Crate Training Dogs

Crate Training Dogs

Tuesdays with Tony

This one’s for the dogs. The unsophisticated, stinky, dogs. While no cat can be tamed, of course, dogs often need to be contained to prevent messes or not-so-smart choices. I know, it’s embarrassing, right? Dogs. But we should talk it out anyway, just so that we’re all on the same page with best practices.

What is Crate Training?

Crate training can be an effective way to housetrain your dog and teach them to be comfortable in their crate. Positive reinforcement is a great way to train dogs and puppies as it involves rewarding them for good behavior and basically ignoring the unwanted behaviors. There are a variety of different types of crates, so I’m sure you can find one that will work in your home. Here are some of the categories:

  1. Wire crates: Wire crates are one of the most popular types of crates. They are made of metal wire and usually have a removable plastic or metal pan at the bottom. They come in different sizes and often have a removable divider to make it easier to adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. They have good ventilation and are probably the simplest and most accessible to start with, and they are also easy to clean.
  2. Plastic crates: Plastic crates are another popular choice. They are made of hard plastic and usually have a removable plastic or metal pan at the bottom. They are lightweight, durable, and easy to clean. They are suitable for travel, as they are easy to fold and store. These aren’t the best idea if your dog is an aggressive chewer, as they can potentially chew and eat the plastic.
  3. Soft-sided crates: Soft-sided crates are made of fabric and mesh and are lightweight and portable. They often have a steel or aluminum frame for support. They are suitable for small dogs and for travel as they are easy to fold and store. They are not as durable as the wire or plastic crates. These should not be used for crate training but can be used once the dog is acclimatized to the concept.
  4. Wooden crates: Wooden crates are made of wood and are suitable for indoor use. They are not as durable as the wire or plastic crates and are not easy to clean. They are usually heavy and not suitable for travel. These are often the most aesthetically pleasing, and also the most expensive.
  5. Outdoor crates: Outdoor crates are made of heavy-duty materials such as metal wire or plastic, and they are designed to be used outside. If they are weather-resistant and have good ventilation, they can be useful for dogs that spend a lot of time outside. It is vital that they always have free access to water if they are outside and that they are not left outside in extreme conditions.

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Making the Right Choice

It’s important to consider the size and behavior of your dog when choosing a crate. You should select a crate that is just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down comfortably, initially. This specific sizing makes the initial crate training much easier. Once your dog is comfortable in the crate, you can try getting them a larger one, so they have more space, especially if you’re leaving them for the work day.

How Do You Do It?

So, how’s a human supposed to convince your new puppy or adult dog to go into a cage and stay there? Start by introducing your dog to the crate gradually. Place treats and toys inside the crate and let them explore it on their own. The goal is to make the crate a happy place to be. Once they are comfortable inside, you can start closing the door as you sit next to it. Ideally, they shouldn’t even notice the first few times because they’re so enthralled with whatever interesting thing you’ve put inside. This should happen the first day or two you bring your dog home.

This isn’t a new puppy blog, but I will say new puppies are going to cry at night pretty much no matter what (again, embarrassing). Some people choose to put them in their new crate next to their bed, others choose to put them in a pen, bathroom, or other safe space that is not the crate for their first few nights. Wherever you put them should be contained and fully puppy-proofed. That will be a future blog topic in itself, I’m sure. I hear Dr. Speziok talk about it to her clients every day, so it must be important. But enough on that for now. What was I saying? Ah, yes, crate training.

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Gradually increase the amount of time you leave your dog in the crate, and always, always reward them with a treat when they go in. Avoid making a big fuss when you put your dog in the crate or when you let them out. This can create anxiety for your dog and make the process more difficult.

This is an important point that you humans sometimes have a hard time grasping: Crates are not to be used for punishment. Really, punishment is never a good training tool. You can use the crate when your dog needs to be removed from a situation AFTER they’ve gotten used to the crate and associate positive things with it, but it should always be a positive, happy experience to go into the crate. Some of the big brain humans that study animal behavior feel that many dogs think of their crate as a sort of “den.” They consider it their home within the home, and some will be seen to bring toys, bones, or food inside.

