The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! I’m going to start with: I know what you’re thinking – “What does a little mouse like Whinny know about saddles and horses?” Well, let me tell you, I’ve been scurrying around these parts long enough to pick up a thing or two, and today, I’m going to let you in on a little secret – saddle fit for horses!

You see, saddle fit is a lot like finding the perfect pair of jeans. You wouldn’t want to wear pants that are too tight or too loose, right? Well, horses feel the same way about their saddles. If a saddle doesn’t fit them just right, it can cause all sorts of problems. So, grab your lassos and saddle up, because we’re going on a wild ride through the world of saddle fit.

The Basics of Saddle Fit

First things first, let’s talk about the basics of saddle fit. A saddle is like a cozy chair for our horsey pals, and just like us, they want it to be comfy. There are a few key things to consider when it comes to saddle fit:

  1. The Width of the Saddle Tree: The saddle tree is the frame that sits on a horse’s back. It needs to be the right width to match the shape of the horse’s back. If it’s too narrow, it can pinch and cause discomfort. If it’s too wide, it might wobble and make the horse feel like it’s carrying a seesaw. 
  2. The Length of the Saddle: The saddle’s length should match the horse’s back, too. If it’s too long, it can dig into the horse’s loins, and if it’s too short, it might not distribute the rider’s weight properly.
  3. The Gullet Clearance: The gullet is the space under the saddle that gives room for the horse’s spine. It should have enough clearance so it doesn’t press down on the horse’s back. Think of it like a limbo dance – the saddle has to clear that bar!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Those first three are nearly impossible to fix with pads or shims or anything else. They are the basic framework of the saddle.

  1. Even Pressure:The saddle should distribute the rider’s weight evenly across the horse’s back. If there are pressure points or sore spots, it’s like having a pebble in your boot – mighty uncomfortable!
  2. Balance: Just like a rider needs to balance in the saddle, the saddle itself should sit evenly on the horse’s back. If it’s tilted or crooked, it can cause all sorts of trouble for the rider and the horse.

How to Tell if the Saddle Fits

Now that we’ve covered the basics of saddle fit, let’s dive deeper into how to determine if a saddle is a good fit for your four-legged friend. Saddle fit is crucial for your horse’s comfort and well-being, so let’s be thorough:

  1. The Pinch Test: Run your fingers along the sides of the saddle tree. If it feels like it’s pinching or digging into the horse’s back, it’s time to rethink that saddle. Remember, the saddle should provide gentle contact without causing discomfort or pressure points.
  1. The Gullet Check: Look underneath the saddle – is there enough clearance for the horse’s spine? You don’t want it rubbing or pressing on that sensitive area. Ideally, there should be about two to three fingers’ width of space between the saddle and the horse’s spine to ensure proper clearance.
  1. The Sore Spot Scan: After a ride, thoroughly examine your horse’s back for any sore spots or rub marks. Pay close attention to areas where the saddle’s panels make contact with the horse’s back. Sore spots may indicate that the saddle is not distributing pressure evenly, and adjustments or a different saddle may be necessary.
  1. The Wobble Test: When you’re in the saddle, check if it wobbles or rocks back and forth. A stable saddle is essential for the rider’s balance and the horse’s comfort. An unstable saddle can create an unsettling ride experience and lead to discomfort or injury for both rider and horse.
  1. The Balance Test: Get a friend to watch you ride. If that saddle looks tilted or crooked, it’s time for some saddle shopping! An imbalanced saddle can cause the rider to sit unevenly and put uneven pressure on the horse’s back. A well-balanced saddle helps maintain a healthy and comfortable riding posture.
  1. Observe Your Horse’s Behavior: Pay attention to your horse’s behavior while riding. Signs of saddle discomfort may include tail swishing, head tossing, resistance to being saddled, or reluctance to move freely. A horse that’s constantly trying to communicate discomfort is telling you it’s time to reevaluate the saddle fit.
  1. Consult a Professional: When in doubt, seek the guidance of a professional saddle fitter or a knowledgeable equine veterinarian. These experts can assess saddle fit more comprehensively, considering factors such as your horse’s conformation, muscle development, and any unique needs.

  2. Regularly Reassess: A horse’s shape can change over time due to factors like age, training, and muscle development. It’s essential to regularly reassess saddle fit to ensure that it continues to provide comfort and performance benefits for both rider and horse.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    By following these detailed steps and continuously monitoring your horse’s well-being, you can ensure that your saddle fits correctly and promotes the health, comfort, and happiness of your equine companion. Remember, a happy horse makes for a happy rider, and together, you’ll be ready to conquer any riding adventure that comes your way!

    So, next time you’re gearing up for a ride, take a close look at that saddle. Make sure it’s snug as a mouse in a hay pile, and you’ll be off to the races in no time. 

    Until next week,

    ~Whinny

    P.S. Have you seen the latest Horse Girl Goes to the Vet video over on my YouTube Channel? There’s a lot of great content there, with more being added all the time. It’s a great free resource filled with high-quality horse health information, so don’t miss out!

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

    Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

    Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hey everybody, Whinny here! As a little mouse, observing the barnyard dynamics from my tiny vantage point, I couldn’t help but be intrigued when a new horse arrived in the neighborhood. The bustling barnyard is like a world unto itself, filled with its own set of rules and hierarchies. Here’s my take on the tale of the new horse’s arrival.

    Planning for the Newcomer

    Even from my mouse-sized perspective, I’ve heard humans say that horses are like potato chips – you can’t have just one. But before you bring in that new four-legged addition, a little planning can go a long way. 

    The first step is to designate a quarantine area. Now, if your barn is like my quiet little corner of the barnyard, this may not be a big deal. “Boring” farms, in our terms, are those where horses rarely come and go, or if they do, it’s for short trips like a peaceful trail ride. These outings have minimal exposure to contagious diseases. In such cases, a 7-day quarantine period is usually sufficient. The new horse should be kept in a stall or paddock with no nose-to-nose contact with other horses.

    However, if your farm sees more traffic or if the new horse is coming from a bustling place, it’s definitely time to consult your trusted veterinarians for guidance. This requires a bit more planning on your part!

