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Banamine in the Muscle

Banamine in the Muscle

Apr 15, 2019 | Banamine

Tuesdays with Tony

Over on the Faceplace this week, my humans posted a picture of a horse with what’s called Clostridial Myonecrosis (CM). It got A LOT of attention, so I felt it only right to research this syndrome further, and drop some of my amazing feline knowledge on you guys. Like anything with horses, there’s a lot of opinions surrounding clostridial myonecrosis. I’m going to stick to the facts.

 

Banamine causes this

 

We’ll call this a sort-of fact. The truth is, any shot given in the muscle can cause this to happen. The reason any intramuscular shot can cause CM is because it’s secondary to muscle damage, and any shot in the muscle causes some degree of muscle damage. It’s often a very small amount of muscle damage, but it’s still an injury. You see, when that damage happens, it sets up the perfect growth environment for a group of bacteria called Clostridia. This bacteria likes to grow where there is no air.

But how did this bacteria get there, you ask? The obvious answer: on the needle. The wrong answer: on the needle. We all carry spores of Clostridia in our muscles! It’s part of living on planet earth. These bacteria create little tiny spores that are really, really hard to kill. We (humans, cats, horses, dogs, parakeets, you name it) likely eat these spores on food. They enter our bodies through our GI tract, and then hang out in muscles waiting for the right conditions to come along.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Ever heard of gangrene?

 

That’s the less fancy, not-a-doctor, name for CM. It’s one bad dude! Gangrene had a 45% mortality rate in the American Civil War!!! By World War I, mortality was down to 10-12%. By World War 2, mortality rates were approaching 1%, and by Vietnam they had dropped even further to 0.01%. Why all this talk of war? This has been the big area for CM in humans. Those bullets, and swords, and all the other uncivilized things humans do during war, cause a ton of damage to muscles. Wars are also generally fought in less than sterile environments. What the medical community learned from these cases was the importance of air.

 

Fresh air as a cure

 

Overall, this is a family of bacteria you don’t want to mess with. The Clostridia family are also responsible for such winners as botulism and tetanus. Notice a theme? Botulism is famous for happening in improperly canned or stored canned food (no air), and tetanus happens after a deep, penetrating wound (no air). CM happens deep in the muscle where there’s no air. This is why in the pictures on the Faceplace (and below) you see big, deep cuts into the horse’s muscles. It’s all about getting air in there. The tubing you see tied in a knot is to keep the cuts open so air can continue to get deep into the muscles. Every day, sometimes even two to three times per day, doctors managing these cases look for new areas of CM. These new areas are opened up with new cuts into the tissue. I’m not going to lie: these are tough cases for the patients and the doctors. No veterinarian wants to cause an animal pain, but in these horses, it’s the only way they will survive. Antibiotics and aggressive pain control are also used to help these horses survive.

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Ok, Ok, but how do I keep it from happening?

 

“Tony,” you say “all this is great, but how do I keep it from happening to my horse? That’s the knowledge I really want from your divine catness!” Maybe you wouldn’t add that last part, but you should. The bad news is you can’t 100% prevent CM from happening. The good news: 1) You can come pretty close, and 2) CM is pretty rare in horses. Horses get certain shots in the muscle all the time. Vaccines, for example, go in the muscle. Vaccines contain a very small amount of antibiotic to help combat CM before it can get started. Going to add yet another reason to get vaccines performed by your veterinarian: if this happens following a vaccine by a veterinarian, the vaccine company will cover the costs of treatment. Valley Vet definitely won’t do that. Other common shots given in the muscle are joint support treatments like Adequan. Again, these can cause CM, but are generally only mildly irritating to muscles which means they are way, way, way less likely to cause CM.

The very best way to prevent CM is to never, never, ever give anything in the muscle without checking with your veterinarian first. Banamine is a common culprit because it can be very irritating to muscles, but it isn’t the only one. Be 1,000% sure it’s OK to put the shot you are about to put in the muscle, in the muscle. Oh, and make sure your horse is clean before you do give that shot. I’m not saying they have to be ready for The All American Congress halter classes, but be sure your needle doesn’t have to go through a ½” of mud to get to the skin.

Those pictures are scary, even to this tough cat! However, an ounce of prevention goes a long way, and a conversation with your veterinarian about what medications your horses is getting goes even farther!

Now be a good human, and subscribe to my blog. You’ll get it a full day before anyone else. That’s right: Tony, a day early. Happy Monday!

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. Are you thirsting for more horse knowledge? You should browse through my previous blogs. Or, if you like listening better than reading, you should check out the podcast my docs put out. It’s up top in the menu bar, where it says ‘Podcast.” Or just click here. It will rock your world.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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First Aid for Horses

First Aid for Horses

Apr 8, 2019 | First Aid

Tuesdays with Tony

It’s that time of the month again, it’s time for you all to come out and meet me, Tony! This month my seminar is all about ME! Well that, and first aid for your horse. Come out on Thursday at 6:30pm for a meet and greet with yours truly as well as a talk from my docs on first aid.

Whether you’ve owned horses for a long time or you are a new horse owner, you are probably well aware that horses try to find a way to hurt themselves on a daily basis. That is why it is a good idea to have a first aid kit prepared and ready to go at all times and in all situations. I have seen my fair share of horsey emergencies here and have a developed an all-inclusive list of supplies for you to make your own first aid kit.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Phone Numbers

The most important part of your first aid kit will be a card with my clinic phone number and emergency number on it. Remember, if you ever have any kind of emergency your best bet is to call me at the clinic so I can get ahold of my docs for you and they can further direct you on what to do. I am available 24/7/365 and will track down one of the doctors for you so no need to worry about that.

The Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic number is (352) 472-1620

The Springhill Equine After-hours Emergency number is (352) 474- 5007

 

NSAIDs

I know by now, you all have read my blog about bute, banamine, and previcox/equioxx. And if you haven’t yet, shame on you, you owe me extra pets on Thursday at the seminar. After you finish this blog, come back up and click on the link to read that one.

