(352) 472-1620 vets@springhillequine.com
Cat Cohabitation

Cat Cohabitation

Sep 16, 2024 | Cats

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hello one and all, and welcome back to another wonderful edition of Whinny’s Wisdoms! One of these days the blog will actually be about mice (the very coolest species), but today, we’re talking about maybe the second coolest: cats. Specifically, cat cohabitation.

This probably won’t surprise you, but 40-70% of cat homes across the world have multiple cats. It’s easy to want to collect them once you see how warm and fuzzy they are. But there can absolutely be issues with welfare and stress if multi-cat homes are not managed properly. You know what I’m squeaking about: fighting, spraying, scratching up the furniture, even medical issues like urinary blockage or diarrhea.

More important than single cat vs multi cat are probably handling and husbandry styles, environmental disruption, socialization history of cats towards humans and other cats, and social stability of cat groups.

Most of you know we have a new Clinic Cat, Wednesday, who has been with us for a few months—I’ve been showing her the ropes—but if you’ve been to the clinic recently you may have also seen a little fluffball kitten who is starting to make his name known. Pugsley is the newest member of Springhill Equine, and is in Clinic Cat Bootcamp at the moment.

Our team has been careful to make the transition to cohabitation a peaceful one for our supurrrvisors, so you could say I’m just the expert you need!

Key Information and Tips

Always have one more litter box than the number of cats, and I’ll clarify that that should mean litter box location. Think about it: there’s still a line for the single bathroom in the stadium whether there’s one stall or ten, but if you have two to three bathrooms on different sides of the stadium then you don’t have to stand in line next to your class rival.

It should go without saying, but there also needs to be at least one food bowl per cat. Cats are big resource guarders as a species (I just try not to be the resource, you know what I mean?) so limiting the places and sources of their food is just asking for argument.

Most cats need and want vertical space in their household. Think about cat “highways” throughout the house—remember the Floor is Lava game? There should also be hiding spots for your kitties, but try to limit possible cornering zones, especially if you have a more forward cat and a more introverted one. This amazing cat wall by Catastrophicreations.com might be an extreme example of creating cat spaces, but you might be able get some ideas from it.

So you’re going to bring a new cat into the home? Well, first impressions are most important, so make sure to plan the introduction and think about potential avenues for trouble. The new cat needs their own space that the current tenants don’t have access to for a bit. Having a safe space of their own not only limits the chance for conflict but also lets them process the new smells and sounds of their home. As they spend time there and you go between their area and the rest of your home, that new smell will be spread around so your old cats “catch wind” of their new friend. You can also do things to swap scents—trading bedding or toys to start, and then eventually even swapping rooms for a spell. This will allow both old and new cats private time to process each other’s presence before meeting… like reading a resume before interviewing someone.

Speaking of smell, I’m sure you’ve heard me talk before about pheromone products. Feliway is the synthetic version of the pheromone cats secrete from their cheeks when they rub all over you and the corners of doorways and walls. That pheromone can only be smelled by them, but basically marks an area as “safe.” Well, they’ve also created a Felway Multicat which works by acting like a mother cat saying “there, there, my angels, get along now.”

CLICK HERE to order Feliway direct from our Amazon Storefront!

Of course, eventually your old and new cats have to meet, unless you plan to keep a whole separate apartment for your new cat, but that’s when questions come up so…

The first time your cats see each other should not be a surprise to either of them, and should always be safe for both. You can do this through a pet gate, sliding glass door, or just the crack of a door. It’s better to have multiple short, safe, uneventful interactions to start. This will build a neutral to positive association before they have prolonged contact with each other.

Once your cats have smelled, heard, and seen each other a few times, it’s time for them to share space. If you have multiple resident cats, it’s often best to introduce them to the new cat on an individual basis. Only allow them to share space if there’s no signs of aggression or fear from either side.

Whinny’s Wisdom: This cat is definitely afraid, and may turn aggressive. The ears are flattened, pupils dilated, and body is tucked with the tail under. Do not proceed with introductions if either cat looks like this!

It can take many months before a new cat fully integrates into a household. There are a lot of factors at play, and some cats may never become friends, but as long as they can coexist peacefully, it’s a win. Don’t ever try to force closeness or cuddles on cats who don’t want it—you’re likely to get claws!

