Abnormal Behaviors in Horses

Abnormal Behaviors in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi, everyone! It’s Whinny, your favorite field mouse blogger. Today let’s talk about what makes horses happy. Horses are such majestic creatures. They are so big and strong, yet so gentle and graceful. They can run faster than any animal I know, and they can jump over obstacles like they are nothing. They are also very smart and loyal, and they have a special bond with humans. But do you know what makes horses happy? How do they live in the wild and in captivity? What do they eat and how do they play? What are some of the problems they face and how can we help them?

Abnormal Behaviors in Horses

First of all, let’s talk about what abnormal behaviors are. They are behaviors that horses do not normally do in the wild or in natural conditions. They are usually caused by stress, frustration, boredom, or pain. They can also affect the health and welfare of horses.

Some examples of abnormal behaviors are:

Stereotypies: These are repetitive and meaningless movements that horses do over and over again, such as biting on wood or metal, weaving (swaying from side to side), stall-walking, head-shaking, or wind-sucking (sucking air into the mouth, also called cribbing).

Redirected behaviors: These are behaviors that horses do to other objects or animals instead of their normal targets, such as wood-chewing, self-mutilation, aggression, or pica (eating dirt or other non-food items).

Feeding disorders: These are behaviors that affect the way horses eat or drink, such as coprophagy (eating feces), polydipsia (drinking too much water), or anorexia (not eating enough food).

These behaviors are not good for horses. They can cause physical injuries, dental problems, digestive issues, infections, weight loss, or even death. They can also make horses unhappy, anxious, depressed, or aggressive.

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What Causes Abnormal Behaviors in Horses?

Now that you know what abnormal behaviors are, let me tell you what causes them. According to my research, there are many factors that can influence the development and prevalence of abnormal behaviors in horses. Some of them are:

Type of housing: This is how horses are kept in captivity. Some horses live in stables with small individual stalls, where they have limited space and no contact with other horses. Other horses live in pastures or paddocks with larger areas and more social interactions.

Diet: This is what horses eat and drink. Some horses have access to fresh grass and hay all day long, which is good for their digestion and teeth. Other horses get fed concentrated meals rich in grains and sugars twice or three times a day, which can cause stomach ulcers and colic.

Social interactions: This is how horses communicate and relate with other horses and humans. Some horses have a lot of friends and family members that they can groom and play with. Other horses are isolated or separated from their herd mates or companions.

Exercise: This is how much physical activity horses get. Some horses have plenty of opportunities to run, jump, explore, or compete. Other horses have little or no exercise at all.

Climatic conditions: This is how the weather affects horses. Some horses live in regions with mild temperatures and seasons. Other horses live in areas with extreme heat or cold, rain or snow, wind or drought.

Biological factors: This is how the genes and hormones affect horses. Some horses are born with a higher or lower tendency to develop abnormal behaviors. Other horses are influenced by their age, sex, breed, or reproductive status.

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How can we Prevent or Treat Abnormal Behaviors in Horses?

Let’s talk about how we can prevent or treat abnormal behaviors in horses. My research pointed to some ways that we can improve the welfare and happiness of horses. Some of them are:

Providing more space and freedom: Giving horses more room to move around and express their natural behaviors. For example, we can use larger stalls, paddocks, or pastures, or allow horses to roam freely in natural environments.

Offering more roughage: Giving horses more fiber to keep their digestive system healthy and prevent boredom. For example, we can use hay nets, slow feeders, or always provide fresh grass and hay.

Increasing social contact: This means allowing horses to interact with other horses and humans in a positive way. For example, we can use group housing, mixed-sex herds, or companion animals, or provide regular grooming, training, or play sessions. This one is often missing from the lives of show horses.

Enhancing exercise and enrichment: Providing horses with more physical and mental stimulation to keep them fit and happy. For example, we can use different types of riding, driving, or groundwork exercises, or provide toys, puzzles, or music.

Adjusting climatic conditions: Protect horses from harsh weather conditions and providing them with comfort and safety. For example, we can use shelters, blankets, fans, or heaters, or avoid exposing horses to extreme temperatures or humidity.

Considering biological factors: Taking into account the individual characteristics and needs of each horse. For example, we can use genetic testing, hormonal therapy, or behavioral therapy, or avoid breeding or using horses that are prone to abnormal behaviors.

Wow! That was a lot of information! I hope you learned something new and interesting about horses and their behaviors. I know I did! Horses are amazing animals that deserve our respect and care. They have complex emotions and needs that we should try to understand and fulfill. They also have unique personalities and preferences that we should appreciate and respect.

If we want to have happy and healthy horses, we need to provide them with a suitable environment, a balanced diet, a social life, an active lifestyle, a comfortable climate, and a personalized approach. If you want help designing a program that meets all these needs, talk to my amazing docs. They will factor in your horse, your farm, and your horse’s lifestyle to maximize happiness.

That’s it for now! Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. There are a ton of great videos over on my YouTube Channel. Have you checked them out? Between the videos and the podcast the humans around here do, Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth (which is the biggest horse podcast in the world, if I may toot their horn!) you can get a free graduate degree in horse care just by watching and listening to my docs while you ride or clean stalls. So make sure you’re taking advantage of all these resources!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Feline Stress: Managing Emotional Wellbeing in Cats

Feline Stress: Managing Emotional Wellbeing in Cats

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny, your favorite clinic mouse is here today to spin a yarn about the tantalizing world of emotional well-being for cats. Now, when you’re a mouse navigating a clinic filled with these enigmatic feline creatures, you learn a thing or two about their secrets to happiness. And of course, I learned almost all of what I know from the late, great Tony. He’ll forever be remembered here at Springhill Equine. This blog and all my others are dedicated to him. So, give extra snuggles to your favorite feline friend, because we’re about to embark on a meow-gical journey into the world of cat emotional wellness.

Safe Havens and Cat Castles: Creating Stress-Free Sanctuaries

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

One secret to maintaining your cats’ mental harmony lies in providing safe spaces. Whether it’s a towering cat tree or a cozy escape room, these spaces are essential for those moments when your cat needs some time to recharge. It’s a bit like having your own mouse hole to escape to when things get too hairy. These should be individualized to each feline; some prefer cave-like hideaways while others prefer freedom in the tree-dom.