Why Crate Train?

A properly sized, properly conditioned crate provides dogs with a safe, private place that is all their own. It allows you to focus on that new Top Gun movie or on sniping in Fortnite (if you don’t know what that means, it’s similar to playing Bingo). It creates independence for both the dog and you and gives them a place to settle. Probably most importantly, for your carpets, at least, it massively improves housetraining success.

While I, as a self-respecting litter box user, have never had to wear a leash, Dr. Speziok always recommends new puppies be kept on a leash or in their crate for the first few weeks they are with you so you can make sure they always make it outside to eliminate. Rewarding good behavior is significantly better than trying to “punish” bad behavior after the fact, mostly because it doesn’t work. Yelling or rubbing a dog’s nose in their mess only makes them fear you, and makes them more likely to hide from you to eliminate in the home. If you become a scary person, they will not be willing to be vulnerable around you, even outside on the leash. This is one of the biggest mistakes that new dog owners make.

What if I Adopt An Adult Dog That’s Already Housetrained?

Every animal in your home should be comfortable going into a crate, cage, or pen of some sort in case of emergency. Yes, this includes cats, though we only acquiesce to that indignity in dire situations. And it’s exactly those dire situations that I’m talking about when I say emergency. For those of us in the southeast US, we know that hurricanes are a major worry during certain parts of the year. At any point, you humans could decide you need to leave your home, city, or even state, and you need to be able to take your animals with you, or at the very least get them to a safe weather-proof shelter. This will, unfortunately, necessitate them going into a crate.

So, even if your dog doesn’t need to be crated while you’re away at work, or at night, you should still go through the exercise of crate training them. Family emergencies, vacations, vet visits, emergency room visits, a tornado removing your roof; the reasons your pet might need to go in a crate on short notice are endless.

Try to take crate training slow and be patient with yourself, other members of your household, and your dog. Be consistent and positive and eventually your dog will be comfortable in their crate. Every dog is different, and some are more difficult (read: obstinate [pronounced: cat-like]) to train than others. Don’t be afraid to find a dog trainer in your area to help you out. Dr. Speziok also recommends two channels on the YouTube: Zak George Dog Training and Kikopup. Just click the highlighted link to visit them.

Oh, also… don’t tell the dogs I told you about this.

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. Speaking of YouTube Channels, make sure you subscribe to mine! Just click on that highlighted bit. It’s filled with great videos that will teach you way more about horses (and goats, and other things) than I’m willing to spend the time writing about. If you aren’t watching them, you’re missing out!

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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OCD in Horses

OCD in Horses

Tuesdays with Tony

Today, I’m going to be talking about OCD in horses, but it does not involve horses that are obsessive about keeping things neat and tidy! That’s a problem that only you humans have. Osteochondritis dissecans, or osteochondrosis is a developmental disease in horses (and other species, including humans) that is often abbreviated as “OCD”. The lesions caused by this disease are important to know as a horse owner because they can cause varying degrees of joint effusion and lameness in the horse.

They can also play a significant role in the pre-purchase exam. Even in young horses, my veterinarians often suggest radiographs. You may be thinking, he’s too young for arthritis and has no known history of an injury, so I don’t need x-rays, doc! However, OCD can be present in horses as young as 5-6 months old. At this young age, they may not be showing obvious signs of having a lesion. Having the knowledge of these types of lesions on your pre-purchase exam can help guide you in future care and treatment of that particular horse.

Now for a little semantics. We commonly use the abbreviation “OCD”, or the term Osteochondritis dissecans, as an all-encompassing term for this type of developmental condition. However, there are two terms that describe different stages of the condition.  Osteochondritis dissecans is technically when there is a flap, chip or some degree of separation from the joint surface. These are often referred to as “bone chips.”  These flaps or chips can cause inflammation and pain in the joint, which contributes to lameness. This is typically occurring later in the disease process. On the other hand, the term osteochondrosis is used when there is incomplete hardening of the bone, but there is no separation. In the horse, the most common joints that are affected are the hock, fetlock and stifle.

