks Old: By this age, kittens can typically be weaned off formula and eat moistened kitten food. However, monitor their weight gain and continue bottle-feeding if needed. These playful kittens will be more active and can begin litter box training.

Beyond the Basics

While providing warmth, food, and elimination assistance are crucial, orphaned kittens also require socialization and enrichment. Handle them gently and regularly to get them accustomed to human contact. Provide them with safe toys to play with and stimulate their natural instincts. If you have a single orphan kitten, you’ll need to teach them to play safely and learn to be independent as they age. Bottle babies are notorious for becoming spoiled rotten adult cats. They may be small, but their meows pack a punch! Honestly, the decibel level rivals a rock concert sometimes. Guess I need to invest in some earplugs…or maybe some cheese…for this kitten season. Did I mention that we have a bottle baby kitten here at the Clinic? Wednesday is not thrilled about it. Anyway.

Remember, Prevention is Key

The overwhelming number of orphaned kittens during kitten season should remind you of the importance of spaying and neutering your cats. This routine surgery is the single most effective way to prevent unwanted litters and their associated challenges. Spaying and neutering also has numerous health benefits for your feline companions.

The Rewarding Journey of Kitten Care

Helping orphaned kittens is a demanding yet incredibly rewarding experience. By providing them with the necessary care and love, you’ll be giving them a fighting chance at a happy and healthy life. Remember, even small actions can make a big difference for these vulnerable creatures. So, this kitten season, consider opening your heart and maybe even your home to a furry little orphan in need. Remember, your veterinarian is your best partner for helping all animals, but especially the tiniest of the bunch! Another resource our clinic recommends all the time to foster kitten parents is this website:

www.kittenlady.org

There, you will find lots of helpful diagrams, pictures, and videos for raising kittens!

Whinny Wisdom: Keep an eye out for “kitten season” awareness campaigns and fundraising efforts in your area. These initiatives are crucial in supporting shelters and rescue organizations that care for orphaned kittens. Consider volunteering your time or making a donation to contribute to their lifesaving work.

Well, that’s it for this week. Now that Pugsly, our new kitten here at the Clinic, is learning to eat dry food, I’m going to see if I can sneak a bite.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite cat vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Body Condition Score in Horses

Body Condition Score in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here! I recently wrote a blog on how to estimate your horse’s weight using a tape measure and an easy calculation. Well today I’m adding on to that with a related topic, body condition scoring! Getting an estimate of the actual weight is great, since you can monitor the trends of weight gain or loss and be more accurate in dosing of medications such as dewormers. But how do you know if that weight is healthy and correct for him? My docs use a visual scoring system called the body condition score.

The body condition score (BCS) allows you to assess whether your horse is too thin, too fat, or just right. The BCS ranges from 1 to 9, with 1 being extremely thin and 9 being extremely fat. Your horse can develop health problems if he is too far in either direction! The scores in the middle – 4, 5, and 6 – are the moderate weights and the healthiest place for your horse to be.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

To score your horse, all you need are your eyes and your hands. You’re going to look at and feel six areas where horses store fat – his neck, withers, back, tail head, ribs, and behind the shoulder. Most of these terms are pretty obvious but a couple new terms for you may be the spinous processes (the part of back vertebrae that projects upwards to form the bumps on the top of his spine) and the transverse processes (the part of the vertebrae that projects out to the side). You will see these areas best on a horse that is too thin.  Here are the descriptions and examples of horses in various body conditions.

Body condition score 1

  • This horse is emaciated and in critical condition. No fat can be felt. His ribs, tailhead, hips, pelvic bones, and the bones of his spine (spinous processes and transverse processes) are prominent. The bones of his withers, shoulders and neck are easily noticed. 

Body condition score 2

  • An extremely thin horse. There is a very small amount of fat covering the base of the spinous processes. The transverse processes of the lower back can be felt but are slightly rounded. The spinous processes, ribs, tailhead, hip joints, and pelvic bones are prominent. The withers, shoulders and neck structure are faintly discernable.

Body condition score 3

  • A thin horse without enough body fat to be healthy. There is fat buildup about halfway up the spinous processes but they are easily discernable. The transverse processes can’t be felt. Slight fat covers the ribs but you can still easily see them. The tailhead is prominent but individual vertebrae can’t be seen. The hip joints appear rounded but are easily discernable. The pelvic bones are not distinguishable. The withers, shoulders and neck are thin. 

Body condition score 4

  • A mildly thin horse. Sometimes a very fit athlete like a racehorse or endurance horse can be a BCS of 4. He is lean but in good condition. There is a slight ridge along the back and the faint outline of ribs are discernable. The tailhead prominence depends on the horse’s conformation, but fat can be felt around it. The hip joints not discernable. The withers, shoulders and neck are not obviously thin.

Body condition score 5

  • For most horses this is the ideal body condition. The back is level, without either a ridge of backbone or a crease down the back. The ribs can be felt if you lightly press the horse’s sides but can’t be seen. The fat around the tailhead feels a bit spongy. The withers are round over the spinous processes. The shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body.

Body condition score 6

  • This is a mildly overweight or fleshy horse. Broodmares have an improved chance of getting pregnant at a BCS of 6. There may be a slight crease down the center of the back. The fat over the ribs and tailhead feels spongy and soft. There are small fat deposits behind the shoulders and along the sides of neck and withers.

Body condition score 7

  • This is an overweight horse. There may be a moderate crease down the back. There is more fat covering the ribs, tailhead, neck, and shoulders. Individual ribs can be felt if you press a bit, but there is noticeable filling between the ribs with fat. The fat around the tailhead is soft. There is fat deposited along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. This horse’s weight is concerning for causing negative health effects.

Body condition score 8

  • This is a very overweight horse and is well into the danger zone for laminitis. There is a crease (aka the rain gutter!) down the back and it is difficult to feel the ribs. The fat around the tailhead is very soft. The areas along the withers and behind the shoulder are filled with fat. There is noticeable thickening of the neck. There is fat deposited along the inner thighs.

Body condition score 9

  • This is an extremely overweight, or obese horse. There is an obvious crease down back. Patches of fat appear over the ribs. There is bulging fat around the tailhead, along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. The flank is filled with fat.

Be sure to ask my docs about your horse’s body condition score when you next see them for wellness exams!

Until next week!

~Whinny

P.S. Wanna learn more about body condition score? Check out this video my humans made! They will guide you through the process of assessing your horse, step by step! 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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