Now, I must mention the importance of vertical territory. Most cats adore high perches, and these “cat castles” not only fulfill their inner jungle-cat fantasies but also serve as a refuge away from other household pets (pronounced “dogs and kids”). It’s similar to a watchtower in the midst of a bustling kingdom. Just like mice require hidey-holes, cats require cat trees of some variety. In a paw-fect world, the vertical spaces create a super highway throughout the home, giving the cat the option to leave an altercation with a dog, another cat, or a vacuum cleaner and migrate to another part of the household.

I know the world is not always perfect—if it was I’d have a lot more cheese than I do right now—so a more obtainable goal might be to have vertical territory for cats in any dead ends or narrow alleyways in the home.  

The Litter Box Labyrinth: Keeping Stress at Bay

Ah, the mystical litter box, a place of solitude and contemplation for our feline friends. It’s vital to have an ample number of these for your fur babies. Why, you ask? Well, it’s like having a choice of restrooms in a giant labyrinth. More boxes mean less stress because no cat likes to wait in line for the loo. The rule of paw is this: have one more litter box location than the number of litter box users. So you can’t just have three boxes next to each other in the garage for your two kitties because that would be only one sanitation station. This also means your only child cat gets their very own two litter box locations. Five cats? Six litter box locations. Are you picking up what I’m putting down?

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Whinny’s Wisdom: Always have one more litter box location than the number of litter box users in the home.

 Now, remember, my fellow mouse-eyed friends, the litter box isn’t just for business. Cats are incredibly finicky about cleanliness, and a dirty box is like a porta-potty at a beer and brats festival (it starts out good, but rapidly turns into a disaster). Keep it clean and pristine to keep your cat’s mood as fresh as a daisy. Scoop out those boxes at least once per day, though some cats require twice.

And of course, just like cats have individualized needs for their safe havens, some have individualized needs for their litter. If your cat starts getting pickier about their litter box, stops using it as regularly, or a new cat won’t use it at all, I recommend a “Litter Box Buffet” to determine the type of box and litter that cat prefers. Set up a variety of types of boxes and litters all in a line—separate locations don’t matter in this particular experiment—and pay attention to which strikes your feline’s fancy. Then, replace the relevant boxes with the preferred choice.

Feliway: The Pharaoh of Pharaoh-Mones

My dear readers, there’s one hidden treasure I must bring to your attention before we part: Feliway. This over-the-counter pheromone product is like the grand protector of your cat’s emotional well-being. It mimics the pheromones cats release from their cheek glands, essentially marking whatever they rub on as “safe.”

It’s like an invisible fortress that tells your cat, “Hey, this place is the bee’s knees, no need to stress.” You can use it during stressful times like vet visits, and even for everyday happiness in your cat’s favorite corners. It’s like the soothing scent of a cheese wheel to a mouse – simply irresistible. Feliway comes in a collar, a spray, and a room plug in. The collar and room plug in each last for about a month at a time. You can use all three, or pick one to two. If the issue is room specific, the plug in and maybe the spray are your best bets. If the issue is more internalized to that cat, definitely go with the collar, and maybe use the spray on a few choice things like their bed or scratch post.

When the Basics Won’t Cut It—Controlling Stress at the Vet

Stressors like vet visits and dreaded car rides can turn even the proudest of cats into frazzled furballs. But fret not; we have some tricks up our tails to help our feline friends find their inner zen. Feliway can definitely work it’s magic here—spraying down the carrier or a towel prior to take off can help remind kitties that they are still safe. Arriving to your appointment on time or just a few minutes early and giving your vet the heads up that your kitty is a bit stressed can help the staff get you into a quiet room soon to avoid nosy canines in the waiting area. Skipping breakfast that morning can help your cat be more willing to take goodies offered during the exam like Temptations treats or Churu.

For those cataclysmic cats that can’t calm despite all of the above, there’s a purr-fect solution – Gabapentin. This prescription medication can help decrease anxiety and stress, allowing our feline friends to travel or undergo necessary check-ups with much less ado. It’s like a little mood booster for those who get jittery about leaving their cozy cat-castle. Talk to your veterinarian about picking up some Gabapentin to give prior to the vet visit. Typically, we will have you give a dose the night before the big event, and then the morning of. This medication can make a few kitties wobbly on their feet, but fear not, it is very safe and it helps keep our vet team safe while we address all your kitty’s health needs.

Feline Stress Complications: Urinary Blockage

Let me remind you of a grave concern – the specter of urinary blockage. This life-threatening complication often stalks young to middle-aged, neutered male, overweight cats. Stress can play a major role in its development, hence this terrifying tangent.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

You see, when cats are stressed, they often drink less water, and this and some other factors can lead their bodies to form crystals or stones in their urinary tracts, leading to blockages. A urinary blockage in any animal is a life-threatening situation that requires immediate veterinary attention. Preventing stress with the measures we’ve discussed can be a key factor in keeping these issues at bay. It’s like protecting your castle from a mouse invasion – stress is the enemy!

A Final Paws for Thought

As we conclude this meow-gical journey into the enchanting realm of cat emotional well-being, I hope you’ve gained some insights into the delicate world of our whiskered friends. Remember, they have their quirks and eccentricities, but beneath that fur and those whiskers, they have a heart that purrs for love, comfort, and serenity.

So, give your furball plenty of safe spaces, cherish your Feliway, and create a stress-free haven for your four-legged friend. And always remember, stress is a mouse’s greatest enemy, just as it can be for your beloved feline.

Until next week, keep your tails high and your spirits higher!