    The Early Days of Introduction

    Once the quarantine period is over, the real fun begins – introducing the new horse to the established herd. But, let me tell you, it’s not always a graceful ballet; it can be as unpredictable as a cat-mouse meeting. While some, like Tony and me, might establish a harmonious working relationship, that’s not the norm. Be prepared for some discontent among the equine ranks! Expect your horse’s version of a firm “hello” – ears pinned back, maybe even a squeal. It’s all part of their natural behavior. 

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    To keep these introductions as smooth as possible, keep things low-key. Consider moving the new horse into a stall next to one of the current residents. Spend time together near the others, but maintain protective barriers like stall walls between them. Have a halter and lead rope on hand, just in case. The goal is a stress-free greeting for everyone involved. Keep these initial meetings short but allow both horses to go through the process. After all, a bit of posturing and mild confrontations are all part of the horse social scene.

    Integration into the Herd

    Now, let’s talk horse hierarchies. These become incredibly important during the integration phase. In every herd, there are leaders and followers. Figuring out who’s who can make the whole process smoother. While these are general rules, it’s usually best to avoid putting two dominant horses together; that often leads to a lot of power struggles. Most of these conflicts involve some posturing – ears pinned back, hindquarters turned toward another, and minor shoving matches. However, things can escalate, and that’s when injuries become a real concern.

    Introducing your new horse to one horse at a time, then slowly adding others, can make the dominance process easier to manage. It’s typically best to choose a companion that’s the opposite in terms of dominance, but again, it’s essential to consult with the experts for guidance. Besides introducing one horse at a time, ensuring ample space for everyone to establish their roles is also helpful. Throwing 15 horses together in a tiny field is a recipe for trouble, even for a tiny mouse like me.

    Sometimes, getting along isn’t easy, but with careful planning and consideration, everyone can coexist happily, and injuries can be avoided. It’s all about understanding the intricacies of the horse world and facilitating a smooth transition for the new arrival. My docs are always happy to talk you through it if you run into a problem, just give us a call.

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news?  Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is out! You can grab your ebook, paperback or hardcover today, or get a signed copy at our annual Open House on Sept. 30th here at the Clinic. Or you can get one online now and have it signed at Open House. Lots of options!! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

    Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

    Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hi everyone, Whinny here! Here in Florida, it’s been brutally hot lately! I heard my Springhill docs saying it’s even worse than a usual summer. It’s been hard on the horses too – we’ve had a bunch of horses in our area stop sweating, which the docs say is a pretty big problem. They actually want them to get gross and sweaty to stay healthy! There’s a fancy name for when they don’t sweat well enough – Anhidrosis.

    Normal Sweating

    It’s really important for a horse to sweat so it can keep his internal organs at a normal temperature even when he’s working hard or it’s hot outside. Horses have a lot of sweat glands in their skin, and many of them are a different type than the ones you humans have. Have you noticed that when your horse sweats, it’s often white and frothy looking? That’s because they have something called apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids that causes them to look “lathered up”. Sweat also contains a lot of water and electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and chloride. As the water evaporates off your horse’s body, it cools him down, transferring the heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5 Fahrenheit. When he’s exercising, it may be elevated, but will return to normal quickly at rest.

    What’s the Deal with Non-Sweaters?

    When your horse has a decreased ability to sweat like he should in response to an increased body temperature, it’s called anhidrosis. Because sweating is the horse’s primary way of cooling himself, if he doesn’t sweat appropriately it can cause him to get overheated, not perform well, or even develop dangerous heat stroke. Horses lose 65-70% of body heat through their sweat, so if they’re unable to do that, it’s a pretty big deal. Anhidrosis can have a significant effect on your horse’s ability to be ridden and perform or even just function as a pasture pet.

    During hot weather or hard exercise, a horse with anhidrosis won’t sweat as much as he should or might not sweat at all. He can have patchy sweat (like only under the saddle pad), a little sweat, or no sweat. He might appear to be working much harder than he should be or breathing heavily to try to cool off, even after he’s done working or just while standing around.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Anhidrosis is a problem mainly in hot and humid, tropical kind of places, like my dear home state of Florida and other states around it. This is especially a problem when the temperatures stay high for long periods of time, and don’t drop down much at night, like the perma-summer we seem to have here in Florida. Lucky us! It’s not as common in cooler, more temperate climates, but it can happen there too, especially in heat waves. Making matters worse, when the humidity is high, the sweat is even less able to evaporate into the already water-saturated air, so it decreases how effectively sweat can cool the horse.

    It’s not known exactly why or how anhidrosis happens, but it’s thought that the sweat glands get over-stimulated and so they start to work less well. The onset can be sudden or more gradual. It can happen to horses that are born in a hot climate as well as horses that are new to it. So being from Florida doesn’t protect them, unfortunately. Between 2-6% of horses are estimated to have anhidrosis. No links to specific breeds, ages, colors, or sex have been identifiedthe risk is equal for all horses.

    Chronic anhidrosis has been linked to atrophy (degeneration) of the sweat glands, leading to a permanent loss of the glands’ ability to produce sweat. Researchers are looking into associations with decreased excretion of chloride through the urinary system and in sweat glands, but this is still being investigated.

    Recognizing and Diagnosing Anhidrosis

    Because some horses with anhidrosis still sweat a bit, it can be tricky to recognize if your horse is affected. Some areas of the body can continue to sweat, but not enough to cool the horse sufficiently. For example, a horse with anhidrosis might continue to sweat under his mane or saddle pad.  You may notice first that your horse doesn’t perform well in hot weather. He may take longer than normal to recover after exercise or breathe heavily even when standing in the shade. He may have a higher-than-normal pulse or temperature.

    Here are some things to watch for:

    • Lack of sweat, or a small amount of sweat, in situations when other horses are sweating a lot
    • Coat is dry and clean to the touch
    • Fast or labored breathing, especially when standing around not working
    • Flared nostrils
    • Low energy or fatigue
    • Slow ability to cool down after exercise
    • Increased body temperature (especially serious when it’s higher than 104)
    • Seeking and remaining in the shade (especially if food is elsewhere)
    • Sometimes, eating or drinking less than normal
    • In chronic cases dry, itchy or flaky skin. Sometimes there is hair loss.

