Dog and Cat Dental Care 101

Dog and Cat Dental Care 101

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! Dental care is a vital component of companion animal medicine, and requires teamwork. You, as the pet owner, my docs as…well, the doctor, and even your dog or cat! Of course, their cooperation will be based on the training you do to get them comfortable with their regular physical exams. My docs have great anesthetic protocols for the actual dental work so that we don’t have to rely on your dog saying “ahhhhhh!”

Dental care starts at the very first puppy or kitten wellness visit. Your pet’s doctor will take a close look in their mouth at their sharp baby teeth to make sure they are all in the right space and not too crowded. When their adult teeth start to come in, sometimes they don’t lose their baby teeth on time. These are called “retained deciduous” teeth, and need to be extracted by your pet’s vet or they can cause damage to the permanent teeth. Small dogs and cats and especially brachycephalic (squishy-faced) animals always need earlier and more involved dental care than their long snooted counterpoints.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Brachycephalic animals have to fit the same structures (42 teeth, tongue, gums, & sinuses) in a space that is often less than half the size of what it should be based on their body size. This causes all kinds of issues, as you might imagine!

I’ve been hanging out inside the small animal treatment room at the clinic lately (playing hide and seek with Puglsy and Wednesday, the clinic cats, is great fun!). I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard Dr. Speziok tell someone that it is always better to address dental issues early—including preventive care!

Lots of you that read my blog are probably horse owners, and if your horse is a patient at Springhill Equine then they most likely have a dental every year. Tell me, gentlefolks, why should your clawed friends be treated differently than your hooved friends? The answer is that they all need regular dental care!

 That’s right, starting at between 1-3 years of age—depending on size and breed—dogs and cats should have a dental once per year. This isn’t just coming from your best mouse friend, but from the American Animal Hospital Association and the World Small Animal Veterinary Association. Here’s a quote from WSAVA: “Regular, thorough, quality dental care is necessary to provide optimum health and quality of life in veterinary patients.”

Dog and cat teeth are a bit different than your teeth (and way different than my cute chompers, and way, way different than your horse’s!) in that they don’t often get cavities or need root canals, but instead they build up tartar and plaque which then leads to “periodontal” disease, which is disease around the tooth and under the gum line.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Multiple studies show that around 80% of dogs and 70% of cats have evidence of periodontitis by two years old.

Things To Avoid Like The Plague

While we’re on the topic of what these big veterinary associations say, let’s briefly discuss anesthesia-free dental scaling.” Much like “lay floaters” in the equine world, this is totally inappropriate. Just like lay floaters will stick random files in horse mouths with no sedation and claim to be a “dentist,” there are companies that will run a scaler over the exposed parts of dog teeth to crack off the obvious calculus and call that “dentistry.” It’s definitely not dentistry.

Can you tell they aren’t my favorite?

Like we talked about earlier, the majority of disease occurs under the gum line in our pets, which means we need to direct the scaling there. This is not a particularly comfortable sensation, and can be quite painful if there is disease present. Not to mention, the scaler emits a jet of water to cool the teeth and push away plaque, which could be inhaled by your dog if their airway isn’t protected. At best, these companies are doing something that is only hiding the problem and doesn’t help your pet (but does help their bank account), and at worst, they could seriously hurt your pet, cause infection, and give them a ton of trauma around handling their painful mouth while not addressing any of it. So don’t ever use them. (Don’t use lay floaters on your horses either, but that’s a different blog, written by Tony himself, and you can read it here.)

Know The Dental Basics For Your Critters

Now that we’ve gotten that elephant out of the way, how can you do the right thing by your dogs and cats to keep their teeth shiny and healthy?

  1. Regular veterinary visits to address all of their preventive health needs.
  2. Brush their teeth! Ideally every day, but any amount of brushing you can do is helpful.
  3. Feed food or treats recommended by the Veterinary Oral Health Council to prevent dental disease.
  4. Dental cleanings and treatments under anesthesia by your veterinarian as recommended by them—usually yearly or every other year, starting when your pet is young.
  5. If you notice a broken tooth, bad breath smell, or other abnormality, bring them in to your vet for a tooth check.
  6. Handle their mouth and muzzle often to get them used to showing off their smile, so that it’s no big deal when their doctor takes a peak.

Companion Animal Care at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

What Happens At A Dental Visit?