~ Whinny

P.S. In case you missed the news, Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is out! You can scroll down just a bit to the green banner and click on it to go to the Books page on my website and check it out. And while you’re scrolling down, pause at the purple box and subscribe to this blog, if you haven’t already! You’ll get it a day or two before everyone else, and it will show up right in your email! As Tony used to say: you’re welcome!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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How Vets Evaluate Lameness in Horses

How Vets Evaluate Lameness in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi everyone, Whinny here! In the previous installment of my Lameness Series, we talked about what you might notice if your horse is lame and needs a visit with one of my Springhill vets. This week, we’re going to talk about what happens once you make that appointment! There are several parts to a lameness exam that help my vet figure out the problem, and you might see her doing some or all of these things to check out your horse. Some types of lameness are more obvious and won’t require all the steps, but for a more subtle lameness, each of them can be a piece in the puzzle to find the source of the problem.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Physical Exam

My vet will do an exam to look and feel for abnormalities in the horse’s body. She will look at his conformation and muscle symmetry. She will check out his posture to see if he stands squarely, since abnormal stance can give clues to the areas of discomfort. His hooves and shoes will also be evaluated carefully – I’m sure you have heard the saying “No hoof, no horse” – the angles and health of the hooves are critically important to soundness. My vet will feel your horse’s limbs for heat or swelling and evaluate his tendons for thickening or pain. She’ll feel the limb pulses to look for areas of inflammation. The joints will be palpated for swelling and taken through their range of motion. The exam will often include an evaluation of the back muscles for tension or sensitivity, especially with a hind end lameness.

 Hoof Testers

You may see my vets use a big metal instrument to squeeze your horse’s hoof. That instrument is called a hoof tester and it checks for sensitivity when pressure is applied to certain areas of the hoof. My vet’s knowledge of the anatomy inside the hoof helps her to determine what pain in a certain spot means. Sensitivity in one area may indicate laminitis, whereas another spot may signify a problem with the navicular bone. Hooftesters can also be used to locate the position of a hoof abscess so my vet can open it up to drain.

Flexion Tests

You may see my vet holding up your horse’s leg for 30 or 45 seconds and then asking him to immediately trot off – that’s a flexion test. The purpose of a flexion test is to accentuate pain that may be coming from a joint, in order to localize the part of the leg that is bothering your horse or to look for a subtle problem that isn’t immediately apparent. Specific joints are flexed in turn to check the response to that area. If your horse has an arthritic hock, for example, flexing the hock may make him trot off more lame than he was without the flexion. That can help my vet determine the part of the leg that needs treatment. Flexion tests aren’t always a black or white answer, but they can be a useful puzzle piece in some cases. My vet uses her experience to know the appropriate position, time, and pressure for a flexion test, since it’s possible to get an inaccurate assessment if you flex the joint too hard or for too long. It’s also useful for her to flex the same joint on both the left and right sides to compare how the horse responds.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Nerve or Joint Blocks

Have you ever gone to the dentist and had a shot to make your tooth numb for a filling? That’s basically the same thing as a nerve block my vet may use during a lameness exam. When my vet “blocks out” an area on your horse’s leg, she is temporarily numbing it to see if that region is the source of the pain. If the correct spot is numbed, your horse won’t look lame anymore since he won’t feel the pain. Unless there is an obvious abnormal finding on her physical exam, my vet will inject a numbing agent into specific anatomical areas until she finds the one that takes away the lameness. Nerve blocks are an injection to directly numb a nerve and the area it supplies feeling to, while joint blocks will inject the numbing agent right into a joint, which is a sterile procedure. Blocks only lasts a couple of hours though, so don’t confuse them for a permanent treatment, they are just a way of finding where the problem is so it can receive the appropriate therapy.

Imaging

Once my vet has determined which leg your horse is sore on and which part of the leg is the problem, she will often recommend imaging to get a look at what’s going on inside. This is most often an X-ray (radiograph) or ultrasound. Generally speaking, X-rays look at bone and ultrasound looks at soft tissues such as tendons.

Occasionally, advanced imaging such as CT or MRI is needed, but the majority of cases can be diagnosed with the imaging equipment my vet carries in her truck. Once a specific diagnosis is made, she can recommend the best treatment to get your horse sound and back doing those things you want to do with him!

If your horse has something going on, make sure to give my team here at Springhill Equine a call to schedule a lameness evaluation. They are amazing at what they do!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Are you missing out? In addition to my amazing blog, this website also has the biggest equine podcast in the world, a huge video library filled with how-to’s and seminars, a series of best-selling books, and direct access to some of the best equine veterinarians on the planet! I’m just a small (pun intended!) part of a fabulous team of equine professionals here at Springhill, and I want to make sure you are taking advantage of everything we have to offer. And most of it is free! So take a minute to explore the rest of the website while you’re here. I promise you’ll find something you can use to make the world a better place for your horse.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Toxic Plants and Horses

Toxic Plants and Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! Horses can be exposed to and graze on plants that can be harmful or even fatal. More often than not, horses will choose good quality grass or hay over a toxic weed or plant, especially if they have a good mouse friend to keep them out of trouble. However, over grazed pastures and the natural environment of Florida can predispose horses to be exposed to some toxic plants. In this blog post, we’ll explore several poisonous plants commonly encountered by horses: Red Maple, Acorns, Nightshade, Pokeweed, Creeping Indigo, and Fireweed. Understanding these plants and their potential dangers is critical for ensuring the well-being of our equine friends.

Red Maple (Acer rubrum)

   Red maple leaves, especially when wilted, contain a toxin called gallic acid, which attacks red blood cells. Ingestion of even a small amount of these leaves can lead to hemolytic anemia, methemoglobinemia, and potentially death in horses. Symptoms may include lethargy, dark urine, blue colored mucous membranes, jaundice, and colic.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Immediate treatment is crucial, including intravenous fluids, and supportive care.

Nightshade (Solanum spp.)

  Nightshade plants, known for their bell-shaped flowers and berries, contain the toxic alkaloid, atropine. Our savvy readers may be familiar with atropine as a topical used in treating eye conditions to dilate the pupil in certain situations. Ingestion can cause dilated pupils, nervousness, and irregular heartbeat. Luckily, the plant is bitter and not often eaten if there’s other food available.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Promptly diagnose and treat nightshade poisoning to minimize symptoms and complications.

Acorns (Quercus spp.)

   Acorns from oak trees are toxic to horses, primarily due to the presence of tannins. Ingesting acorns can lead to gastrointestinal upset, colic, and kidney damage. Chronic exposure may result in metabolic issues and laminitis.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Managing pastures to minimize exposure and providing ample forage alternatives can help prevent acorn ingestion.

Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana)

   Pokeweed is a significant concern for horses, as all parts of the plant are toxic and contain saponins, oxalates, and phytolacine. It can lead to severe gastrointestinal issues, including colic and diarrhea.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Early intervention is key, and treatment may include fluid therapy and medications to manage symptoms.

 Creeping Indigo (Indigofera spicata)

    Creeping indigo poses a serious threat due to its palatability to horses. Horses that consume this plant may experience a wide range of symptoms that could include corneal edema, mucosal ulcerations or neurologic signs that can range from dull attitude to narcoleptic-like behavior.

 Whinny’s Wisdom: Immediate veterinary attention is necessary to address neurological symptoms and provide supportive care. Heavy trafficked or overgrazed areas can perpetuate the weed.

 Fireweed (Urtica chamaedroides)

  Fireweed, also known as Heartleaf Nettle, contains stinging hairs that can irritate the skin and mucous membranes of horses. Ingestion can lead to lethargy or difficulty swallowing. More commonly, horses are seen due to urticaria, or hives, from skin contact. This plant can cause severe discomfort to the skin and horses may appear to have colic or neurologic signs.

 Whinny’s Wisdom: Address skin irritation promptly with appropriate care and remove fireweed from pastures if it is identified. It can often be found in areas with sparse grass growth, like feeding areas or near fence lines.

Conclusion

As veterinarians, it’s my docs’ responsibility to educate horse owners about the dangers of toxic plants like Red Maple, Acorns, Nightshade, Pokeweed, Creeping Indigo, and Fireweed. Encourage pasture management practices that minimize exposure to these plants and emphasize the importance of early intervention in cases of plant poisoning. By working together, we can ensure the health and safety of our equine patients and provide them with the best possible care.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you subscribed to this blog? Don’t rely on Facebook to let you know it’s out! If you’ll scroll down a bit more to the big purple box and give me your email address, I’ll send the blog right to you, and a day before it goes out to everyone else! Don’t take a chance on missing out on my mousy wisdom!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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What Does Lameness Look Like?

What Does Lameness Look Like?

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hi everyone, Whinny here! It’s starting to cool off a teeny bit here in Florida, and a lot of you are gearing up for the riding season! We don’t want anything to get in the way of the fun stuff you’re planning with your horse this Autumn. My Springhill Equine vets love to keep your horse feeling good and performing up to his potential, no matter whether you’re a show jumper, reiner, trail rider, or anything in between!

Lameness evaluation and treatment is one of the most common things they work on. But the first step is for you to recognize the start of an issue at home, so let’s talk about what to look for. Some lameness is really obvious, like if your horse is limping badly on one foot, but a lot of the time it’s much more subtle! You may just notice a change in his performance, such as trouble making tight turns around the barrel, difficulty picking up one canter lead, or acting cranky out on the trails. Once you notice something is amiss, here’s what my vets will look for when they’re evaluating your horse move.

What does lameness look like?

If you drive by my clinic, you will often see horses being trotted up and down the grass outside the clinic while my vets watch them. This is the Springhill technicians’ favorite part of the day. They just love the healthy exercise, especially at noon in July and August! 

So what does it look like when a horse is lame? It can be an obvious limp in a forelimb lameness. Your horse may not want to bear weight on the leg or may have a pronounced “head bob” when he walks or trots. For a forelimb lameness, think “down on sound” – meaning the head bobs downwards when the sound (non-lame) leg hits the ground. So, if the head bobs down when the left front foot hits the ground, the lameness is on the right front leg. For a mild lameness, there may not be a super obvious head bob, especially when he’s moving on a straight line. My vets will also listen to the sound of his footfalls – a lame horse will land softer on the foot that hurts, as he shifts his weight to avoid pain. If both forelimbs hurt equally, you might not see a head bob, but your horse could look stiff when he’s moving, or rock his weight back onto his hind end to take weight off the front.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hindlimb lameness is evaluated differently than forelimb lameness. It may look like a “hip hike”, toe dragging, or a shortened stride on the lame hindlimb. It can also just manifest as problems picking up or keeping the canter leads, lack of impulsion, or even “crow hopping” or bucking.  Don’t worry if you aren’t sure, hindlimb lameness can be tricky to see – that’s what my vets are for. If you’re feeling like something doesn’t seem right, just call us!

Some lameness is more subtle than others. If your horse is quite sore, my vets may just need to see him walk and may not need him to trot. For most lameness cases though, the horse is evaluated at the trot, because the symmetrical nature of the normal trot gait makes abnormalities more apparent. Sometimes my vet will ask to see a horse canter to check out how the hind end moves. She’ll want to see the horse move on a straight line and may want to see him moving in a circle (such as on a longe line) to see how positioning his limbs on the inside or outside of the circle will affect his lameness. Some lameness is only noticeable when the horse is turning. The ground surface makes a difference too – your horse may look fine on grass or soft sand but be sore when the ground is harder. That’s typical of a hoof problem or arthritis. A soft tissue injury like tendinitis may be more painful on deep, soft footing. So my vet may ask her tech to jog your horse on an asphalt surface instead of the grass to check out the difference.

Here’s one thing I want you to understand – horses don’t lie about lameness. Their brains don’t work that way. Your horse isn’t “faking” a lameness when you ride him just because he doesn’t look as lame when you see him cantering in the field. He isn’t capable of that. Some things, like the additional weight of carrying a rider, or the specific motions he is asked to do under saddle, just make a lameness more apparent. So, if you notice lameness when you ride, just schedule a lameness exam with my vets instead of thinking your horse is being tricksy.

In my next blog on the lameness exam, we’ll talk about the steps my Springhill vets take to determine what’s hurting your horse, and how to help him!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Did you know the humans here at Springhill Equine have the biggest, most popular equine veterinary podcast in the world? It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. Each episode (and there are over 130 and counting) covers a horse-health topic and is directed at horse owners so they can learn how to take the best care of their horses. You can check it out right over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Fall is in the Air—and the Pasture

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! As fall ushers in cooler temperatures and changing pastures, horse owners are met with the promise of crisp, cool air and the joys of fall riding. But as the seasons change, so too should your horse’s diet. Fall is a critical time to ensure your equine companion’s management is optimized for health. Remember, proper nutrition has almost nothing to do with supplements and almost everything to do with the diet we feed—including pasture. Diet is also what most impacts the pillars on which horse health stands: their hooves!

