Mare Breeding: A Guide for Horse Owners

Mare Breeding: A Guide for Horse Owners

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Spring is in the air, the birds and the bees are out, and foals are hitting the ground. Everyone seems to be thinking about making more of them! Don’t we have enough horses in the world? I think we need more mice. But seriously, breeding your horse is a significant decision that requires careful consideration. In the United States, we’re facing an overpopulation of horses, and adding more to the population should be a thoughtful choice. While the idea of passing down desirable traits, like behavior, movement, personality, or talent, can be appealing, it’s crucial to know that these traits aren’t always inherited by offspring. Each horse is unique, and what makes a great performer or companion doesn’t always transfer to the next generation.

Moreover, breeding a mare especially demands foresight and planning for the foal’s future. It’s essential to have a well-thought-out plan for the foal once it arrives, including a budget set aside for potential health issues in its early days to weeks of life. Consider that if a foal can’t be sold due to genetic issues or a lack of desired talents, the responsibility for its care falls on the mare owner for the rest of its life. This responsibility extends far beyond the cute foal stage into adulthood, which involves time, finances, and dedication. Making the decision to breed should involve serious consideration of the long-term commitment to the foal’s well-being, ensuring a stable and secure future for both the mare and her offspring. And if you’re looking to make a profit from breeding horses, just cut your losses now! I can’t even tell you how many financial horror stories I’ve overheard at the clinic from owners losing money on breeding.

Whinny’s Wisdom: MOST people who breed horses do not turn a profit from it. Don’t count on ANY foal to be a financial windfall!

Understanding Mare Reproductive Health

Reproductive services for mares should involve comprehensive examinations, utilizing diagnostic tools like ultrasound and hormonal assays, and scheduled follow up exams. This helps identify any potential issues that could hinder fertility, such as uterine infections, hormonal imbalances, or structural abnormalities.

Various health problems, from infections to systemic conditions, can affect a mare’s fertility. Addressing these concerns early is crucial. Treatment options may include antibiotics, hormonal therapies, or management adjustments to enhance overall reproductive success. It’s also very important to consider if it is worth pursuing breeding in a mare with any of these reproductive conditions. Basically, do you want to breed A horse, or do you want to breed THIS horse?

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Pre-Breeding

It pays to be prepared! Before any birds or bees are brought together, there are some important steps. First of all, is your mare fit and healthy enough to be bred? Let’s go over what information we need to figure that out:

Vaccination Status: All horses should be vaccinated regularly by the veterinarian you have a great relationship with, but it’s even more important for a broodmare whose immune system will be challenged by growing a brand-new creature for 11 months. Our docs require mares to be up-to-date on vaccinations for diseases like Eastern and Western Encephalitis, Tetanus, West Nile, Equine Influenza, Equine Herpes, and Rabies. Go check out some of Tony’s old blogs to learn about these vaccines if you’re curious!

Dental and Hoof Health: Regular farrier visits and dental care are vital for maintaining a mare’s health during pregnancy. Would you want to carry an extra 100 lbs in your abdomen if you already had bad feet or a toothache?

Reproductive History: Knowing if your mare has previously foaled or been bred helps us understand potential complications or issues that might arise during the breeding process. Any previous reproductive diagnoses, such as uterine infections or cysts, are critical to know about and potentially manage prior to insemination. A mare that has had a difficult pregnancy previously won’t necessarily repeat that, but she may. Similarly, a mare that’s had very easy pregnancies in her past could always have a difficult time this go around. It’s important to be emotionally and financially prepared for above-and-beyond care if your mare has a difficult pregnancy. This can involve frequent exams, medications, or even hospitalizations. If your horse has not ever been pregnant before, this can also sometimes present challenges, especially if she is older than 8-10 years of age.

The prebreeding reproductive evaluation is a pivotal step in ensuring a successful breeding outcome. Through the use of diagnostic tools like ultrasound, uterine culture, and cytology, our doctors comprehensively assess the mare’s reproductive health. Ultrasound examinations offer valuable insights into the reproductive tract, detecting structural abnormalities, cysts, or inflammatory changes that might hinder fertility. Uterine cultures identify bacterial infections within the uterus, enabling targeted antibiotic treatments to resolve underlying issues. Concurrently, uterine cytology evaluates the cellular composition of the uterine lining, pinpointing inflammation or irregularities that could affect the mare’s ability to conceive or carry a pregnancy to term. This comprehensive evaluation empowers veterinarians to proactively address potential issues, optimizing the mare’s reproductive health and significantly increasing the chances of a successful breeding experience.

Turn the Lights On

For early breeding (before March/April), implementing a Light Protocol helps regulate the mare’s estrous cycle. This involves simulating longer daylight hours to prompt hormonal changes, preparing the mare’s reproductive system for an earlier breeding season. This process typically begins around 60-90 days before the desired start of the breeding season, usually in late fall or early winter.

How to Implement a Light Protocol:

  1. 1. Light Duration and Intensity: Mares are sensitive to light changes. Mimicking longer daylight hours tricks their bodies into believing spring is approaching, stimulating hormonal changes. Provide artificial lighting in the mare’s stall, ensuring 16 hours of continuous light daily. Natural and artificial light combined should meet this duration.
  1. Light Timing: Start the Light Protocol in late fall or early winter. Calculate backward from the desired breeding date, allowing 60-90 days of light stimulation before the intended breeding season begins.
  1. Light Management: Ensure consistent lighting without interruption. Use 100-200-watt LED, incandescent or fluorescent bulbs placed approximately eight feet above the mare. The lighting should be evenly distributed throughout the barn, including the stall where the mare resides.
  1. Light Control: Use automatic timers to maintain a regular schedule. Artificial light should start early in the morning, simulating dawn, and continue until late in the evening, mimicking dusk. Avoid sudden changes in light intensity or duration.

Implementing the Light Protocol at the right time is critical. For early breeding, starting the protocol around late November to early December allows for the required 60-90 days of light exposure before the breeding season, typically beginning in February or March. Regular monitoring during the Light Protocol ensures proper response. Veterinary guidance and monitoring hormone levels may be necessary to confirm the mare’s readiness for breeding after the completion of the light exposure period.

Timing

As they say, timing is everything. Once our team has determined your favorite mare is all ready for a bun in the oven, the work has only just begun. Horses have a 21-day estrous cycle, but the period of fertility (estrus) varies from 2-8 days across each cycle, with the length of diestrus (uterine inactivity) adjusting to keep the cycle at about 21 days. Because of this variability, it is crucial your mare have ultrasound assisted reproductive exams OFTEN. When I say often, I mean sometimes multiple times per day. The margin for error in timing depends on how you are planning to have your mare bred.

In general, we have the most flexibility if the mare will be live covered and the least flexibility if she will be artificially inseminated using frozen semen. This usually means you are either boarding your mare at our clinic (yay, more friends for me!) or trailering her in every 1-3 days until she is bred. After the deed is done, we have to confirm she has done her part and released an egg. This is also done with ultrasound. Then, there’s more to schedule!