What all goes in to one of these dental procedures at the vet? Well, anesthesia is necessary, so your pet should be fasted overnight, then dropped off at the clinic in the morning to stay for the day. Usually, our awesome techs collect some bloodwork and run it while the doctor is prepping for the day. Then, your pet is examined to be sure they’re healthy and fit for their procedure. The team gives medicine to help relax your pet, and then an IV catheter is placed in one of their legs. This allows us to give fluids and medication during the procedure without having to hunt for a vein.

Once bloodwork is done, the team is ready, and safety checklists are complete, your pet will be induced with another injectable drug, this time into their catheter, then they’ll be intubated—which just means a tube is placed in their airway to secure it and provide oxygen. This is super important, because like we talked about earlier, we use lots of water and push out lots of tartar. We really don’t want that going into the lungs, because it can cause pneumonia.

Once they are anesthetized and hooked up to all the monitors with their dedicated anesthesia technician diligently recording their vitals, they get x-rays taken of the roots of every one of their teeth. Then the doctor probes each tooth in multiple places to look for disease and pocketing. The combination of these two things is how the treatment plan is made, and each tooth gets its own treatment plan! Most of the time, that treatment plan will be a good scale and polish (which isn’t just for looks but buffs out the scratches from the scaler). But if a tooth has any level of disease, then we might give it an extra deep clean, instill antibiotic into the gum, or the doctor might extract it.

Luckily, dogs and cats don’t tend to care about a few missing teeth, and they can typically eat just fine after their procedure even with some gaps. After they wake up from anesthesia, they recover at the clinic for a few hours and then go back home with you!

Folks, the tooth is this: your pets need quality dental care by their veterinarian, and they need it starting young, and repeated often! You can call the office to schedule a dental appointment for any or all of your critters (except human children, the docs draw the line there!) at 352-472-1620.

Make sure you bring a bit of cheese for Your’s Truly!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If your dogs and cats aren’t in our computer system yet, you can fill out this form and get their info to us ahead of time! That way when you’re ready to make an appointment for them, it will all be ready to go! And make sure you check out our podcast below for all the horse health knowledge you could ever ask for, for free!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Dog and Cat Food 101

Dog and Cat Food 101

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Pet Food 101: Decoding Labels and Serving Sizes

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wondrous writing by me! Whinny, the Official Clinic Mouse of Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic and Companion Animal Care. Dr. Speziok is our dog and cat vet, and I don’t know if I’ve ever heard her get through an appointment in our exam rooms without discussing diet in one way or another.

Pet food can be a hot topic, and there’s apparently lots of opinions on the FaceMouse and InstaCheese about how dogs and cats “should” be fed. It’s true, diet is one of the most important factors in overall health, and dogs and cats rely on their human staff—err, companions—to provide that food. Contrary to popular internet belief, your pet dogs and cats are not wild animals, and generally aren’t hunting for themselves. So, you go to the store and buy their food for them, which I think means you’d better understand a bit of what you’re buying!

Whinny’s Wisdom: Dogs diverged from wolves between 30-40,000 years ago! They have not only changed their size and behavior, but their dietary needs as well. Dogs have evolved alongside humans, which means as you lot learned to cook, they evolved to eat cooked food.

Understanding Pet Food Labels

When it comes to feeding our pets, one of the most important yet often overlooked aspects is understanding pet food labels. These labels contain vital information that helps us ensure our furry friends receive balanced and nutritious meals. Key terms to look for include protein, fat, fiber, and moisture, each of which plays a crucial role in a pet’s diet.

Protein is essential for growth and repair of tissues in the body,

Fat provides energy,

Fiber aids digestion, and

Moisture helps keep pets hydrated.

Interpreting the ingredient list and guaranteed analysis can be tricky. It’s also important to understand that the ingredient list is not a recipe, but a summary of what’s included in the food, listed by weight. While the order can give some indication of the primary ingredients, it doesn’t directly tell you the nutritional value. Ingredients like meat by-products are not inherently bad and can be valuable sources of nutrition. The guaranteed analysis section of the label is where you find the minimum or maximum levels of key nutrients like protein and fat, which helps you gauge the nutritional profile of the food. By understanding these labels, you can make more informed choices that contribute to your pet’s overall health and well-being.

When you pick up a bag or can of food in the store, the first thing to confirm is that it is even appropriate as a sole diet for your pet. If it is, it will have an AAFCO label. AAFCO is the Association of American Feed Control Officials. This group is not a regulatory agency, but is a council made up of researchers, veterinarians, and government officials. They use the latest science to set standards for minimums and maximums of nutrients for pet foods.