Being a resident of Springhill Equine’s pastures, I can tell you that Florida foliage does not change as much as it would up north (I have cousins living in a barn in Wisconsin). Things stay mostly green here and we don’t often have to worry about frost or *shudder* snow. But, this mouse knows the only constant in life is change, so here are some tips and tricks to managing that change for your horses (with a bonus snack idea at the end!)

Pasture Upkeep

As fall approaches, the quality of your horse’s pasture may change. Grasses tend to mature, becoming less lush and lower in nutritional value. It’s essential to regularly assess the state of your pasture to ensure it can still provide adequate nutrition for your horses. Implementing pasture rotation is an excellent strategy to manage fall grazing. By dividing your total pasture into large sections and rotating your horses between them, you allow the grass in one area to recover while your horses graze in another. This practice helps maintain better pasture quality throughout the season.

If you have other animals such as cattle or goats, you can rotate them through after the horses to help clean up parasites. In cases where your pasture quality decreases significantly, or if you have limited access to pasture, you may need to supplement your horse’s diet with additional forage. High-quality hay is an excellent option and provides the necessary fiber, vitamins, and minerals your horse needs.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Calorie Management

It’s always essential to monitor your horse’s weight and adjust their diet accordingly. Consult with your veterinarian or equine nutritionist to determine if additional forage or dietary changes are needed. Check the back of the bag of any of your horse feeds for contact information for their nutrition consultants. These awesome humans are a drastically underutilized resource! For some of our beloved ponies that get fat on air, fall can be a time of relaxation for owners as their little gremlins can’t get quite as many calories. But, for the senior thoroughbred, fall may mean an increase in hay or concentrated feeds to keep those ribs covered!

Hydration

As temperatures drop, horses may drink less water. Ensure they have access to clean, fresh water at all times to prevent dehydration. Consider adding a heated water source to prevent water from freezing in colder regions. We all love our fall beverages (PSL anyone?), why don’t you try adding a bit of grain or molasses to one of your horses’ water buckets to encourage them to drink? Some creative humans even offer “water buffets” to their horses—different buckets with different mix-ins: plain, grain, molasses, apple juice, carrot juice, salt, Gatorade, etc. I notice I haven’t been offered a fondue buffet yet…

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Whinny’s Wisdom: Moderation in all things! ANY change to your horse’s diet or management should be made gradually.

 Proper pasture management and hydration are crucial components of fall horse care. By monitoring your pasture, adjusting your horse’s diet as needed, and ensuring they have consistent access to clean, unfrozen water, you can help your equine companions stay healthy and comfortable throughout the autumn season. Regular communication with your veterinarian can provide further guidance tailored to your horse’s specific needs. 

Alright, now that we’ve gotten the blog done, here’s the bonus content I promised–surprise, it’s a recipe blog! You can call me Chef Whinny, now!

Here’s a simple recipe for homemade pumpkin horse treats:

Pumpkin Horse Treats

Ingredients:

– 2 cups of rolled oats

– 1 cup of canned pumpkin puree (make sure it’s pure pumpkin without added sugar or spices)

– 1/4 cup of unsweetened applesauce

– 1/4 cup of molasses

– 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground nutmeg

– 1/2 teaspoon of ground ginger

– 1/2 teaspoon of salt

Instructions:

  1. Preheat the Oven: Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
  1. Mix Dry Ingredients: In a large mixing bowl, combine the rolled oats, ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, ground ginger, and salt. Mix them well to distribute the spices evenly throughout the oats.
  1. Add Wet Ingredients: Add the canned pumpkin puree, unsweetened applesauce, and molasses to the dry ingredients. Mix everything together until you have a sticky dough-like consistency. You can use a wooden spoon or your hands to do this.
  1. Shape the Treats: Take small portions of the dough and roll them into bite-sized balls or shape them into fun cookie-cutter shapes using horse-themed cookie cutters if you have them. Place the treats on the prepared baking sheet, leaving some space between each.
  1. Bake: Bake the treats in the preheated oven for about 15-20 minutes or until they are firm and slightly browned on the edges. Keep an eye on them to prevent overcooking.
  1. Cool: Once baked, remove the treats from the oven and let them cool completely on a wire rack. They will firm up as they cool.
  1. Store: Store the pumpkin horse treats in an airtight container. They can be kept at room temperature for a few days or in the refrigerator for longer shelf life.

These homemade pumpkin horse treats are a delicious and nutritious way to spoil your equine friend during the fall season. Remember to feed them in moderation, as treats should be a supplement to your horse’s regular diet. Enjoy making and sharing these tasty treats with your horse, and make sure to leave some nice crumbles for your friendly clinic mouse!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Did you know the humans here at Springhill Equine have the biggest, most popular equine veterinary podcast in the world? It’s called Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth. Each episode (and there are over 130 and counting) covers a horse-health topic and is directed at horse owners so they can learn how to take the best care of their horses. You can check it out right over on the Podcast Page of my website, or subscribe on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

The Very Basics of Saddle Fit

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! I’m going to start with: I know what you’re thinking – “What does a little mouse like Whinny know about saddles and horses?” Well, let me tell you, I’ve been scurrying around these parts long enough to pick up a thing or two, and today, I’m going to let you in on a little secret – saddle fit for horses!

You see, saddle fit is a lot like finding the perfect pair of jeans. You wouldn’t want to wear pants that are too tight or too loose, right? Well, horses feel the same way about their saddles. If a saddle doesn’t fit them just right, it can cause all sorts of problems. So, grab your lassos and saddle up, because we’re going on a wild ride through the world of saddle fit.

The Basics of Saddle Fit

First things first, let’s talk about the basics of saddle fit. A saddle is like a cozy chair for our horsey pals, and just like us, they want it to be comfy. There are a few key things to consider when it comes to saddle fit:

  1. The Width of the Saddle Tree: The saddle tree is the frame that sits on a horse’s back. It needs to be the right width to match the shape of the horse’s back. If it’s too narrow, it can pinch and cause discomfort. If it’s too wide, it might wobble and make the horse feel like it’s carrying a seesaw. 
  2. The Length of the Saddle: The saddle’s length should match the horse’s back, too. If it’s too long, it can dig into the horse’s loins, and if it’s too short, it might not distribute the rider’s weight properly.
  3. The Gullet Clearance: The gullet is the space under the saddle that gives room for the horse’s spine. It should have enough clearance so it doesn’t press down on the horse’s back. Think of it like a limbo dance – the saddle has to clear that bar!