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Fourteen days after confirmed ovulation will be the first pregnancy check. That 14-day mark is super important, because we have to look for twins. Horses are super particular with their insides (see all of our colic blogs!) and their insides can absolutely not handle two babies at once. So, if we find twins, we have to “pinch” one of the embryos in order to save the other embryo and the mother. But we can only do this very early in her pregnancy.

After that fourteen-day check when she is confirmed pregnant, one of the nice technicians at the clinic will email you a Pregnant Mare Schedule which details the next 11 months of her and your life. She’ll be visiting us at least every few months for ultrasound exams and vaccines until her baby is born. And if you feel anything is going wrong in between those frequent visits, she will visit us then too!

Conclusion: Breed Responsibly

While the thrill of breeding your mare is enticing, responsible breeding involves thorough consideration and preparation. Each mare is unique, and individualized care to whole horse health is vital for successful reproduction. At Springhill Equine, our docs prioritize individualized care and thorough assessment to maximize the chances of a successful breeding outcome. Our aim is not just conception but ensuring the health and well-being of both mare and foal.

I think I gave a pretty thorough lecture today, but if you would like any further information or to schedule your mare’s reproductive evaluation, you can speak to our lovely office staff by calling 352-472-1620.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you really want to get intense with breeding knowledge, my docs have several seminars on the topic over on our YouTube Channel. They are way more in-depth than my blog, and completely free! You can find all of our Seminars by Clicking Here.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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The Udderly Fantastic Guide to Pet Cows

The Udderly Fantastic Guide to Pet Cows

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

So, you’ve decided to expand your furry family with a couple of hooved companions? Whinny the clinic mouse here, ready to spill the hay on the ins and outs of acquiring, raising, and taking care of your very own pet cows. Take it from a very experienced clinic mouse: cows are no walk in the pasture. They demand attention, love, and a keen understanding of their unique needs. They are very large, potentially dangerous animals and should generally only be owned by humans with livestock experience. If you fit that bill, read on as we dig into the details and navigate the moos and groans of cow parenting!

Choosing Your Bovine Bestie

Before you dive headfirst into the world of cattle companionship, let’s discuss the fascinating array of cattle breeds. Whether it’s the docile Holstein or the hardy Angus, each breed comes with its own set of characteristics and challenges, and picking the right one can make all the difference in your pet-owning experience. Consider your available space, climate, and your own preferences when picking the perfect cow. Oh, and don’t forget about zoning regulations – your neighbors might not appreciate a surprise cow invasion.

  1. Holstein: The Gentle Giant

Known for their distinctive black-and-white markings, Holsteins are the heavyweights of the dairy world. Renowned for their docile nature, they’re excellent choices for experienced cattle families seeking a cuddly and milk-rich companion. However, keep in mind that they are very large and will require a lot of space.

  1. Angus: The Hardy Homesteader

If you’re looking for a sturdy and low-maintenance option, Angus cattle might fit the bill. With their black coats and robust build, these cattle thrive in various climates. Some members of this breed can be very calm and friendly, but personalities can vary!

  1. Hereford: The Friendly Grazer

Recognizable by their red and white coloration, Herefords boast a friendly disposition. They are known for their adaptability and are well-suited for those new to bovine parenthood if acquired as calves. Watch out in sunny areas though, these white-faced cattle are prone to UV exposure related diseases like squamous cell carcinoma.

  1. Belted Galloway: The Stylish Sidekick

Sporting a distinctive white belt around their midsection, Belted Galloways are not only stylish but also hardy. Their thick, shaggy coat serves as natural insulation, making them well-suited for colder climates. These charismatic cows can add a touch of flair to your northern homestead.

  1. Brahman: The Southern Charmer

Uniquely designed to live comfortably in the South, these massive humped cattle are a striking addition to any pasture. Take care though, they must be handled and trained from a very young age with extreme diligence as they are the most stubborn breed around. They are also incredibly large and can be dangerous even without meaning to.

Once you’ve got your heart set on a specific breed, it’s time to find a reputable breeder. A healthy start is crucial, so make sure your chosen cow comes from a clean and well-maintained environment. Insist on proper documentation of vaccinations and health checks – you wouldn’t want any unwanted surprises.

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Whinny’s Wisdom: Cattle breeders do not bring their best, or even second-best, animals to auctions.

Buyer Beware

As you embark on your journey to welcome bovine buddies into your life, it’s crucial to exercise caution in the cattle marketplace. Miniature cattle, while adorable, can harbor potential genetic issues that may not be immediately apparent and cause life-long expensive medical concerns. When purchasing, steer clear of auctions or tractor and supply stores, as the best animals from reputable breeders are rarely found there. Animals in such venues often carry undisclosed health issues, leading to unexpected challenges down the pasture road. Additionally, buyers interested in long hair cattle, like the Scottish Highland breeds, should consider the impact of hot climates on these cold-adapted creatures. The lush coats that make them iconic pose difficulties in warmer weather, leading to deadly heat stress. To ensure a healthy and happy bovine addition to your family, prioritize acquiring animals from trusted breeders with a track record of responsible breeding practices.

A Few Other Considerations

Castration

While bulls may conjure images of strength and power, they aren’t exactly the ideal candidates for a cozy petting session. Bulls can and do become aggressive and challenging to handle as they mature. To avoid unnecessary headaches, consider castrating bulls at a young age or only purchasing already castrated male calves. This not only makes them more docile but also eliminates the risk of unwanted pregnancies.

Dehorning: A Safety Measure Worth Taking

Cattle with horns may look majestic, but those pointed accessories pose risks, both to the animal itself and its human companions. To prevent injuries and ensure a safer environment, only purchase dehorned or polled (born without horns) calves. If you acquire a calf young enough you can have your veterinarian dehorn after purchase, but be warned, after about 8 weeks of age they can no longer be dehorned in a routine way and must instead have an invasive surgery. Did you see an older baby bull-calf with horns on Facebook Marketplace? Just say no unless you have an extra $1,000 laying around to address the things that weren’t done by the seller.

Raising Happy Cattle

Now that your new companions have hoofed their way into your life, it’s time to get down to the nitty-gritty of husbandry. All cattle thrive on routine, so establish a consistent feeding and turnout schedule. Provide ample space for your animals to graze and roam. A happy cow is a healthy cow, after all. Pet cows generally do well on pasture most of the year with added hay in winter months. ‘Pasture’ means way more than just your backyard! In Florida, stocking densities vary from 2-25 acres required PER COW depending on what type and quality of grass your property has. All cattle must have access to free choice minerals to help make up for what pasture lacks. Milking cows or growing calves will often need grain supplementation, but beware over-feeding!

Ensure they have access to clean water and shelter, protecting them from extreme weather conditions. Invest in quality bedding for shelters or stalls to prevent hoof issues and keep your cow’s living space clean. Regularly inspect their environment for potential hazards and fix any fences or gates that may pose a danger. Remember, a safe and secure environment is the foundation of a healthy, happy herd. And yes, a good scratch behind the ears never hurt anyone – cows appreciate a little affection too.