For a manufacturer to be able to put an AAFCO label on their prodcut, they must prove it meets AAFCO’s nutrient profile standards and is complete and balanced. There are two methods to evaluate whether a food meets these standards:

  • Nutrient Content Analysis: a laboratory analyzed a small sample of the food to verify it meets AAFCO’s standards. If it does, the label will read “[Product Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles.”
  • AAFCO-Compliant Feeding Trial: this method includes feeding trials with real dogs to demonstrate the food’s nutritional values in addition to the above laboratory analysis. If this method was used, the label will read “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that [Product Name] provides complete and balanced nutrition.”

Both statements are considered by the FDA to guarantee the food is complete and balanced, but if there’s any question, foods that have gone through a feeding trial probably have a bit more merit. AAFCO labels are voluntary and are not required for a bag of food to be on the shelf, so check for them as the first step to evaluating food.

Feeding Guide

Feeding guidelines on pet food packaging are not arbitrary numbers; they are carefully calculated based on a pet’s age, weight, and activity level to ensure they receive the correct amounts of essential nutrients, vitamins, and amino acids. These recommended daily allowances are designed to meet the nutritional needs of your pet at different life stages. For example, a growing puppy requires different nutrient levels compared to an adult or senior dog. Feeding less or more of an adult food is not the same as feeding a puppy food. Starting with these guidelines is crucial for maintaining your pet’s health, but remember that each animal is an individual, so amounts should be tailored to them.

You humans tend to prefer your four legged friends on the fluffy side, as opposed to the athletic side, so the daily feeding recommendations lean high (horse people, I know you feel me on this!). If your pet is gaining weight on a food, cutting back by 10-15% can be acceptable, but if you’re finding yourself feeding way less (or way more) than the bag recommends, we have a problem. Underfeeding may result in nutrient deficiencies, while overfeeding can cause obesity and related conditions. It’s important to understand that the recommended amount is set to provide a balanced diet, ensuring they get the right mix of protein, fats, vitamins, and minerals. Always measure your pet’s food accurately, and pay attention to what calories they are getting that are not in their bowl.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic and Companion Animal Care

Some Reminders

Veterinarians are not “bought” by pet food companies.

Veterinarians are not “bought” by pet food companies.

[Do I need to squeak it a third time?]

Large pet food companies—Hill’s Science Diet, Royal Canin, and Purina—are recommended by veterinarians (including our docs!) because they work. Those companies have had many years to put research and money into creating healthy food for your pets. Purina, as an example, has 8 veterinarians on their leadership team. These larger, more experienced companies also tend to have better quality testing then smaller boutique companies.

Dogs and cats do not need to switch up their food regularly, as a general rule. In fact, changing foods can lead to gastrointestinal issues. Most dogs and cats do much better on the same food and same flavor and appreciate the consistency. Many dogs (usually the cute, small, fluffy ones) are really good at training their people (YOU) to switch their food or flavor all the time, but that is manipulation! A healthy pet will not starve themselves. If your pet is refusing food they’ve previously eaten well, and they are otherwise their normal selves with no vomiting or diarrhea or lethargy, then offer that food repeatedly, picking it back up after 20 minutes if they haven’t eaten it. If you always add a treat topper or switch the food when they refuse, then congratulations, you’ve been trained!

I could go on and on about diet, and maybe I will, let us know if you want more nutrition blogs (oh! what about an artisanal cheese article…), but I’ll cut myself off here for now (food pun intended!)

In good health and yummy food,

~Whinny

P.S. Not sure if your dog or cat is on an appropriate diet, or is even at a good body condition score? Make sure you ask Dr. Speziok about it when you are in for your next exam! Or when she comes by your house, because she does house calls for dogs and cats, too. That’s right, nothing but top shelf around here!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Cushings or PPID in Horses

Cushings or PPID in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey, everybody! Whinny checking in this week to discuss one of the most common diseases the Doctor’s here see in horses. I often hear them refer to it as Cushing’s. However, being a proper mouse I’m going to call it by its actual name: PPID. 

What is PPID?

PPID, or pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, is a disease that occurs when the pituitary gland, a small pea-sized structure at the base of the brain, produces too much of a hormone called ACTH. ACTH stimulates the adrenal glands to produce cortisol, which is a hormone that helps the body respond to stress. At least that’s how Cushing’s works in dogs and humans, two other species commonly affected by a similar syndrome. 

