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Equine Senior Care and Considerations

Equine Senior Care and Considerations

Feb 20, 2023 | Seniors

Tuesdays with Tony

As a cat, I have 9 lives, and am therefore perpetually young, despite my many years of experience. Don’t question me on this. Horses, though… . After many seasons of showing, trail riding, or general riding, you eventually find that your horse has reached the age of retirement and is entering his golden senior years. This can be different for each individual animal, but in general, we consider a horse as a “senior” around 15 to 20 years and older. Senior care is important and can often be overlooked (cats would never allow this, of course). Our senior horses have general maintenance requirements that are very similar to our younger horses that are still in work. Additionally, there are some special considerations when it comes to nutrition, diseases, and cases of chronic lameness. 

Vaccines

In my [not-humble cat] opinion, one of the most important aspects of senior care is to continue the general maintenance that was part of their routine health care. This would include continuing to booster the core vaccines (Eastern Encephalitis, Western Encephalitis, Tetanus, West Nile and Rabies). This is important because horses are constantly exposed to these diseases through mosquitoes, the soil, or other animals, in the case of rabies. Therefore, even if they have been vaccinated their entire life, that does not mean that once they hit their senior years that they no longer need to be boosted. 

Deworming

Similarly, deworming based on fecal analysis is just as important, if not more so, in elderly horses that may have secondary conditions impacting their immune system. These issues make them more susceptible to intestinal parasites. They might have been able to fend them off when they were young, but getting old is rough. I like to deny my geriatric status, but it does make everything a little harder. Cushings (PPID) is just one common senior disease that makes it easier for parasites to flourish. This can mean even if your horse was a low shedder in their younger days, they may not retain that status. The only way to know for sure is at least yearly fecal egg counts. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

No Hoof, No Horse

We should never forget about podiatry care for the senior horse. Not only can they have conditions impacting their feet, but chronic conditions of the tendons and arthritis of the joints can be exacerbated if their feet are overgrown or imbalanced. Have you heard of the saying, “no hoof, no horse?” That applies at all stages of life! 

Condition

Another general consideration for our senior horses is to monitor their hair coat and body condition in the extreme times of the year, when it is excessively hot or cold. Horses that are underweight, or those that are not growing a thick coat, may need to be blanketed in cooler weather, especially if there is limited shelter available. Conversely, if your horse is over-conditioned, or fat, or has a thick hair coat, they may be prone to overheating in the summer. These horses may need to be clipped, given additional shade, and in some cases even stalled with a fan. We’ll discuss some disease conditions in seniors that may predispose them to these sensitivities. 

Nutrition

As with all life stages, nutrition plays an important role in the health of your animal. Luckily, many companies, such as Purina, Nutrena, Triple Crown, and Seminole, among others, formulate complete feed products for senior animals. Complete feeds include chopped roughage, which is important for horses that can’t chew grass or hay well enough anymore. If your senior horse is unable to chew and digest ordinary feed properly, the senior feeds can be fed at higher rates to act as a complete diet for your horse. It’s important to read the quantity of feed recommended on these, as it’s much higher than non-complete feeds, and you can accidently starve your horse by under-feeding them on senior. Complete feeds are often needed with older horses because they may have worn out the life of their teeth. 

Dentistry

Horses are fairly unique with regards to their dentistry because they have hypsodont teeth. This means that their adult teeth gradually erupt throughout their life and get worn down as they age. This is why veterinarians “float” or file down the teeth in certain areas that can get sharp from this wearing-down process as they age. In their late 20’s and early 30’s the horse may completely erupt the end of some of their molars and this may limit their ability to chew and digest hay and forage properly. 

Some horses can also develop a condition that affects their incisors called Equine Odontoclastic Tooth Resorption and Hypercementosis (EOTRH). It can be a painful condition that we can diagnose based on exam and dental radiographs, signifying the importance of continued yearly dental exams on our older horses. 