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OCD is a complex disease because the cause of the lesions is multifactorial. There is evidence that genetics, nutrition, and exercise play a role in the development of OCD. Genetically, there are some breeds and lineages that are predisposed to OCD in certain joints. Currently, we don’t know of a specific gene involved. Nutritionally, the most influential component is the ratio of calcium to phosphorus that is being fed, especially to a growing weanling. Exercise tends to play a modifying role in the condition. That means that younger horses that were stall rested or exercised infrequently have a higher incidence of OCD compared to those that are in a consistent exercise schedule. That makes me really glad to be a cat.

Now that you know what OCD is and what causes it, you’re probably interested in knowing how my docs can determine if your horse has it. Luckily, taking a radiograph (what you humans call an x-ray) can help us find most types of lesions. They’re sometimes inclined to take the x-ray because your horse may be showing the clinical sign of effusion. In some cases, ultrasound can also be used to identify the lesion.

There are several different treatment options, but the most common is arthroscopic removal, especially if there is a flap or a chip. Medical management could include injections with steroid or hyaluronic acid medications, or systemic non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (bute, banamine, equioxx) to help reduce inflammation. In general, arthroscopic removal leads to the best prognosis and return to athletic ability and soundness, but these results can vary depending on the location and joint.

Well, there you have it. OCD is a great reason to get a pre-purchase exam done on your next horse. And if you want to know more than I’m willing to write (hey, a cat’s gotta take a nap!) you should check out the podcast my humans did on this topic. It’s very informative.

Until next week,
~Tony

P.S. Are you watching my YouTube videos? There’s a LOT of really good stuff on my YouTube Channel. If you’re not binge watching it, I don’t even know what to say. 

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Proud Flesh Management

Proud Flesh Management

Tuesdays with Tony

Did you know that horses only sleep about 3 hours a day? I’m pretty sure they spend the other 21 hours thinking of ways to hurt themselves. Cats, being far superior to horses, sleep 21 hours a day and think about eating the other 3 hours, which is a much better use of time, in my [not humble] opinion. But I digress.

If you’re caring for a horse, you’ll certainly have to deal with a wound at some point. While many wounds can be straightforward to manage, injuries to the lower limbs are especially prone to complications. One way the healing process might go awry is by the development of “Proud Flesh” (more officially called exuberant granulation tissue) – a pink, bumpy tissue that bulges from the wound. Once proud flesh occurs, it’s difficult for the skin to grow together and cover the wound. What results is a chronic wound that just won’t finish healing. Very frustrating!

What Is It?

To understand what proud flesh is, let’s briefly talk about how normal wound healing works. There are four steps: In simple terms, they are:
• Clotting
• Inflammation
• Rebuilding of tissue (proliferation)
• Remodeling into mature tissue

As part of the proliferative phase, the wound fills in with granulation tissue to provide a base for the new skin to grow in on. You’ve probably seen granulation before – it’s pink and bumpy and looks a bit like cauliflower or cobblestone. It’s a normal part of wound repair and is eventually replaced by mature tissue when the wound is healed. Once the new skin cells migrate in from the edges and cover the wound, the signal for the body to make granulation tissue is switched off. When all goes right, these steps proceed in an organized way.

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Sometimes this process doesn’t work like it’s supposed to, leading to abnormal wound healing and the production of way more granulation tissue than needed. That’s when we call it “exuberant” or use the term proud flesh. For a variety of reasons, the proliferative phase of wound healing isn’t properly limited, and a bulging mass of granulation tissue grows out of the wound, preventing the skin edges from being able to come together.

Horses, being the problematic critters they are, are more prone to proud flesh than other species. Several factors promote excessive granulation tissue – contamination or infection of the wound, motion in the tissues, poor blood supply, a foreign body or necrotic tissue, and chemicals applied to the wound. These things can slow or halt the normal progression of wound healing and the body gets stuck in the “must produce granulation tissue!” stage.