Horses have to be different and that’s why they get a special name for their version. You see, dogs and humans are affected in the anterior pituitary. Horses are affected in the intermediate, or pars intermedia, area of the pituitary. This area releases way more than just ACTH. It can release up to 5,000 different hormones. These hormones are largely responsible for maintaining the status quo of the body. They tell cells things like: it’s daytime, or nighttime, winter is coming, we should probably eat more, time to grow a lot of hoof, and on and on. All the things that make a body function day-to-day. The changes involved in PPID take time to occur. This means most, but not all, affected horses are over 15 years of age. 

Symptoms

PPID can cause a variety of symptoms in horses, and the severity of the symptoms can vary depending on the stage of the disease. Some common symptoms include:

    • Curly coat: The horse’s coat may become dull, dry, and curly. This is the most common symptom people think of with PPID horses, but I’m here to let you know it’s often one of the last ones horses develop! If this is the first sign you see, you’re probably late to the game.
    • Weight loss/weight gain: A change in weight that doesn’t make sense, up or down, often goes with PPID
  • Decreased performance: One of the first, very subtle signs, horses may show is decreased performance. That might show up as less power, speed, or endurance. 
  • Infections: Horses with PPID have a suppressed immune system. This makes them more susceptible to chronic infections of the skin and teeth. It also makes them more susceptible to internal parasites. 
  • Increased thirst and urination: Horses with PPID may drink more water and urinate more frequently.
  • Laminitis: PPID can increase the risk of laminitis. This is the scariest symptom of PPID. Its onset is often insidious. Yearly foot radiographs can help spot this symptom early!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Diagnostics

If you suspect that your horse may have PPID, it’s important to consult with one of our veterinarians. They can perform a physical examination and may recommend blood tests to measure the level of ACTH in the horse’s bloodstream. In some cases, a test called a TRH stimulation test may also be performed. This test involves administering a hormone called TRH, which should cause the pituitary gland to release ACTH. If the horse’s ACTH levels increase significantly after the TRH stimulation test, it may be a sign of PPID.

Treatments

There is no cure for PPID, but the condition can be managed with appropriate treatment. The goal of treatment is to help regulate the pituitary gland. This can be achieved through a combination of medications, dietary changes, and regular veterinary care.

  • Medications: There are several medications available to treat PPID, including pergolide and cyproheptadine. These medications can help to reduce the production of ACTH. Pergolid is a very picky medication that has to be manufactured and stored under very specific conditions! Be sure you are using a form that meets those requirements. In North America, only Prascend meets these conditions. 
  • Dietary changes: Horses with PPID may benefit from a diet that is low in carbohydrates and high in fiber. Many, but not all, horses with PPID also experience insulin resistance. If your horse has both, then a low starch diet will be necessary. 
  • Regular veterinary care: It’s important to monitor horses with PPID closely and to provide regular veterinary care. Regular check-ups looking for laminitis, those pesky infections, and fecal egg counts are very important, along with routine vaccinations. 

Conclusion

PPID is a complex condition that can affect horses of all breeds. While there is no cure, it can be managed with appropriate treatment. If you suspect that your horse may have PPID, it’s important to consult with our veterinarians for diagnosis and treatment. By working with our veterinarians, you can help your horse live a long and healthy life.

Well, that’s all for now, folks! I hope you learned something new about PPID. I’ll be back soon with more adventures from the veterinary clinic. Until then, stay curious and keep exploring!

Until next week,
~Whinny

P.S. If you want to know more about PPID, or just about anything else related to horse health, you should listen to the podcast my humans produce! It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth and you can listen to it right here on my website! Just click this link to go to the Podcast Page, scroll down through the episode list, and click play on whatever catches your eye. As a matter of fact, I’ll put a sampler right below here so you can check it out. Go ahead and click play on something, it won’t bite!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Scary Wounds on Horses

Scary Wounds on Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here, your resident field mouse reporter at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic! Today, I’m tackling a topic that’s a big deal around here – synovial structure infections in horses. Now, that might sound like a mouthful (it is for a little gal like me!), but it basically means infections in a horse’s joints, bursae (fluid-filled sacs near joints), and tendon sheaths (slippery tunnels around tendons). 

These infections can be super scary, and that’s why I wanted to shed some light on why. So, grab a crumb (if you’re a fellow critter) and settle in!

Why Are Synovial Structures Important?

Imagine a horse as a high-performance machine. Its joints, bursae, and tendon sheaths are like the smooth, oiled gears that keep everything moving perfectly. The synovial membrane lining these structures produces a special fluid that acts as a lubricant, reducing friction and keeping things comfy. That membrane is made up of tons of tiny little projections called villi which make the whole thing look like deep, lush carpeting. 

