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The Udderly Fantastic Guide to Pet Cows

The Udderly Fantastic Guide to Pet Cows

Jan 22, 2024 | Cows

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

So, you’ve decided to expand your furry family with a couple of hooved companions? Whinny the clinic mouse here, ready to spill the hay on the ins and outs of acquiring, raising, and taking care of your very own pet cows. Take it from a very experienced clinic mouse: cows are no walk in the pasture. They demand attention, love, and a keen understanding of their unique needs. They are very large, potentially dangerous animals and should generally only be owned by humans with livestock experience. If you fit that bill, read on as we dig into the details and navigate the moos and groans of cow parenting!

Choosing Your Bovine Bestie

Before you dive headfirst into the world of cattle companionship, let’s discuss the fascinating array of cattle breeds. Whether it’s the docile Holstein or the hardy Angus, each breed comes with its own set of characteristics and challenges, and picking the right one can make all the difference in your pet-owning experience. Consider your available space, climate, and your own preferences when picking the perfect cow. Oh, and don’t forget about zoning regulations – your neighbors might not appreciate a surprise cow invasion.

  1. Holstein: The Gentle Giant

Known for their distinctive black-and-white markings, Holsteins are the heavyweights of the dairy world. Renowned for their docile nature, they’re excellent choices for experienced cattle families seeking a cuddly and milk-rich companion. However, keep in mind that they are very large and will require a lot of space.

  1. Angus: The Hardy Homesteader

If you’re looking for a sturdy and low-maintenance option, Angus cattle might fit the bill. With their black coats and robust build, these cattle thrive in various climates. Some members of this breed can be very calm and friendly, but personalities can vary!

  1. Hereford: The Friendly Grazer

Recognizable by their red and white coloration, Herefords boast a friendly disposition. They are known for their adaptability and are well-suited for those new to bovine parenthood if acquired as calves. Watch out in sunny areas though, these white-faced cattle are prone to UV exposure related diseases like squamous cell carcinoma.

  1. Belted Galloway: The Stylish Sidekick

Sporting a distinctive white belt around their midsection, Belted Galloways are not only stylish but also hardy. Their thick, shaggy coat serves as natural insulation, making them well-suited for colder climates. These charismatic cows can add a touch of flair to your northern homestead.

  1. Brahman: The Southern Charmer

Uniquely designed to live comfortably in the South, these massive humped cattle are a striking addition to any pasture. Take care though, they must be handled and trained from a very young age with extreme diligence as they are the most stubborn breed around. They are also incredibly large and can be dangerous even without meaning to.

Once you’ve got your heart set on a specific breed, it’s time to find a reputable breeder. A healthy start is crucial, so make sure your chosen cow comes from a clean and well-maintained environment. Insist on proper documentation of vaccinations and health checks – you wouldn’t want any unwanted surprises.

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Whinny’s Wisdom: Cattle breeders do not bring their best, or even second-best, animals to auctions.

Buyer Beware

As you embark on your journey to welcome bovine buddies into your life, it’s crucial to exercise caution in the cattle marketplace. Miniature cattle, while adorable, can harbor potential genetic issues that may not be immediately apparent and cause life-long expensive medical concerns. When purchasing, steer clear of auctions or tractor and supply stores, as the best animals from reputable breeders are rarely found there. Animals in such venues often carry undisclosed health issues, leading to unexpected challenges down the pasture road. Additionally, buyers interested in long hair cattle, like the Scottish Highland breeds, should consider the impact of hot climates on these cold-adapted creatures. The lush coats that make them iconic pose difficulties in warmer weather, leading to deadly heat stress. To ensure a healthy and happy bovine addition to your family, prioritize acquiring animals from trusted breeders with a track record of responsible breeding practices.

A Few Other Considerations

Castration

While bulls may conjure images of strength and power, they aren’t exactly the ideal candidates for a cozy petting session. Bulls can and do become aggressive and challenging to handle as they mature. To avoid unnecessary headaches, consider castrating bulls at a young age or only purchasing already castrated male calves. This not only makes them more docile but also eliminates the risk of unwanted pregnancies.

Dehorning: A Safety Measure Worth Taking

Cattle with horns may look majestic, but those pointed accessories pose risks, both to the animal itself and its human companions. To prevent injuries and ensure a safer environment, only purchase dehorned or polled (born without horns) calves. If you acquire a calf young enough you can have your veterinarian dehorn after purchase, but be warned, after about 8 weeks of age they can no longer be dehorned in a routine way and must instead have an invasive surgery. Did you see an older baby bull-calf with horns on Facebook Marketplace? Just say no unless you have an extra $1,000 laying around to address the things that weren’t done by the seller.