You know your resident cats best; be sure to take their personalities in mind before bringing a new cat or kitten into the home. While I get to see all kinds in my role as Official Clinic Mouse for Springhill Equine and Companion Animal Clinic, most pets spend 99% of their time in their home with only the creatures that live there. New introductions can be scary or intimidating, and responses aren’t always predictable.

As always, if you have questions about bringing a new cat into your home, or about improving the mingling of your current crew, talk to our team of certified Cat People and we can give you some tips! And Dr. Speziok is always happy to see your pets for behavior consults, just call to schedule.

Stay Friendly,

Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t poked around my website in a while, you might want to take a minute to check it out! There are a ton of resources on here besides my amazing blog. We have books, a huge video library, a podcast, links to social media, upcoming events, and more!

 

 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Tackling Anhidrosis in Nonsweaters

Aug 26, 2024 | Anhidrosis, Sweating/ Not sweating

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello one and all, welcome back to another thrilling set of wisdoms by yours truly! Mice suffer from heat stress at temperatures above 85F so you could say I’ve been in a constant state of stress for the last few months. I don’t sweat naturally, but I can’t imagine not being able to pant to dissipate my heat. Our equine friends rely on sweating to cool themselves off, but sometimes they seem to lose that ability, and that is nothing but stress to the horses, their owners, and their doctors!

Normal horses can and do produce twice as much sweat per square inch of skin than you humans, and that can equate to 5-8 GALLONS of sweat per day in very hot weather or with moderate exercise. Have you noticed that your horse’s sweat often looks white and frothy? They have unique apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids, causing that “lathered up” look. As the water in sweat evaporates, it cools the horse down by transferring heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5°F – about the same as mine! That temperature goes up during exercise but sweat helps it return to normal quickly.

 Whinny’s Wisdom: 70% of a horse’s heat regulation is through sweating.

Horses that can’t sweat fully have a very hard time cooling off. This difficulty sweating is called anhidrosis–a term as old as time, or at least as old as the 1700’s, according to the Oxford English Dictionary. Horses with anhidrosis might sweat less than normal, only in patches, or not at all. They tend to breathe harder and faster than a normal horse both at rest and during exercise.

 The truth is, as smart as veterinarians are (and mine are the best!), they don’t completely understand why some horses stop sweating. Most of the research is being done by really smart people right here in Gainesville at the University of Florida. That’s because horses that live in the very hottest places seem most likely to be affected. The possible explanations include overstimulation of the sweat glands, problems in the signaling pathway, or decreased numbers and sensitivity of receptors. For a fun in the sun Florida double whammy, high humidity makes what sweating that does happen less effective because of the lack of evaporation. As my paws fly across this keyboard, the humidity outside is a whopping 92%!!

Anhidrosis can be an insidious change in a horse that has lived in Florida their whole lives, or it can be a sudden shift for a horse that has just moved here or is traveling to the sunshine state to compete or retire. 

 So, if your horse is the only one at the barn not sweating buckets in this Florida heat, pay attention! Here are some things to watch out for:

– Dry, clean coat after work or when coming in from daytime turnout

– Fast or labored breathing, especially when not working

– Flared nostrils

– Low energy or fatigue

– Slow cooling down after exercise

– Increased body temperature (especially serious if over 104°F)

– Seeking and staying in the shade, even if food is elsewhere

– Reduced eating or drinking

– Chronic cases: dry, itchy, or flaky skin, sometimes with hair loss

 Whinny’s Wisdom: If you own horses, you absolutely must have a reliable thermometer to take their temperature. And you should practice with your horse so they are used to the process. It’s often the first thing you’ll be asked on the phone when you call about a sick horse.

If your horse is a non-sweater, what can you do? I can recommend some lovely lemming hotels in the arctic, but you may not be inclined to up and move just yet. Here are some other strategies.

 Electrolyte Supplements

 These can support normal sweating and overall health, especially in summer. One AC and Platinum Refresh are popular options. They provide essential electrolytes, amino acids, and vitamins. While the exact mechanism by which these supplements aid anhidrosis is not fully understood, their components are known to support bodily functions related to sweating. The success of these supplements can vary from horse to horse, likely due to individual differences in physiology and the underlying causes of anhidrosis.

 Chinese Herbal Therapy and Acupuncture

 At Springhill Equine, we’ve found these methods can be quite successful in some cases. Some of our docs’ very best summer success sweating stories have come from acupuncture patients of Dr. Carter and Dr. Yorke! We all need a little push to get to work sometimes, and it seems those equine sweat glands respond to a bit of needling!