The Veterinarian: Your Cow’s Best Friend

Now, let’s talk veterinary care – the unsung hero of bovine well-being. Regular check-ups with a qualified veterinarian are non-negotiable. Vaccinations, deworming, and hoof care should be part of the routine – a proactive approach keeps those moo-tastrophes at bay.

Don’t be shy about consulting your vet for advice on nutrition and preventive measures. A customized health plan ensures your cows are tip-top, whether they’re giving you gallons of milk or just adorable moments to cherish. It will always be cost-saving to involve your veterinarian upfront, rather than calling them for a weekend emergency. And if you want to keep those veterinarians you have a great relationship with coming back to your farm, be sure they have an easy time working with your cattle. This most often means providing facilities for handling. Whether it’s a small catch pen with panels, a milking stanchion or head catch, or a full hydraulic chute, there needs to be a safe area to effectively contain and control your 800+ lb animals so your veterinarian doesn’t get hurt while tending to their needs.

Common Health Issues

Despite your and your veterinarians best efforts, pet cattle can still face health challenges. Be vigilant for signs of common issues like mastitis, respiratory infections, or lameness. Early detection and prompt veterinary intervention can make all the difference.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Keep an eye on your cow’s body condition – obesity and undernourishment are both troublesome. If your cow starts acting a bit off, don’t play the guessing game; consult your vet promptly. Remember, a proactive approach to health issues ensures your cows live long and moo-tiful lives.

Remember, a good relationship with your vet, a solid husbandry routine, and a watchful eye for preventive care are your best allies. So, gear up, future cow enthusiasts, and embark on this udderly fantastic adventure! Your cows will thank you with hearty moos and a lifetime of companionship. Happy herding!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you subscribed to my blog yet? If you’ll scroll down to the big purple box and put your email address in it, I’ll email you my blog every week. That way you get it a day or two before it shows up on Facebook, and you don’t have to rely on Facebook to show it to you (and we all know how reliable they are!) So, be a good human, scroll down a bit more. There you go… purple box. Good human!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Foal Watch Time!

Foal Watch Time!

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s January, which means for some, the time may be approaching to start foal watch on your pregnant mare! Mares have an 11-month gestation and some breeds do their best to have a foal born as close as they can to the first of the year. Knowing the normal birth process allows us to catch any problems early and intervene if necessary.

Foal watch usually starts about 2 weeks before the mare’s foaling date. Foal watch starts with monitoring the mare’s behavior, eating habits, and changes to her body. The mare’s gluteal muscles will become very soft when she is close to foaling and her tail will also become more relaxed. Her udder will start to produce milk. We can monitor for changes in the milk by checking its pH. Once the pH of her milk drops below 7, the mare will likely foal in the next 24 hours. Click here to watch a short video demonstrating these things!

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Three Stages of Parturition in Mares

Stage 1

This stage is getting the foal in position for delivery. Therefore, some of the signs, such as getting up and down, may be similar to colic. She may go off her feed intermittently. Often times, the mare may be seen rolling, pawing and frequently kicking at her abdomen. Usually these signs will diminish, the mare will return to normal, and it will be very confusing to those who are waiting for the foal to come.  You may also notice that your mare has contractions. This can last for many days prior to actually having a foal on the ground. The humans tell me that this is how your mare makes sure you are exhausted before anything ever happens.

Stage 2

This stage is crazy fast and it is important to keep track of the duration of time the mare is in this stage. This stage starts when the mare’s water breaks and lasts until the foal is expelled. This should take no more than 30 minutes. This is when things can go very wrong, very quickly. The foal should be presenting front feet first, followed shortly by a nose. If it does take longer than 30 minutes, or if you see a red bag or anything other than front feet and nose, then this is a dystocia and is a medical emergency. Call your vet immediately no matter what time it is!

Stage 3

The final stage is expulsion of the placenta. This should be passed no more than 3 hours after the foal is born. If the placenta has a piece missing or has not been expelled in the appropriate time frame, this is a medical emergency for the mare. Again, call your vet no matter what time it is.

The 1-2-3 Rule

Besides the 3 stages listed above, it’s important to know the 1-2-3 Rule and keep note of the times the mare and foal are meeting important milestones. These milestones are:

  1. The foal should be standing within 1 hour after being born.
  2. The foal should be successfully nursing within 1 hour after standing (so 2 hours after being born). This is vital for a foal to receive the colostrum from their mom. This is where they receive their immune system. A foal is born without an immune system and will not have the ability to fight infection and pathogens unless it gets the colostrum from its mother.
  3. As mentioned above, the mare should pass her placenta no later than 3 hours after her foal is born.

 Foal watch, with its meticulously delineated stages of parturition, helps ensure the health and wellbeing of your mare and new foal. Horses aren’t nearly as good at this whole reproduction thing as mice are, so they often need some help. When you’re standing in the barn at 2:00 in the morning trying to decide if you should bother your veterinarian or not, remind yourself that you have invested a tremendous amount of time, money, and heartache to get to this point. Always err on the side of caution, and don’t gamble with your mare and foal! I promise that your vet would rather respond to a false alarm than sleep through a crisis.

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If all goes well with the foaling, you’ll need to have your vet come out for a new foal exam. They usually time this so that they arrive when the foal is around a day old, but also while it’s daytime. Along with a thorough physical exam, they’ll pull blood to do an IgG test, which will tell them if your foal got enough colostrum. If it didn’t, it will need plasma immediately, and they will help you with that.

This is the point that more or less closes out the end of a year of breeding insanity and begins the next chapter of madness: raising a foal! I’ll save that topic for another day. There’s a block of cheese that’s been sitting out on the desk calling my name…

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Don’t forget to go watch that video! It will show you exactly what your mare will look like when it’s approaching Go Time. And while you’re on our YouTube Channel, look around! We’ve got a great video library for you, including a number of seminars on breeding and foaling which are packed with much more information than I shared here, and it’s all free! Make sure you use all the tools to do this job!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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White Line Disease in Horses

White Line Disease in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everyone, Whinny here! Since you’re a horse person, you’ve probably heard the old saying “No hoof, no horse”, and it will always ring true. Let’s chat today about a common hoof problem – White Line Disease. With the wet weather we’ve had lately, my Springhill vets have been seeing quite a few cases, and you may have even seen it without realizing!

Also called seedy toe, white line disease can start with just a little separation at the hoof wall. Maybe you’ve gone a little too long between trims and your horse’s hooves have gotten a bit too long. You notice a small gap between the outer hoof wall and the sole, and some dirt is packed in there. That can be how WLD starts, and at this early stage it can be pretty manageable, but it can get out of control before you know it. Let’s go into what white line disease is, what causes it, and what you can do about it.

What is White Line Disease?