    My docs can often diagnose a horse based on their physical exam and the signs your horse is showing. If the diagnosis isn’t certain, there is a test they can do to check the amount of sweat your horse is able to produce. For this test, my doc injects a small amount of a medication called terbutaline into the horse’s skin to elicit sweating in that spot. That tests the amount of sweat your horse can produce compared to a normal horse.

    Treatment

    So if your horse is a non-sweater, what to do? Well sure, if you move your horse to a cooler climate where hot, humid weather is less likely, they will certainly be more comfortable. Many horses will start sweating again when they are in a cooler environment, and that is the only surefire approach. But, it may not be a realistic option for many people and horses.

    One of the simplest things to try is an electrolyte supplement, which is a good idea in the summer even if your horse sweats normally. Several remedies that have been tried over the years, with variable success, including commercial supplements such as One AC or Platinum Refresh, and even dark beer such as Guinness. Most of them are fairly safe to try, though they may or may not work. At Springhill Equine, we often use a combination of acupuncture and Chinese herbal therapy and find that can be quite successful in some cases.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Here are some other ways to keep a non-sweater more comfortable:

    • Keep him in a stall or shaded paddock during the day. A severely affected horse may not be able to tolerate turnout on hot days.
    • Provide fans, misters, or a sprinkler. Some horses will cool off in a pond if they have access to one.
    • Make sure he always has cool water to drink
    • Keep work to a minimum during the hot times of the year and ride early in the morning

    It’s better to prevent your horse from getting overheated than to have to treat him if he does, but if you get in a bind here are some steps to follow

    • Move him somewhere shady
    • Hose him down with a continuous flow of cool water or sponge him repeatedly with water from a bucket filled with water and ice
    • Use portable fans
    • Offer him cold water to drink
    • Take his temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate if you can
    • Call my doc!

    So if your horse is all stinky and sweaty after a ride, and you have to bathe him and wash your saddle pads yet again, don’t grumble about it, be happy about that sweat!

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is available for pre-order! You can reserve your ebook today, and it will release on Sept. 8th! If you prefer a paperback or hardcover, they’ll be releasing on (or a bit before) Sept. 15th, just a week or so away! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

    Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

    Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
    Bumps and Masses on Dogs

    Bumps and Masses on Dogs

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Your Pup has a Bump! Here’s What We’re Going to Do

     Hello there, curious pet owners! It’s your sassy and savvy clinic mouse, Whinny, here to enlighten you about a rather common scenario that often has our Springhill Equine clinic buzzing – the discovery of a mass on your feline or canine companion. You know, those little (or not-so-little) bumps and lumps that can pop up unexpectedly during routine check-ups? Yep, we’re diving into how our talented veterinarians handle these mysterious masses and what options you and your furball have.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Not all masses are created equal. Some can be harmless, while others might demand more attention.

    So, let’s get down to business. Picture this: You’re cuddling with your pet, giving them all the love they deserve, and you happen to notice a peculiar lump. Cue the concern! Whether you’ve stumbled upon it or your vigilant vet has spotted it during a routine check-up, these solitary masses can stir up quite a ruckus in our minds.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Approach #1: “Wait and See” – Not So Much

    First up, the “wait and see” approach. Now, I’m all about giving life’s little mysteries time to unravel, but when it comes to masses, that’s a no-go. These lumps are the body’s way of saying something isn’t quite right. So, the verdict? Skip the waiting game and opt for a professional evaluation.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Masses don’t usually vanish into thin air. They’re here to stay until we intervene.

    There is just no way to know what a mass is from the outside most of the time. So waiting risks a very bad mass getting worse over time.

    Approach #2 and #3: Peek Inside with FNA and Biopsy

    At Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic, we’re big fans of FNA – a fancy abbreviation for fine-needle aspiration. This nifty technique involves inserting a tiny needle into the mass, collecting a sample of cells, and examining them under a microscope. It’s like a sneak peek into the mass’s identity! The best part is an FNA can often be done with your dog or cat awake and distracted with treats like cookies, my favorite!

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Quick and relatively painless procedures, like fine-needle aspiration (FNA), can work wonders in diagnosing sneaky masses. You could say they’re fast, friendly, and informative – a bit like me!

    But wait, there’s more! Biopsies step in when we need a closer look. Biopsies involve removing a small but solid piece of the mass for further analysis. They’re more thorough but can be a tad more invasive. Think of them as sending a piece of the puzzle to a detective – our pathologist – for examination. They most often involve anesthesia or very heavy sedation as well as local anesthesia. They’re essentially a mini surgery.

    Approach #4: The Full Monty Workup

    Sometimes, the mysterious mass is just the tip of the iceberg. That’s where the “complete workup” comes into play. This star-studded lineup includes a complete blood count (CBC), a serum biochemistry profile, radiography (fancy term for X-rays), abdominal ultrasonography, and urinalysis. It’s like rolling out the red carpet for diagnosis, revealing insights about your pet’s overall health. A full workup is like giving your pet a VIP treatment – thorough and illuminating.

    Diagnosis Time: The Mass’s True Identity

    Once we’ve peered into the mass’s soul – I mean, cells – it’s time for the big reveal. Is it a benign neoplastic, malignant neoplastic, inflammatory, or hyperplastic mass? This information guides us toward the next steps.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Knowing your enemy – uh, I mean mass – is half the battle won.

    If the mass is a troublemaker and we’re sure it’s malignant, surgical excision usually gets the green light. Cutting out the bad apple can work wonders. And if the mass is playing hide and seek with its metastatic buddies (spread to other areas), chemotherapy might be the hero of the story. Treatment may happen at our clinic, or we may refer your pet out to a cancer specialist—called an oncologist—for the most advanced treatment modalities.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Fear not, if we do recommend chemotherapy or radiation for your pet’s mass it is important to know the mantra of veterinary oncology: QUALITY of life is much more important than quantity of life. Because our furry friends don’t always know why they’re going in for treatment, we focus on keeping it positive and pain free. Over 80% of dog and cat chemotherapy patients have ZERO side effects for the duration of their treatment. We believe in giving our four-legged heroes the best shot at a quality life, and sometimes that involves surgery, chemotherapy, or radiation.