 Cooling Barns and Stalls

 Keeping your barn and stalls cool is key. Use fans to circulate air and create a breeze. Ceiling fans, box fans (outdoor rated, of course!), and industrial fans all help. Misters or fogging systems can reduce heat through evaporation. Make sure the barn is well-ventilated by opening doors and windows. Using reflective or light-colored roofing materials can deflect sunlight and reduce heat absorption.

 Providing Shade in Pastures

 Provide ample shade in pastures. Trees offer natural shade, but if you don’t have enough, install shade structures or shelters. These can be pole barns, run-in sheds, or tarps stretched between posts. Ensure the shade is large enough for multiple horses to use without crowding, and place water sources nearby to encourage hydration.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 Emergency Cooling Measures

 It’s better to prevent overheating, but if it happens, here are some steps to follow:

– Move your horse to the shade.

– Hose them down with cool water or sponge them with ice water.

– Use portable fans.

– Offer cold water to drink.

– Take their temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate.

– Call the vet!

 Remember, you may not suffer from anhidrosis yourself, but you need to keep cool too! Drink water, wear sunscreen, stay in the shade, and take lots of breaks when you’re at the barn with your horses this summer. There’s a good human.

Until next week,

 Whinny

 P.S. Do you want to learn more about horses? Check out the podcast my humans produce! It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth and you can check it out right here on my website, or by subscribing on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Core and Lifestyle Vaccines for Dogs and Cats

Aug 19, 2024 | Cats, Dogs, Vaccines

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

Hello again, wonderful pet parents! It’s Whinny here, your friendly clinic mouse, back with more squeaky wisdom. We’re talking today about vaccines, the tiny but mighty protectors that can make all the difference in your pet’s life. We’ll dive into the essentials first, then add a little extra cheddar to the mix with lifestyle vaccines! These vaccines are just as important, especially if your pets like to socialize or explore the great outdoors. Let’s dive in, starting with how we protect the pooches.

Companion Animal Clinic at Springhill Equine

Dogs

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Let’s start with the big one—rabies. This vaccine is a non-negotiable for your dog’s health and safety. Rabies is a deadly virus that can affect all mammals (yep, even me!), and once symptoms appear, there’s no cure. The good news? A simple rabies vaccine protects your dog—and helps protect the people and other pets around them too. This is why rabies vaccination is legally required in most areas.

Distemper/Parvo Combo (DHPP): 

Now, let’s talk about the distemper/parvo combo, often bundled together with a few other important vaccines. Distemper is a highly contagious viral disease that can cause serious respiratory, gastrointestinal, and neurological problems. Parvo, on the other paw, is a nasty virus that affects the intestines and can be deadly, especially for puppies. This combo vaccine also protects against adenovirus (which can lead to hepatitis) and parainfluenza (a respiratory virus). It’s like giving your dog a superhero cape, helping them fight off multiple villains with one shot!

Now, let’s talk lifestyle vaccines—these are key for dogs who like to sniff, play, and explore the world around them.

Bordetella (Kennel Cough):

Does your dog like to meet new friends, visit dog parks, or stay at kennels? If so, Bordetella is a must. This vaccine protects against kennel cough, a highly contagious respiratory infection that spreads like gossip at a cheese party. It’s a mucosal vaccine, meaning it goes right into the nose or mouth, where it can work its magic. And just like your dog’s social calendar, it needs to be updated yearly.

Canine Influenza:

For pups who mingle with other dogs, canine influenza is another important vaccine. This flu can spread quickly in places like doggy daycares or boarding facilities, causing a serious cough, fever, and fatigue. If your dog is a regular at these spots, this yearly vaccine will help keep them safe and sound.

Leptospirosis: 

Now, here’s one that’s especially important for our outdoor adventurers. Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that’s common in our area and can be spread through contaminated water or soil—yikes! If your dog loves romping around in parks, on properties, or near water, this vaccine is a must. It helps protect them from this potentially serious disease.

Lyme Disease:

Lyme disease is spread by ticks and is more common in certain areas. While it’s not a big concern in the Southeast, if your dog is a frequent traveler, especially to northern regions, this vaccine could be a lifesaver. It’s all about being prepared, just in case your pup decides to take a road trip.