Disease Vulnerability

There are a few diseases that we monitor as a horse ages. Some of these diseases are more breed-specific than others. The major endocrine condition that we think of with older horses is Cushing’s Syndrome, also known as Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction (PPID), which causes increased levels of a hormone called ACTH. Some of the clinical signs of Cushings often include loss of topline musculature, long, thick hairs sticking out of their coat (hirsutism) and chronic laminitis. 

Other conditions that can occur in older horses include Equine Asthma, previously known as Heaves, which is often triggered by allergens. Horses can present with coughing and increased respirations. There is also Uveitis, which is inflammation in the eye that can lead to blindness. A more well-known term for this condition is moon blindness. Finally, previous injuries or the impact of a previous athletic career can result in managing chronic lamenesses and long-term pain management. 

Some medications that can help manage these conditions include Equioxx or bute. Some injuries may need to be managed with joint injections, such as Arthramid or PRP-type products. In any case, having your veterinarian help create long-term strategies for pain management is essential in maintaining an older horse’s quality of life.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic 

Golden Golden Years

Overall, once our horses reach their senior years, they still require some extra love and attention that your equine veterinarian is happy to provide. The key takeaway from this information should be that age is not a disease, it is just a number! We are lucky to have many advances in equine veterinary medicine care that are allowing our horses to live longer than previously expected. With diligent care, we can make our horses’ senior years some of their best years. 

Ask my minions about the Senior Add-on to your Wellness Plan at your next visit! Our Senior Wellness add-on includes routine bloodwork, testing for Cushings (PPID), and foot x-rays. There’s no better way to make sure your Super Senior is monitored for early signs of little problems so they don’t become big problems. This wise cat is on the feline equivalent, which you can also ask about, as we have a wonderful small-animal veterinarian now. I highly recommend it. Tasty treats for us patients come with those blood draws!

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. If you haven’t subscribed to this blog yet, be a good human and scroll down to the big purple box. You can do it! There, that’s a good human. Just put your email address in there, and I’ll email you my blog every week. That way you don’t miss out on any of my cat wisdoms. You’re welcome.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Floating Teeth: Equine Dental Care

Floating Teeth: Equine Dental Care

Feb 13, 2023 | Dentals

Tuesdays with Tony

I, being the hard working feline that I am, am often hand fed by my humans and do not often have to think about the use of my teeth. Your horse, however, requires roughage (hay, grass, other gross green things) in their diet which they generally need to use their teeth for. Today we are going to talk about equine dentistry and the effects it has on your horse’s well-being. 

If you’re a reader of this blog, I know you care deeply for your equine friends. You have your veterinarian out on a regular basis, vaccinate for the things they recommend, and only deworm based on fecal egg counts as directed by your veterinarian. So, who’s floating your horse’s teeth?

If it’s not also your veterinarian, keep reading. Oh–and even if it is–you should still read the rest of my blog.

What Do We Do to Horse Teeth During a “Dental”

Horse teeth are designed to grow continuously throughout the horse’s life. As the horse chews, they wear down their teeth. When the mouth is balanced, the teeth wear down in a relatively even way. Once imbalances start though, they only get worse as the grinding action occurs every day. Horses can develop imbalances–things like malocclusions, sharp enamel points, and hooks–for a variety of reasons, and yes they do develop these things “in the wild” too. Some imbalances are relatively minor and don’t prevent the horse from eating, but some cause severe oral pain and make your herbivorous friend taste blood in their mouth. 

So, when my docs go in there with their special tools, what they are doing is correcting those imbalances. My docs use tools called “power floats” which make the dentals quicker and put less strain on their overworked backs, but you may see your veterinarian use tools called “hand floats” which basically just look like metal rasps. And that is where the term “floating a horse’s teeth” comes from–just the name of the tool used! The floats are designed to be used in specific ways to safely grind down the high or sharp points on various surfaces of the teeth in order to bring things closer to being balanced. It is very possible to “over float” however, which is why a dental speculum and bright light are absolutely vital to the dental–and you can’t use those effectively without the magic word: sedation!

