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Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Sep 25, 2023 | Cold weather, Pastures

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! As fall ushers in cooler temperatures and changing pastures, horse owners are met with the promise of crisp, cool air and the joys of fall riding. But as the seasons change, so too should your horse’s diet. Fall is a critical time to ensure your equine companion’s management is optimized for health. Remember, proper nutrition has almost nothing to do with supplements and almost everything to do with the diet we feed—including pasture. Diet is also what most impacts the pillars on which horse health stands: their hooves!

Being a resident of Springhill Equine’s pastures, I can tell you that Florida foliage does not change as much as it would up north (I have cousins living in a barn in Wisconsin). Things stay mostly green here and we don’t often have to worry about frost or *shudder* snow. But, this mouse knows the only constant in life is change, so here are some tips and tricks to managing that change for your horses (with a bonus snack idea at the end!)

Pasture Upkeep

As fall approaches, the quality of your horse’s pasture may change. Grasses tend to mature, becoming less lush and lower in nutritional value. It’s essential to regularly assess the state of your pasture to ensure it can still provide adequate nutrition for your horses. Implementing pasture rotation is an excellent strategy to manage fall grazing. By dividing your total pasture into large sections and rotating your horses between them, you allow the grass in one area to recover while your horses graze in another. This practice helps maintain better pasture quality throughout the season.

If you have other animals such as cattle or goats, you can rotate them through after the horses to help clean up parasites. In cases where your pasture quality decreases significantly, or if you have limited access to pasture, you may need to supplement your horse’s diet with additional forage. High-quality hay is an excellent option and provides the necessary fiber, vitamins, and minerals your horse needs.

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Calorie Management

It’s always essential to monitor your horse’s weight and adjust their diet accordingly. Consult with your veterinarian or equine nutritionist to determine if additional forage or dietary changes are needed. Check the back of the bag of any of your horse feeds for contact information for their nutrition consultants. These awesome humans are a drastically underutilized resource! For some of our beloved ponies that get fat on air, fall can be a time of relaxation for owners as their little gremlins can’t get quite as many calories. But, for the senior thoroughbred, fall may mean an increase in hay or concentrated feeds to keep those ribs covered!

Hydration

As temperatures drop, horses may drink less water. Ensure they have access to clean, fresh water at all times to prevent dehydration. Consider adding a heated water source to prevent water from freezing in colder regions. We all love our fall beverages (PSL anyone?), why don’t you try adding a bit of grain or molasses to one of your horses’ water buckets to encourage them to drink? Some creative humans even offer “water buffets” to their horses—different buckets with different mix-ins: plain, grain, molasses, apple juice, carrot juice, salt, Gatorade, etc. I notice I haven’t been offered a fondue buffet yet…

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Whinny’s Wisdom: Moderation in all things! ANY change to your horse’s diet or management should be made gradually.

 Proper pasture management and hydration are crucial components of fall horse care. By monitoring your pasture, adjusting your horse’s diet as needed, and ensuring they have consistent access to clean, unfrozen water, you can help your equine companions stay healthy and comfortable throughout the autumn season. Regular communication with your veterinarian can provide further guidance tailored to your horse’s specific needs. 

Alright, now that we’ve gotten the blog done, here’s the bonus content I promised–surprise, it’s a recipe blog! You can call me Chef Whinny, now!

Here’s a simple recipe for homemade pumpkin horse treats:

Pumpkin Horse Treats

Ingredients:

– 2 cups of rolled oats

– 1 cup of canned pumpkin puree (make sure it’s pure pumpkin without added sugar or spices)

– 1/4 cup of unsweetened applesauce

– 1/4 cup of molasses

– 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground nutmeg

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger

– 1/2 teaspoon of salt

Instructions:

  1. Preheat the Oven: Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
  1. Mix Dry Ingredients: In a large mixing bowl, combine the rolled oats, ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, ground ginger, and salt. Mix them well to distribute the spices evenly throughout the oats.
  1. Add Wet Ingredients: Add the canned pumpkin puree, unsweetened applesauce, and molasses to the dry ingredients. Mix everything together until you have a sticky dough-like consistency. You can use a wooden spoon or your hands to do this.
  1. Shape the Treats: Take small portions of the dough and roll them into bite-sized balls or shape them into fun cookie-cutter shapes using horse-themed cookie cutters if you have them. Place the treats on the prepared baking sheet, leaving some space between each.
  1. Bake: Bake the treats in the preheated oven for about 15-20 minutes or until they are firm and slightly browned on the edges. Keep an eye on them to prevent overcooking.
  1. Cool: Once baked, remove the treats from the oven and let them cool completely on a wire rack. They will firm up as they cool.
  1. Store: Store the pumpkin horse treats in an airtight container. They can be kept at room temperature for a few days or in the refrigerator for longer shelf life.

These homemade pumpkin horse treats are a delicious and nutritious way to spoil your equine friend during the fall season. Remember to feed them in moderation, as treats should be a supplement to your horse’s regular diet. Enjoy making and sharing these tasty treats with your horse, and make sure to leave some nice crumbles for your friendly clinic mouse!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Did you know the humans here at Springhill Equine have the biggest, most popular equine veterinary podcast in the world? It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. Each episode (and there are over 130 and counting) covers a horse-health topic and is directed at horse owners so they can learn how to take the best care of their horses. You can check it out right over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Establishing New Pastures

Establishing New Pastures

Jul 10, 2023 | Pastures

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

From Seed to Success: Whinny’s Guide to Establishing a Luscious Pasture

Greetings, humans! I, Whinny the Mouse, will be your wise and witty guide to all things agricultural. Today, I am thrilled to delve into the captivating world of pasture planting. Whether you’re transforming land into a vibrant pasture or rejuvenating a field overrun by weeds, these key steps will ensure a flourishing property. So, sit back, nibble on a cheese-flavored crumb, and let’s embark on this enlightening journey together!

Plans for Planting! Oh, the haste that leads to mediocre results! Many a pasture planting endeavor fails due to the lack of a well-thought-out plan. Remember, my eager readers, Rome wasn’t built in a day, and a thriving pasture requires careful planning. Take the time to develop a step-by-step plan that addresses the unique challenges and management requirements of your new pasture. It is also best to think through any potential pitfalls and develop backup and back-backup plans. The local extension agent is your best friend in this scenario.

The first step is deciding what to plant. Visit your local county extension agent and explore the species, varieties, and cultivars readily available. Remember, not all forage species thrive in your region, so consult with your local county extension agent to determine the most successful species and varieties for your specific area. For the Florida readers, bahiagrass may be your best option. It is well adapted to the various soil types in Florida from sandy, drier sites, to damp flatwoods soils. Unfortunately, it will not tolerate extended periods of standing water, and can be slow to establish in deep sands, but no other forage species has as wide a range of adaptability to Florida soils. Bahia grass is also very adapted to short rotational grazing. This grass can be grazed all the way down to 1-2 inches–real mouse height–before only needing to rest for 1-2 weeks before it can be grazed again.

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When it comes to planting, timing plays a crucial role. While February often brings a tempting warmth, young seedlings are vulnerable to frost damage. Mid-March through mid-April or mid-June through July are the recommended planting periods for warm-season forages…sooo right about now! Avoid planting in May and early June when hot, dry conditions prevail. Ideal planting conditions include good soil moisture and regular rainfall for the first few weeks to sustain seedlings until they establish a root system. Remember, if it’s as dry as a bone, postpone planting! Late summer or early fall can also be suitable, but remember that growth is slower during shorter days, and plants need time to store nutrients for winter dormancy after the first frost.

Whether planting seeds or vegetative materials, minimizing weed competition is paramount. Start by ensuring a clean slate, as preemergence herbicides for seeded forage crops are limited. If you’re converting a field with existing grass or grass weeds, consider spraying glyphosate in early fall or spring when those grasses are actively growing. Simply disking the field once or twice before planting won’t eradicate weed issues entirely. Multiple rounds of disking, resting, weed sprouting, and disking again can help reduce the weed population effectively. Additionally, prepare a firm seedbed as fluffy soil dries out quickly and can hamper seedling.