Cats

Core Vaccines

Rabies:

Just like our canine companions, cats need protection from rabies too. Whether your feline friend is a homebody or a neighborhood explorer, rabies vaccination is essential. It’s a life-saving vaccine that ensures your kitty stays safe and that you’re complying with local laws.

FVRCP Combo:

Now, for the feline trio of protection—the FVRCP combo. This vaccine covers three big threats to cats: Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (fancy term for feline herpesvirus), Calicivirus, and Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper). Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus cause upper respiratory issues, which can make your cat feel really crummy, while Panleukopenia is a serious virus that affects the blood cells and can be deadly. The FVRCP combo is like the feline version of a super-suit, keeping them safe from these dangerous diseases.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

And now, onto the lifestyle vaccine for our fabulous felines.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV): 

This is the one to consider if your cat loves to explore the outdoors or hang out with other cats. Feline leukemia is a virus that can weaken a cat’s immune system and lead to serious health issues. Every kitten should start with a series of FeLV vaccines to build their initial immunity. After that, if your cat is indoor/outdoor or has contact with cats who are FeLV positive, they’ll need this vaccine yearly to stay protected.

Why Vaccines (and Vets) Matter 🩺

Remember, it’s not just about getting vaccines; it’s about making sure they’re the right ones for your pet’s lifestyle. That’s where your veterinarian comes in! When you bring your furry friend in—or have my docs out for a home visit!—for their vaccines, they’re also getting a full health check-up. We will get down to brass tacks…err, borzoi tabbies…to help you decide which vaccines are necessary based on your pet’s activities and risks, keeping them safe and sound. And, we’ll plan that schedule based on your pet’s age—puppies and kittens have a bit of extra work to do to ramp up their initial protection! There’s a schedule and we must stick to it! So, we’ll see your new addition often for the first few months to ensure we prime their immune system the right way. These frequent visits are also the very best way to monitor growth, discuss training and milestones, and ensure your pets are kept on the right size and type of prevention as they grow.  

The Annual Exam: A Must-Do!

Vaccines are vital, but so is that all-important annual exam. This is when your vet gets to give your pet a thorough once-over, catching any issues early and ensuring they’re in tip-top shape. It’s like a yearly spa day—but with fewer bubbles and more belly rubs!

Remember: we’re all about keeping your pets safe, healthy, and ready for all their adventures—whether that’s a romp in the park, a snuggle on the couch, or a dash through the fields.

Until next time, keep those tails wagging and whiskers twitching!

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your canine and feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline, or your herd of rambunctuous dogs. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Orphaned Kitten Care

Orphaned Kitten Care

Aug 12, 2024 | Kittens

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

From Squeaks to Shrieks: A Clinic Mouse’s Guide to Kitten Season

Hey everybody, Whinny the Clinic Mouse here! Spring came and went, as it does, and brought with it the annual phenomenon known as “kitten season.” During this time, feline fertility peaks, leading to a surge in the number of cat mothers giving birth. While this can be heartwarming, it can also be heartbreaking when there are orphan kittens in need of care. Animal shelters are often overflowing at this time of year as well, which means there isn’t always a place for these pip-squeaks to go. Kittens are made cute, so they can get people to do what they want and take them in (mice are way cuter in my humble opinion, but you don’t see people busting down doors to take us into their homes). Anyway…

Mother cats are typically incredibly dedicated caregivers, and if you find a healthy, well-fed group of kittens nestled together somewhere, they are probably under the jurisdiction of an adult cat, and take it from me, you don’t want to mess with them! However, if the kittens are alone, crying, appear malnourished, or injured, then they may be orphaned and will need your intervention.

If you know of a shelter or kitten rescue group with availability, definitely bring any sickly kittens there, but if that’s not an option, let me lead you down the whisker-trail of taking care of orphaned kittens.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Delicate Art of Orphaned Kitten Care

Caring for orphaned kittens is a significant commitment that requires knowledge, patience, and a good deal of love. Their needs will vary depending on their age, but some general principles apply.

Warmth is Crucial: Newborn kittens are unable to regulate their body temperature and rely on their mother’s warmth for survival. If you’ve taken in orphaned kittens, you must create a cozy nest box lined with soft towels and provide external heat. You can use a heating pad set on low (covered with a towel) to maintain a temperature around 99 degrees Fahrenheit. This mimics the warmth they would receive from their mother. There is also a product called Snuggle Safe that heats up in the microwave and stays warm for a few hours without the risk of electrical issues. There should be an area of the box that does not have a heating element under it so the kittens can move away from it if they need to.