Sedation can only be used and administered by or under direct supervision of a veterinarian. There are lay people who claim to float horse teeth out there who use sedation but this cat knows they went under the table to get it–and that spot is reserved for me. So, sedation is used by my docs to make the horses a bit more calm and amenable to the whole process. It is a very light sedation that keeps them standing and aware, but also allows the doctor and technician to be safe while the speculum goes into the mouth and holds it open for the dental exam. 

The dental exam is one of the most vital parts of the entire procedure and is definitely not being performed by lay people claiming to be able to float teeth. The dental exam involves both visual and tactile assessment of every tooth in the horse’s mouth. The docs look for missing teeth, sharp points, oral ulcerations, tumors, extra teeth, you name it they want to find and document it. Just like doing a physical exam for vaccines helps your veterinarian know what is normal for your horse so they can more easily spot abnormal, doing dental exams every year allows them to track progression of any imbalances or abnormalities your particular horse has.

How Often Should Dentals Happen?

For most horses, my docs recommend a dental exam and float once per year. Exams should start within the first few years of life and often there are already mild sharp points that my docs take down quickly with their power float. Starting dentals early helps find any issues your horse was born with so they can be managed over time. It also helps young horses get used to the sedation of the speculum and the noise of the float in their mouth, which will make them better patients for the next visit.

Regular dental work by a veterinarian can help prevent pain and discomfort, improve chewing ability so they get more out of each piece of food, and can even improve behavior and comfort while working. Sometimes my docs will recommend twice yearly dental work for young horses with pre-set imbalances so we can set them up for success in later life, and very often my docs will recommend twice yearly dental care for older horses who teeth are starting to “expire.” 

Don’t worry, I’m not going to go Tim Burton on you, by expire I just mean teeth that are so worn down they are not very effective at grinding anymore. If a horse lives long enough, this will happen, and it takes a skilled hand to manage the teeth around that one, especially the one directly across the mouth from it. Remember how I said at the beginning that the teeth are designed to grow for the entire life? Well, if one expires, the one opposite on it on the upper or lower jaw will often keep growing, and growing, and growing…

For horses that don’t get regular veterinary dental care, this leads to the sensation of having a giant pillar in their mouth that they can’t quite chew around, and will often make them less likely to eat. If my docs meet an older horse who isn’t keeping weight on or isn’t eating well, one of their first steps will be a dental exam and likely floating the teeth!

Take Home Points

What this cat wants you to know is this: all of your horses should have dental care performed with sedation by their veterinarian at least once per year. 

It doesn’t matter what a lay person tells you about how “skilled” or “specialized” they are in equine dentistry, they are not qualified to appropriately manage your horse’s teeth.

A horse’s teeth are vital to their digestion of nutrients. Most horses eat hay or grass as the majority of their diet. This is known as roughage because the plant fibers need to be broken down by the grinding action of the teeth. This is why older horses that have expired teeth should switch to a complete or “senior” feed. Senior feeds have the roughage component in them already ground down, essentially doing the work of the teeth prior to entering the horse’s mouth! 

Well, I hope that gives you some perspective on equine dentistry. If you have any follow up questions my docs are always happy to answer, just give the clinic a call or talk to them at your horse’s next wellness appointment!

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. Be a good human and scroll down to the purple box and subscribe to my blog. Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know when a new one is out. My subscribers get it right in their email inbox, and a day earlier than everyone else! Go ahead, just scroll down a little further. Good human. You can do it!

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Subtle Lameness

Subtle Lameness

Feb 6, 2023 | Lameness

Tuesdays with Tony

Ah, the subtle lameness. This is often a source of medical mystery for my Docs. For me, it’s like a good Netflix drama. Is the problem even what you think it is? One minute you’re sure it’s the left rear leg, but it turns out it’s really the neck, and sometimes it isn’t even a lameness! It’s a neurologic issue, or even a muscle disorder. I tell you, it’s high suspense around here! How do my Docs even begin to unravel the mystery? Read on while I drop some cat wisdom on you.