    So there you have it – a glimpse into the intriguing world of solitary masses in our beloved furry companions. Remember, if you ever stumble upon a mysterious lump, don’t let it be the elephant in the room. Your vigilant veterinarians at Springhill Equine are always here to help uncover the truth and guide you and your pet through this puzzle-solving journey. Until next time, keep those cuddles coming and those masses on the run!

    ~ Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is available for pre-order! You can reserve your ebook today, and it will release on Sept. 8th! If you prefer a paperback or hardcover, they’ll be releasing on Sept. 15th, just a few weeks away! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

    Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

    Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
    A Safe and Smooth Vet Visit

    A Safe and Smooth Vet Visit

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    A Safe and Smooth Vet Visit – A Mouse’s Guide for Horse Owners

     Hey everybody, Whinny here! As a perceptive little mouse who has observed many horse vet visits, I’m here to share some valuable tips with all you horse-owning humans to ensure a safe and successful appointment. Preparing for a vet visit is essential to keep your equine friends healthy and happy. In this blog, we’ll cover the importance of catching and haltering your horse, how to keep veterinarians safe during procedures, and the role of phone use and attentiveness as an owner. So, let’s scurry into action and get ready for a pawsome vet visit!

    Catching and Haltering Your Horse

    The process of catching and haltering your horse can set the tone for the entire vet visit. Follow these tips to make it a positive experience:

    • Build Trust: Spend quality time with your horse regularly, engaging in grooming and gentle handling to establish trust. A trusting relationship will make catching your horse much easier for both you and your horse.
    • Practice Regularly: Make a habit of catching and haltering your horse, even without a vet visit scheduled. Regular practice reduces stress and resistance during the actual visit.
    • Use Proper Equipment: Ensure the halter fits well and is in good condition. Avoid using makeshift halters or ropes, as they may cause discomfort and pose safety risks.
    • Positive Reinforcement: Offer treats and praise as rewards when your horse willingly approaches for haltering. Positive reinforcement fosters cooperation during vet visits, but remember, a little bit of treats go a long way!

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Keeping Veterinarians Safe During Procedures

      A safe environment and the owner’s cooperation are essential for veterinarians to perform procedures.

      • Provide a Safe Area: Ensure your horse is in a designated area that is clean, well-lit, and free of hazards like clutter. A safe environment minimizes the risk of accidents during procedures.
      • Communicate with the Vet: Share your horse’s medical history, behavior patterns, and any concerns you may have with the veterinarian. Clear communication enables the vet to plan accordingly and make informed decisions.
      • Stay Calm and Supportive: Horses can sense emotions, so maintain a calm and reassuring demeanor during procedures. Your presence can comfort your horse and make the process smoother for the veterinarian.
      • Follow Vet Instructions: Listen carefully to the vet’s instructions and cooperate accordingly. If the vet requires your assistance in holding the horse, position yourself as directed to ensure everyone’s safety. If the vet asks the technician to hold your horse, please allow them to do so.

      Phone Use and Attentiveness as an Owner

      During the vet visit, be mindful of your phone use and remain fully attentive to your horse and the vet.

      • Silence Your Phone: Turn your phone on silent mode or keep it away to avoid distractions. Being fully present allows you to focus on the vet’s explanations and your horse’s behavior.
      • Actively Participate: Engage in the vet visit actively. Listen attentively to the vet’s recommendations, ask questions, and provide necessary information about your horse’s health.
      • Observe Your Horse: Pay close attention to your horse’s body language and reactions during procedures. Being observant helps you understand their comfort level and this information can be relayed to the veterinarian during the visit to help provide the best care to your horse.

      Conclusion

      Well, my human friends, we made it to the end! And now we know how to be well-prepared for a vet visit, and how to make it a great experience for everyone involved. By mastering the art of catching and haltering your horse, creating a safe environment, and communicating effectively with the vet, you set the stage for a squeak-tastic visit. Your cooperation and attentiveness as an owner play a big role in keeping the veterinary procedures safe and effective. So, let’s all do our part to make every vet visit a pawsitive experience, ensuring the well-being of our beloved equine companions. See you next week!

      ~Whinny

      P.S. If you haven’t heard, we’re having our annual Open House event here at the Clinic on September 30th, 2023. It’s going to be the biggest, most exciting event we’ve ever had! Mark it on your calendar now, find the event over on our Facebook page, and I’ll see you there!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
      Sand in the Gut

      Sand in the Gut

      Whinny’s Wisdoms

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Hello again, fellow horse enthusiasts! It’s Whinny, your trusty and knowledgeable mouse guide to equine education. I’m here to provide you with some insights about managing sand colics. As a Florida mouse, I’ve heard a whole lot about sand and its propensity to cause GI upset in those giant, delicate horse guts, and I’ve recently scurried through the veterinary literature to gather more information for you. 

      Sand accumulation in the equine large colon can be as pesky as a mischievous mouse stealing crumbs. Sand gets in the equine large colon when horses graze on sandy pastures or consume feed or hay from the ground. Over time, this sand can build up in the colon, leading to potential digestive issues. The Docs here have seen colons holding as much as 50 pounds of sand! Horses with sand accumulation can have a range from no symptoms, to diarrhea, to colic symptoms. 

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      We’ve all heard the best way to manage sand is to feed psyllium for 7 days once a month. Turns out psyllium is key, but the one week once monthly version doesn’t work. Don’t fret! There are treatments! First let’s learn more about how psyllium and magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) work in the gut. 

      Psyllium, derived from the Plantago ovata plant, is like a fiber superhero, swooping in to promote smooth digestion. It has a high water-holding capacity and acts as a bulk laxative, promoting the movement of ingested material through the digestive tract. Magnesium sulphate, also known as Epsom salt, has osmotic properties. When administered orally or via nasogastric intubation, it draws water into the intestines, increasing fluid volume and facilitating intestinal motility.