Raising Happy Cattle

Now that your new companions have hoofed their way into your life, it’s time to get down to the nitty-gritty of husbandry. All cattle thrive on routine, so establish a consistent feeding and turnout schedule. Provide ample space for your animals to graze and roam. A happy cow is a healthy cow, after all. Pet cows generally do well on pasture most of the year with added hay in winter months. ‘Pasture’ means way more than just your backyard! In Florida, stocking densities vary from 2-25 acres required PER COW depending on what type and quality of grass your property has. All cattle must have access to free choice minerals to help make up for what pasture lacks. Milking cows or growing calves will often need grain supplementation, but beware over-feeding!

Ensure they have access to clean water and shelter, protecting them from extreme weather conditions. Invest in quality bedding for shelters or stalls to prevent hoof issues and keep your cow’s living space clean. Regularly inspect their environment for potential hazards and fix any fences or gates that may pose a danger. Remember, a safe and secure environment is the foundation of a healthy, happy herd. And yes, a good scratch behind the ears never hurt anyone – cows appreciate a little affection too.

The Veterinarian: Your Cow’s Best Friend

Now, let’s talk veterinary care – the unsung hero of bovine well-being. Regular check-ups with a qualified veterinarian are non-negotiable. Vaccinations, deworming, and hoof care should be part of the routine – a proactive approach keeps those moo-tastrophes at bay.

Don’t be shy about consulting your vet for advice on nutrition and preventive measures. A customized health plan ensures your cows are tip-top, whether they’re giving you gallons of milk or just adorable moments to cherish. It will always be cost-saving to involve your veterinarian upfront, rather than calling them for a weekend emergency. And if you want to keep those veterinarians you have a great relationship with coming back to your farm, be sure they have an easy time working with your cattle. This most often means providing facilities for handling. Whether it’s a small catch pen with panels, a milking stanchion or head catch, or a full hydraulic chute, there needs to be a safe area to effectively contain and control your 800+ lb animals so your veterinarian doesn’t get hurt while tending to their needs.

Common Health Issues

Despite your and your veterinarians best efforts, pet cattle can still face health challenges. Be vigilant for signs of common issues like mastitis, respiratory infections, or lameness. Early detection and prompt veterinary intervention can make all the difference.

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Keep an eye on your cow’s body condition – obesity and undernourishment are both troublesome. If your cow starts acting a bit off, don’t play the guessing game; consult your vet promptly. Remember, a proactive approach to health issues ensures your cows live long and moo-tiful lives.

Remember, a good relationship with your vet, a solid husbandry routine, and a watchful eye for preventive care are your best allies. So, gear up, future cow enthusiasts, and embark on this udderly fantastic adventure! Your cows will thank you with hearty moos and a lifetime of companionship. Happy herding!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you subscribed to my blog yet? If you’ll scroll down to the big purple box and put your email address in it, I’ll email you my blog every week. That way you get it a day or two before it shows up on Facebook, and you don’t have to rely on Facebook to show it to you (and we all know how reliable they are!) So, be a good human, scroll down a bit more. There you go… purple box. Good human!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Foal Watch Time!

Foal Watch Time!

Jan 15, 2024 | Foaling

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s January, which means for some, the time may be approaching to start foal watch on your pregnant mare! Mares have an 11-month gestation and some breeds do their best to have a foal born as close as they can to the first of the year. Knowing the normal birth process allows us to catch any problems early and intervene if necessary.

Foal watch usually starts about 2 weeks before the mare’s foaling date. Foal watch starts with monitoring the mare’s behavior, eating habits, and changes to her body. The mare’s gluteal muscles will become very soft when she is close to foaling and her tail will also become more relaxed. Her udder will start to produce milk. We can monitor for changes in the milk by checking its pH. Once the pH of her milk drops below 7, the mare will likely foal in the next 24 hours. Click here to watch a short video demonstrating these things!

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Three Stages of Parturition in Mares

Stage 1

This stage is getting the foal in position for delivery. Therefore, some of the signs, such as getting up and down, may be similar to colic. She may go off her feed intermittently. Often times, the mare may be seen rolling, pawing and frequently kicking at her abdomen. Usually these signs will diminish, the mare will return to normal, and it will be very confusing to those who are waiting for the foal to come.  You may also notice that your mare has contractions. This can last for many days prior to actually having a foal on the ground. The humans tell me that this is how your mare makes sure you are exhausted before anything ever happens.