Start at the Beginning

Everyone always wants lameness exams to start with trotting, or riding, or something where they can show off the lame part. My Docs never start here. It’s even more important with the vague lameness. They start by talking with you about what’s going on. The story is often long, complicated, and can have some subtle plot points. 

It may be that it all started with a day where Flicka didn’t feel quite right. From there, some days have been good, maybe some bad. There could be a buck when turning left and picking up the canter. There could be a skip when coming down to a trot from the canter. All those little clues help my Docs begin to formulate an idea. That idea is just that, an idea. It’s likely to change as more information is added, but it’s the starting point of what’s really going on. Much like that Netflix show, there may be some false clues in here, but without exploring them all, my Docs often can’t know what’s real and what’s not. 

Hands On

We’re still not going to run the horse around. The next step is a full cat scan… er, human scan. I’m generally very involved from a supervisory standpoint for this part. My Docs will poke, prod, flex, extend, and turn all your horse’s parts while standing still. 

Each Doc goes through this a little differently, but the general idea is to get their hands on every part of your horse, and to move those parts through their normal range of motion while standing still. This is often very telling about where horses are stiff, sore, or generally reactive. Excellent clues are gained from this section of the exam. Those ideas from earlier are expanded upon, modified, and sometimes changed all together. 

Finally, We Move

Once there has been time spent on history, and hands laid upon the horse, then we head out to see how they move. Generally, my Docs start on grass footing. They watch the horse walk away from them, towards them, and from the side. They will often watch, and then video. Then they do the same at the trot. Depending on how that goes, next may come flexions, or heading to a hard surface to see what happens there, or some circles in both directions. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Different problems show up in different places. Some things don’t like hard surfaces, some don’t like soft, some don’t like to be on the inside of a circle, and some object strongly to being on the outside of the circle. Especially with a subtle lameness, my Docs are going to run through a lot of scenarios. They are also going to video a lot of those scenarios and watch them in slow motion. Slow motion can really highlight an area that isn’t moving normally. Turns out those phones are good for something more than Facebook! 

A Cautionary Tale of Flexions

Flexions are a let’s stress this area and see what happens kind of test. They are far from perfect, but they can sometimes point to an area that hurts when it’s bent, held, and then asked to move. However, flexions can lie in all sorts of ways. Occasionally, there’s a well-performing horse with no issues that trots off like it has a broken leg when flexed. More often there are lame horses that trot off exactly the same when flexed. Flexions add information to the mystery; they don’t solve it!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Even More Moving

With a subtle lameness, my Docs will often have you ask the horse to perform their normal job. My Docs will watch the horse go through their paces. They nearly always video this part, especially if faster gaits or quick turns are involved. Even my Docs are only human, and videos help them see the subtle changes going on. For many of these not-so-obvious lamenesses, it takes until this step to really fully complete that inkling of an idea that happened way back at talking to you about history. 

Next Steps

Depending on all the previous steps, the next step can be a variety of things: blocking, radiographs, or ultrasound. Blocking involves numbing an area to see if the problem stops. There are obvious issues with this system. Sometimes you have what we call an unblockable area. Many back and pelvis issues fall under these categories. The other issue is some horses really change the way they move when some part of their body is numb. Last week we had one that held his leg up in the air because his foot was blocked. Very, very difficult to continue a lameness like that! There was nothing to do but wait for the block to wear off and try a different plan. Ah horses. 

Some areas my Docs image before they block if they are suspicious. Proximal suspensories often fall in this category. To block them, you have to put liquid where the ultrasound then looks, which makes it look like you have a really, really bad suspensory issue when it might just be your block. Some areas, like backs, don’t always respond great to blocks so x-rays or ultrasound may be the next step. 

Next, Next Steps

After narrowing down their ideas to a primary problem, my Docs will work on a plan to address that primary issue. This may involve injections, rehab therapy, spinal manipulation, acupuncture, a change in tack, or any of a number of things. Often there is a combo pack of things that need to be done to help these horses. Rarely is it a let me give your horse this magic injection (or pill) and all will be fixed! 