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Those first three are nearly impossible to fix with pads or shims or anything else. They are the basic framework of the saddle.

  1. Even Pressure:The saddle should distribute the rider’s weight evenly across the horse’s back. If there are pressure points or sore spots, it’s like having a pebble in your boot – mighty uncomfortable!
  2. Balance: Just like a rider needs to balance in the saddle, the saddle itself should sit evenly on the horse’s back. If it’s tilted or crooked, it can cause all sorts of trouble for the rider and the horse.

How to Tell if the Saddle Fits

Now that we’ve covered the basics of saddle fit, let’s dive deeper into how to determine if a saddle is a good fit for your four-legged friend. Saddle fit is crucial for your horse’s comfort and well-being, so let’s be thorough:

  1. The Pinch Test: Run your fingers along the sides of the saddle tree. If it feels like it’s pinching or digging into the horse’s back, it’s time to rethink that saddle. Remember, the saddle should provide gentle contact without causing discomfort or pressure points.
  1. The Gullet Check: Look underneath the saddle – is there enough clearance for the horse’s spine? You don’t want it rubbing or pressing on that sensitive area. Ideally, there should be about two to three fingers’ width of space between the saddle and the horse’s spine to ensure proper clearance.
  1. The Sore Spot Scan: After a ride, thoroughly examine your horse’s back for any sore spots or rub marks. Pay close attention to areas where the saddle’s panels make contact with the horse’s back. Sore spots may indicate that the saddle is not distributing pressure evenly, and adjustments or a different saddle may be necessary.
  1. The Wobble Test: When you’re in the saddle, check if it wobbles or rocks back and forth. A stable saddle is essential for the rider’s balance and the horse’s comfort. An unstable saddle can create an unsettling ride experience and lead to discomfort or injury for both rider and horse.
  1. The Balance Test: Get a friend to watch you ride. If that saddle looks tilted or crooked, it’s time for some saddle shopping! An imbalanced saddle can cause the rider to sit unevenly and put uneven pressure on the horse’s back. A well-balanced saddle helps maintain a healthy and comfortable riding posture.
  1. Observe Your Horse’s Behavior: Pay attention to your horse’s behavior while riding. Signs of saddle discomfort may include tail swishing, head tossing, resistance to being saddled, or reluctance to move freely. A horse that’s constantly trying to communicate discomfort is telling you it’s time to reevaluate the saddle fit.
  1. Consult a Professional: When in doubt, seek the guidance of a professional saddle fitter or a knowledgeable equine veterinarian. These experts can assess saddle fit more comprehensively, considering factors such as your horse’s conformation, muscle development, and any unique needs.

  2. Regularly Reassess: A horse’s shape can change over time due to factors like age, training, and muscle development. It’s essential to regularly reassess saddle fit to ensure that it continues to provide comfort and performance benefits for both rider and horse.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    By following these detailed steps and continuously monitoring your horse’s well-being, you can ensure that your saddle fits correctly and promotes the health, comfort, and happiness of your equine companion. Remember, a happy horse makes for a happy rider, and together, you’ll be ready to conquer any riding adventure that comes your way!

    So, next time you’re gearing up for a ride, take a close look at that saddle. Make sure it’s snug as a mouse in a hay pile, and you’ll be off to the races in no time. 

    Until next week,

    ~Whinny

    P.S. Have you seen the latest Horse Girl Goes to the Vet video over on my YouTube Channel? There’s a lot of great content there, with more being added all the time. It’s a great free resource filled with high-quality horse health information, so don’t miss out!

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Adding a New Horse to your Herd

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hey everybody, Whinny here! As a little mouse, observing the barnyard dynamics from my tiny vantage point, I couldn’t help but be intrigued when a new horse arrived in the neighborhood. The bustling barnyard is like a world unto itself, filled with its own set of rules and hierarchies. Here’s my take on the tale of the new horse’s arrival.

    Planning for the Newcomer

    Even from my mouse-sized perspective, I’ve heard humans say that horses are like potato chips – you can’t have just one. But before you bring in that new four-legged addition, a little planning can go a long way. 

    The first step is to designate a quarantine area. Now, if your barn is like my quiet little corner of the barnyard, this may not be a big deal. “Boring” farms, in our terms, are those where horses rarely come and go, or if they do, it’s for short trips like a peaceful trail ride. These outings have minimal exposure to contagious diseases. In such cases, a 7-day quarantine period is usually sufficient. The new horse should be kept in a stall or paddock with no nose-to-nose contact with other horses.

    However, if your farm sees more traffic or if the new horse is coming from a bustling place, it’s definitely time to consult your trusted veterinarians for guidance. This requires a bit more planning on your part!

    The Early Days of Introduction

    Once the quarantine period is over, the real fun begins – introducing the new horse to the established herd. But, let me tell you, it’s not always a graceful ballet; it can be as unpredictable as a cat-mouse meeting. While some, like Tony and me, might establish a harmonious working relationship, that’s not the norm. Be prepared for some discontent among the equine ranks! Expect your horse’s version of a firm “hello” – ears pinned back, maybe even a squeal. It’s all part of their natural behavior. 

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    To keep these introductions as smooth as possible, keep things low-key. Consider moving the new horse into a stall next to one of the current residents. Spend time together near the others, but maintain protective barriers like stall walls between them. Have a halter and lead rope on hand, just in case. The goal is a stress-free greeting for everyone involved. Keep these initial meetings short but allow both horses to go through the process. After all, a bit of posturing and mild confrontations are all part of the horse social scene.

    Integration into the Herd

    Now, let’s talk horse hierarchies. These become incredibly important during the integration phase. In every herd, there are leaders and followers. Figuring out who’s who can make the whole process smoother. While these are general rules, it’s usually best to avoid putting two dominant horses together; that often leads to a lot of power struggles. Most of these conflicts involve some posturing – ears pinned back, hindquarters turned toward another, and minor shoving matches. However, things can escalate, and that’s when injuries become a real concern.