Most of the time, proud flesh is a problem that occurs on the lower limbs. Being near the ground, the lower limbs are particularly prone to contamination with dirt or manure. The skin is naturally under more tension than higher up on the body and a lot of motion occurs over the joints as the horse moves. This causes cracks in the healing tissue, so inflammation persists, and more granulation tissue forms. When proud flesh occurs in other areas of the body, there is usually a specific reason, such as a foreign body in the wound.

How To Prevent It?

Because persistent inflammation and infection are contributors to proud flesh formation, it’s important to make sure the wound is clean, healthy, and properly managed from the beginning.  Have my doc examine the wound when it first occurs, don’t wait until it looks nasty. She’ll clean the wound appropriately and remove any foreign material, bone fragments, or dead tissue. Depending on the wound, she may recommend trimming damaged tissue or closing it with sutures.

Once the wound is prepared, my doc will recommend the appropriate ointment and bandaging technique for your horse’s specific injury. There are a lot of wound products sold over the counter that actually backfire on well-meaning owners and slow down wound healing, so be careful what you reach for! (Pro Tip – if it’s bright purple or fluorescent yellow, don’t put it on your horse’s wound. And no powders, ever!)

Good products to keep in your first aid kit are triple antibiotic ointment, Silver Sulfadiazine cream and medical grade honey. These dressings are antibacterial but also gentle and keep the wound moist, which is important for healing. Harsh chemicals or repeatedly washing and scrubbing a wound can damage the delicate new skin cells trying to grow and cause proud flesh to form. Don’t kill them with kindness!

Bandaging of a wound is decided on a case-by-case basis. The benefits of bandaging include reducing contamination and limiting movement of the healing tissue. However, some studies have shown that heavy bandaging can encourage proud flesh by limiting oxygen to the wound. The type of bandage can have an effect, so my doc may recommend one kind for the first few days and then switch to a different one as the wound progresses. Depending on the location, she may recommend resting your horse in a stall or small paddock to limit his movement and the stress on the wound edges.

How Do We Treat It?

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, proud flesh happens. Horses do love to make it! My doc will examine the wound for causes of lingering infection or inflammation. She may need to take x-rays or do an ultrasound to look for bone fragments or a foreign body. Antibiotics may be needed to control infection. Because there can be other growths that look similar to proud flesh, such as summer sores, sarcoids, or certain cancers, my doc may recommend a biopsy to be sure it’s definitely just proud flesh.

If the proud flesh is minor, appropriate wound care and topical creams may be sufficient to resolve it. A wound cream with a steroid can help to reduce the inflammatory response and turn off the signal to produce granulation tissue. Steroids aren’t a panacea though and should only be used once my doc has checked out the wound, because if there is infection present, steroids can make it worse.

The most effective treatment for significant proud flesh is to trim excessive tissue surgically. Because the proud flesh is taller than the surrounding skin edges, it forms a mountain that the new skin cells can’t climb over. The goal of surgical debridement is pretty simple – the proud flesh is cut back to just below the level of the surrounding skin edges. If the wound has been present for a while, the skin margins may be unhealthy and require a little trimming as well to create a fresh edge that is ready to heal. Proud flesh bleeds a lot, since it’s full of tiny blood vessels, but since it doesn’t have nerve endings, trimming it isn’t painful for the horse. Usually, the procedure can be done on a standing horse with just a little sedation. General anesthesia is rarely required, and my docs often don’t even need to numb the area unless they need to trim unhealthy skin.

Afterwards, the new skin can continue growing inward from the edges. This process may need to be repeated a few times, depending on the size of the wound. If the wound is so large that the skin can’t easily grow over it, your horse might be a candidate for skin grafts. Small pieces of healthy skin are taken from another area (often the top of his neck under the mane) and plugged into the granulation tissue of the wound. The little islands of skin grow where they are inserted and speed up the rate of healing.

So when your horses gets a wound, work with my doc to treat it correctly from the beginning. Early intervention and good management are always the keys to quick and successful wound treatment. Now that’s something you can be proud of!