Subtle lamenesses can be frustrating. Making sure you have reasonable expectations for the process, and knowing the results often require a lot of work can help everyone arrive at the best answer for the horse. Unlike Law & Order, the perpetrator isn’t always found in 47 minutes. Sometimes it can be an 8-episode series, and there’s no binge watching allowed. We hope for a 2-3 episode max series to solve the mystery, but horses have their own ideas about what’s entertainment.

One thing I didn’t mention was the rider. An unbalanced rider can make it difficult for the horse to do all the things. That’s a whole different blog, and may require some professional help for the rider (physical therapist to figure out your body, mental therapist to help you accept that you’re not perfect, etc). My humans just released a podcast episode about that very topic called Unbalanced Riders, so make sure you’re subscribed to the show, or head over to the Podcast Page of my website to listen in!

Until next week,

~Tony

P.S. Be a good human and scroll down to the purple box and subscribe to my blog. Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know when a new one is out. My subscribers get it right in their email inbox, and a day earlier than everyone else! Go ahead, just scroll down a little further. Good human. You can do it!

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Types of Colic

Types of Colic

Jan 30, 2023 | Colic

Tuesdays with Tony

While a rose is a rose is a rose, a colic is not a colic is not a colic! The old saying implies that when all is said and done, a thing is what it is, but colic in horses isn’t really just one thing. Colic is a catch-all term for abdominal pain, but a number of issues might be going on in that dark mysterious place that is your horse’s belly. While the outward signs can look similar (rolling, pawing, lack of interest in food, etc.) it takes some detective work in my doc’s examination to determine the cause of your horse’s colic.

Depending on what the actual problem is, the treatment can be very different. It can be confusing to horse owners that the remedy that worked on their horse before isn’t the right choice for the colic they’re dealing with now. I’ve written several blogs filled with my cat wisdom on how to prevent colic, but today let’s talk about the different kinds of colic so you can have a better understanding of what my doc is describing if a colic happens.

There are a few broad categories of colic – non-strangulating obstructions, strangulating obstructions, inflammatory conditions, and “other stuff” that doesn’t really fit into those other categories. There are about 100 feet of intestine in your horse’s belly, so unfortunately there’s a lot that can go wrong. I won’t describe every possible abdominal problem your horse could think up, because frankly we’d be here all day and I have a clinic to supervise!

Non-Strangulating Obstructions

This is the largest category of colic my docs see. In these types of obstructions, something is blocking the passage of feed material through the GI tract. Because the blood supply to the gut isn’t cut off (aka strangled), the intestinal tissue isn’t badly damaged (at least not immediately). Non-strangulating colic can often be managed medically, meaning that with appropriate care such as pain medications, oral or intravenous fluids, and laxatives, many can get better without surgery.

The type of non-strangulating obstruction you’re probably most familiar with is a feed impaction. It’s basically constipation. Food gets lodged somewhere in the GI tract – frequently the large colon or a part of the small intestine called the ileum. We see impactions a lot when the horse isn’t drinking enough water and gets dehydrated, when he’s not chewing his feed well, or with certain types of feed (cough-cough coastal hay cough) Most of the time, if my docs can rehydrate your horse and soften the impaction, she can get him un-impacted and feeling better.

Also very common are large colon displacements. The not-so-brilliant design of the horse GI tract includes a 12-foot-long large colon that basically has a single attachment point to the upper body wall. Why is that a problem? Because it allows the colon to move around the abdomen. Sometimes the colon turns in such a way that it kinks off the passage of feed material and gas or gets trapped against other organs. We call this a right dorsal displacement or a left dorsal displacement (aka nephrosplenic entrapment), depending on what direction the colon has moved. Some of these can be treated medically, but sometimes the colon will fill up with food and gas and get really wedged. It can get bad enough that the gut becomes damaged, and the horse won’t survive without surgery.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Other kinds of non-strangulating obstructions include sand impactions, which is ingested sand that accumulates in the large colon, and enteroliths, which are mineral stones that develop in the colon and grow large enough to cause a blockage. Enteroliths can require surgery to remove if they get large enough to cause a problem. Young horses that aren’t dewormed properly can even develop an obstruction made of ascarid parasites.