    Introducing your new horse to one horse at a time, then slowly adding others, can make the dominance process easier to manage. It’s typically best to choose a companion that’s the opposite in terms of dominance, but again, it’s essential to consult with the experts for guidance. Besides introducing one horse at a time, ensuring ample space for everyone to establish their roles is also helpful. Throwing 15 horses together in a tiny field is a recipe for trouble, even for a tiny mouse like me.

    Sometimes, getting along isn’t easy, but with careful planning and consideration, everyone can coexist happily, and injuries can be avoided. It’s all about understanding the intricacies of the horse world and facilitating a smooth transition for the new arrival. My docs are always happy to talk you through it if you run into a problem, just give us a call.

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news?  Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is out! You can grab your ebook, paperback or hardcover today, or get a signed copy at our annual Open House on Sept. 30th here at the Clinic. Or you can get one online now and have it signed at Open House. Lots of options!! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Anhidrosis aka Non-Sweaters

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Hi everyone, Whinny here! Here in Florida, it’s been brutally hot lately! I heard my Springhill docs saying it’s even worse than a usual summer. It’s been hard on the horses too – we’ve had a bunch of horses in our area stop sweating, which the docs say is a pretty big problem. They actually want them to get gross and sweaty to stay healthy! There’s a fancy name for when they don’t sweat well enough – Anhidrosis.

    Normal Sweating

    It’s really important for a horse to sweat so it can keep his internal organs at a normal temperature even when he’s working hard or it’s hot outside. Horses have a lot of sweat glands in their skin, and many of them are a different type than the ones you humans have. Have you noticed that when your horse sweats, it’s often white and frothy looking? That’s because they have something called apocrine sweat glands that make sweat rich in proteins and lipids that causes them to look “lathered up”. Sweat also contains a lot of water and electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and chloride. As the water evaporates off your horse’s body, it cools him down, transferring the heat into the air. A horse’s normal body temperature is from 98.5 to 100.5 Fahrenheit. When he’s exercising, it may be elevated, but will return to normal quickly at rest.

    What’s the Deal with Non-Sweaters?

    When your horse has a decreased ability to sweat like he should in response to an increased body temperature, it’s called anhidrosis. Because sweating is the horse’s primary way of cooling himself, if he doesn’t sweat appropriately it can cause him to get overheated, not perform well, or even develop dangerous heat stroke. Horses lose 65-70% of body heat through their sweat, so if they’re unable to do that, it’s a pretty big deal. Anhidrosis can have a significant effect on your horse’s ability to be ridden and perform or even just function as a pasture pet.

    During hot weather or hard exercise, a horse with anhidrosis won’t sweat as much as he should or might not sweat at all. He can have patchy sweat (like only under the saddle pad), a little sweat, or no sweat. He might appear to be working much harder than he should be or breathing heavily to try to cool off, even after he’s done working or just while standing around.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Anhidrosis is a problem mainly in hot and humid, tropical kind of places, like my dear home state of Florida and other states around it. This is especially a problem when the temperatures stay high for long periods of time, and don’t drop down much at night, like the perma-summer we seem to have here in Florida. Lucky us! It’s not as common in cooler, more temperate climates, but it can happen there too, especially in heat waves. Making matters worse, when the humidity is high, the sweat is even less able to evaporate into the already water-saturated air, so it decreases how effectively sweat can cool the horse.

    It’s not known exactly why or how anhidrosis happens, but it’s thought that the sweat glands get over-stimulated and so they start to work less well. The onset can be sudden or more gradual. It can happen to horses that are born in a hot climate as well as horses that are new to it. So being from Florida doesn’t protect them, unfortunately. Between 2-6% of horses are estimated to have anhidrosis. No links to specific breeds, ages, colors, or sex have been identifiedthe risk is equal for all horses.

    Chronic anhidrosis has been linked to atrophy (degeneration) of the sweat glands, leading to a permanent loss of the glands’ ability to produce sweat. Researchers are looking into associations with decreased excretion of chloride through the urinary system and in sweat glands, but this is still being investigated.

    Recognizing and Diagnosing Anhidrosis

    Because some horses with anhidrosis still sweat a bit, it can be tricky to recognize if your horse is affected. Some areas of the body can continue to sweat, but not enough to cool the horse sufficiently. For example, a horse with anhidrosis might continue to sweat under his mane or saddle pad.  You may notice first that your horse doesn’t perform well in hot weather. He may take longer than normal to recover after exercise or breathe heavily even when standing in the shade. He may have a higher-than-normal pulse or temperature.

    Here are some things to watch for:

    • Lack of sweat, or a small amount of sweat, in situations when other horses are sweating a lot
    • Coat is dry and clean to the touch
    • Fast or labored breathing, especially when standing around not working
    • Flared nostrils
    • Low energy or fatigue
    • Slow ability to cool down after exercise
    • Increased body temperature (especially serious when it’s higher than 104)
    • Seeking and remaining in the shade (especially if food is elsewhere)
    • Sometimes, eating or drinking less than normal
    • In chronic cases dry, itchy or flaky skin. Sometimes there is hair loss.

    My docs can often diagnose a horse based on their physical exam and the signs your horse is showing. If the diagnosis isn’t certain, there is a test they can do to check the amount of sweat your horse is able to produce. For this test, my doc injects a small amount of a medication called terbutaline into the horse’s skin to elicit sweating in that spot. That tests the amount of sweat your horse can produce compared to a normal horse.

    Treatment

    So if your horse is a non-sweater, what to do? Well sure, if you move your horse to a cooler climate where hot, humid weather is less likely, they will certainly be more comfortable. Many horses will start sweating again when they are in a cooler environment, and that is the only surefire approach. But, it may not be a realistic option for many people and horses.