Stage 2

This stage is crazy fast and it is important to keep track of the duration of time the mare is in this stage. This stage starts when the mare’s water breaks and lasts until the foal is expelled. This should take no more than 30 minutes. This is when things can go very wrong, very quickly. The foal should be presenting front feet first, followed shortly by a nose. If it does take longer than 30 minutes, or if you see a red bag or anything other than front feet and nose, then this is a dystocia and is a medical emergency. Call your vet immediately no matter what time it is!

Stage 3

The final stage is expulsion of the placenta. This should be passed no more than 3 hours after the foal is born. If the placenta has a piece missing or has not been expelled in the appropriate time frame, this is a medical emergency for the mare. Again, call your vet no matter what time it is.

The 1-2-3 Rule

Besides the 3 stages listed above, it’s important to know the 1-2-3 Rule and keep note of the times the mare and foal are meeting important milestones. These milestones are:

  1. The foal should be standing within 1 hour after being born.
  2. The foal should be successfully nursing within 1 hour after standing (so 2 hours after being born). This is vital for a foal to receive the colostrum from their mom. This is where they receive their immune system. A foal is born without an immune system and will not have the ability to fight infection and pathogens unless it gets the colostrum from its mother.
  3. As mentioned above, the mare should pass her placenta no later than 3 hours after her foal is born.

 Foal watch, with its meticulously delineated stages of parturition, helps ensure the health and wellbeing of your mare and new foal. Horses aren’t nearly as good at this whole reproduction thing as mice are, so they often need some help. When you’re standing in the barn at 2:00 in the morning trying to decide if you should bother your veterinarian or not, remind yourself that you have invested a tremendous amount of time, money, and heartache to get to this point. Always err on the side of caution, and don’t gamble with your mare and foal! I promise that your vet would rather respond to a false alarm than sleep through a crisis.

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If all goes well with the foaling, you’ll need to have your vet come out for a new foal exam. They usually time this so that they arrive when the foal is around a day old, but also while it’s daytime. Along with a thorough physical exam, they’ll pull blood to do an IgG test, which will tell them if your foal got enough colostrum. If it didn’t, it will need plasma immediately, and they will help you with that.

This is the point that more or less closes out the end of a year of breeding insanity and begins the next chapter of madness: raising a foal! I’ll save that topic for another day. There’s a block of cheese that’s been sitting out on the desk calling my name…

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Don’t forget to go watch that video! It will show you exactly what your mare will look like when it’s approaching Go Time. And while you’re on our YouTube Channel, look around! We’ve got a great video library for you, including a number of seminars on breeding and foaling which are packed with much more information than I shared here, and it’s all free! Make sure you use all the tools to do this job!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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White Line Disease in Horses

White Line Disease in Horses

Jan 8, 2024 | White Line Disease

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here! Since you’re a horse person, you’ve probably heard the old saying “No hoof, no horse”, and it will always ring true. Let’s chat today about a common hoof problem – White Line Disease. With the wet weather we’ve had lately, my Springhill vets have been seeing quite a few cases, and you may have even seen it without realizing!

Also called seedy toe, white line disease can start with just a little separation at the hoof wall. Maybe you’ve gone a little too long between trims and your horse’s hooves have gotten a bit too long. You notice a small gap between the outer hoof wall and the sole, and some dirt is packed in there. That can be how WLD starts, and at this early stage it can be pretty manageable, but it can get out of control before you know it. Let’s go into what white line disease is, what causes it, and what you can do about it.

What is White Line Disease?

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White line disease is basically an infection in your horse’s foot caused by bacteria and fungi getting into a gap in the hoof wall. The infection takes place in the tissue between the outer hoof wall and the sensitive inner tissues of the hoof. It doesn’t take any special evil organisms to cause this problem, it’s just the normal bacteria and fungi in your horse’s environment that are just waiting for the opportunity to find a nice place to set up shop. What they love is a dark, moist place, and a little space inside the hoof wall is their real estate dream. As the bacteria and fungi work their way into the hoof wall, they eat away at the tissue that should be keeping the hoof connected to the deeper structures. It’s a vicious cycle – once they access even further up inside the hoof and have a lovely dark, protected area, it gets much more difficult to clean them out. If you look at a foot with WLD, you’ll see a cavity between the outer hoof wall and the sole. You may be able to stick a hoof pick up in there and pick out some crumbly material that is the degraded hoof plus dirt, bacteria, and fungi.