Strangulating Obstructions

Thankfully, strangulating obstructions aren’t as common as the non-strangulating types, but when they do happen, you have to move fast to save the horse’s life. These colics occur when part of the GI tract gets twisted or trapped in a way that cuts off the blood supply to the gut. Strangulating colics are much more serious and always require surgery to treat.

Signs of pain often come on quite suddenly and can be quite severe, with a very high heart rate and violent rolling. It’s usually difficult or impossible to control the horse’s pain with medications. The bowel begins to die quickly once the blood supply is cut off, so there’s no time to lose and your horse will need to be on his way into surgery quickly. Yet another reason to contact your vet immediately if your horse is showing signs of colic.

There are several types of strangulating colic. A “volvulus” of the large or small intestine occurs when the piece of bowel twists on its own axis and tightens down. Because of the long attachments and the ability of the bowel to move around the abdomen, volvulus can occur as an “accident” for no known reason. Large colon volvulus also tends to occur in broodmares shortly after foaling.

Another common strangulating lesion, especially in older horses in their later teens and 20’s, is a lipoma. A lipoma is a benign fatty tumor growing from the mesentery (the tissue that connects the intestine). The lipoma itself isn’t the problem, it’s the fact that the lipoma grows suspended from a thin rope of tissue like a stalk. Lipomas can exist in the abdomen for years without causing an issue, but if they get wrapped around the intestine, they will quickly cause the tissue to die. The treatment is surgical removal of the dead intestine and suturing the healthy ends of intestine together.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Entrapment colic occurs when small intestine gets stuck in a place where it’s not supposed to be. Epiploic foramen entrapment is when the intestine wiggles itself into a narrow opening between organs in the front of the abdomen, called the epiploic foramen. The foramen is a normal part of the horse’s anatomy, but the intestine isn’t meant to get in there. Another way entrapments happen is through an abnormal tear in the mesentery (a mesenteric rent) or in the gastrosplenic ligament. In both cases, there is an abnormal opening where there isn’t supposed to be one, and the intestine finds its way in there and gets stuck.

An intussusception is a weird type of colic where a piece of intestine telescopes inside the adjacent intestine and gets stuck. It’s an infrequent cause of colic and tends to affect young horses. Eventually, like all strangulations, the blood supply is cut off and the bowel starts to die.

The prognosis for a strangulating colic depends on how long the colic has been going on, how much intestine is involved, and how quickly the horse is operated on. While strangulating colics are invariably very serious situations, if treatment is performed fast, many will make it through surgery and be discharged home.

Inflammatory

Inflammatory colics are usually caused by infection by bacteria, viruses, or mold. Sometimes it’s possible to find the specific microorganism causing the problem, like salmonella or clostridium, but frequently the exact cause can’t be identified. Inflammatory colics can involve the large colon (colitis), small intestine (enteritis), or the peritoneal space inside the abdomen that contains the organs (peritonitis). Unlike most of the other types of colic we’ve discussed, inflammatory colics may have a fever.

They can all range from relatively mild to extremely severe. The inflammation of the colon in a colitis case usually results in diarrhea. Enteritis causes inflammation of the small intestine and a painful fluid backup in the stomach and small intestine. Peritonitis cases might show obvious colic signs, or just depression and a lack of appetite. Depending on what kind of inflammatory colic you’re dealing with, the treatment might be intravenous fluids, antibiotics, decompression of the stomach by nasogastric tube, or lavage of the peritoneal space. Prognosis depends on the amount of inflammation and how sick the horse is.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Other Stuff

There are a few other types of colic that don’t fit easily into one of the categories above. And it’s not that they’re uncommon! Gas colic, sometimes called spasmodic colic, is one of the most common causes of abdominal pain in horses. Gas buildup in the intestine can be caused by changes in diet or activity level, though many times a specific reason can’t be identified. While many gas colics will feel better once the gas moves through, it’s possible for an untreated gas colic to progress into a more serious colon displacement or twist.