Feeding Time: Orphaned kittens require frequent feedings with a kitten-specific formula. Kittens younger than 1 week need food about every 2-3 hours. They are not able to sustain themselves overnight. It’s very important to mix the formula exactly as the product directs, and to warm it to body temperature prior to feeding. You can test it on the inside of your paw—whoops, I mean wrist—to check that it’s not too warm. Never feed kittens on their back, they should be on their stomach and should be actively swallowing.

Whinny Wisdom: Squeezing or syringing milk into their mouth is not ok! You’re more likely to cause them to inhale it. 

Elimination Stimulation: Unlike older kittens, newborns cannot eliminate waste on their own. The mother cat would typically lick their genitals to stimulate urination and defecation. You can mimic this process by gently rubbing the kitten’s genital area with a warm, damp cotton ball, piece of gauze, or washcloth after each feeding. Continue until elimination occurs. Don’t skip this step, and if you’re too squeamish for it, well, that’s when you’d call my docs or other professionals, because to raise kittens, you have to be able to handle the gross and the cute!

Companion Animal Care at Springhill Equine

A Gradual Transition

As the kittens mature, their needs will evolve. Here’s a breakdown of care by age group:

  • Newborn to 4 Weeks Old: These fragile kittens require constant care, including bottle-feeding every few hours, warmth regulation, and elimination stimulation. Their eyes may be closed or partially open, and they won’t be able to walk or play.
  • 4 to 8 Weeks Old: Kittens in this age group can start lapping formula from a shallow dish. You can introduce moistened kitten food at this stage, but bottle-feeding may still be necessary to ensure they get enough calories. Their eyes will be open, and they’ll begin to explore their surroundings.
  • 8 to 12 Weeks Old: By this age, kittens can typically be weaned off formula and eat moistened kitten food. However, monitor their weight gain and continue bottle-feeding if needed. These playful kittens will be more active and can begin litter box training.

Beyond the Basics

While providing warmth, food, and elimination assistance are crucial, orphaned kittens also require socialization and enrichment. Handle them gently and regularly to get them accustomed to human contact. Provide them with safe toys to play with and stimulate their natural instincts. If you have a single orphan kitten, you’ll need to teach them to play safely and learn to be independent as they age. Bottle babies are notorious for becoming spoiled rotten adult cats. They may be small, but their meows pack a punch! Honestly, the decibel level rivals a rock concert sometimes. Guess I need to invest in some earplugs…or maybe some cheese…for this kitten season. Did I mention that we have a bottle baby kitten here at the Clinic? Wednesday is not thrilled about it. Anyway.

Remember, Prevention is Key

The overwhelming number of orphaned kittens during kitten season should remind you of the importance of spaying and neutering your cats. This routine surgery is the single most effective way to prevent unwanted litters and their associated challenges. Spaying and neutering also has numerous health benefits for your feline companions.

The Rewarding Journey of Kitten Care

Helping orphaned kittens is a demanding yet incredibly rewarding experience. By providing them with the necessary care and love, you’ll be giving them a fighting chance at a happy and healthy life. Remember, even small actions can make a big difference for these vulnerable creatures. So, this kitten season, consider opening your heart and maybe even your home to a furry little orphan in need. Remember, your veterinarian is your best partner for helping all animals, but especially the tiniest of the bunch! Another resource our clinic recommends all the time to foster kitten parents is this website:

www.kittenlady.org

There, you will find lots of helpful diagrams, pictures, and videos for raising kittens!

Whinny Wisdom: Keep an eye out for “kitten season” awareness campaigns and fundraising efforts in your area. These initiatives are crucial in supporting shelters and rescue organizations that care for orphaned kittens. Consider volunteering your time or making a donation to contribute to their lifesaving work.

Well, that’s it for this week. Now that Pugsly, our new kitten here at the Clinic, is learning to eat dry food, I’m going to see if I can sneak a bite.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you haven’t brought your feline friends in to meet Dr. Speziok yet, or had her come to your house to meet them, you are missing out! Yes, you read that right, your favorite cat vet makes house calls! That takes most of the stress out of things for your less-socially inclined feline. Call our office today to schedule your visit! 352-472-1620.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Body Condition Score in Horses

Body Condition Score in Horses

Jul 29, 2024 | Body Condition Score

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here! I recently wrote a blog on how to estimate your horse’s weight using a tape measure and an easy calculation. Well today I’m adding on to that with a related topic, body condition scoring! Getting an estimate of the actual weight is great, since you can monitor the trends of weight gain or loss and be more accurate in dosing of medications such as dewormers. But how do you know if that weight is healthy and correct for him? My docs use a visual scoring system called the body condition score.