But sometimes, bacteria sneak into these synovial structures. This most often happens from a wound. These wounds can range from tiny punctures to big lacerations. Rarely, it happens from bacteria traveling around the bloodstream, and even rarer, after a surgery. Once inside, these bacteria are like party crashers, wreaking havoc. They multiply like crazy, causing inflammation, pain, and a whole lot of trouble.

The Domino Effect of Infection

Here’s where things get serious. Once bacteria have invaded the synovial membrane it can be almost impossible to get them out of that thick carpet. The infection can in turn damage the delicate synovial membrane, reducing that lubricating fluid. This, in turn, increases friction, leading to pain and stiffness. But it doesn’t stop there. The bacteria can also eat away at the cartilage, the smooth, white cushion protecting the bones at the joint’s ends. All the while the bacteria continue to multiply within the synovial membrane, and get even harder to remove. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Body’s Battleground

The horse’s body isn’t going down without a fight, though! It sends white blood cells, the body’s warriors, to battle the bacteria. This battle creates heat, which is why infected joints often feel hot to the touch. These tiny warriors only add to the problems with severe infections. The very chemicals they make to kill bacteria are also bad for cartilage! 

Now What?

The good news is that with early detection and aggressive treatment, most horses with synovial infections can make a full recovery. That’s why horse owners need to be vigilant!

  • If your horse has a wound, no matter how small, on their legs, take a picture and send it to us! 
  • If that wound is near a joint, tendon sheath, or bursa, your horse needs emergency care right away. We only have about 12 hours to get ahead of these infections.
  • Sudden lameness should also be a call to us for advice.

Battling the Beasts: How My Vets Fight Synovial Infections

The first step is checking to see if a synovial structure is affected. This is done by placing a needle into the area and putting a large amount of sterile fluid in. If the vets see fluid coming out of the wound, then they know a synovial structure is in big trouble. 

The next step is heading to a surgical hospital for a lavage. This is a powerful technique where sterile fluid is flushed through the infected joint or tendon sheath. It’s like giving the battlefield a thorough cleaning! Lavage helps remove bacteria, debris, and inflammatory cells, speeding up healing. As Dr. Lacher can be heard saying, “Dilution is the solution to pollution.” The surgeons will also treat the joint or tendon sheath with antibiotics at the end of the flush, and clean the wound really well. 

Next steps will be:

Antibiotics: They come in various forms, including oral medications, injections directly into the infected joint, and intravenous (through the vein) administration for severe cases. Most synovial infections will go on a combination of intravenous and direct treatments. 

Rest and Support: Stall rest is really important. We don’t want that damaged joint or tendon sheath to move around too much. Horses being delicate critters, the vets will also keep an eye on the opposite limb for something called support limb laminitis. 

Anti-inflammatories: These medications help reduce inflammation, pain, and swelling, making the horse more comfortable.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Getting Back To Work

Even after the bacteria are banished, the horse’s journey isn’t over. Those synovial membranes take time to heal. It can be 4-6 weeks after an injury for them to start producing that all-important lubricating fluid again. Think of it like a factory that needs to get all its machines back online. This means these horses will have a longer rehab period to regain strength and flexibility. It’ll be crucial to bring them back to work gradually, with frequent check-ups at the vet to make sure everything is healing properly. Just like any athlete recovering from a big injury, these horses need patience and a slow and steady approach to get back to their best.

We all know horses are delicate flowers. Their synovial structures are just another example. Being mindful of even tiny wounds on their long legs will ensure you catch problems quickly. Calling my vets with any laceration is never a bad idea. They love to see pictures! Remember, catching these infections early can mean the difference between a full recovery and a long, difficult journey back to health.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Wanna take a deep dive into joints? Check out S7E05 Equine Joint Health of Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth, my doc’s podcast! You’ll be an expert on equine joints in an hour! And once you make it through the 150+ episodes of the show, you’ll be an expert on the rest of the horse too! It’s right there below, just scroll back through the episode list to find it and hit Play. You can do it!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Cat Cohabitation

Cat Cohabitation

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wonderful edition of Whinny’s Wisdoms! One of these days the blog will actually be about mice (the very coolest species), but today, we’re talking about maybe the second coolest: cats. Specifically, cat cohabitation.

This probably won’t surprise you, but 40-70% of cat homes across the world have multiple cats. It’s easy to want to collect them once you see how warm and fuzzy they are. But there can absolutely be issues with welfare and stress if multi-cat homes are not managed properly. You know what I’m squeaking about: fighting, spraying, scratching up the furniture, even medical issues like urinary blockage or diarrhea.