Gastric ulcers, or sores in the lining of the horse’s stomach, don’t always show obvious outward signs – they may just have poor body condition, lack of appetite, or attitude changes. More serious cases can show colic signs like laying down and grinding their teeth. They can affect any horse at any age, but they’re most likely to occur in athletes like race or show horses.

As you can see, there are a whole bunch of different ways your horse can colic! It’s not possible to tell the type of colic just by looking at it, so make sure to get my docs involved right away. That’s why they go to school for years and years!

I’m going to give you a Pro Tip from a cat in the know: I see people who are trying to avoid spending $500 on a vet bill when their horse is showing signs of colic, so they try to wait it out. The first few hours that the horse is sick is when it’s the cheapest and easiest to treat him. After that, it gets more expensive, and the chances of a good outcome drop significantly, because most of these things we’ve talked about get worse if left alone, not better. So do your horse (and your wallet) a favor and call sooner rather than later.

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. Now that I’ve whetted your appetite with some serious horse knowledge, you should listen to an episode of Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth, which is my podcast. Well, I have people that do that stuff, just to be clear, but I still claim it. Dr. Lacher is willing to spend way more time talking about this than I am (hey, a cat’s got to sleep, and eat, and there’s only so many hours in the day). She has several very in-depth episodes on colic that will really clog your brain up with next-level facts. You can check it out over on the Podcast Page, or subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts.          

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Crate Training Dogs

Crate Training Dogs

Jan 23, 2023 | Crate Training

Tuesdays with Tony

This one’s for the dogs. The unsophisticated, stinky, dogs. While no cat can be tamed, of course, dogs often need to be contained to prevent messes or not-so-smart choices. I know, it’s embarrassing, right? Dogs. But we should talk it out anyway, just so that we’re all on the same page with best practices.

What is Crate Training?

Crate training can be an effective way to housetrain your dog and teach them to be comfortable in their crate. Positive reinforcement is a great way to train dogs and puppies as it involves rewarding them for good behavior and basically ignoring the unwanted behaviors. There are a variety of different types of crates, so I’m sure you can find one that will work in your home. Here are some of the categories:

  1. Wire crates: Wire crates are one of the most popular types of crates. They are made of metal wire and usually have a removable plastic or metal pan at the bottom. They come in different sizes and often have a removable divider to make it easier to adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. They have good ventilation and are probably the simplest and most accessible to start with, and they are also easy to clean.
  2. Plastic crates: Plastic crates are another popular choice. They are made of hard plastic and usually have a removable plastic or metal pan at the bottom. They are lightweight, durable, and easy to clean. They are suitable for travel, as they are easy to fold and store. These aren’t the best idea if your dog is an aggressive chewer, as they can potentially chew and eat the plastic.
  3. Soft-sided crates: Soft-sided crates are made of fabric and mesh and are lightweight and portable. They often have a steel or aluminum frame for support. They are suitable for small dogs and for travel as they are easy to fold and store. They are not as durable as the wire or plastic crates. These should not be used for crate training but can be used once the dog is acclimatized to the concept.
  4. Wooden crates: Wooden crates are made of wood and are suitable for indoor use. They are not as durable as the wire or plastic crates and are not easy to clean. They are usually heavy and not suitable for travel. These are often the most aesthetically pleasing, and also the most expensive.
  5. Outdoor crates: Outdoor crates are made of heavy-duty materials such as metal wire or plastic, and they are designed to be used outside. If they are weather-resistant and have good ventilation, they can be useful for dogs that spend a lot of time outside. It is vital that they always have free access to water if they are outside and that they are not left outside in extreme conditions.

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Making the Right Choice

It’s important to consider the size and behavior of your dog when choosing a crate. You should select a crate that is just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down comfortably, initially. This specific sizing makes the initial crate training much easier. Once your dog is comfortable in the crate, you can try getting them a larger one, so they have more space, especially if you’re leaving them for the work day.

How Do You Do It?