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. If you aren’t subscribed to my blog yet, be a good human and scroll down to the purple box. It’s right below this, you can do it. Good human. You don’t want to rely on social media to get my blog to you, as it’s nearly as unreliable as dogs are. Just put your email address in the purple box, and I’ll send my blog right to you every week. I know, I make it so easy for you! You’re welcome.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Coronary Band Dystrophy

Coronary Band Dystrophy

Tuesdays with Tony

Today we’re going to talk about what’s going on when your horse’s coronary bands look weird. I’m going for a specific weird today, not just any old weird. Read on to learn more about Coronary Band Dystrophy, and autoimmune disorders in general.

What Does Coronary Band Dystrophy Look Like?

This is an issue my Docs can spot from a mile away. The hair at the coronary band sticks straight out so it’s parallel to the ground. The hoof wall is rough, with multiple horizontal ridges, and it has a dry, cracked appearance. Check out the arrows on my graphic to better see what I’m talking about. Horizontal ridges appear during laminitic episodes as well, but they are larger, and more distinct than those seen with coronary band dystrophy. The hoof wall itself also doesn’t get quite as roughened, dry, and crackly with laminitis. 

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The sole of the foot is often affected as well. The frog is particularly prone to thrush, and shedding excessively. All of this can contribute to cracks so deep the horse bleeds, kind of like you humans in the winter with your hands. I don’t like scritches from those rough hands!  If your horse has coronary band dystrophy you may also want to check out the chestnuts. Some horses get similar cracking and splitting there as well. 

Coronary band dystrophy is often going on for a while before it’s spotted. You humans, understandably, chalk it up to wet hair, dirt on the hoof, wet conditions, thrush, you name it. It’s very easy to overlook, especially in the early stages. 

If you’ve got a great relationship with your veterinarian, and see them twice yearly for routine care, this may be noticed early. In that case, a biopsy of the coronary band can be used to identify the problem. This is a simple procedure where a small amount of tissue is removed and sent to a lab. There, it’s examined under a microscope to look for particular cells. These cells indicate the immune system is attacking the skin. If the symptoms are mild enough to require a biopsy to identify the problem, treatment will be easy and rewarding. Pat yourself on the back for being a good owner! 

Okay, But What Is It?

Coronary Band Dystrophy is a type of a syndrome called Pemphigus. Pemphigus is a group of autoimmune disorders where the body decides skin is bad. This seems like a horrible idea, but sometimes there’s no convincing the immune system it’s wrong. Autoimmune disorders are weird like that. They occur when the immune system suddenly begins to see what is normally considered “self” as “not self.” They can happen in many different ways, and can be extremely difficult to treat. No one knows why the immune system suddenly turns on the body, and no one knows how to get it to go back to normal.

What To Do

Luckily for horses, coronary band dystrophy can usually be managed readily. Much like normal feet, they should be kept clean and dry. This is really hard in Florida during the summer, but honestly, it’s hard for everyone, everywhere. From there, regular application of a steroid cream to the coronary band helps get the immune system to calm down. This also works on the chestnuts if they’re affected. 

Steroids are a blessing and a curse. They shut the immune system down when it’s being hyperactive, but they also keep the immune system from doing its very important job of keeping the body safe from invaders. The advantage with coronary band dystrophy is the steroids can be applied topically right where they are needed. This shuts the immune system down there, but not body wide. In that regard, this isn’t such a bad syndrome in the realm of bad things that can happen. 

Coronary band dystrophy is a lesson in noticing the small things and talking with my Docs about those concerns. As official caretaker and treat supplier, you humans do know your horses. If you see something that concerns you, bring it up with my Docs. This is best done by sending an email into the clinic at vets@springhillequine.com with your concerns and a picture of the issue. You humans are good at doubting yourselves sometimes. As a cat, I find this a difficult concept, but let this week’s blog be a life lesson as well as a horse lesson. You’re welcome.