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

White line disease is basically an infection in your horse’s foot caused by bacteria and fungi getting into a gap in the hoof wall. The infection takes place in the tissue between the outer hoof wall and the sensitive inner tissues of the hoof. It doesn’t take any special evil organisms to cause this problem, it’s just the normal bacteria and fungi in your horse’s environment that are just waiting for the opportunity to find a nice place to set up shop. What they love is a dark, moist place, and a little space inside the hoof wall is their real estate dream. As the bacteria and fungi work their way into the hoof wall, they eat away at the tissue that should be keeping the hoof connected to the deeper structures. It’s a vicious cycle – once they access even further up inside the hoof and have a lovely dark, protected area, it gets much more difficult to clean them out. If you look at a foot with WLD, you’ll see a cavity between the outer hoof wall and the sole. You may be able to stick a hoof pick up in there and pick out some crumbly material that is the degraded hoof plus dirt, bacteria, and fungi.

You can find WLD on just one or two feet, or it can affect all four. In the early stages, your horse may not yet be sore, but as the tissue invasion becomes extensive, it can cause lameness. It can even progress to a very serious stage where the coffin bone loses connection to the hoof wall and begins to rotate (similar to, but different from, laminitis).

What Causes White Line Disease?

Like I said, bacteria and fungi are involved in WLD, but it’s not so simple as that, because the bacteria and fungi are always there in the environment, and not every hoof gets WLD. So how do they get into a foot?

It comes down to a separation that occurs in the hoof that gives the organisms a chance to invade – the bacteria and fungi are just there to take advantage of it. Why does that separation occur in the first place? Poor trimming or sometimes a conformational issue such as club foot can be the cause. A horse with chronic laminitis can also be at greater risk due to the loss of integrity of the hoof. Most commonly, a long toe or overgrown foot can distort the hoof and cause mechanical stress that leads to the hoof wall separating near the white line. Just another of the 10,000 reasons it’s important to stay on top of your horse’s hoof care and get him a quality trim at a regular interval.

Any age, sex, or breed of horse can be affected.  While it can occur in any climate, it’s more common in humid conditions (ahem, Florida anyone?) since wet footing can soften the hoof and allow the organisms easier entry into the tissues.

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How Do We Treat and Prevent White Line Disease?

First, we have to recognize the WLD. You’ll want to pay close attention to your horse’s feet when you’re picking them out. If you think there are any areas of separation, pockets of dirt, and crumbly hoof near the white line, talk to my doc and your farrier. If your horse wears shoes, it’s a little trickier to observe this area, so your farrier should take a good look when she removes the shoe to trim the foot. One of the best things you can do to prevent WLD is just to have your horse trimmed frequently (about every 5 weeks, depending on the horse) and to make sure the toes don’t become too long. A well-trimmed foot is much less likely to develop this problem. On top of that, pick your horse’s feet regularly and give them a chance to dry out. Admittedly, the drying part can be tricky during some times of the year.

If your horse does develop white line disease, my doc and your farrier should work together to develop a treatment plan. Unfortunately, just picking the cavity out and applying medications is unlikely to stop the progression. A very minor WLD may be able to be trimmed out by your farrier during a routine visit. Larger areas of separation will require additional treatment. My doc may need to take a radiograph to see how extensive the damage is within the foot. She’ll need to correct any abnormal forces on the foot (such as an overgrown toe) that are causing the separation. All the other treatment will not really be effective if the primary cause isn’t fixed.

Next, my doc has to stop those bacteria and fungus in their tracks. The most important part is to remember what those organisms love – a nice dark, moist space that can’t easily be cleaned out. So my doc takes the roof from over their head by performing a hoof wall resection! Those critters don’t stand a chance once their hiding place is exposed to light and air. My doc uses a hoof nipper or Dremel to remove the outer layer of hoof wall from over the cavity. The organisms are prevented from hiding up there, and the infected area is exposed for medications to be applied. Medical treatment is almost never useful unless the hoof wall over the infection is removed, so don’t waste your money on the various lotions and potions that make lofty claims.

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It can look a bit dramatic to see a bunch of hoof wall removed, but don’t worry, it’s actually only the outer part of the hoof that is already disconnected. So there’s no bleeding, and it’s not painful to the horse. It’s much better than leaving the bacteria and fungus to eat away at the hoof. If a lot of hoof wall must be removed, a shoe can be helpful to stabilize the foot until new hoof grows down.

Once the outer hoof wall is removed, you’ll need to keep the hoof clean. My doc likes to soak the hoof in CleanTrax once a week to disinfect the hoof. The new, healthy hoof wall will grow downwards from the coronary band and as long as you have corrected the primary problems, your horse should grow in a normal hoof!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you seen the latest videos over on my YouTube Channel? I just published one explaining how to treat thrush with copper sulfate crystals and a wax ring from the hardware store. Well, the humans did it, but I was involved! There’s tons of great how-to horse healthcare videos on my channel, as well as seminars, the Horse Girl series, and more. Give it a gander. It’s the best free veterinary resource around, except for our Podcast! Not to brag, but Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth is the biggest equine podcast in the world. Now that I mention that, I think I need to step my game up with my blog! Help a girl out and subscribe, would you?

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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How To Keep Horses Warm

How To Keep Horses Warm

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s another rainy, winter day here. It’s not cold yet, because, well Florida, but that’s coming in the next few hours. It led this enquiring mouse mind to wonder how best to keep warm, and that got me wondering how best to keep a horse warm? This journey of horse knowledge is never ending! As a tiny field mouse who lives near a barn, I know I have some great choices. I like to find some roughage like old, dry grass, or leaves to make a burrow in. I grab some delicious snacks I’ve stored away, and snuggle down for a warm bite, followed by a cozy nap. Let’s find out if the same works for horses!

Hot Food

You humans like to warm up with warm things, like hot chocolate, tea, and coffee. It makes it tempting to offer things like warm mashes to horses. While they might like the idea of some hot oatmeal, with carrots, and apples, and all the trimmings, this is going to do far more for you humans than it will for a horse. First let’s consider the size of the critter. Tiny little field mouse me could eat some warm food, and actually affect my core temperature. Same for one of you humans. However, it has proven time and again that warm, or cold, water can’t be consumed in a high enough quantity to affect the body temperature of a 1200 pound horse. The water has to be so hot, or so cold, and in such rapidly consumed quantities that the laws of Nature don’t let this work out.  Let’s also remember that horses prefer a slow change to their diet. Suddenly throwing a sugar and calorie laden meal at them is a recipe for a colic disaster. I recommend against it. 