      The combination of psyllium and magnesium sulphate seems to have a synergistic effect in clearing sand accumulations. Psyllium’s bulk-forming properties help bind the sand particles, while magnesium sulphate’s osmotic effect aids in softening the feces and promoting their passage along the gastrointestinal tract. To get enough of it into the equine GI tract it has to be administered via a nasogastric tube. Studies found daily treatments for three consecutive days were key to clearing sand. 

      How’s a mouse to know if there’s sand in there? Many of you have put poop in water in a clear bag to see if sand settled to the bottom. Bad news: that only shows that sand is moving. There can be an entire beach-load of sand in there and that plastic bag test will come up clean. The same studies looking at treatments found x-rays of the abdomen were the best for finding sand, and ultrasound could also be used to look at intestinal wall thickness and motility which can be affected by sand. 

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure, and that’s true for sand as well! In fact, it may be the best “treatment” available. Providing horses with a clean and sand-free environment is crucial. Feeding hay in feeders or elevated platforms can help minimize sand ingestion. Feeding hay and grain over large rubber mats can also reduce sand intake. Making sure your horse has plenty of hay in their diet will help them move daily sand accumulations along. All horses should get a minimum of 2% of their body weight in roughage every day! 

      And don’t forget, your veterinarian is like a wise old mouse, ready to guide you on the best path for your beloved horses. They’ll create a personalized plan to keep those horses healthy, happy, and prancing like little mice on a mission!

      I hope these additional tidbits have shed some light on the topic of sand accumulations in horses and the use of psyllium and magnesium sulphate as a treatment option. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Until next time, stay curious and keep your equine friends happy and healthy!

      ~ Whinny

      P.S. Are you subscribed to my blog? Don’t rely on Facebook to deliver it! If you put your email address in the big purple box below, I’ll send you my blog on Mondays, a day before everyone else! And it will always arrive in your inbox, no chance of missing it on Facebook. I promise I won’t spam you, I’ll just email you the blog every week. Just scroll down another inch. Good human, you can do it!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
      Of Mice and Microchips

      Of Mice and Microchips

      Whinny’s Wisdoms

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Hi everyone, Whinny here! As a Florida mouse, I know that summer brings not just bugs and humidity, but also hurricane season! The next few months will bring us the most active time for tropical storms so I decided to bring up about an important component protecting your horse in times of natural disasters or other adverse events – microchip identification.

      If you love your horse (or dog, or cat, which also should be chipped, but I’m mostly talking about horses today) as much as most of the owners that come to my clinic, you want to do everything you can to protect him.  While there are things we can’t control about our horses’ health, providing a safe and reliable means of identifying them is sooo easy to do. A microchip is a solid way of proving ownership, not only in severe weather events where horses could go missing, but also in situations of theft or ownership disputes. In addition, many breed registries and show organizations require microchips nowadays.

      What Is It?

      A microchip is a tiny device about the size of a grain of rice that is implanted into your horse’s neck, under his mane, with a needle. The chip contains a 15-digit numerical code that is unique to your horse. It’s like the VIN number your car has, but for your horse. The number can’t be changed and is a reliable way to identify a horse. Once it’s inserted, anyone with a microchip scanner can read the number and look up the registration information to find out how to contact the owner.

      Why It’s Useful

      Microchips are a better method of identification than lip tattoos or brands. Have you tried deciphering a thoroughbred’s lip tattoo? It can be a guessing game, especially as the horse gets older. Brands can also be difficult to read, and they’re not usually unique to individual horses. Also, both can be altered.

      Microchips are very common in dogs and cats, it’s often part of the routine healthcare performed when getting a new pet. There are many, many stories of lost or stolen pets being reunited with their families thanks to a chip, sometimes even years after going missing. While horses don’t wander off as often as cats  and dogs do, in the case of natural disasters or weather events, horses may have to be left outside and recovered after the danger has passed. They may end up a distance away from home. Rescuers attempting to reunite a displaced horse with its owner have quite a challenge. Think about how many bay geldings you know – I bet it’s a lot! But any horse with a microchip can be quickly and easily returned to its owner.

      A microchip can be a great way of protecting your interests if you are buying or selling horses. A vet doing a pre-purchase exam on a horse can also make sure they have been presented with the correct horse to examine, protecting you as the buyer from potential fraud. On the other hand, when you sell a horse there is always some uncertainty about where your horse will wind up in the future. Equine rescue groups working with horses that have fallen on hard times can trace back the horse’s identification and potentially reunite them with a previous owner. Microchips can also be used to solve disputes about horse ownership. If you have a record of a horse’s microchip that lists you as the legal owner, you have a much stronger case to prove the horse is yours. Organizations such as the Equine Rescue Network are working to supply microchip scanners and volunteers to scan horses at auctions that may ship horses for slaughter. If the horse is microchipped, there is a chance the previous owner of a stolen or slaughter-bound horse may be able to be reached.

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      As if all those reasons weren’t enough, many major breed registries and show organizations now require horses be microchipped with the 15-digit International Organization or Standardization (ISO) chips for identification. These include, just to name a few, the Fédération Equestre Internationale (FEI), the Jockey Club, the United States Equestrian Federation (USEF), the United States Hunter Jumper Association (USHJA) and the Retired Racehorse Project Thoroughbred Makeover.

      How It’s Done

      It’s really not a big deal to put it in. Really, it’s downright easy. I saw Tony get his microchip and he didn’t even feel the need to bite the vet when she did it!

      In horses, the microchip is implanted in the nuchal ligament on the left side of the neck, halfway between the poll and the withers, just below the base of the mane. My docs will do a sterile prep to make sure things are nice and clean, and then use a thingy that looks like a syringe and needle to put in the chip. It’s super quick and doesn’t take much longer than giving a vaccine. Depending on your horse’s personality, he may prefer a bit of sedation or some local anesthetic over the injection site. The chip is tiny and inert, so the vast majority of horses have no reaction to it, though a few might have a small swelling for a few days after insertion. The benefit of microchipping your horse definitely outweighs any risk.

      After it’s in, my doc will wave a little hand-held scanner over your horse’s neck and make sure it reads the chip and then Presto! Your horse is legit.