Speaking of seedlings, these little kids are at the most vulnerable phase, so we have to ensure they have access to nutrients. While the seed itself possesses ample stored energy to initiate growth, once the forage emerges and develops its root system, it craves immediate nourishment, particularly nitrogen. While it is common practice to incorporate fertilizer before or during planting, the best approach is to wait until the plants have emerged a few inches tall and possess a functioning root system. By doing so, we ensure that the tiny plants receive the nutrients they need at the right time, enhancing their chances of flourishing. Fertilizer can cause problems for the large animals we want to live on these pastures though, so it’s best practice to check the guidance on the fertilizer bag before use, though most will recommend waiting until at least ½ inch of rain has washed the pasture before putting grazing animals back on it.

For those in my neck of the woods, the UF/IFAS Soil Lab will test your soil samples prior to planting to give insights into your property’s specific requirements. If you are not in Florida, look for your state school’s agricultural extension office and I bet they offer a similar service. If the soil’s pH needs correction, you can get advice on the application of lime or dolomite to best incorporate them into the plant root zone. The soil analysis will also guide you in ordering a customized blend of fertilizer tailored to your specific field, complete with instructions for a split application. Remember, young plants don’t require all the fertilizer at once, and dividing the application minimizes the risk of leaching during heavy rainfall.

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My last whisker of wisdom is this: exercise caution when it comes to grazing. Rushing to graze too soon, particularly with horses that possess top and bottom front teeth, can yield unfavorable outcomes. To determine if it’s the right time, gently pull on the grass plants and observe. If the plant is uprooted or the roots yield under minimal force, grazing should be postponed. As a general guide, most forages should reach a height of 6-12 inches before initial grazing commences, while larger plants like millet and sorghum hybrids require a height of 20-24 inches.

Keep in mind the significant investment made in establishing the pasture and provide the baby plant with ample time to recover after grazing. These newly established fields should primarily serve as supplementary grazing areas for other pastures during the first year, allowing the plants to develop and survive. Taking all this into account, you can make some beautiful pastures and fields for your horses to graze and the local field mice to frolic in. Together, we can nurture our pastures and cultivate a thriving agricultural landscape.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Are you subscribed to my blog? Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know it’s out! Just scroll down to the big purple box and put your email in, and my blog will arrive in your inbox every Monday, a day before everyone else gets it! As Tony would say, be a good human and scroll down, you can do it!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Housing Livestock Species

Housing Livestock Species

May 8, 2023 | Barns, Goats and Sheep, Pastures

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi there, Whinny here! I may be small, but I know a thing or two about living quarters, being nimble enough to explore them and all. If you’re new to horses or livestock you may not know how they want to live. Housing seems like a simple thing, but who lives with who and how much space they have can be really important. In this article, I’ll share some tips and tricks for creating a cozy and comfortable home for your large animals. So grab a piece of cheese and settle in, because we’re about to get started!

General Housing Principles

Large animals like horses, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, alpacas, and pigs (oh my!) need plenty of space to move around and exercise. Make sure your pastures, stalls, or whatever area they live in are large enough to accommodate your animals comfortably. These areas should also be kept clean. It’s fairly obvious that stalls need to be cleaned (Tony says they’re basically just giant litter boxes), but paddocks and pastures often need to be cleaned of excess manure too. Plus, it’s really important to walk your property often looking for stuff that shouldn’t be there like trash, metal scraps, roofing nails, and bailing twine.

Every animal needs access to fresh, clean water at all times. Make sure you’re regularly (daily is ideal) dumping, scrubbing, and refilling buckets and water troughs. Horses and livestock need shelter from the elements, including sun, wind, rain, and snow (I’ve never experienced that last one but I hear it’s extra chilly!). This can be in the form of stalls, run-in sheds, or sometimes really nice tree cover is enough.

Every place is a little different, and the needs of your animals may vary depending on the climate, terrain, and other factors. Our doctors and technicians here are always happy to chat about the best management plan for your individual situation when we’re there seeing your crew. Let’s get into some specifics for the different species now!

Horses

The amount of space required for horses depends on a variety of factors, including the size of the animal, the breed, and the level of activity. In general, horses need enough space to move around, lie down, and access food and water. For horses that are kept in stalls, the recommended stall size is around 12 feet by 12 feet, although larger stalls may be needed for larger horses.