Long Hair

As someone with a luxuriant coat, I can attest to the insulation power of fur! You humans don’t understand this one at all, and trust me, it shows. If your horse has been living in their current environment for at least 12 months, the chances are they have an appropriate fur coat to handle the winter conditions for that area. I know, I know. This is hard to believe! It’s also hard to believe that Florida really doesn’t get that cold, but it’s true. No matter where they live, most horses will do just fine with the fur they have, provided some key needs are met. Moisture and wind decrease the ability of hair to hold on to heat. Ensuring your horse has somewhere to get dry and to get out of the wind will allow their fur to be all it can be. Winter coats can be compromised by things like poor nutrition, older age, and PPID (Cushings). These horses may need to have some added help to stay warm. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Blankets

Oh boy. I’m going to step my paw into this controversy. As we discussed above, most horses don’t need blankets. My limited experience has shown that most humans think most horses do in fact need blankets. Let’s discuss my research on who actually needs a blanket. Horses who have been body clipped definitely need blankets, but probably not as heavily as most humans think. One study taught horses to tell their handlers if they wanted their blanket on or off. It was found that when temperatures were below about 15F, all the horses wanted their blankets on. These horses were located in Northern Europe so they knew a thing or two about being cold. There hasn’t been a lot of study on horses in warmer environments, like the Southeastern United States. However, it is known that horses greatly prefer colder temperatures than the average Southeastern United States human. That 15F temperature is what’s known as their lowest critical temperature. This is the temperature at which it starts to cost the average horse more energy to stay warm than they can consume. Makes sense that this is when they want a blanket. This means that most horses, in most of the areas where horse people have them in most of the world, probably don’t need a blanket if they have their nutrition needs met, and have a place to get out of the wind and rain. But if your horse is body clipped, has a body condition score less than 5, or has a compromised hair coat thanks to PPID, consider a blanket. Remember though, that blanket can’t go on and stay on. You will need to have a plan for taking it off as temperatures go up through the day.

Roughage is Always the Best

And finally we get to the best way to keep a horse warm: Hay. Horses are hind gut fermenters (which means they produce heat while digesting hay). So are adorable little field mice. Turns out both of us stay warm by eating roughage, and using bacteria in our gut to break it down. Making sure your horse has plenty of good quality roughage to eat on cold, windy (or rainy) days will do the most to make sure they stay warm and happy. If in doubt, throw an extra flake or two. 

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Horse care always comes back to simple is best. Keeping them warm is the same. Make sure they have a dry place to get out of the wind, and offer lots of hay. And maybe put a little on the side for the mouse in your life. I’m just saying.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Have you seen the latest videos over on my YouTube Channel? I just published one explaining how to treat thrush with copper sulfate crystals and a wax ring from the hardware store. Well, the humans did it, but I was involved! There’s tons of great how-to horse healthcare videos on my channel, as well as seminars, the Horse Girl series, and more. Give it a gander. It’s the best free veterinary resource around, except for our Podcast! Not to brag, but Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth is the biggest equine podcast in the world. Now that I mention that, I think I need to step my game up with my blog! Help a girl out and subscribe, would you?

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Equine Core Vaccines and What They’re For

Equine Core Vaccines and What They’re For

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, it’s your favorite clinic mouse Whinny here! Everyone knows their horses need to be vaccinated, but not everyone knows what we’re vaccinating for, and why it’s so important to stay on schedule. The health and longevity of our equine friends is a priority for every responsible horse, pony and donkey owner, so today we’re going over the core vaccines.

Core vaccines, designed to protect against specific and potentially life-threatening diseases, play a crucial role in achieving this goal. There are five key core vaccines for horses: Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE), Western Equine Encephalitis (WEE), Tetanus, West Nile Virus (WNV), and Rabies.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

  • Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE) and Western Equine Encephalitis (WEE): EEE and WEE are viral diseases transmitted by mosquitoes that affect the central nervous system of horses. Symptoms of both diseases can start with a fever and lead to severe neurological symptoms, emphasizing the importance of vaccination. Neurologic symptoms can range from severe onset of stumbling, depression and seizures. Unfortunately in the case of EEE cases are often fatal. Vaccination against EEE and WEE is vital, especially in regions where mosquitoes are prevalent and should be boostered every 6 months after they have had their primary vaccination series as a foal.
  • Tetanus: Tetanus is caused by the bacterium commonly found in the soil, Clostridium tetani, and is contracted through wounds or injuries. Tetanus can result in muscle stiffness, difficulty swallowing, and even death. Tetanus vaccination is a cornerstone in equine healthcare, preventing this potentially fatal disease. Boosters are typically administered every 6 months.
  • West Nile Virus (WNV): WNV is a mosquito-borne viral infection affecting the central nervous system. Infected horses often have a fever and may exhibit neurological signs, such as incoordination, circling, muzzle twitching and others. Vaccination against WNV is recommended, particularly in areas where the virus is prevalent. Biannual boosters help maintain protection.
  • Rabies: Rabies is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system and is zoonotic. A disease being zoonotic means that it poses a risk to humans. Rabies symptoms can be varied, especially in equines and the disease is almost universally fatal. Unlike in dogs where rabies presents with excess salivation and aggression, in horses symptoms can be as non-descript as colic, lameness or depression. Rabies vaccination is essential for both equine and human health. Horses should receive regular yearly boosters as part of a comprehensive vaccination plan.

Whinny Wisdom: The EEE vaccine is nearly 100% effective at preventing the disease, but only for six months. If you have mosquitos for more than six months a year, your horse needs two boosters every year! Horses can get EEE seven months after their last vaccine, so there’s no grace period.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Core vaccines are critical in protecting against preventable diseases in horses. By adhering to a well-rounded vaccination protocol on a regular schedule, horse owners contribute to the overall health and longevity of their equine companions. And take it from this mouse: it’s the cheapest and most effective thing you can do to protect your horse.

If you aren’t already signed up, you might want to consider the 2024 Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic Wellness Plan, which includes these core vaccines as well as Rhino and flu, depending on what your horse’s risk is, a dental float, Coggins, a Wellness exam, fecal egg count, and all emergency fees waived for the year! It’s a great program. In addition to bundling and saving, you also don’t have to remember when your horses are due for vaccines: we’ll track that for you and call to schedule when it’s time! Wellness Plans are the cheapest part of horse ownership, and arguably the most important. Set your horses up for a successful 2024! Click here to go to the Wellness Page of my website to sign up, or call our office today! 352-472-1620.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. I’m trying to get to 1,000 subscribers by the end of the year. If you haven’t done so already, help a little mouse out and subscribe to her blog! It’s super easy, you just scroll down to the big purple box and put your email address in. I promise I won’t email you anything besides my blog, and that will make sure you don’t miss out on any of my Wisdoms!

P.P.S. (Yes, it’s a two-fer! Get it?!) Are you looking for a stocking stuffer for your favorite horse person? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband series (3 books so far) is a great gift idea! And if you have a young person in your life who’s thinking about becoming an equine vet, you can support them with our wonderful handbook called How to Become an Equine Veterinarian: A Guide for Teens. It’s age appropriate for 12-25, and covers everything they need to do through middle school, high school, and college to become a great candidate for vet school. And as my humans say all the time around here, the world needs more equine vets! You can find book details and links to purchase over on the Books Page of my website, or just click on the image below. After you subscribe, of course!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Doggy Dental Care

Doggy Dental Care

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Say “Cheese!’ dear readers! It’s your favorite Clinic mouse, Whinny, here to dive deep into the world of canine dental health–don’t worry, we’ll talk about all the teeth, not just the canines! You see, dogs rely on their teeth for many things, from chomping on their favorite chew toys to flashing those pearly whites in a friendly grin. Just as in humans, horses, mice, and all the other critters of the world, doggie dental disease can lead to damage to other organs across the body. This is really an area we want to focus on with prevention and early management!