So, how’s a human supposed to convince your new puppy or adult dog to go into a cage and stay there? Start by introducing your dog to the crate gradually. Place treats and toys inside the crate and let them explore it on their own. The goal is to make the crate a happy place to be. Once they are comfortable inside, you can start closing the door as you sit next to it. Ideally, they shouldn’t even notice the first few times because they’re so enthralled with whatever interesting thing you’ve put inside. This should happen the first day or two you bring your dog home.

This isn’t a new puppy blog, but I will say new puppies are going to cry at night pretty much no matter what (again, embarrassing). Some people choose to put them in their new crate next to their bed, others choose to put them in a pen, bathroom, or other safe space that is not the crate for their first few nights. Wherever you put them should be contained and fully puppy-proofed. That will be a future blog topic in itself, I’m sure. I hear Dr. Speziok talk about it to her clients every day, so it must be important. But enough on that for now. What was I saying? Ah, yes, crate training.

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Gradually increase the amount of time you leave your dog in the crate, and always, always reward them with a treat when they go in. Avoid making a big fuss when you put your dog in the crate or when you let them out. This can create anxiety for your dog and make the process more difficult.

This is an important point that you humans sometimes have a hard time grasping: Crates are not to be used for punishment. Really, punishment is never a good training tool. You can use the crate when your dog needs to be removed from a situation AFTER they’ve gotten used to the crate and associate positive things with it, but it should always be a positive, happy experience to go into the crate. Some of the big brain humans that study animal behavior feel that many dogs think of their crate as a sort of “den.” They consider it their home within the home, and some will be seen to bring toys, bones, or food inside.

Why Crate Train?

A properly sized, properly conditioned crate provides dogs with a safe, private place that is all their own. It allows you to focus on that new Top Gun movie or on sniping in Fortnite (if you don’t know what that means, it’s similar to playing Bingo). It creates independence for both the dog and you and gives them a place to settle. Probably most importantly, for your carpets, at least, it massively improves housetraining success.

While I, as a self-respecting litter box user, have never had to wear a leash, Dr. Speziok always recommends new puppies be kept on a leash or in their crate for the first few weeks they are with you so you can make sure they always make it outside to eliminate. Rewarding good behavior is significantly better than trying to “punish” bad behavior after the fact, mostly because it doesn’t work. Yelling or rubbing a dog’s nose in their mess only makes them fear you, and makes them more likely to hide from you to eliminate in the home. If you become a scary person, they will not be willing to be vulnerable around you, even outside on the leash. This is one of the biggest mistakes that new dog owners make.

What if I Adopt An Adult Dog That’s Already Housetrained?

Every animal in your home should be comfortable going into a crate, cage, or pen of some sort in case of emergency. Yes, this includes cats, though we only acquiesce to that indignity in dire situations. And it’s exactly those dire situations that I’m talking about when I say emergency. For those of us in the southeast US, we know that hurricanes are a major worry during certain parts of the year. At any point, you humans could decide you need to leave your home, city, or even state, and you need to be able to take your animals with you, or at the very least get them to a safe weather-proof shelter. This will, unfortunately, necessitate them going into a crate.

So, even if your dog doesn’t need to be crated while you’re away at work, or at night, you should still go through the exercise of crate training them. Family emergencies, vacations, vet visits, emergency room visits, a tornado removing your roof; the reasons your pet might need to go in a crate on short notice are endless.

Try to take crate training slow and be patient with yourself, other members of your household, and your dog. Be consistent and positive and eventually your dog will be comfortable in their crate. Every dog is different, and some are more difficult (read: obstinate [pronounced: cat-like]) to train than others. Don’t be afraid to find a dog trainer in your area to help you out. Dr. Speziok also recommends two channels on the YouTube: Zak George Dog Training and Kikopup. Just click the highlighted link to visit them.

Oh, also… don’t tell the dogs I told you about this.

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. Speaking of YouTube Channels, make sure you subscribe to mine! Just click on that highlighted bit. It’s filled with great videos that will teach you way more about horses (and goats, and other things) than I’m willing to spend the time writing about. If you aren’t watching them, you’re missing out!

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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