    One of the simplest things to try is an electrolyte supplement, which is a good idea in the summer even if your horse sweats normally. Several remedies that have been tried over the years, with variable success, including commercial supplements such as One AC or Platinum Refresh, and even dark beer such as Guinness. Most of them are fairly safe to try, though they may or may not work. At Springhill Equine, we often use a combination of acupuncture and Chinese herbal therapy and find that can be quite successful in some cases.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Here are some other ways to keep a non-sweater more comfortable:

    • Keep him in a stall or shaded paddock during the day. A severely affected horse may not be able to tolerate turnout on hot days.
    • Provide fans, misters, or a sprinkler. Some horses will cool off in a pond if they have access to one.
    • Make sure he always has cool water to drink
    • Keep work to a minimum during the hot times of the year and ride early in the morning

    It’s better to prevent your horse from getting overheated than to have to treat him if he does, but if you get in a bind here are some steps to follow

    • Move him somewhere shady
    • Hose him down with a continuous flow of cool water or sponge him repeatedly with water from a bucket filled with water and ice
    • Use portable fans
    • Offer him cold water to drink
    • Take his temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate if you can
    • Call my doc!

    So if your horse is all stinky and sweaty after a ride, and you have to bathe him and wash your saddle pads yet again, don’t grumble about it, be happy about that sweat!

    Until next week,

    Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is available for pre-order! You can reserve your ebook today, and it will release on Sept. 8th! If you prefer a paperback or hardcover, they’ll be releasing on (or a bit before) Sept. 15th, just a week or so away! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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    Bumps and Masses on Dogs

    Bumps and Masses on Dogs

    Whinny’s Wisdoms

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Your Pup has a Bump! Here’s What We’re Going to Do

     Hello there, curious pet owners! It’s your sassy and savvy clinic mouse, Whinny, here to enlighten you about a rather common scenario that often has our Springhill Equine clinic buzzing – the discovery of a mass on your feline or canine companion. You know, those little (or not-so-little) bumps and lumps that can pop up unexpectedly during routine check-ups? Yep, we’re diving into how our talented veterinarians handle these mysterious masses and what options you and your furball have.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Not all masses are created equal. Some can be harmless, while others might demand more attention.

    So, let’s get down to business. Picture this: You’re cuddling with your pet, giving them all the love they deserve, and you happen to notice a peculiar lump. Cue the concern! Whether you’ve stumbled upon it or your vigilant vet has spotted it during a routine check-up, these solitary masses can stir up quite a ruckus in our minds.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Approach #1: “Wait and See” – Not So Much

    First up, the “wait and see” approach. Now, I’m all about giving life’s little mysteries time to unravel, but when it comes to masses, that’s a no-go. These lumps are the body’s way of saying something isn’t quite right. So, the verdict? Skip the waiting game and opt for a professional evaluation.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Masses don’t usually vanish into thin air. They’re here to stay until we intervene.

    There is just no way to know what a mass is from the outside most of the time. So waiting risks a very bad mass getting worse over time.

    Approach #2 and #3: Peek Inside with FNA and Biopsy

    At Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic, we’re big fans of FNA – a fancy abbreviation for fine-needle aspiration. This nifty technique involves inserting a tiny needle into the mass, collecting a sample of cells, and examining them under a microscope. It’s like a sneak peek into the mass’s identity! The best part is an FNA can often be done with your dog or cat awake and distracted with treats like cookies, my favorite!

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Quick and relatively painless procedures, like fine-needle aspiration (FNA), can work wonders in diagnosing sneaky masses. You could say they’re fast, friendly, and informative – a bit like me!

    But wait, there’s more! Biopsies step in when we need a closer look. Biopsies involve removing a small but solid piece of the mass for further analysis. They’re more thorough but can be a tad more invasive. Think of them as sending a piece of the puzzle to a detective – our pathologist – for examination. They most often involve anesthesia or very heavy sedation as well as local anesthesia. They’re essentially a mini surgery.

    Approach #4: The Full Monty Workup

    Sometimes, the mysterious mass is just the tip of the iceberg. That’s where the “complete workup” comes into play. This star-studded lineup includes a complete blood count (CBC), a serum biochemistry profile, radiography (fancy term for X-rays), abdominal ultrasonography, and urinalysis. It’s like rolling out the red carpet for diagnosis, revealing insights about your pet’s overall health. A full workup is like giving your pet a VIP treatment – thorough and illuminating.

    Diagnosis Time: The Mass’s True Identity

    Once we’ve peered into the mass’s soul – I mean, cells – it’s time for the big reveal. Is it a benign neoplastic, malignant neoplastic, inflammatory, or hyperplastic mass? This information guides us toward the next steps.

    Whinny’s Wisdom: Knowing your enemy – uh, I mean mass – is half the battle won.

    If the mass is a troublemaker and we’re sure it’s malignant, surgical excision usually gets the green light. Cutting out the bad apple can work wonders. And if the mass is playing hide and seek with its metastatic buddies (spread to other areas), chemotherapy might be the hero of the story. Treatment may happen at our clinic, or we may refer your pet out to a cancer specialist—called an oncologist—for the most advanced treatment modalities.

    Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

    Fear not, if we do recommend chemotherapy or radiation for your pet’s mass it is important to know the mantra of veterinary oncology: QUALITY of life is much more important than quantity of life. Because our furry friends don’t always know why they’re going in for treatment, we focus on keeping it positive and pain free. Over 80% of dog and cat chemotherapy patients have ZERO side effects for the duration of their treatment. We believe in giving our four-legged heroes the best shot at a quality life, and sometimes that involves surgery, chemotherapy, or radiation.

    So there you have it – a glimpse into the intriguing world of solitary masses in our beloved furry companions. Remember, if you ever stumble upon a mysterious lump, don’t let it be the elephant in the room. Your vigilant veterinarians at Springhill Equine are always here to help uncover the truth and guide you and your pet through this puzzle-solving journey. Until next time, keep those cuddles coming and those masses on the run!

    ~ Whinny

    P.S. Have you heard the exciting news? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband 3 is available for pre-order! You can reserve your ebook today, and it will release on Sept. 8th! If you prefer a paperback or hardcover, they’ll be releasing on Sept. 15th, just a few weeks away! Click Here to go over to the book page on my website for links to purchase.

    Justin B. Long

    Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

    Subscribe to Whinny's Wisdoms

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    More Adventures of the Horse Doctor's Husband