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. If you’re new to this whole horse ownership thing, there’s a lot you need to learn from this cat. You can read my Blogs, watch videos on my YouTube Channel, listen to my Podcast, and read my books. Naturally, I’ve delegated the production of some of these things to my minions, but I make sure they do a good job providing you with all the horse knowledge they can. Why would I do all this for free, you ask? Because Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic’s mission is to make the world a better place for horses (and dogs and cats and goats and sheep). This is what I do. Well, this, and take naps. Lots of naps. That’s a requirement if you’re a cat.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Prep for the Vet

Prep for the Vet

Tuesdays with Tony

All my docs want for the holidays and the New Year is for you to be prepped and ready for when they arrive! Well, that, and cat treats. I know it sounds weird, but that’s what they said. If you’ll send them to me, I’ll make sure the docs get them. It’s okay, I’m a cat. You can trust me.

 There are several small things that can be done to prepare for a veterinarian’s arrival that will not only save time, but can help facilitate safety during the many different procedures that they do at your farm. 

Confined Spaces

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Probably the top recommendation the docs tell me that they’d like for this holiday is to have the horses either caught or brought in from turnout by the time they arrive. Veterinarians have a very distinct smell; I know because I have a very delicate cat nose and I smell them every day. Horses have almost as good a sense of smell as me, and once they smell the veterinarian, they often become difficult to catch. So, having the horses caught before they arrive can save both you and your vet a lot of valuable time. The less time they spend catching your horse, the more time they can spend on the exam and discussions needed for that visit. It also helps them not be late to the rest of their appointments that day, which is basically a public service to all involved.

While you have your horse caught, it’s also valuable to brush any big pieces of mud and dirt off their legs and back. Don’t worry, it’s not because our vets don’t like to get dirty! It’s just easier to palpate legs, tendons, and evaluate the skin if the horse is relatively clean.

Wait, Where Are You?

Luckily, the veterinarians all have high tech phones with little maps that tell them where they need to go. It’s very handy. That being said, let the vets know how to get to you and give them a heads up if you’re a lucky one and your address is off the grid! Having instructions ready and standing at a corner street or end of your drive to wave the vets down is extremely helpful and a timesaver. Additionally, keep in mind if your farm numbers are visible in the dark and consider getting reflective numbers or a small solar light to illuminate those numbers once the sun sets. If my doc is trying to find your farm in the middle of the night for a colic, you don’t want them cruising up and down the road lost, I promise.

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One at a Time, Please

The vets would love to visit with all of your animals, but corralling any dogs, goats, chickens, etc before the vet arrives can really facilitate efficiency and safety during the exam and treatment of your horse. You know those pesky dogs like to stick their noses everywhere, whether the doc tells them it’s a sterile field or not!

This is just an assumption on my part, but it seems like having a cat around would be helpful, unlike dogs and goats. A cat can lend advice, reduce anxiety, and really bring a group together. I’m sure my docs would agree.

How Can I Help?

            So, you called the vet and are waiting for them to arrive. Some supplies to have available are water and an electrical outlet (or have an extension cord ready if the closest outlet is in the house). Water and electricity can aid in several different procedures, especially in an emergency situation. Water will be needed in the event of a colic and can help facilitate passing a nasogastric tube. The vets also use water with their dental equipment to rinse the horse’s mouth so they have a clear view of their dentition. Previously, electricity was needed for things like clippers, the ultrasound machine and the x-ray machine. Lucky for us, all of these are becoming cordless and are things we can charge at the clinic before coming to your farm! However, if it’s the end of a busy day, batteries might be low, so having that extension cord handy can be a big help.

            I’m going to keep this short, as I’m sure most of you are still recovering from excessive festivities. My docs will thank you for being prepared when they visit. Thank you, Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year!

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. Some people learn from reading, some from listening, some from watching videos, and some from an in-person presentation. Guess what? My docs have got you covered, no matter what your style is! Of course, you’re already subscribed to my blog, but I also have Books you can read, a Podcast you can listen to, Videos you can watch, and monthly seminars you can attend! I know, I’m very generous, for a cat. This is what I do. Well, this is what my docs do. I mostly just supervise.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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