      My docs will make sure to use to use the approved ISO-compatible chips and record the number in your horse’s medical records. Then it’s up to you to register the code with your contact info and give the number to any breed registries or show organizations you belong to.

      And what does this peace of mind cost? Hundreds? Thousands? Nope, it’s usually around $50 – $75 for the chip and the implantation, plus a little extra if your horse needs sedation or a farm call. Microchips usually last at least 25 years, so if that isn’t a good deal, I don’t know what is!

      What It Does

      • Provides permanent identification that can’t be separated from your horse (or dog or cat) or changed
      • Helps recovery of your animal during a disaster
      • Helps prevent theft and fraud
      • Provides accurate identification for sales documentation
      • Provides accuracy for competitions and breed registries (and is often required)

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      What It Doesn’t Do

      • It’s not a GPS tracker for your animal. You won’t be able to follow the chip to find his real-time location. (There are other devices that can do that though)
      • The microchip itself stores only the  identification number. Your contact info and info you enter about your horse is stored through the online registry when you register the chip. That’s why registration after the chip is implanted is critical. Failing to register the chip, update your contact info, or transfer records basically renders the chip useless.
      • There is no power supply (none is needed)
      • Unlike in cats and dogs, microchips implanted in the nuchal ligament of horses generally do not migrate away from the implantation site.
      • Chips are not a fail-safe that your horse will never end up in a bad situation. Slaughterhouses and auctions don’t routinely scan horses for microchips. Though like I said, equine rescue organizations are working to make this more commonplace.

      So don’t wait until you are facing a situation where a chip could have helped you, because then it is too late. Microchip implantation is simple, safe, simple, and inexpensive. It’s an easy way to protect your horse that will last his entire life.

      Until next week,

      Whinny

      P.S. Word around the Clinic has it that Justin just finished writing Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3, and it will be released on September 15th! Keep an eye on the Books Page of my website for links to purchase in the coming weeks, or get your signed copy at our annual Open House, which is coming up on September 30th!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
      Equine Sacroiliac Joint

      Equine Sacroiliac Joint

      Whinny’s Wisdoms

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Hello everybody, Whinny here! This topic comes to you by popular request. I will be discussing an essential anatomical and functional component of the equine skeletal system – the sacroiliac joint. We’ll explore the structure, function, and clinical implications of these important joints.

      First, a definition: the sacroiliac joints (SI joints) are the articulations between the sacrum and the ilium. But what are those? The equine sacrum and ilium are two important components of the horse’s skeletal system, specifically the pelvis. The sacrum is a large, triangular bone located at the base of the spine in horses and other mammals. It is formed by the fusion of several vertebrae, typically five in horses. The sacrum serves as a vital connection between the vertebral column and the pelvic girdle, providing structural support and facilitating the transfer of forces during movement.

      The Sacrum

      In horses, the sacrum is positioned posteriorly (towards the rear) and forms the back part of the pelvis. Its shape is uniquely adapted to withstand the forces generated during locomotion. The sacrum consists of a body and a broad, wing-like portion on each side known as the alae. The dorsal (upper) surface of the sacrum is slightly concave, while the ventral (lower) surface is mostly flat.

      The sacrum plays a crucial role in distributing weight and forces from the spine and hind limbs to the pelvis and vice versa. It provides stability and support for the horse’s body, particularly during activities that involve weight-bearing, such as running, jumping, carrying a rider, or trying desperately to avoid stepping on a mouse who happens to be in the area.

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      The Ilium

      The ilium is one of the three bones that make up the pelvis, alongside the ischium and pubis. In horses, as well as in humans, mice, and many other mammals, the ilium is the largest and most prominent of the three pelvic bones. It is located on the lateral (outer) side of the pelvis, forming the upper part of the hip bone.

      The equine ilium has a distinctive shape, characterized by a broad, flat wing-like structure known as the iliac blade. The ilium extends dorsally and cranially (towards the back and front, respectively) from the sacrum, curving downward to meet the ischium and pubis bones at the acetabulum, the socket where the femur (thigh bone) articulates.

      The ilium serves as an attachment site for various muscles involved in locomotion, such as those responsible for hip extension and lateral movement. It provides a strong foundation for muscle attachment, allowing efficient force generation and control during movement.

      How It All Works

      Together, the equine sacrum and ilium form an integral part of the horse’s pelvis, contributing to overall stability, load-bearing capacity, and locomotor function. Their anatomical characteristics and proper alignment are crucial for the horse’s performance and soundness.

      The sacroiliac joint is relatively immobile in adult horses. This immobility and stability is reliant on muscular support. Increased mobility causes pain from instability and subsequent osteoarthritis as the bones move against one another. This instability can result in damage to the sacroiliac ligaments which support the joint.

      Resistance to engaging the SI joint causes atrophy of the epaxial musculature and low back pain. Signs of sacroiliac pain can be insidious and hard to identify. Some examples would include back soreness, shifting hind limb lameness, or just poor performance. In certain cases, horses may drag their toes—gotta watch out for those when I’m frolicking in the field with them! Keep in mind that these symptoms can mean a wide variety of things, so don’t assume it’s the SI joint without a good diagnosis by one of my docs.

      Diagnosing the Problem

      Diagnosis often involves imaging and watching the horse go in a variety of ways. The vet may even want to see video of your horse doing what they do best—so jumping or running barrels, especially if the lameness or discomfort is more subtle and not apparent on a simple straight jog. It’s mostly impossible to radiograph the bones of the horse’s lower back because of their size, so ultrasound is one of the most commonly used tools to visualize the joints and bones.

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Treatment

      Treatment for SI joint pain is often multimodal. Just like when you humans injure yourself, keeping recovery simple is often the best step. My docs will often recommend things like chiropractic, acupuncture, FES, and at-home exercises.

      One of the best exercises for your horse’s back involves using cavaletti poles which you probably already have at home. You only need 2-4 but can use more if you’d like. All you have to do is elevate one side of each pole by a small amount, just enough space for me to limbo under. Then, simple as can be, you walk your horse over the poles, making sure they stay in the center so that one side of their body has to lift over the elevated pole and the other side stays mostly flat. This gives them a nice oblique workout and helps strengthen their core, which leads to a healthier back.