You can find WLD on just one or two feet, or it can affect all four. In the early stages, your horse may not yet be sore, but as the tissue invasion becomes extensive, it can cause lameness. It can even progress to a very serious stage where the coffin bone loses connection to the hoof wall and begins to rotate (similar to, but different from, laminitis).

What Causes White Line Disease?

Like I said, bacteria and fungi are involved in WLD, but it’s not so simple as that, because the bacteria and fungi are always there in the environment, and not every hoof gets WLD. So how do they get into a foot?

It comes down to a separation that occurs in the hoof that gives the organisms a chance to invade – the bacteria and fungi are just there to take advantage of it. Why does that separation occur in the first place? Poor trimming or sometimes a conformational issue such as club foot can be the cause. A horse with chronic laminitis can also be at greater risk due to the loss of integrity of the hoof. Most commonly, a long toe or overgrown foot can distort the hoof and cause mechanical stress that leads to the hoof wall separating near the white line. Just another of the 10,000 reasons it’s important to stay on top of your horse’s hoof care and get him a quality trim at a regular interval.

Any age, sex, or breed of horse can be affected.  While it can occur in any climate, it’s more common in humid conditions (ahem, Florida anyone?) since wet footing can soften the hoof and allow the organisms easier entry into the tissues.

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How Do We Treat and Prevent White Line Disease?

First, we have to recognize the WLD. You’ll want to pay close attention to your horse’s feet when you’re picking them out. If you think there are any areas of separation, pockets of dirt, and crumbly hoof near the white line, talk to my doc and your farrier. If your horse wears shoes, it’s a little trickier to observe this area, so your farrier should take a good look when she removes the shoe to trim the foot. One of the best things you can do to prevent WLD is just to have your horse trimmed frequently (about every 5 weeks, depending on the horse) and to make sure the toes don’t become too long. A well-trimmed foot is much less likely to develop this problem. On top of that, pick your horse’s feet regularly and give them a chance to dry out. Admittedly, the drying part can be tricky during some times of the year.

If your horse does develop white line disease, my doc and your farrier should work together to develop a treatment plan. Unfortunately, just picking the cavity out and applying medications is unlikely to stop the progression. A very minor WLD may be able to be trimmed out by your farrier during a routine visit. Larger areas of separation will require additional treatment. My doc may need to take a radiograph to see how extensive the damage is within the foot. She’ll need to correct any abnormal forces on the foot (such as an overgrown toe) that are causing the separation. All the other treatment will not really be effective if the primary cause isn’t fixed.

Next, my doc has to stop those bacteria and fungus in their tracks. The most important part is to remember what those organisms love – a nice dark, moist space that can’t easily be cleaned out. So my doc takes the roof from over their head by performing a hoof wall resection! Those critters don’t stand a chance once their hiding place is exposed to light and air. My doc uses a hoof nipper or Dremel to remove the outer layer of hoof wall from over the cavity. The organisms are prevented from hiding up there, and the infected area is exposed for medications to be applied. Medical treatment is almost never useful unless the hoof wall over the infection is removed, so don’t waste your money on the various lotions and potions that make lofty claims.

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It can look a bit dramatic to see a bunch of hoof wall removed, but don’t worry, it’s actually only the outer part of the hoof that is already disconnected. So there’s no bleeding, and it’s not painful to the horse. It’s much better than leaving the bacteria and fungus to eat away at the hoof. If a lot of hoof wall must be removed, a shoe can be helpful to stabilize the foot until new hoof grows down.

Once the outer hoof wall is removed, you’ll need to keep the hoof clean. My doc likes to soak the hoof in CleanTrax once a week to disinfect the hoof. The new, healthy hoof wall will grow downwards from the coronary band and as long as you have corrected the primary problems, your horse should grow in a normal hoof!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you seen the latest videos over on my YouTube Channel? I just published one explaining how to treat thrush with copper sulfate crystals and a wax ring from the hardware store. Well, the humans did it, but I was involved! There’s tons of great how-to horse healthcare videos on my channel, as well as seminars, the Horse Girl series, and more. Give it a gander. It’s the best free veterinary resource around, except for our Podcast! Not to brag, but Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth is the biggest equine podcast in the world. Now that I mention that, I think I need to step my game up with my blog! Help a girl out and subscribe, would you?