The Importance of Healthy Dog Teeth

Just like us mice need our teeth for nibbling on tasty morsels, dogs depend on their teeth for a multitude of tasks. Healthy teeth are crucial for: 

  1. Chewing: Properly chewed food aids digestion and overall health.
  1. Play: Dogs love gnawing on toys, and strong teeth are essential for their enjoyment. This is a double edged…bone, though. Anything you give your dog to chew on should be soft enough to have an indent on it from your thumb nail. If not, you are risking a broken tooth!
  1. Communication: Dogs express themselves through their mouths, and a healthy smile goes a long way in making friends. Plus, cuddles are way better with a dog with nice smelling breath. Dental problems, even minor ones, are major contributors to very bad breath.
  1. Well-being: Dental issues can lead to pain and discomfort, affecting a dog’s overall quality of life. Dental disease can also cause a whole lot of issues elsewhere in the body. Things like plaque and tartar are hotbeds of bacteria. Those bacteria travel from the gums into the bloodstream, and then all over the body.

Whinny’s Wisdom: Any amount of teeth brushing you can do for your dog at home helps! Make sure to get a dog-specific toothbrush and toothpaste. Start slow and work your way up to brushing daily.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic 

Anesthetic Dental Procedures with Full Mouth Radiographs

Now, let’s talk about the real star of the show – anesthetic dental procedures with full mouth radiographs. At our clinic, we understand that these procedures may seem a bit pricey, but they are a game-changer when it comes to your pet’s oral health. Let me break it down for you:

  1. Comprehensive Assessment: Full mouth radiographs, or X-rays, provide an in-depth view of your dog’s teeth and gums. This allows us to identify hidden problems that may not be apparent during a routine examination. Dogs love to have troubles with their tooth roots that don’t show up on a simple oral exam. Think of it as finding that secret cheese stash behind the wall!
  1. Precise Treatment: With a clear understanding of the dental issues, our veterinarians can tailor treatments to address specific problems. These treatments will start with a cleaning and can include many of the same treatments you humans get. There may be extractions, fillings, adjustments, or repairs done. There may also be topical therapies, or even special treats recommended to help manage the bacteria that cause dental disease.
  1. Pain Management: Dental problems can be painful, and our furry friends often suffer in silence. Remember, just because your pet is eating doesn’t mean their teeth don’t hurt! Anesthetic dental procedures allow us to address these issues, relieving pain and discomfort, and enhancing your dog’s overall well-being.
  1. Long-term Savings: By addressing dental problems early, you can avoid more costly and invasive procedures down the road. Preventing major issues is like saving your favorite cheese for a special occasion.
  2. Improved Quality of Life: Healthy teeth and gums mean a happier, healthier pup. They can eat, play, and communicate more comfortably, leading to a better life for both you and your four-legged companion.

Value Beyond the Price Tag

Whinny’s Wisdom: Don’t get swindled by anyone trying to sell you “anesthesia-free” dentals! These procedures are not done by licensed veterinarians and are at best useless and at worst painful and potentially damaging to your pet.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Yes, anesthetic dental procedures with full mouth radiographs may come with a price, but the value they provide is immeasurable. They go beyond a one-time expense, offering long-term benefits for your dog’s health and happiness. Plus, let’s not forget that our clinic is committed to providing top-notch care, and our services are worth every penny.

In a nutshell, it’s not just about the cost; it’s about investing in your dog’s well-being and providing them with the best possible dental care. After all, we want your pet to enjoy a lifetime of smiles, tail wags, and carefree chew sessions. So, be sure to unleash the potential of your dog’s healthy teeth, and choose the path that ensures a lifetime of smiles and cheese-filled grins.

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Are you subscribed to my blog? Don’t rely on Facebook to show you a link each week! Scroll down to the big purple box and put your info in there, and my blog will get emailed to you every week, and a day or two before Facebook gets it! I promise I won’t send you anything besides my blog, no junk mail. Just scroll down a bit further… good human, you can do it!

P.P.S. (Yes, it’s a two-fer! Get it?!) Are you looking for a stocking stuffer for your favorite horse person? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband series (3 books so far) is a great gift idea! And if you have a young person in your life who’s thinking about becoming an equine vet, you can support them with our wonderful handbook called How to Become an Equine Veterinarian: A Guide for Teens. It’s age appropriate for 12-25, and covers everything they need to do through middle school, high school, and college to become a great candidate for vet school. And as my humans say all the time around here, the world needs more equine vets! You can find book details and links to purchase over on the Books Page of my website, or just click on the image below. After you subscribe, of course!

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Preventing Winter Colic in Horses

Preventing Winter Colic in Horses

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s autumn in Florida and after a brutally hot summer, I’m loving the cool weather! While Florida’s autumn has more to do with the changing of license plates colors than it does with leaves, there are still some seasonal effects you’ll notice around your farm. Shorter fall days are already upon us, and with them will come fluffy horses, slower growing grass, and hay season. You know how sensitive horses are, and so you’ll want to help your horse through the seasonal transition to reduce the chance of colic.

Go Slow

Changes involving a horse’s GI tract must be done very sloooooowwwwly. Their bellies are delicate systems and making feed changes quickly is certain to throw them off balance. You’ll want to start slowly introducing hay long before the last of the grass is eaten. Even if you have already been feeding hay, increasing the amount to compensate for less grass must also be done very gradually.

If your horse has only been eating pasture, begin by adding 5-7 pounds of hay per feeding. Coastal hay especially should be started slowly. Throwing a bunch of hay at a GI tract that’s been used to green grass is a recipe for an unscheduled visit from my Springhill vets. Add an additional 2-3 pounds of hay every 4-5 days until you’re at the full amount. Absolutely DO NOT put a roll of coastal hay out and let your horse gorge on it when he hasn’t been acclimatized to it. There is no better recipe for a type of colic called an ileal impaction.

You’ll also want to plan ahead to make sure you find a good source of QUALITY hay. My vets see a lot of colics caused by feeding poor quality hay. Let me tell you, one emergency visit to treat a colic is a lot more expensive than feeding a better-quality hay to start with.

Pro Tip: always put your hay in a slow-feed net! You can put it in two nets to slow down your very committed eaters. And putting it up off the ground will help keep it dry and minimize waste.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Add Some Legumes

Since your horse will be consuming more dry feed, like hay, as autumn progresses, there is more risk of an impaction colic. Coastal hay is an especially common cause, and if your horse eats this type of hay, you should plan on supplementing him with another type of hay to reduce the risk. This helps to “dilute out” the potential bad effects of the coastal. Legume hays, like alfalfa and peanut, are salty, which helps remind your horse to drink. They also have a laxative effect on the GI tract. Both hays bring water into the gut, which helps prevent impactions.