More important than single cat vs multi cat are probably handling and husbandry styles, environmental disruption, socialization history of cats towards humans and other cats, and social stability of cat groups.

Most of you know we have a new Clinic Cat, Wednesday, who has been with us for a few months—I’ve been showing her the ropes—but if you’ve been to the clinic recently you may have also seen a little fluffball kitten who is starting to make his name known. Pugsley is the newest member of Springhill Equine, and is in Clinic Cat Bootcamp at the moment.

Our team has been careful to make the transition to cohabitation a peaceful one for our supurrrvisors, so you could say I’m just the expert you need!

Key Information and Tips

Always have one more litter box than the number of cats, and I’ll clarify that that should mean litter box location. Think about it: there’s still a line for the single bathroom in the stadium whether there’s one stall or ten, but if you have two to three bathrooms on different sides of the stadium then you don’t have to stand in line next to your class rival.

It should go without saying, but there also needs to be at least one food bowl per cat. Cats are big resource guarders as a species (I just try not to be the resource, you know what I mean?) so limiting the places and sources of their food is just asking for argument.

Most cats need and want vertical space in their household. Think about cat “highways” throughout the house—remember the Floor is Lava game? There should also be hiding spots for your kitties, but try to limit possible cornering zones, especially if you have a more forward cat and a more introverted one. This amazing cat wall by Catastrophicreations.com might be an extreme example of creating cat spaces, but you might be able get some ideas from it.

So you’re going to bring a new cat into the home? Well, first impressions are most important, so make sure to plan the introduction and think about potential avenues for trouble. The new cat needs their own space that the current tenants don’t have access to for a bit. Having a safe space of their own not only limits the chance for conflict but also lets them process the new smells and sounds of their home. As they spend time there and you go between their area and the rest of your home, that new smell will be spread around so your old cats “catch wind” of their new friend. You can also do things to swap scents—trading bedding or toys to start, and then eventually even swapping rooms for a spell. This will allow both old and new cats private time to process each other’s presence before meeting… like reading a resume before interviewing someone.

Speaking of smell, I’m sure you’ve heard me talk before about pheromone products. Feliway is the synthetic version of the pheromone cats secrete from their cheeks when they rub all over you and the corners of doorways and walls. That pheromone can only be smelled by them, but basically marks an area as “safe.” Well, they’ve also created a Felway Multicat which works by acting like a mother cat saying “there, there, my angels, get along now.”

CLICK HERE to order Feliway direct from our Amazon Storefront!

Of course, eventually your old and new cats have to meet, unless you plan to keep a whole separate apartment for your new cat, but that’s when questions come up so…

The first time your cats see each other should not be a surprise to either of them, and should always be safe for both. You can do this through a pet gate, sliding glass door, or just the crack of a door. It’s better to have multiple short, safe, uneventful interactions to start. This will build a neutral to positive association before they have prolonged contact with each other.

Once your cats have smelled, heard, and seen each other a few times, it’s time for them to share space. If you have multiple resident cats, it’s often best to introduce them to the new cat on an individual basis. Only allow them to share space if there’s no signs of aggression or fear from either side.

Whinny’s Wisdom: This cat is definitely afraid, and may turn aggressive. The ears are flattened, pupils dilated, and body is tucked with the tail under. Do not proceed with introductions if either cat looks like this!

It can take many months before a new cat fully integrates into a household. There are a lot of factors at play, and some cats may never become friends, but as long as they can coexist peacefully, it’s a win. Don’t ever try to force closeness or cuddles on cats who don’t want it—you’re likely to get claws!

You know your resident cats best; be sure to take their personalities in mind before bringing a new cat or kitten into the home. While I get to see all kinds in my role as Official Clinic Mouse for Springhill Equine and Companion Animal Clinic, most pets spend 99% of their time in their home with only the creatures that live there. New introductions can be scary or intimidating, and responses aren’t always predictable.

As always, if you have questions about bringing a new cat into your home, or about improving the mingling of your current crew, talk to our team of certified Cat People and we can give you some tips! And Dr. Speziok is always happy to see your pets for behavior consults, just call to schedule.

Stay Friendly,

Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t poked around my website in a while, you might want to take a minute to check it out! There are a ton of resources on here besides my amazing blog. We have books, a huge video library, a podcast, links to social media, upcoming events, and more!

 

 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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