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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How To Keep Horses Warm

How To Keep Horses Warm

Jan 2, 2024 | Blanketing, Cold weather

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s another rainy, winter day here. It’s not cold yet, because, well Florida, but that’s coming in the next few hours. It led this enquiring mouse mind to wonder how best to keep warm, and that got me wondering how best to keep a horse warm? This journey of horse knowledge is never ending! As a tiny field mouse who lives near a barn, I know I have some great choices. I like to find some roughage like old, dry grass, or leaves to make a burrow in. I grab some delicious snacks I’ve stored away, and snuggle down for a warm bite, followed by a cozy nap. Let’s find out if the same works for horses!

Hot Food

You humans like to warm up with warm things, like hot chocolate, tea, and coffee. It makes it tempting to offer things like warm mashes to horses. While they might like the idea of some hot oatmeal, with carrots, and apples, and all the trimmings, this is going to do far more for you humans than it will for a horse. First let’s consider the size of the critter. Tiny little field mouse me could eat some warm food, and actually affect my core temperature. Same for one of you humans. However, it has proven time and again that warm, or cold, water can’t be consumed in a high enough quantity to affect the body temperature of a 1200 pound horse. The water has to be so hot, or so cold, and in such rapidly consumed quantities that the laws of Nature don’t let this work out.  Let’s also remember that horses prefer a slow change to their diet. Suddenly throwing a sugar and calorie laden meal at them is a recipe for a colic disaster. I recommend against it. 

Long Hair

As someone with a luxuriant coat, I can attest to the insulation power of fur! You humans don’t understand this one at all, and trust me, it shows. If your horse has been living in their current environment for at least 12 months, the chances are they have an appropriate fur coat to handle the winter conditions for that area. I know, I know. This is hard to believe! It’s also hard to believe that Florida really doesn’t get that cold, but it’s true. No matter where they live, most horses will do just fine with the fur they have, provided some key needs are met. Moisture and wind decrease the ability of hair to hold on to heat. Ensuring your horse has somewhere to get dry and to get out of the wind will allow their fur to be all it can be. Winter coats can be compromised by things like poor nutrition, older age, and PPID (Cushings). These horses may need to have some added help to stay warm. 

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Blankets

Oh boy. I’m going to step my paw into this controversy. As we discussed above, most horses don’t need blankets. My limited experience has shown that most humans think most horses do in fact need blankets. Let’s discuss my research on who actually needs a blanket. Horses who have been body clipped definitely need blankets, but probably not as heavily as most humans think. One study taught horses to tell their handlers if they wanted their blanket on or off. It was found that when temperatures were below about 15F, all the horses wanted their blankets on. These horses were located in Northern Europe so they knew a thing or two about being cold. There hasn’t been a lot of study on horses in warmer environments, like the Southeastern United States. However, it is known that horses greatly prefer colder temperatures than the average Southeastern United States human. That 15F temperature is what’s known as their lowest critical temperature. This is the temperature at which it starts to cost the average horse more energy to stay warm than they can consume. Makes sense that this is when they want a blanket. This means that most horses, in most of the areas where horse people have them in most of the world, probably don’t need a blanket if they have their nutrition needs met, and have a place to get out of the wind and rain. But if your horse is body clipped, has a body condition score less than 5, or has a compromised hair coat thanks to PPID, consider a blanket. Remember though, that blanket can’t go on and stay on. You will need to have a plan for taking it off as temperatures go up through the day.

Roughage is Always the Best

And finally we get to the best way to keep a horse warm: Hay. Horses are hind gut fermenters (which means they produce heat while digesting hay). So are adorable little field mice. Turns out both of us stay warm by eating roughage, and using bacteria in our gut to break it down. Making sure your horse has plenty of good quality roughage to eat on cold, windy (or rainy) days will do the most to make sure they stay warm and happy. If in doubt, throw an extra flake or two. 

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Horse care always comes back to simple is best. Keeping them warm is the same. Make sure they have a dry place to get out of the wind, and offer lots of hay. And maybe put a little on the side for the mouse in your life. I’m just saying.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you seen the latest videos over on my YouTube Channel? I just published one explaining how to treat thrush with copper sulfate crystals and a wax ring from the hardware store. Well, the humans did it, but I was involved! There’s tons of great how-to horse healthcare videos on my channel, as well as seminars, the Horse Girl series, and more. Give it a gander. It’s the best free veterinary resource around, except for our Podcast! Not to brag, but Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth is the biggest equine podcast in the world. Now that I mention that, I think I need to step my game up with my blog! Help a girl out and subscribe, would you?

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Equine Core Vaccines and What They’re For

Equine Core Vaccines and What They’re For

Dec 18, 2023 | Vaccines

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, it’s your favorite clinic mouse Whinny here! Everyone knows their horses need to be vaccinated, but not everyone knows what we’re vaccinating for, and why it’s so important to stay on schedule. The health and longevity of our equine friends is a priority for every responsible horse, pony and donkey owner, so today we’re going over the core vaccines.

Core vaccines, designed to protect against specific and potentially life-threatening diseases, play a crucial role in achieving this goal. There are five key core vaccines for horses: Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE), Western Equine Encephalitis (WEE), Tetanus, West Nile Virus (WNV), and Rabies.

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  • Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE) and Western Equine Encephalitis (WEE): EEE and WEE are viral diseases transmitted by mosquitoes that affect the central nervous system of horses. Symptoms of both diseases can start with a fever and lead to severe neurological symptoms, emphasizing the importance of vaccination. Neurologic symptoms can range from severe onset of stumbling, depression and seizures. Unfortunately in the case of EEE cases are often fatal. Vaccination against EEE and WEE is vital, especially in regions where mosquitoes are prevalent and should be boostered every 6 months after they have had their primary vaccination series as a foal.
  • Tetanus: Tetanus is caused by the bacterium commonly found in the soil, Clostridium tetani, and is contracted through wounds or injuries. Tetanus can result in muscle stiffness, difficulty swallowing, and even death. Tetanus vaccination is a cornerstone in equine healthcare, preventing this potentially fatal disease. Boosters are typically administered every 6 months.
  • West Nile Virus (WNV): WNV is a mosquito-borne viral infection affecting the central nervous system. Infected horses often have a fever and may exhibit neurological signs, such as incoordination, circling, muzzle twitching and others. Vaccination against WNV is recommended, particularly in areas where the virus is prevalent. Biannual boosters help maintain protection.
  • Rabies: Rabies is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system and is zoonotic. A disease being zoonotic means that it poses a risk to humans. Rabies symptoms can be varied, especially in equines and the disease is almost universally fatal. Unlike in dogs where rabies presents with excess salivation and aggression, in horses symptoms can be as non-descript as colic, lameness or depression. Rabies vaccination is essential for both equine and human health. Horses should receive regular yearly boosters as part of a comprehensive vaccination plan.

Whinny Wisdom: The EEE vaccine is nearly 100% effective at preventing the disease, but only for six months. If you have mosquitos for more than six months a year, your horse needs two boosters every year! Horses can get EEE seven months after their last vaccine, so there’s no grace period.

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Core vaccines are critical in protecting against preventable diseases in horses. By adhering to a well-rounded vaccination protocol on a regular schedule, horse owners contribute to the overall health and longevity of their equine companions. And take it from this mouse: it’s the cheapest and most effective thing you can do to protect your horse.

If you aren’t already signed up, you might want to consider the 2024 Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic Wellness Plan, which includes these core vaccines as well as Rhino and flu, depending on what your horse’s risk is, a dental float, Coggins, a Wellness exam, fecal egg count, and all emergency fees waived for the year! It’s a great program. In addition to bundling and saving, you also don’t have to remember when your horses are due for vaccines: we’ll track that for you and call to schedule when it’s time! Wellness Plans are the cheapest part of horse ownership, and arguably the most important. Set your horses up for a successful 2024! Click here to go to the Wellness Page of my website to sign up, or call our office today! 352-472-1620.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. I’m trying to get to 1,000 subscribers by the end of the year. If you haven’t done so already, help a little mouse out and subscribe to her blog! It’s super easy, you just scroll down to the big purple box and put your email address in. I promise I won’t email you anything besides my blog, and that will make sure you don’t miss out on any of my Wisdoms!

P.P.S. (Yes, it’s a two-fer! Get it?!) Are you looking for a stocking stuffer for your favorite horse person? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband series (3 books so far) is a great gift idea! And if you have a young person in your life who’s thinking about becoming an equine vet, you can support them with our wonderful handbook called How to Become an Equine Veterinarian: A Guide for Teens. It’s age appropriate for 12-25, and covers everything they need to do through middle school, high school, and college to become a great candidate for vet school. And as my humans say all the time around here, the world needs more equine vets! You can find book details and links to purchase over on the Books Page of my website, or just click on the image below. After you subscribe, of course!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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