For horses that are kept in pastures, the recommended amount of space is typically around 1-2 acres per horse, but many appreciate more than that. Horses also need access to shelter, such as a barn or run-in shed, to protect them from the elements (and house their mousey friends). It’s very important to keep horses in a clean and well-ventilated environment to prevent the spread of disease. If you’re building a barn, always consider air flow and drainage. My docs made a video about barn design that you’ll enjoy, so I’ll put a link in my P.S. at the end.

Cattle

Most cattle are comfortable living outside most of the time as long as they have shade and protection from the elements. For beef type cattle in a production setting, the recommended amount of space is around 250-500 square feet per animal, depending on the size of the animal. For dairy type cattle on a working farm, the recommended amount of space is around 100-150 square feet per animal. For pet cows, generally 1-2 acres per cow is most comfortable.

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If you are going to house cattle on your property and you expect to get any vet care ever (especially from our team here), it is *required* that you have handling facilities. Cows are really big! I know I’m a mouse, but even compared to you humans they are large and dangerous. While pet cows may allow you to pet them for food or scritches, when our doctors come at them with needles and stethoscopes they often end up at the other side of however many acres they have. The best plan for facilities involves a chute or head catch that are in a location the cattle can be directed into. These facilities can be part of the cows normal life and you can practice pushing them through on days when they aren’t needed so it becomes routine.

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Sheep and Goats

Sheep and goats are great pets! The most ideal situation is for them to have both barn space and pasture space. They can definitely be kept together, but they are handled a bit differently, so it may be easier to keep sheep with sheep and goats with goats. Barn space should allow for at least 20 square feet per animal and pasture space should provide at least 300 square feet of usable space for each animal.

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It’s important to provide a variety of surfaces for sheep and goats. Goats especially absolutely love to climb, so if you can get them a boulder, stump, log, or other elevated surface to play on they will appreciate it. Both sheep and goats benefit from having textured ground such as gravel or roofing tiles in a commonly used area of the pasture to help wear down their feet in between hoof trims. Sheep tend to stay where they are put if they are left alone, but goats are always looking to go on an adventure. They require tall fencing that has only small gaps (no horse horizontal board fencing!) and is well reinforced.  

Whinny Wisdom: If you throw water at a fence and it makes it through, so will a determined goat! 

Camelids

Camelids that are kept as pets generally include llamas and alpacas. Yes, these are different critters! Llamas tend to be larger, have a longer nose, be more independent, and more commonly don’t need no drama. Alpacas are smaller and flightier with a much softer fiber. Camelids as a group technically includes old world camelids such as dromedaries and bactrians, however they should really not be kept as pets, so we won’t talk anymore about them.

Llamas and alpacas have similar space requirements. When they are kept in a barn, they require at least 50-60 square feet per animal. Their pastures should provide around 200-400 square feet per animal. Many times they are kept out all the time, and it’s a good rule to have no more than 5-10 llamas and alpacas per acre of land. If you plan to breed your camelids or will have intact animals, eventually you will need a total of four separate pastures: one for females, one for weanlings, one for young males, and one for adult males.

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Alpacas and llamas really shouldn’t be housed with other animals. You can, but most of the other animals I’ve discussed here have vastly different nutrition requirements to camelids, which would mean they couldn’t be fed together. This isn’t a nutrition article, but remember that all-stock feed is good for no stock you need. The larger large animals like cattle and horses can easily injure camelids which can put a major damper on them living together.

Pigs

Pigs can be popular farm animals and pets, but can present some unique challenges. They are pretty smart, just like your mouse here, and can often be great escape artists. For pigs that are kept in pastures, the recommended amount of space is around 200-300 square feet per animal. Pigs can be kept in a barn for part of the day but absolutely need access to the outdoors for a chunk of the day so they can root in the dirt, roll in the mud, and do other fun piggy things.

Well, that’s all! Thanks for learning about your animals’ house from a mouse! If you have any questions drop a comment or ask one of our veterinarians the next time they’re out seeing your animals. Cheese you next week!

~ Whinny

P.S. Here’s a link to that Barn Design Video I mentioned. My docs have a ton of great video content over on our YouTube Channel, so make sure you check it out!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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