Whinny Wisdom: Small amounts of legumes like alfalfa do wonders and can dramatically reduce the colic risk. Take care that your horse doesn’t become overweight on legume hays though – they are calorie dense! A half a flake a day will keep the colic away.

Get Water into your Horse

If your horse is well hydrated, he is at less risk for an impaction colic. An average sized horse should drink approximately 10 gallons of water a day. Regularly clean out your horse’s buckets and troughs and make sure to change the water in the buckets before refilling. (I’ve seen horses poop in their buckets, haven’t you?) Keep an eye on his manure. Does it look moist and slightly shiny, or is it dry and crumbly-looking, or packed into hard fecal balls? That dry, crumbly manure can easily form an impaction.

Get your horse used to eating soaked feed. Adding water to your horse’s grain to make it into a soup can get extra water into their system. You can even wet down his hay to increase its water content. Water consumption is especially important when the weather changes or you get a new shipment of hay. Some horses will need some time to get used to the soupy consistency of soaked feed, so introduce it ahead of time. Some horses will drink flavored water. A great way to encourage drinking is to put a few handfuls of your horse’s favorite grain into a bucket of water to make a “sweet tea”. Other horses are partial to water flavored with apple juice or Gatorade. Of course, you should continue to offer plain water as well.

We often talk about electrolytes in the summer to help replenish what is lost in sweat, but in autumn and winter, adding loose salt or electrolytes to your horse’s diet can also help to stimulate thirst and encourage water consumption.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Other Stuff to Avoid Colic

Provide your horse as much turnout as possible. Horses evolved to be moving around constantly. Horses that are stalled with limited turnout have an increased risk of colic. Moving around the pasture promotes gastrointestinal motility, which promotes the normal transit of food through the gut.

Make sure your horse’s dental exam is up to date. Feed that isn’t adequately chewed is harder to digest, resulting in yet another risk factor for impaction colic. The dental float should be performed once a year, so call Springhill if your horse is due!

These tips apply at any time of the year to help reduce the chance that your horse will colic, but during times of weather change it’s especially important to plan ahead. Go source your good quality hay, make a feeding plan, and feel prepared for hay season. It’s always best to be a few steps ahead when it comes to your horses!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. Are you looking for a stocking stuffer for your favorite horse person? The Adventures of the Horse Doctor’s Husband series (3 books so far) is a great gift idea! And if you have a young person in your life who’s thinking about becoming an equine vet, you can support them with our wonderful handbook called How to Become an Equine Veterinarian: A Guide for Teens. It’s age appropriate for 12-25, and covers everything they need to do through middle school, high school, and college to become a great candidate for vet school. And as my humans say all the time around here, the world needs more equine vets! You can find book details and links to purchase over on the Books Page of my website.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Mare Reproduction Process

Mare Reproduction Process

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Hey everybody, Whinny here! It’s almost December, so it’s time to start thinking about breeding mares. The best plan is to avoid breeding altogether and buy a horse that’s grown up, trained, and ready to go. But for those of you who like to do things the hard, painful, expensive way (with no guaranteed outcome!), let’s get into the weeds.

The cycle of reproduction in mares is a complex process, but having an understanding of this process allows us to manipulate a mare’s reproductive cycle to increase our chances for successful breeding. In this post, we will explore the key stages of mare reproduction.

Stage 1: Estrous Cycle

The estrous cycle, also known as the “heat” cycle, is a crucial stage in mare reproduction. Unlike mice and humans, horses are seasonal breeders, and their estrous cycle is dependent on the length of daylight. Typically, the cycle occurs during the spring and summer months when the days are longer.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The estrous cycle lasts approximately 21 days, during which mares experience various behavioral and physical changes. These changes are regulated by hormonal fluctuations. As a mare enters her heat cycle, she may become more receptive to a stallion’s advances, displaying signs such as frequent urination, vocalizations, and a more relaxed stance of the tail.

Paws! Stage 1.5: Anestrous and Transitional Mares

In contrast to the estrous cycle, mares also go through periods of reproductive inactivity called anestrous. Anestrous is the phase when mares experience a temporary cessation of their estrous cycles and show no signs of heat. This usually occurs during the colder months of the year, particularly in late fall and winter when daylight hours decrease. The reduced exposure to daylight triggers hormonal changes that suppress the estrous cycle, allowing mares to conserve energy and prepare for the challenges of winter.

Additionally, mares undergo a transitional phase before entering full anestrous or during the transition from anestrous to the onset of the breeding season. This period is known as the transitional phase, or transitional estrous. During this time, mares may exhibit irregular heat cycles and display mixed behavioral and physical characteristics of both estrous and anestrous. This can make it difficult to determine the mare’s actual reproductive status and is one of the greatest challenges when breeding mares.

Stage 2: Ovulation

During the estrous cycle, the mare releases an egg from her ovaries through a process called ovulation. Ovulation usually occurs around the end of the estrous phase, approximately 24 to 48 hours before the cycle ends. If a successful mating occurs during this window, there is a higher chance of conception.

Stage 3: Fertilization

Fertilization is the process of the mare’s egg being successfully fertilized by the stallion’s sperm. The sperm can survive within the mare’s reproductive tract for several days, increasing the likelihood of fertilization if mating happens close to ovulation.

Stage 4: Pregnancy

Pregnancy is confirmed with an ultrasound at 14 days after ovulation. Horse gestation lasts approximately 11 months, although it can vary slightly depending on individual factors. During this time, the developing embryo implants itself in the mare’s uterus, where it receives nourishment and protection throughout the gestation period.

Stage 5: Parturition (Foaling)

Parturition, or foaling, in a mare unfolds in distinct stages, each essential for a successful and healthy delivery. The first stage is marked by behavioral changes, such as restlessness, pawing, and repeated lying down and getting up. This is accompanied by the relaxation of the muscles in the mare’s hindquarters.

The second stage involves the actual birthing process, where the foal is expelled from the uterus. The mare may lie down and get up repeatedly, and the amniotic sac containing the foal usually ruptures. The foal’s front feet and nose appear first, followed by its shoulders and body. The mare actively participates in this process by contracting her abdominal muscles.

The third stage involves the expulsion of the placenta, which is critical for the mare’s health. This process usually occurs within a few hours after foaling. Monitoring and assistance during these stages are crucial to ensure the well-being of both the mare and the newborn foal.

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

The Rest of the Story

These five stages are what happens when everything goes right. As you may know, if you’ve been a horse person for more than a few weeks, it’s unlikely that everything is going to go right with breeding. There are a variety of problems that can happen at every stage of pregnancy, and many of them stop the process. And it’s not uncommon for a mare to be bred repeatedly and still not get pregnant (just like people. Mice don’t have that problem).