The body condition score (BCS) allows you to assess whether your horse is too thin, too fat, or just right. The BCS ranges from 1 to 9, with 1 being extremely thin and 9 being extremely fat. Your horse can develop health problems if he is too far in either direction! The scores in the middle – 4, 5, and 6 – are the moderate weights and the healthiest place for your horse to be.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

To score your horse, all you need are your eyes and your hands. You’re going to look at and feel six areas where horses store fat – his neck, withers, back, tail head, ribs, and behind the shoulder. Most of these terms are pretty obvious but a couple new terms for you may be the spinous processes (the part of back vertebrae that projects upwards to form the bumps on the top of his spine) and the transverse processes (the part of the vertebrae that projects out to the side). You will see these areas best on a horse that is too thin.  Here are the descriptions and examples of horses in various body conditions.

Body condition score 1

  • This horse is emaciated and in critical condition. No fat can be felt. His ribs, tailhead, hips, pelvic bones, and the bones of his spine (spinous processes and transverse processes) are prominent. The bones of his withers, shoulders and neck are easily noticed. 

Body condition score 2

  • An extremely thin horse. There is a very small amount of fat covering the base of the spinous processes. The transverse processes of the lower back can be felt but are slightly rounded. The spinous processes, ribs, tailhead, hip joints, and pelvic bones are prominent. The withers, shoulders and neck structure are faintly discernable.

Body condition score 3

  • A thin horse without enough body fat to be healthy. There is fat buildup about halfway up the spinous processes but they are easily discernable. The transverse processes can’t be felt. Slight fat covers the ribs but you can still easily see them. The tailhead is prominent but individual vertebrae can’t be seen. The hip joints appear rounded but are easily discernable. The pelvic bones are not distinguishable. The withers, shoulders and neck are thin. 

Body condition score 4

  • A mildly thin horse. Sometimes a very fit athlete like a racehorse or endurance horse can be a BCS of 4. He is lean but in good condition. There is a slight ridge along the back and the faint outline of ribs are discernable. The tailhead prominence depends on the horse’s conformation, but fat can be felt around it. The hip joints not discernable. The withers, shoulders and neck are not obviously thin.

Body condition score 5

  • For most horses this is the ideal body condition. The back is level, without either a ridge of backbone or a crease down the back. The ribs can be felt if you lightly press the horse’s sides but can’t be seen. The fat around the tailhead feels a bit spongy. The withers are round over the spinous processes. The shoulders and neck blend smoothly into the body.

Body condition score 6

  • This is a mildly overweight or fleshy horse. Broodmares have an improved chance of getting pregnant at a BCS of 6. There may be a slight crease down the center of the back. The fat over the ribs and tailhead feels spongy and soft. There are small fat deposits behind the shoulders and along the sides of neck and withers.

Body condition score 7

  • This is an overweight horse. There may be a moderate crease down the back. There is more fat covering the ribs, tailhead, neck, and shoulders. Individual ribs can be felt if you press a bit, but there is noticeable filling between the ribs with fat. The fat around the tailhead is soft. There is fat deposited along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. This horse’s weight is concerning for causing negative health effects.

Body condition score 8

  • This is a very overweight horse and is well into the danger zone for laminitis. There is a crease (aka the rain gutter!) down the back and it is difficult to feel the ribs. The fat around the tailhead is very soft. The areas along the withers and behind the shoulder are filled with fat. There is noticeable thickening of the neck. There is fat deposited along the inner thighs.

Body condition score 9

  • This is an extremely overweight, or obese horse. There is an obvious crease down back. Patches of fat appear over the ribs. There is bulging fat around the tailhead, along the withers, behind the shoulders and along the neck. The flank is filled with fat.

Be sure to ask my docs about your horse’s body condition score when you next see them for wellness exams!

Until next week!

~Whinny

P.S. Wanna learn more about body condition score? Check out this video my humans made! They will guide you through the process of assessing your horse, step by step! 

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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