Nonetheless, having at least one type of NSAID as a part of your first aid kit is always a good idea. I personally recommend keeping a tube of bute or banamine paste on hand. I find the paste form of these medications are much easier and safer to administer than the injectable or powder forms. I am sure you humans with your opposable thumbs find administering medications orally significantly easier than I do. NSAIDs are multi-purpose and can be used in several different emergency situations. Always ask my docs for instructions before giving your horse any NSAID or other medication.

 

Bandage Material

Over the years, I’ve heard numerous stories around the clinic about how, if there is something for a horse to cut itself on, they will find it. No sharp corner goes untouched by a horse’s limb, eye, or nostril. No stray nail goes unturned by a hoof, and no wire stays nicely laying on the ground out of your horse’s way. In a lifetime of horse ownership, you will undoubtedly see a lacerated limb, an eyelid or nostril laceration, and a hoof abscess or two. Until my docs can get to you and fully assess the extent of injury, cleaning a wound with an antiseptic cleaner such as dilute iodine solution or chlorhexidine solution and applying a bandage to the wound to keep it clean and help control bleeding is never a bad idea.

Your bandage material should consist of gentle anti-biotic ointment such as silver sulfadiazine, non-stick telfa pads, combi roll or clean standing bandages, cling wrap, vet wrap, adhesive bandage such as elasticon, and of course the fix-all of all fixing things, duct tape. Baby diapers or large sanitary napkins can serve as an excellent hoof bandage for abscesses along with epsom salts or animalintex poltice. Here’s a link to a fantastic video by my docs on how to wrap a foot.

 

Equipment

One can never have too many hoof picks. When you need one, you can never find one and when you don’t need one you have five extra. Designate one to your first aid kit so you’re never without it in a time of need.

Cats have excellent eyesight, even at night. You humans, however, seem to stumble around in the dark. Since horses like to get injured at the most inconvenient times, it is likely it will be very dark when you find them. A flashlight or headlight will be an excellent addition to your first aid kit. That way you’ll be better able to assess the situation your horse has found himself in.

Latex gloves will protect you and your horse from further contamination of wounds and allow you to cleanly apply topical antibiotic ointment. Clean, sharp scissors are useful for cutting bandage material, but remember, I definitely do not recommend cutting any skin or foreign material that may be lodged or caught in your horse’s body or wounds. Leave that to the experts and call my docs! (See the section on Phone Numbers back at the beginning)

The last 2 pieces of equipment you should have in your first aid kit include a stethoscope and a thermometer. Now, you don’t have to buy one of those fancy-schmancy stethoscopes you see the docs use, a simple, inexpensive one can be purchased from Amazon. I know this because, I often place orders for catnip and cat toys on Amazon overnight when my staff forgets to turn the computers off and leaves the keyboard out for my ordering pleasure. While placing your order on Amazon, go ahead and add a quick 8 second thermometer to your cart.

The next time my docs are at your farm have them teach you to listen to your horse’s heart and take a heart rate as well as where to best listen for gastrointestinal sounds. They can also show you how to safely take your horse’s temperature. This way, if your horse is showing signs of distress or illness, you can give my docs even more information about what is going on with your horse when you call them.

 

Ointments

Along with your silver sulfadiazine ointment, there are several other ointments you should consider placing in your first aid kit. I find Vaseline or petroleum jelly useful for the tip of the thermometer to safely take your horse’s temperature. You can also mix it with cayenne pepper and place it on bandages if your horse tries to use his teeth to take his bandages off.

Eyes are always considered an emergency. Triple antibiotic ophthalmic ointment without steroids is safe to have on hand and can be used on lacerations near the eyes as well as in the eye if my docs direct you to apply it prior to their arrival.

Diaper rash cream can be applied to minor abrasions and to areas you want to keep free from moisture. It can also be mixed with silver sulfadiazine ointment to make an excellent concoction for treating and keeping wounds dry.

Finally, a wound ointment such as SWAT will help to keep flies and gnats away from wounds and provide a barrier to keep debris from entering the wound.

 

If you want to learn more about first aid and the dos and don’ts of first aid, remember to come see me this Thursday at 6:30 for free “cat-scans” by yours truly, Tony loving, pizza, and of course, giveaways! If you have a really, really good excuse and can’t come, you can always watch it live on Facebook. If you forgot to take notes and need to go back and see it again, you can find it on my YouTube channel any time after the seminar.

 

Until next time,

 

~ Tony

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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The War on Flies

The War on Flies

Apr 1, 2019 | Flies

Tuesdays with Tony

I love Florida Spring. The weather this past week has been absolute perfection for sunbathing in the middle of the driveway at the Clinic. I love seeing how many people I can get to drive around me by laying right in the middle. It’s a good time. Unfortunately this weather has been good for something else: flies. Now I enjoy a few flies around. They are so fun to chase, especially when they get inside, and I can run around, over, and through all the hard work my minions are doing. If I get papers to go flying it’s even better. A few flies is fun. A bunch of flies is awful, and since I live in a barn, flies can be a problem.

 

Luckily, I found this handy guide to flies: Full Paper. I’m going to give you the wise cat summary version here, but I highly recommend you go read the entire document! It’s full of great information about managing flies. Now is the time (in Florida anyway) to get busy managing your environment for flies. For my adoring fans in areas that are still cold, one day it will stop snowing, and this will be useful information.

 

Whatcha got there?

 

You have to start by knowing your flies. Different flies want different things in life. This means you can’t catch stable flies with the same traps you would use for house flies. Heck, you might not even have house flies. Setting out several kinds of traps, and putting them in different areas will help you see what you’ve got.

 

You can also spend some quality time watching your flies (and your horses) to help determine fly species buzzing around. For example, house flies like to hang out with their bodies parallel to a surface, while stable flies like to set their little fly butts down. Really learning what kind of flies you have, and watching to see which kind annoy your horses most will help you pick the right ways to kill the most flies possible. I love helping my minions observe flies. It is a great time to insist on chin scratches.

 

Hit ‘em where it hurts

 

We’re going to learn a lot about flies today. We’ve already learned that house and stable flies hang out in different locations. Now we’re going to learn about fly life cycles. Knowing how flies raise fly families helps you get rid of happy fly breeding grounds. Flies go through four stages: adult, eggs, larvae, and pupae. This gives you four separate life stages to go after! Adults are best targeted with traps (but remember you need the right trap for the kind of fly you have!).

 Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Eggs can be difficult to target, but heat is your friend here. For larvae (ie, maggots, and who doesn’t think they’re just gross), getting rid of the environment is key. Larvae can be found in damp, protected areas. At a horse farm, the absolute prime baby fly location is in those horrendous mats of hay found around hay feeders. Other great baby rearing locales are under stall mats, especially under the water buckets, and anywhere horse manure piles up. There is a cool product called sodium bisulfate (sold as Poultry Litter Treatment) you can add to stalls, or edges of manure piles. This stuff changes the pH enough to kill the larvae without changing it so much that it’s bad for the rest of us.

 

Pupae can get eaten by a cool bug called a Fly Predator! These are tiny wasps that live to eat fly pupae. They can be ordered from companies like Spalding Fly Predators (https://www.spalding-labs.com). The key to fly predators is to put them out about every two weeks in the height of the season, and start them early.

 

Control what’s left

 

Ok you’ve identified your flies, the areas they hang out, you’ve got your traps, cleaned up the wet, matted hay, and put out Fly Predators. Now what? First, you will notice you have a lot fewer flies to even worry about. You may find you have few enough that you and your horse are happy, but if not, never fear: there’s fly spray. Ever felt like no fly spray works? Here’s a few fly spray tips:

  1. None of them last for very long. Apply them right before you really, really, need them.
  2. Be sure your ENTIRE horse is covered with fly spray. Best way to do this is to wipe them down. Pro tip: a sunless tanning mousse application mitt works great for this.
  3. EcoVet. It has a funny smell, but actually works. In testing done by Dr. Machtinger (who I stole all the information in this week’s blog from), EcoVet was the only fly spray that worked.

 Remember, this is the short version of flies and horses. For even more on flies, go here: Full Paper.

 Now be a good human and subscribe to my blog. You won’t regret it, and you’ll get a super special email from me once weekly.

If you’d like to hear a podcast that my team did with Dr. Machtinger about flies, click here: Flies Podcast It’s loaded with information, and takes about a half hour to listen to. You’re welcome!

Until next week,

~Tony

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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The Choking Horse

The Choking Horse

Mar 25, 2019 | Choking

Tuesdays with Tony

You’re walking through the barn doing one last check of all the horses after their evening feed when you notice one horse has stepped away from his feed bucket. You inspect the feed and notice that some feed has been consumed but the majority is remaining. Upon further observation you realize your horse is not showing signs of colic, but he is holding his head down with his neck stretched out and makes the occasional gag-like sound.  Then you see it, the feed and saliva material coming out of your horse’s nose and you know that you are dealing with a choke.

Most of the time, when my docs are called out to the farm for a choke, they are able to easily resolve the choke, or it has already resolved on its own when they get there. On rare occasion, the docs have enlisted my help here at the clinic when a choke cannot be resolved easily on the farm, so sit back, relax and let the master explain it all.

What is a choke?

Unlike cats (and people), in horses, choke refers to something that is obstructing the esophagus and thus does not block the horse’s airway. Choke is most commonly caused by feed material; however, foreign material cannot be ruled out as a potential cause. Cats, being the more intelligent life form, know better than to eat something that isn’t food, unless its string of course, then all bets are off, string is the best toy EVER!

What are the signs of choke?

I am a stickler for good hygiene, my counterpart Teeny on the other hand, sometimes forgets to groom herself. Of course, I am always well kept and have my coat groomed to perfection. Unfortunately, this makes me prone to hairballs. If you have ever seen a cat hack up a hairball, it is not a pretty sight, believe you me. Well, much like the retched sound us kitties make when hacking up a hairball, if your horse is choked you may notice that he makes a gagging, hacking, coughing sound. He may have suddenly backed away from his feed while appearing anxious or nervous. You may even start to notice salvia and feed material coming from your horse’s mouth and nostrils. Sometimes horses will extend their neck and hold their head low. The signs of choke can be quite alarming, even for a brave cat like myself, but remember, panicking is not going to do anyone any good, so keep calm and call the office so my staff can walk you through what to do next.

What causes choking?

I see no problem with inhaling my food as fast as I possibly can, in fact, if I eat mine fast enough, I can sometimes get seconds because my minions think they forgot to feed me! Seems like a win-win to me. I guess for horses though, eating too quickly, or bolting their feed, is the primary cause of choke. Horses need to chew and moisten their feed thoroughly before swallowing and if they don’t, it may cause them to choke. Similarly, certain feed materials such as alfalfa cubes or beet pulp, must be pre-moistened with water prior to feeding. If not, and they are fed dry, your horse may be predisposed to choke. I recommend soaking alfalfa cubes and beet pulp in a bucket of water for at least 20 minutes prior to feeding. Your horse will get more water and be less prone to choke, another win-win for the books.

Occasionally, some horses may have conditions that predispose them to choke, including diverticulum and stricture. A diverticulum is a deviation of the esophagus that forms a pouch or sac in which feed material can become trapped, resulting in a choke. Strictures are basically a scar within the esophagus and can be caused by prior choke episodes that have caused damage to the lining of the esophagus. Strictures do not allow the esophagus to expand and contract normally and therefore may cause feed material to get stuck.

Why is choking a problem?

You’re probably thinking, if my horse can breathe, what’s the big deal with choke? Won’t it resolve on its own eventually? Here’s the thing, most chokes will resolve on their own, or with very little assistance from my docs.  On that rare occasion though, chokes can be very serious and lead to very serious problems including dehydration, colic, and aspiration pneumonia. The longer a horse is choked, the more likely these complications will arise and the more likely you’ll be in to visit me at the clinic.  While I would love for you all to come visit me, I would prefer if you leave your horses at home so you are able to give me your undivided attention. So, what does that mean? It means, if you suspect that your horse is choked or may have choked recently, call me, I’ll get my docs on the case and out to see your horse ASAP, leaving you plenty of time to come visit me.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

How is choke treated?

The first thing my docs will tell you when you call, is to remove your horse’s feed, hay, and water. Next, they will instruct you to keep your horse as calm as possible with his head down until they arrive. Upon arrival, my docs will perform a brief physical exam on your horse, they will check his heart rate, respiratory rate, temperature, and listen for guts sounds. They will determine if your horse is still choked and then decide how to proceed.