There are a lot of factors that make a mare a good or bad candidate for breeding. One of the biggest ones is age. I know you humans can get confused about how old your horse is, and how that translates to human years. Let me give you a rule of thumb chart to go by:

Horse  Human (equivalent age)

  3            15
  6            25
  10          35
  15          45
  20          55
  25          65
  30          75
  35          85

Horses are just like people: they are really fertile when they’re young (think 4-7), and once they get past a certain age (think 10), everything becomes high risk and high difficulty (and highly not recommended).

Our team of expert veterinarians can do a lot of things to help you set your mare up for a successful breeding. There are no guarantees in reproduction, but if you do all the things, your odds of success are greatly improved. It’s no different than anything else in life, really. The first step is talking to my docs and making a plan in December so that all the pieces can be put in the right place at the right time. You can do that with a simple call or text to the Clinic at 352-472-1620. And make sure you bring me a little bit of cheese when you come in for your pre-breeding exam!

Until next week,

~Whinny

P.S. If you’re serious about breeding your mare, you’ll want to listen to all the comprehensive breeding episodes of Straight from the Horse Doctor’s Mouth, which is the podcast my docs produce. It’s loaded with great information that you won’t want to miss out on. You can subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or anywhere you get your podcasts, or just check them out over on the Podcast Page of my website.

Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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Understanding and Managing Dog Ear Infections

Understanding and Managing Dog Ear Infections

Whinny’s Wisdoms

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

Greetings, dear readers! Whinny here, your trusty guide through the curious world of dog ear infections. Today, we’re going to delve into the fascinating realm of these “ear-resistible” troubles that our furry friends, like Fido and Fluffy, sometimes encounter. So, grab your metaphorical magnifying glasses, and let’s explore the intricacies of ear infections in our four-legged pals.

The Anatomy of a Dog’s Ear

Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic

First off, let me introduce you to the ear-tastic design of our canine companions’ auditory apparatus. Unlike your straightforward (aka boring) human ears, a dog’s ear canal takes on a peculiar “J” shape, with both vertical and horizontal segments. It’s like a doggy labyrinth in there! This unique architecture presents a challenge for debris, as it must defy gravity to exit. Instead of a straightforward exit strategy, it’s an uphill battle.

Accumulation and Infection

Now, here’s where the plot thickens. Accumulation in the ear canal is like an all-you-can-eat buffet for bacteria and fungi. Earwax, skin oil, dirt, and other debris, when left to their own devices, create a petri dish for microorganisms to thrive. These tiny troublemakers typically coexist with a dog’s ear but under control. However, when excess moisture and debris are on the menu, they go from being polite dinner guests to party crashers, leading to a full-blown ear infection. Most often ear infections are multi-species, with both fungus and bacteria causing issues.

So, what contributes to this ear-wax-gone-wild scenario, you ask? Well, here are the culprits:

  1. Congenital or Breed Predisposition: Some dogs are more predisposed to ear infections due to their breed’s ear shape or good old genetics. It’s like having a mouse-sized doorway in a mouse hole; it just doesn’t work.
  1. Water Woes: Leaving water in the ear after a bath or a swim creates the ideal environment for microbial growth. It’s a bit like us mice diving headfirst into a river – not our favorite activity.
  1. Underlying Health Conditions: Certain diseases can lead to abnormal earwax buildup, as if we mice had a never-ending stash of cheese. It’s not a good thing.
  1. Skin Allergies: Dogs with skin allergies, akin to us mice with a sudden cheese allergy, are especially prone to ear infections. The earwax moisture is a welcome mat for bacteria and yeast.

Managing and Treating Ear Infections

Fear not, dear pet owners! Ear infections are typically manageable and can be cleared up with the right treatment. However, like a wedge of cheese, you mustn’t cut it too soon; follow your veterinarian’s guidance for treatment once a diagnosis is made. Stopping treatment prematurely can leave the infection lingering like a cheesy aftertaste. Most often, we will take a sample swab of both ears and examine them under the microscope after a special staining procedure to identify the type of infection. We can then use this same test to check our work after a course of treatment.

If the infection keeps showing up like a mouse at a cheese convention, further testing may be required. Allergies are often the sneakiest suspects behind recurring ear problems. They can be environmental or food-related and often sneak in like a mouse in the night. Hormone imbalances can also be accomplices in this ear mystery.

Preventing Ear Infections

Prevention is the key to a harmonious life with your furry friend. Here are some tips to keep ear infections at bay: 

  1. Regular Cleaning: Gently clean your pet’s ears with a veterinarian-approved ear cleaner to whisk away excess wax and debris. No need to dig for buried treasure; a gentle touch will do.

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Whinny Wisdom: To achieve clean ears without fear, here’s the best plan: soak two cotton balls with the ear cleaner, then put the bottle away. Gently push one cotton ball into each ear canal–don’t worry, they won’t get stuck—and cover the canal with your dog’s ear flaps. Gently massage at the base until you hear a nice squishy sound. If tolerated, massage for about 30 seconds, then stand back! Your dog will shake out both cotton balls on their own, bringing lots of debris with it. Then, you can use clean cotton balls or gauze to wipe away the shaken loose debris.

  1. Drying Ears: After baths or swims, ensure your pet’s ears are bone dry. No puddles or soggy surprises allowed!
  1. Allergy Management: If your pet has allergies, work closely with your veterinarian to navigate them like a mouse through a maze. Allergies often lead to skin problems, including ear infections. I’ve got another blog covering all things allergy: Allergy Blog
  1. Regular Check-Ups: Schedule regular check-ups with your veterinarian to catch potential ear capers early and nip them in the bud.

Conclusion

In conclusion, ear infections are like that rogue mouse in the pantry—unwanted, but manageable. Understanding the unique ear anatomy and potential causes of ear infections in dogs is the first step in keeping Fido’s, Fluffy’s, and everyone else’s ears in top-notch shape. By taking steps to manage allergies, maintain clean ears, and seek prompt veterinary care when needed, you’ll provide your pets with the best possible ear health and overall well-being.

So, there you have it, folks, a mouse’s perspective on dog ear infections. For the record, cat ear infections work about the same way and most of this will apply to our feline friends as wellKeep your ears perked and tails wagging, and remember that knowledge is your best weapon against these ear-enemies.

Until next time, cheese enthusiasts!

~Whinny

P.S. If you’re looking for some stocking stuffer ideas for a horse-crazy teen in your life, we have the perfect book! The world needs more equine vets, and we need your help to get them prepared for the difficult task of getting into vet school. This book is for young people age 12 to adult. Click Here to learn more!

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Whinny’s Wisdoms is the official blog of Whinny the Clinic Mouse at Springhill Equine Veterinary Clinic in Newberry, Florida. If you liked this blog, please subscribe below, and share it with your friends on social media! For more information, please call us at (352) 472-1620, visit our website at SpringhillEquine.com, or follow us on Facebook!

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