      Dr. Yorke and Dr. Carter just did a seminar on acupuncture, which you can watch on my YouTube Channel, and my mentor Tony has written several blogs on that and chiropractic. FES, or functional electrical stimulation, is another great tool in our arsenal for back pain. Tony has a full blog on that HERE, but the gist is that this treatment does a fantastic job of helping decrease muscle spasms and relieve pain. It creates equal amounts of contraction and relaxation of the muscles which helps balance things out. A common sequela of sacroiliac pain is lumbar muscle spasm, pain, and atrophy. FES helps a ton with it!

      Of course, as with many joint issues in horses, an option that we sometimes have to go to is joint injection. The sacroiliac joint is one that responds well to steroids to decrease inflammation, so that is often our first go-to (whereas in a lot of other joints we have moved away from steroids as the first approach). This injection is ultrasound guided, and most often is done at the clinic so our doctors can use our stock system to contain the horse. Because there is so much muscle covering the bones of the pelvis, the doctors use deeply penetrating ultrasound beams to visualize the space they need to get the medication. As with any joint injection or use of steroids, there are risks involved, so they’ll often focus on strengthening exercises and other modalities before jumping into injections.

      Whinny Wisdom: Every time steroids are injected into a joint, the total lifespan of that joint gets shorter.

      The next time our doctors are out for your horse’s wellness exam, talk to them about exercises you can do to strengthen and stretch your horse’s lower back! Prevention is always better than treatment, just like mice are always better than cats 😉

      I’ll get BACK with ya later!

      ~Whinny

      P.S. Word around the Clinic has it that Justin just finished writing Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3, and it will be released on September 15th! Keep an eye on the Books Page of my website for links to purchase in the coming weeks, or get your signed copy at our annual Open House, which is coming up on September 30th!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
      Endocrine Disease in Horses

      Endocrine Disease in Horses

      Whinny’s Wisdoms

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Diagnosing and Treating Endocrine Disease in Horses

      Greetings, fellow mice and equine enthusiasts, Whinny here! Gather ’round, for I have a tale to share about the remarkable value of diagnosing and treating endocrine diseases in our majestic equine friends. As a tiny mouse with a big voice, it’s my job to guide you through this adventure, where we’ll uncover the hidden treasures that lie within these medical marvels. So, grab your miniature saddle and join me as we embark on this journey of discovery! 

      Unmasking the Hidden Villains: A Mouse’s Keen Eye!

      In our quest to support the noble steeds, we must first unmask the hidden villains that plague their endocrine systems. With a keen eye for detail, our talented veterinary heroes employ diagnostic tools like hormone-level measurements and specialized blood tests that commonly include ACTH and insulin levels. These tools enable them to detect conditions such as equine metabolic syndrome (EMS) with insulin dysregulation, and pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction (PPID or Cushing’s disease). Like a mouse spotting a breadcrumb trail, their skills unravel the mysteries of these ailments, leading us to victory! Or at least a diagnosis.

      As Endocrine Disorders are concerned, the two most common conditions that we are testing for are Equine Metabolic Syndrome (EMS) and Cushing’s Disease (PPID). EMS’s key feature is insulin dysregulation. Clinical signs for a horse with EMS can include laminitis, obesity, difficulty with weight loss, and regional adiposity (fat deposits in specific areas such as the crest, shoulder, and tailhead). On the other hand, Cushing’s Disease’s hallmark clinical sign is hypertrichosis, which is a fancy term for an excessively long and sometimes curly hair coat that does not shed out properly. Other signs can include chronic laminitis, loss of topline musculature, delayed healing and suspensory ligament breakdown.

      Things can get tricky when a horse has both conditions at the same time. Reach out to your veterinarian if you think your horse is starting to show any of these clinical signs, as time is of the essence!

      Tailored Treatment Options: A Mouse’s Secret Ingredient!

      Armed with their vast knowledge, our veterinarians craft tailored treatment options to restore equine health. Each option is chosen to address the specific needs of the horse and their unique endocrine condition. Through the use of medications like pergolide for Cushing’s Disease and Insulin Wise or metformin for EMS, combined with lifestyle adjustments, we can bring balance back to our equine friends. As a tiny mouse, I’ve witnessed the transformation firsthand—these treatments are the secret ingredient that unlocks a world of wellness!

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      Nutrition: Fueling Equine Resilience!

      In our pursuit of equine resilience, nutrition takes center stage. Enter the wise nutrition gurus, who use their knowledge to create feeding programs. These programs often are tailored to control sugar and starch intake, incorporate forage and maintain ideal body condition. In the case of EMS, diet management is usually geared towards weight loss and limiting sugar and calories. This may include adding a grazing muzzle to limit grass intake and feeding a ration balancer instead of a complete or senior feed. On the other hand, Cushing’s Disease diet management is focused on current body condition score and whether or not the horse also has insulin dysregulation. Many Cushing’s patients with normal insulin levels graze on pasture and eat senior feeds. If they are overweight, or also have insulin dysregulation, then they will be on a ration balancer and restricted grass access.

      Holistic Care: A Mouse’s Whisker of Extra Support!

      While conventional treatments are essential, we must not overlook the holistic options. Acupuncture and herbal remedies can offer an extra dose of support on our equine heroes’ journey to wellness. These treatments, when integrated with veterinary care, help restore harmony and balance within their bodies. As a tiny mouse with a keen sense of curiosity, I’ve seen the sparkle return to their eyes and heard the spring in their hooves with the addition of acupuncture to their treatment plan.

      Make sure you consult with my vets about any herbs, as they could contain something that conflicts with a medication they are on, or have the same base ingredient, and we don’t want to overload our horse’s system. Herbs may seem harmless, but many of our drugs are based on them, and the details are important!

      Empowering the Equine Community: A Tiny Mouse’s Roar!

      As we wrap up our adventure, let us not forget the value of empowering the equine community. Through knowledge sharing and raising awareness, we mice and horse lovers join forces to create a powerful alliance. By educating horse owners and caregivers about the signs of endocrine disorders, we empower them to take swift action and seek the support of our veterinary heroes. Together, we can roar like a mighty lion, ensuring the health and happiness of our cherished equine companions.