Next, they will likely provide your horse with a little sedative. I never need any sedative to sleep, put me in the sun and I am out cold for a good 14 hours of my day, but I digress. My docs will also give your horse a smooth muscle relaxer to help decrease the contractions of the esophagus. We have all seen a tube passed for a colic, right? Well, you’ll also see the tube pulled out if your horse is choked. Once your horse is sedated and muscle relaxants are on board, the docs will pass a nasogastric tube up your horse’s nose and into his esophagus. This allows them to locate the blockage as well as lavage the obstruction with water.

Let me tell you something, I will never be a Coca-Cola-drinking cat again. The other day, I saw one of the docs at the clinic lavage a very stubborn choke with Coca-Cola. And you know what? It worked! That is some powerful stuff! This by no means, means that you can accomplish the same thing by sticking a hose down your horse’s throat or have him drink Coca-Cola! Remember, my docs are highly trained professionals and these medications and procedures should only be administered and performed by licensed veterinarians. If you do it wrong, like sending the tube into the lungs, you can injure or kill your horse.

What is the after-care for choke?

Most chokes that resolve easily do not require any specific care. My docs will recommend that you feed your horse soaked grain from now on. Once your horse has one episode of choke, he is likely to have more. Thus, by soaking his feed, you will reduce the risk of repeat chokes. If your horse has been choked for several hours or has a choke that is difficult to resolve, the docs will likely put your horse on a course of antibiotics to help combat any possibility of the development of aspiration pneumonia.

If your horse seems to be dehydrated or showing signs of colic, the docs may refer him to me here at the clinic for intravenous fluids and careful monitoring. Of course, once your horse arrives here, I will give you, him, your truck and your trailer a full courtesy “cat” scan, it’s just what I do for my people. Fortunately, most of the time, chokes are easily resolved and after care is minimal.

In case you just miss me, and want to come visit, but don’t want your horse to choke to accomplish that, remember, our next seminar on First Aid will be at 6:30 pm on April 11th. It will of course be featuring yours truly, so come on out and get your Tony fix while learning all about first aid for your horse.

Until next week,

~ Tony

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Colic Mythbusters

Colic Mythbusters

Mar 18, 2019 | Colic

Tuesdays with Tony

I hope everybody was able to make it out to my recent Colic Seminar. Boy, did I learn a lot! Apparently there are several common misconceptions out there about colic that are not based on reality at all. In case you missed it, I am here to share my wealth of cat knowledge with you, and to bust those colic myths right out of the park!

Myth #1: Colic is a twisted gut.

Truth: The term ‘colic’ actually refers to a series of signs of pain, and doesn’t necessarily indicate a GI problem at all. If there’s one thing I’ve learned during my years as supervisor of an equine veterinary clinic, it’s that every horse colics differently. Some horses lay down and roll, but others paw and bite at their sides, still others simply don’t finish their grain and lift their upper lip (called the Flehmen response). I’ve heard of horses acting neurologic in their efforts to get comfortable, or even running erratically around their pasture.

This pain syndrome we call ‘colic’ can be caused by cramping, gas, a fever, a GI impaction, a urinary tract obstruction, severe pneumonia, stomach ulcers…. the list goes on. Basically, the vet’s job is to determine why your horse is colicking, and to make sure it’s not one of those rare but life-threatening ‘bad’ causes of colic, such as a twist (volvulus), strangulation, or displacement (a section of bowel is not where it’s supposed to be).

Myth #2: Horses twist their gut when they roll.

Truth: Not so fast. Have you ever seen a horse roll in the dirt, get up, shake off, and go about their day? I see the horses out in the paddocks do that all the time! I can also tell you that many horses go to surgery for a large intestine displacement or small intestine volvulus (180 degree twist) having never rolled.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Now, if you came to my wonderful Colic Seminar, you learned from Dr. Abbott that the horse’s GI tract, from mouth to rectum, measures over 100 feet. So there is definitely the potential for things to get tangled up in there. Here is the current understanding of what vets believe happens when horses actually ‘twist their gut’: Your horse gets dehydrated. This may be because there was a sudden temperature drop and he didn’t feel as thirsty as usual. Or, it may be because you were hauling to a competition and he didn’t have a water bucket in front of him the whole time. Or, it may be that he had a hoof abscess and he didn’t feel it was worth the pain to hobble on over to the water trough. For whatever reason, your horse became dehydrated, and now there is not enough moisture within his GI tract for his food (usually hay) to move along. So, it gets stuck. Now we have an impaction. Bummer.

Once your horse has an impaction, gas builds up behind (or on the mouth side of) the impaction. This gas-filled section of colon then tends to float up, and given the right circumstances, flip over top of the heavy, ingesta-filled section of colon. Now you’ve got yourself a ‘twisted gut,’ no rolling required.

Myth #3: Mineral oil is better than electrolyte solution.

Truth: This myth was busted LIVE by Dr. Vurgason at my awesome Colic Seminar, but in case you missed it, here’s how it went down. She put a fecal ball in a cup of mineral oil… it just sat there, unchanged, floating around, the whole time. She put another fecal ball in a cup of our top-secret electrolyte solution… and even before the seminar was over, it had almost completely dissolved and dispersed. This is the same solution our docs would administer to your horse via stomach tube if he were colicking. Shhhh, don’t tell anybody my secret recipe: it’s Epsom salt, lite salt, regular salt, and baking soda!

This amazing combination acts as a laxative, while also maintaining specific levels of certain minerals such as Magnesium, Sodium, Chloride, and Calcium to draw more water into the GI tract from the rest of the body. Mineral oil is a little old-school, but it does have it’s place. It will serve as a marker that your horse has passed the impaction when you see oil coming out his rear end. Other than that, we don’t think mineral oil is worth it’s salt.

Myth #4: There’s nothing I can do to prevent a colic.

Truth: While nobody can 100% prevent every type of colic, there are definitely things you can do to make it less likely that you will have a colic emergency. First off: water, and lots of it. Horses need to drink about 10 – 15 gallons of water per day just to maintain their hydration, and that’s not taking into account ongoing water loss such as sweating on a hot day. But as the saying goes, you can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him drink. What you can do, however, is add soaked beet pulp or soaked alfalfa cubes/pellets to his diet in order to get more moisture into him. You can also add about 1 tablespoon of salt to his feed twice daily to encourage him to drink.

In addition to water, your choice of hay and how you feed it can greatly alter your horse’s colic risk. Coastal hay has a known association with impaction colics. In my docs’ experience, the more fine, short, ‘cow-quality’ coastal hay is even more likely to cause an impaction. If you choose not to eliminate coastal hay from your horse’s diet, my docs strongly recommend adding about 1/4 flake of alfalfa or peanut hay for every flake of coastal hay you feed. These legume hays have laxative effects which help to keep the coastal hay moving through your horse’s GI tract.

Another common and semi-preventable type of colic we see is sand colic. By feeding your horse’s hay and grain in elevated feeders or hay nets, you can limit their accidental ingestion of sand. In addition, feeding psyllium in the form of Sand Clear pellets for 1 week a month can help to “clean out” the sand from the colon. Alfalfa hay can also help to achieve this goal by essentially raking the sand from the bottom of the large intestine where it likes to settle, and carrying it out in the manure.

If you enjoyed my Colic Seminar, you won’t want to miss my next See Tony Event: my First Aid Seminar, coming up on April 11th at 6:30pm, right here at the clinic. Hope to see all you cool cats there!

-Tony

P.S. If you’d like to watch the video of the colic seminar, or any of our other amazing videos, you can find them on our YouTube channel. 

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Insulin and Laminitis

Insulin and Laminitis

Mar 11, 2019 | Cushings, Diet, Exercise, Insulin Resistance, Laminitis

Tuesdays with Tony

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic Today has been a good day so far. I wandered around outside, slept in a sunny spot, then moved to a shady spot when it got too warm, enjoyed the sound of birds chirping, and just generally enjoyed the weather! Meanwhile, I have seen pictures from adoring fans around country buried in snow. That’s a hard no from this cat! I have seen as many as 12 flakes of snow at one time, and that was plenty, thank you very much. I have no desire to see more of that cold, wet, white stuff. There’s one small problem with this time of year. All that warm sunshine makes the grass grow, and if you’re a horse with an insulin issue, that grass is going to get you in more trouble than I get in when catnip is involved.

 

Insulin: Can’t live without it, too much will kill you slowly

 

Let’s review insulin, and what it does. When you eat anything containing sugar, even small amounts, your pancreas releases insulin. This insulin attaches to cells to tell them, “Hey, there’s sugar here. Come absorb it!” The cells do just that, and either store that sugar for later, or use it right away to power their little cell manufacturing facilities. All this works great until there is way, way more sugar than the cells need, then the body switches to hardcore storage. And that’s where this week’s blog really gets interesting. A vicious circle, not unlike Teanie Cat chasing her tail, is set up with the body releasing insulin so the cells will soak up the sugar, the cells ignoring the insulin, so the body releases more, and the cells ignore the signal even more. This is how we get to what’s known as Insulin Resistance (IR).

 

All that Insulin floating around

 

It turns out insulin does way more than just tell the cells of the body to suck up the sugar in the bloodstream. It also gets the growth machinery, mostly a thing called IGF-1, geared up. You see, when there’s extra sugar around, it’s a good time to grow some stuff. Lay down some bone, grow some skin, you know, spruce the body up a bit. Our bodies, cat, human, horse, all of them, aren’t designed for this system to be switched on for long periods of time. We all evolved to handle long periods of, gasp, scarcity of food. The system would experience excess sugar, lay down a lot of fat for the future lean times, fix some stuff that needed fixing, and then use all that fat when food got hard to get. Enter the modern age. We never get to that food is hard to come by period of the year. I will argue this point since I can’t get food whenever I want, and I’m often sure I’m starving, but I will say I get two to three solid meals a day, so there’s that. The growth machinery never, ever shuts down. The insulin just keeps getting pumped out. The cells say no more, even louder. The growth machinery keeps trying to grow stuff. And this is how we get to laminitis.

 

The L word

 

I have learned that no one in the horse world likes the word laminitis. For a long time, no one quite understood how or why fat horses got laminitis. For a while it was thought the thyroid gland wasn’t working quite right since other species with bad thyroid glands get fat, and have issues similar to laminitis. The problem was horses with low thyroid levels got skinny, not fat. Back to the drawing board. That drawing board was especially confusing because these fat horses improved on thyroid medications. Eventually the wise humans of the world got a better understanding of what was going on. This would have been figured out long ago if anyone had allowed cats to be involved. We know everything.

 

It turns out that growth machinery, and the cells ignoring insulin are both to blame for laminitis. The laminae are finger-like projections that come off the hoof capsule side of things, and the bone side of things. They hold each other tight to keep the hoof attached to the leg. In the picture below you can see that normally these are short, rounded fingers with long projections on their sides. On the abnormal side you see they turn long and skinny with short, squat projection along the sides. You can imagine those abnormal lamellae don’t hold on very well.

 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

 

How to make Insulin go down in three easy steps

 

The good news is insulin can go down, but it ain’t easy! Ask this fat cat how he knows…. No, don’t. I get a little testy when talking about my diet and exercise routine.

 

Step 1. Increase exercise. Even a little bit. Make sure your horse is exercising more each week than they were the week before. This can be as simple as walking for 10-15 minutes 3-4 times per week to start. Now if you already have laminitis going on, be sure you get one of my Docs to help you with an exercise plan.

 

Step 2. Decrease calories. Ration balancers, grazing muzzles, and slow feed hay bags are all excellent decrease-food-going-in options. The problem seems to be with you humans applying them. Got questions about the best way to do it? Ask my Docs!

 

Step 3. Medications to help. Sometimes even with diet and exercise, we need a little help to get things going the right direction. There are some great short term drug and supplement options to help get the diet and exercise going. Guess what? Ask my Docs for help!

 

It’s a tough time of year to be an easy keeper! Keep on top of your horse’s diet and exercise program, and know my minions are here to help!

 

Until next week,

 

~Tony

P.S. Make sure you scroll down and subscribe if you haven’t already. Don’t rely on Facebook to deliver my blog to you. They’re terribly unreliable about things like that, and my blog is far too important to risk missing!

 

Also, have you made it to one of my seminars lately? They are a fantastic resource for all you horse people out there. Free food, free information, and free selfies with Your’s Truly. You can’t beat it! You can see the list of upcoming seminars on the front page of my website at SpringhillEquine.com .

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Allergy Testing

Allergy Testing

Mar 4, 2019 | Allergies

Tuesdays with Tony

If you’ve been by the clinic lately, you may have noticed my fancy new hairdo. If you haven’t, I’ve provided a picture for you all to admire. A few weeks ago, my staff felt the need to show me off to all the lovely people at the University of Florida Veterinary School. Of course, I was happy to oblige to my adoring fans.

Springhill Equine

 

My staff explained to me that the reason for my visit was not just to get scratches and loves from the veterinarians, technicians, and students at UF, but it was important that I get checked out for allergies. The dermatology department at UF spent the day checking me out and performing intradermal skin allergy testing (IDAT) on me, hence my fancy new haircut. Did you know that horses can have allergies too? And did you know, my doctors here at Springhill Equine can perform allergy testing on your horse to help figure out why he/she likes to itch his/her mane off every spring, or why they tend to have trouble breathing during certain times of year?

 

What is Allergy Testing?

You may be asking yourself the question, what is allergy testing? Luckily for you, I have firsthand experience on this matter and can give you the lowdown on what exactly allergy testing is. There are two different types of test available. One is a blood test that measures certain protein antibody levels in the blood that may be causing your horse’s allergic symptoms. While sometimes this is a good starting point for allergy testing, intradermal testing is much more specific. Allergy blood testing can occasionally cause horses (and cats) to test positive to allergens that they are not actually allergic to. This is why my doctors choose to test your horse with the intradermal method. Using intradermal testing, my docs can test multiple different allergens that may be causing your horse’s discomfort. In order to provide you all with a play-by-play of what occurs during intradermal testing, I had this testing done during my visit at UF.

 

Why do we perform Allergy Testing?

The main reason we perform allergy testing is for the comfort of your horse. The goal of allergy testing is to identify specific allergens that your horse is reactive to so immunotherapy can be developed and your horse can be treated.

 

How do the docs perform intradermal testing?

The first step of intradermal allergy testing in to discontinue all allergy medications. I know that up until my appointment at UF, I spent way too many valuable napping hours scratching. I suppose it was the price to pay to figure out just what was causing all my discomfort. Horses also must be off all allergy medications. This means steroids, antihistamines, etc., for at least 14 days prior to testing. After your horse has been off his/her medication, the next step is to bring them into the clinic to see my docs.  While you’re here you might even get a personal “cat” scan from yours truly. You’ll leave your horse with me for the day for monitoring, while my docs do the heavy lifting and perform the tests.

 

So, now you’re probably wondering what will happen while your horse is in my care.  First, the staff here will clip a rectangular pattern on one side of your horse’s neck. I keep a watchful eye on this part. I wouldn’t dare let a horse leave my clinic without an awesome new hairdo like mine. Next the staff will make a 6 by 6 grid in the clipped area with a permanent marker. This grid serves as a guideline to where the allergens will be injected to your horse’s neck. Next, 36 different allergens are injected just under the skin using a very small needle. This was my least favorite part of my visit at UF, though thankfully it was followed by lots of scratches and treats.

 Equine Allergy testing

A positive control (something we know your horse will react to) and a negative control (something we know your horse will not react to) are also injected under the skin, so my docs have something to compare the test allergens to. One hour after initial injection, the docs will compare the test allergens to the controls and mark those allergens which have any kind of reaction. Your horse will be looked at again three hours after initial injection and the reactions will be recorded. For the rest of the day, I will hang out with your horse and keep him/her company while he/she enjoys some tasty hay and my staff ensures no further reactions are going to occur.

 

What does all this mean?

So, you’re probably starting to think this whole allergy testing thing is sounding pretty cool, and you would be right.  You’re also probably wondering what the next step is after my docs have identified the allergens behind your horse’s discomfort. Now that reactive allergens have been identified, the docs will work with laboratories to develop immunotherapy specific to your horse. I too, got my own special immunotherapy developed specifically to treat the allergens my body was reactive to. I guess that makes me a pretty special cat, but of course we already knew that.

 

The goal of the immunotherapy is to slowly expose your horse’s immune system to low doses of allergens and gradually increase the dose. This will desensitize the immune system to the allergen so when your horse is exposed to it, it no longer reacts. And that means no more itching, no more mane ruined by rubbing, no more tails rubbed raw, and no more trouble breathing. Fortunately, once your horse’s immune system has been desensitized to the most reactive allergens, immunotherapy will no longer be needed.  A few shots for a few weeks/months seem well worth a life without scratching, if you ask me.

 

So next time you’re at the clinic, feel free to check on me and see how my immunotherapy is going. Actually, I’d be happy if you just give me pets and love. But, while you’re here, talk to my staff about setting up allergy testing for your itchy horse.

 

Until next week,

 

Tony

 

P.S. I listened to a particularly intriguing episode of Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth this week. If you haven’t listened to it yet, make sure you put it on your list. It’s all about dentals, and I guarantee you will learn something you didn’t know!

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Training Horses (and pigs!)

Training Horses (and pigs!)

Feb 25, 2019 | Training

Tuesdays with Tony

Last weekend we had a professional animal trainer, Carolyn Rice, come to the clinic to help us work with a pig who is here for boarding. Carolyn has experience working with all types of animals, from zebras to camels, even ducks! While every animal is different in terms of how their brain works, any animal has the potential to learn. I’ve even managed to teach Teanie a trick or two. So, from one of those animals who is notoriously difficult to train, here are some tips on where to start with your unruly horse, pig, dog, cat, chicken, or other beloved pet. 

 

Know your animal

   
Regardless of which species you are working with, you need to have a basic understanding of how their brain works before you can teach them anything. 
Since this is an equine clinic, we will talk about horses first. Horses are prey animals, and as such, their fight-or-flight instinct is quite strong. This means that most horses will respond to you simply moving into their space, raising your arms to head-level, or driving them forward with your body position. Many horses are also food motivated, and will do just about anything for a small treat. 
    In a herd, all of the other horses will look to the dominant stallion to know whether or not something is a threat. Similarly, whether you are training on the ground or under saddle, your horse should look to you as the leader. If you say it’s okay, they need to trust you that there’s nothing to worry about. 
    As a prey species, horses have a point of balance, a pressure zone, and a flight zone. When a human, or other predator, stands in the horse’s flight zone, the horse will move away from the predator. The more tame a horse, the smaller its flight zone. This knowledge can be useful when trying to catch a horse in the field, moving a group of horses, or teaching a horse to work on a longe line. 
Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic
     Dogs, on the other hand, are predators who have been bred for centuries to be loyal to humans, almost to a fault. Dogs have a strong play drive, and love to be close to their people. Rather than flee away, most dogs will go toward a human who is running. If you’ve ever played fetch or tug-of-war with a dog, you know they love the thrill of winning.
     Different species, and even different breeds, have a different assortment of talents. Dogs use their mouths to solve problems, whereas pigs use their snouts. If horses are faced with a problem, they will normally use their long legs and enormous lungs to run away quickly!
     So, do some research on the animal you are working with. What is their history? What are they bred to be good at? How big is their brain? How well can they see, or smell? Can they learn words? Once you truly understand your pet, training will be a breeze. 
 

Command respect

     One of the best places to start in training your pet is with basic obedience, or ground manners. Respecting personal space is an important lesson for any young animal to learn. In the wild, other animals in a pack or a herd will teach personal space by biting, kicking, barking, or squealing when another animal gets too close. In a domestic setting, however, it is your job as the owner to teach your pet these ground rules. 
     Animals can actually push the boundaries of respect without you even realizing what they are doing. Does your horse ever use you as a scratching post? Does your dog put his paw on your leg when he wants attention? Does your pig root at your shoe when he wants to be fed? These are all actually subtle acts of defiance and insubordination which, over time, can make your pet believe that he or she is in charge.    
     An easy place to begin in terms of commanding respect is at feeding time. Pets depend on humans to provide for their basic needs, including food, water, and shelter. Every day at feeding time is an opportunity for you to work on that respect. For example, you can teach your dog or pig to sit and wait before you give him his food bowl. You can teach your horse or donkey to let you put their halter on before you dump their grain in their bucket. Working on these simple skills for just 5-10 minutes twice a day will go a long way.
 

Use positive reinforcement 

    In animal behavior, there are four types of reinforcement/punishment. There is positive reinforcement- for example when I get a piece of lunch meat for raising my paw. Negative reinforcement occurs when I walk outside to avoid the screaming pig in the barn (as soon as I step outside, the negative stimulus stops, which encourages me to go outside). I experience positive punishment whenever one of the techs swats me off the hood of the truck for scratching the paint and getting muddy footprints everywhere. Negative punishment happens when I am getting scritches from a client in the office, but they stop when I bite their hand. 
    My favorite of these options is positive reinforcement. I learn best and fastest when I am rewarded for performing a desired behavior. This is true for most animals, regardless of breed, species, or what behavior you are trying to teach. If you can figure out a way to use positive reinforcement in your training, you will be impressed with the results. 
      Here at Springhill Equine, the docs and techs also like to use clicker training as a form of positive reinforcement. Clickers can be used on any animals, even humans, to train a desired behavior. Too bad I don’t have opposable thumbs!
 
     I hope these training tips have given you a starting point towards making your pet the productive member of society he was meant to be. If you ever have any questions about animal behavior, or need recommendations for a trainer, the humans at my office are always a great resource. 
 
Sit. Stay. Good human. Now, scroll down and subscribe to this blog. Click!
   
       -Tony
Springhill Equine foal check

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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What Coggins Testing Is All About

What Coggins Testing Is All About

Feb 18, 2019 | Uncategorized

Tuesdays with Tony

From my view at the front desk, and extensive inspection of trailers as they arrive and depart, I have determined that an awful lot of you are here for something called a Coggins. I have concluded that this is a test of the ability of my minions to take a picture of a horse with their ears forward. The shenanigans that go on to try to get three (or sometimes even just one) decent photographs of a horse amaze me on a daily basis. Apparently there is also a blood test involved, but that seems to be the easy part of this process. It seems these tests are always negative, so why are they necessary? Read on for words of wisdom from this wise cat.

 

What’s a Coggins test testing for?

 

Equine Infectious Anemia is a nasty, nasty bugger. This virus gets spread by insect bites. Usually it’s horseflies, but mosquitoes have been known to get involved, too. Here’s the annoying thing about this virus: it can float around a horse for years without any symptoms. All that time it’s busily infecting any willing horsefly or mosquito, and spreading itself to other horses. Equine Infectious Anemia is what’s known as a lentivirus. Another famous lentivirus: HIV. Just like HIV, Equine Infectious Anemia eventually destroys the immune system of an infected horse, leaving them susceptible to infections. All this sounds awful! I was horrified to learn there is a cat version of this virus called FIV.

Springhill Equine veterinary Clinic

 

How do you fight what you can’t find?

 

Prior to the late 1960s there was no way to even test for Equine Infectious Anemia. The Docs of that era (mine weren’t born yet), were left worrying if any horse with a fever had this dreaded disease, or a simple cold. There was no way to tell other than time. Outbreaks were tough to control because horses could be normal for so long before showing symptoms, and even then those symptoms were the same as many other much less serious viruses. From the first report of the disease in the United States in 1888, there were frequent outbreaks. Racetracks and breeding farms were often hit hard since it took time to recognize the presence of the disease. An outbreak at a racetrack in 1947 caused the death of 77 horses before it could be brought under control! This all sounded awful to me! Then came Dr. Coggins.

 

A way to test

 

Around 1968 Dr. Coggins worked out a way to test horses for Equine Infectious Anemia. And thus the Coggins test was born! That’s right, there’s a Dr. Coggins. Now horses could be tested to determine if their fever was Equine Infectious Anemia. By 1973, the State of Florida was the first State to make a negative Coggins test mandatory for horses being sold, or raced. Many of the Gulf Coast States were quick to follow, since the lovely hot, humid weather in these parts is great for the spread of Equine Infectious Anemia. It quickly became mandatory for horses traveling anywhere, for any reason.

 

Test, Test, Test

 

The Coggins test has caused a massive reduction in the incidence of Equine Infectious Anemia! In 2017, there were 80 positive horses in the United States. In 1975 that number was 10,371. That’s a huge difference!

There are other hidden things that happen as a result of Coggins tests. First, a veterinarian gets at least a brief look at your horse. This is so important, and I’m often appalled at the number of people who don’t value it. Having my Docs take a look and evaluate your horse yearly can help you head off major issues by addressing them when they’re minor. From teeth, to feet, to nutrition, to skin problems, the Docs can often offer quick, simple fixes in the early stages. Second, governments look at Coggins test numbers to estimate the number of horses in an area. This is how they help decide to spend money on local horse projects. Need an upgrade to your local State Park’s horse trails? Use Coggins numbers to show how many horses are around to use those facilities!

I know Coggins tests can be a bit of a pain. Who hasn’t been ready to go somewhere only to realize their Coggins expired yesterday? It’s always yesterday, never tomorrow. But if it means your horses get to live longer, happier lives, it’s a very small price to pay.

Until next week,

~ Tony

P.S. You should click over to the home page and check out all the upcoming seminars! If you haven’t been to one lately, you’ve been missing out on a great opportunity to hang out with me. And learn stuff about horses, of course.

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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How To Buy A Horse

How To Buy A Horse

Feb 11, 2019 | Uncategorized

Tuesdays with Tony

So you wanna buy a horse. What kind of horse do you want? Oh wait I know, because this is what all the humans say: a gelding who is 16.2, black with some white (but not too much), must be ready to go Grand Prix (dressage, and show jumping, in the same weekend), oh and must be able to trail ride on the buckle despite deer and turkey making a ruckus, and, finally, must poop in one spot in the stall so it’s easy to clean.

Sure, I might have taken the description a bit far there, but you get the idea. Cats do love hyperbole. Let’s talk about what you really, really want in a horse, and how to find it.

 

Step 1: Write down some stuff

 

What do you currently do with your horse? If it’s take a lesson once a week on someone else’s horse, that’s great! If it’s walk and trot for 15-20 minutes, that’s good, too. If it’s compete at the National level in Western Pleasure, that’s fantastic! Start with where you are now. Then, and only then, move on to where you want to go next. You can dream a bit, don’t go too wild. If you’re doing Intro Dressage, maybe you want a horse that can take you up through 4th level. Maybe it’s a horse you can trailer to out-of-state parks to camp and ride. Be careful to stay within what’s reasonable for the next few years. For example, if you just started taking lessons last month, and now you want an Olympic-level show jumper, this is not a good plan. An even worse plan is now I want a 2 year old so we can “grow” together. You humans are really good at dreaming a little too big during this phase of the process. Not sure what a good future goal would be? Find a professional who can help you with that!!! Pay them for this knowledge. It’s totally worth it!

 

Step 2: See what’s out there

 

This does not mean call up McLain Ward and see if HH Azur is available to try. This means check out the ads on Facebook, and all the horse-for-sale sites to see what’s around. Use your goals list to find horses actually doing what you want to do. Now, and here’s the tricky part, how much do those horses cost? Sure, Dr. Lacher wants a horse that will take her around the International Hunter Derby, but until she gets adopted by Bill Gates, that’s not likely to happen. You get the idea. Let this portion of our activity be the check on your wishes. It’s also why I said don’t dream too big in your goals in Step 1. Again, know who else can help you with this phase? A good professional. Oh, and pay them for this knowledge, too. It’s still totally worth it.

 

Step 3. Now go look at what’s out there

 

Alright, you know what you want, and you have a reasonable price range. Go try some horses. This is really, really, really where you want to have a professional helping you. You know why? Because you humans will fall in love with the wrong thing every time. From other humans to horses, you just don’t pick well. You need someone with an objective eye. Sure, that chestnut mare with the white stockings is beautiful, but she pinned her ears and tried to buck you off every time you asked her to lope off. Now maybe that’s something you have the skills to work through, maybe it isn’t. Having someone else’s thoughts on the matter is really important! After you’ve tried each horse, use those opposable thumbs, and write some stuff down. What did you like? What did you hate?

 Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Step 4. Get a pre-purchase exam

 

You knew I was going to get to the doctor stuff at some point. I do live in a veterinary clinic, after all. When you decide which horse, get a thorough pre-purchase exam done. The key part of that is PRE. Yes, before you buy the horse.

 

A pre-purchase exam is an incredibly thorough evaluation of a horse. My Docs look very closely at every part of them from the whiskers on their nose, to the hair on their tail. They do a full lameness and neurological evaluation as well. In other words, they check for all the things. Now, these are horses, and no one can 100% predict the future, especially when it comes to horses. However, they will know the most they can for you about this horse, on this particular day.

 

After the exam, the Docs usually recommend some x-rays. X-rays help them evaluate what’s going on inside. In particular, front feet, hocks, and stifles can be future problem areas. Knowing what they look like on this day can give them an idea about the future. Pre-purchase exams can get very expensive, very quickly. I’m not saying everyone needs to take x-rays of the entire horse. I am saying don’t skip the exam part of things!

 

A horse is a major expense, whether you’re spending $5,000 or $500,000. Spending a few hundred dollars to check it out first is called being a Smart Buyer. Be a Smart Buyer. If you’ll read my blog on nutrition, you can pay for your pre-purchase exam with the money you save on all those unnecessary supplements!

 

Step 5. Put it all together

 

Each one of these steps is important. Don’t pick the horse that won’t meet your goals, because it passed the pre-purchase. At the same time, don’t pick the horse that is perfect in every way, except it’s lame in three legs on the pre-purchase. Take everything in consideration.

 

The most important final step

 

Scroll down a little bit further, and subscribe to this blog. Then go subscribe to the podcast the humans do called Straight From The Horse Doctor’s Mouth. The more you know about horses, the better-prepared you will be as a horse owner. And seriously, I’m giving you all my cat knowledge for free. Where else can you get that kind of love?

 

Until next week,

 

~ Tony

Tuesdays with Tony is the official blog of Tony the Clinic Cat at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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