      Conclusion

      In this whimsical journey, we have discovered the value of diagnosing and treating endocrine diseases in horses. With a mouse’s keen eye, we can unmask the hidden villains, allowing our veterinary heroes to help our horse companions. Tailored treatment options, nutrition, and holistic care restore equilibrium to our equine friends’ lives. Through shared knowledge and a united alliance, we empower the horse and human bond.

      Until next week,

      ~Whinny

      P.S. Have you seen the latest Horse Girl Goes to the Vet video over on my YouTube Channel? It’s a riot! Just click on the blue text to watch it (it’s only 90 seconds!). Make sure you like and subscribe so you don’t miss out on upcoming material, like the First Aid for Horses series that’s coming out this fall!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband
      Establishing New Pastures

      Establishing New Pastures

      Whinny’s Wisdoms

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      From Seed to Success: Whinny’s Guide to Establishing a Luscious Pasture

      Greetings, humans! I, Whinny the Mouse, will be your wise and witty guide to all things agricultural. Today, I am thrilled to delve into the captivating world of pasture planting. Whether you’re transforming land into a vibrant pasture or rejuvenating a field overrun by weeds, these key steps will ensure a flourishing property. So, sit back, nibble on a cheese-flavored crumb, and let’s embark on this enlightening journey together!

      Plans for Planting! Oh, the haste that leads to mediocre results! Many a pasture planting endeavor fails due to the lack of a well-thought-out plan. Remember, my eager readers, Rome wasn’t built in a day, and a thriving pasture requires careful planning. Take the time to develop a step-by-step plan that addresses the unique challenges and management requirements of your new pasture. It is also best to think through any potential pitfalls and develop backup and back-backup plans. The local extension agent is your best friend in this scenario.

      The first step is deciding what to plant. Visit your local county extension agent and explore the species, varieties, and cultivars readily available. Remember, not all forage species thrive in your region, so consult with your local county extension agent to determine the most successful species and varieties for your specific area. For the Florida readers, bahiagrass may be your best option. It is well adapted to the various soil types in Florida from sandy, drier sites, to damp flatwoods soils. Unfortunately, it will not tolerate extended periods of standing water, and can be slow to establish in deep sands, but no other forage species has as wide a range of adaptability to Florida soils. Bahia grass is also very adapted to short rotational grazing. This grass can be grazed all the way down to 1-2 inches–real mouse height–before only needing to rest for 1-2 weeks before it can be grazed again.

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      When it comes to planting, timing plays a crucial role. While February often brings a tempting warmth, young seedlings are vulnerable to frost damage. Mid-March through mid-April or mid-June through July are the recommended planting periods for warm-season forages…sooo right about now! Avoid planting in May and early June when hot, dry conditions prevail. Ideal planting conditions include good soil moisture and regular rainfall for the first few weeks to sustain seedlings until they establish a root system. Remember, if it’s as dry as a bone, postpone planting! Late summer or early fall can also be suitable, but remember that growth is slower during shorter days, and plants need time to store nutrients for winter dormancy after the first frost.

      Whether planting seeds or vegetative materials, minimizing weed competition is paramount. Start by ensuring a clean slate, as preemergence herbicides for seeded forage crops are limited. If you’re converting a field with existing grass or grass weeds, consider spraying glyphosate in early fall or spring when those grasses are actively growing. Simply disking the field once or twice before planting won’t eradicate weed issues entirely. Multiple rounds of disking, resting, weed sprouting, and disking again can help reduce the weed population effectively. Additionally, prepare a firm seedbed as fluffy soil dries out quickly and can hamper seedling.

      Speaking of seedlings, these little kids are at the most vulnerable phase, so we have to ensure they have access to nutrients. While the seed itself possesses ample stored energy to initiate growth, once the forage emerges and develops its root system, it craves immediate nourishment, particularly nitrogen. While it is common practice to incorporate fertilizer before or during planting, the best approach is to wait until the plants have emerged a few inches tall and possess a functioning root system. By doing so, we ensure that the tiny plants receive the nutrients they need at the right time, enhancing their chances of flourishing. Fertilizer can cause problems for the large animals we want to live on these pastures though, so it’s best practice to check the guidance on the fertilizer bag before use, though most will recommend waiting until at least ½ inch of rain has washed the pasture before putting grazing animals back on it.

      For those in my neck of the woods, the UF/IFAS Soil Lab will test your soil samples prior to planting to give insights into your property’s specific requirements. If you are not in Florida, look for your state school’s agricultural extension office and I bet they offer a similar service. If the soil’s pH needs correction, you can get advice on the application of lime or dolomite to best incorporate them into the plant root zone. The soil analysis will also guide you in ordering a customized blend of fertilizer tailored to your specific field, complete with instructions for a split application. Remember, young plants don’t require all the fertilizer at once, and dividing the application minimizes the risk of leaching during heavy rainfall.

      Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

      My last whisker of wisdom is this: exercise caution when it comes to grazing. Rushing to graze too soon, particularly with horses that possess top and bottom front teeth, can yield unfavorable outcomes. To determine if it’s the right time, gently pull on the grass plants and observe. If the plant is uprooted or the roots yield under minimal force, grazing should be postponed. As a general guide, most forages should reach a height of 6-12 inches before initial grazing commences, while larger plants like millet and sorghum hybrids require a height of 20-24 inches.

      Keep in mind the significant investment made in establishing the pasture and provide the baby plant with ample time to recover after grazing. These newly established fields should primarily serve as supplementary grazing areas for other pastures during the first year, allowing the plants to develop and survive. Taking all this into account, you can make some beautiful pastures and fields for your horses to graze and the local field mice to frolic in. Together, we can nurture our pastures and cultivate a thriving agricultural landscape.

      Until next week,

      ~Whinny

      P.S. Are you subscribed to my blog? Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know it’s out! Just scroll down to the big purple box and put your email in, and my blog will arrive in your inbox every Monday, a day before everyone else gets it! As Tony would say, be a good human and scroll down, you can do it!

      Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

      Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

      Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

      More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband